Can a hot belay device melt through a sling?

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Nic Le Maitre
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Can a hot belay device melt through a sling?

Postby Nic Le Maitre » Thu Oct 11, 2012 9:03 am

Happy climbing
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Re: Can a hot belay device melt through a sling?

Postby Oakley » Thu Oct 11, 2012 9:45 am

These people have THE best job in the world ever. !!

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Forket
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Re: Can a hot belay device melt through a sling?

Postby Forket » Thu Oct 11, 2012 12:23 pm

quick Q, so it doesnt go through a sling, is it possible for it to burn through a rope? I've searched the net but the studies done dont seem so reliable. any enlightenment?

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Re: Can a hot belay device melt through a sling?

Postby Warren G » Thu Oct 11, 2012 1:28 pm

I doubt it Ebert due to the mass of the rope, and the higher melting point of Nylon vs Dynex etc. I dont know if you have ever played with a hot knife, but even they take some warming up to get through a 10mm rope. agreed you don't have to get through the whole thing, but if they can't get a dynex sling a rope should be impervious. I think the most likely thing you will do is reduce the life of the rope. read those numbers in the article again: average high temp is 135C, and the rope melts at over 250C
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Re: Can a hot belay device melt through a sling?

Postby Neil » Thu Oct 11, 2012 1:39 pm

Hi

I think a much more real concern is how easily you can burn through tat (4 to 6 mm cord used to secure abseil anchors) with an abseil rope. I have heard of this burning through with just the pulling down of the rope.

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Re: Can a hot belay device melt through a sling?

Postby Nic Le Maitre » Thu Oct 11, 2012 2:36 pm

Hi Neal

Some decidedly unscientific experimentation during kloofing trips where the same piece of tat is used many times to rap off without being moved or changed there seems to be little damage as long as there is little to no weight on the rope when pulling it. Also some other experiments trying to cut weighted rope with slings or other ropes during rescue demonstrations showed that it takes a great degree of force to cut a rope with another. Therefore it is a fairly reasonable assumption that ropes won't easily cut other ropes.
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Justin
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Re: Can a hot belay device melt through a sling?

Postby Justin » Thu Oct 11, 2012 2:37 pm

I recall reading somewhere about a guy (climber) doing a long abseil in the Drakensberg with a Grigri. At some point he looked down to see smoke coming from the device. He then carried on going down at a slower rate (best choice in that situation I think!).

I think they were new routing and used a helicopter to ferry the goods up the mountain (hence the long abseil)?
Anyone know who it was?
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Re: Can a hot belay device melt through a sling?

Postby pierre.joubert » Thu Oct 11, 2012 2:44 pm

Wasn't that the dudes who put the via ferrata up? They apparently got the cable up there with a helicopter. I think the story was in the back page of SA mountain mag

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Re: Can a hot belay device melt through a sling?

Postby Justin » Thu Oct 11, 2012 3:27 pm

pierre.joubert wrote:Wasn't that the dudes who put the via ferrata up?

Nope, it wasn't them. Someone else doing new routing way before then.
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emile
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Re: Can a hot belay device melt through a sling?

Postby emile » Thu Oct 11, 2012 3:35 pm

pierre.joubert wrote:Wasn't that the dudes who put the via ferrata up? They apparently got the cable up there with a helicopter. I think the story was in the back page of SA mountain mag


Yes, I also read it there. Some quick thinking and a swift change over saved the day if I recall.

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Re: Can a hot belay device melt through a sling?

Postby GoProCrazy » Fri Oct 12, 2012 7:42 am

hi guy's

i have done some research on the rope, 90% of the climbing ropes now has plasma strands in them and they can take major heat to a point that you can barely burn the plasma with a match, combining my experience from working in the 4x4 industry we use plasma plasma in some of the winch recovery and it takes a lot of tension and heat.
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