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 Post subject: risky anchors?
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 8:41 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:26 pm
Posts: 66
Location: Middelburg
Real Name: Frank de Souza
Just a quick question.

Say I'm onsighting. I reach the top anchors and they're as sketchy as hell, to the point that you're not willing to lower off of them. What do I do?

Thanks guys


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 Post subject: Re: risky anchors?
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 8:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 11:44 am
Posts: 585
Downclimb or top-out.


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 Post subject: Re: risky anchors?
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 8:52 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:26 pm
Posts: 66
Location: Middelburg
Real Name: Frank de Souza
....And my draws? Let's say there are no natural anchors. Not even a reasonable sized bossie or boulder.


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 Post subject: Re: risky anchors?
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 11:18 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2012 11:29 am
Posts: 103
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Ben Olivier
What Hann said, if you can't downclimb or top-out, do a calculated lead fall maybe? Put bail-a-bina in good bolt, clean, ab down cleaning ur draws, log onto climb.co.za, post proof of payment of donation to ARF, then proceed to bitch about it for two weeks on end :thumright standard procedure.

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 Post subject: Re: risky anchors?
PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 6:41 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:38 am
Posts: 655
Location: Port Elizabeth
Real Name: Derek Marshall
thread the anchors & leave a bail biner on the last bolt


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 Post subject: Re: risky anchors?
PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 11:27 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 18, 2009 12:27 pm
Posts: 133
Location: Mars
Real Name: Matthew Bekker
Try get used to carrying a large screw gate with esp in and around cape town some anchers at silvermine are more dodge than thailand! Then wack a screw gate on the last bolt and clean as usually that way if they do fail the last bolt will hold if not then maybe its just your time! Besides a screw gate of like 100 bucks is cheaper than say i dont know wheelchairs and stuff.


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 Post subject: Re: risky anchors?
PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 2:20 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 465
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
What you mean by "risky"?

Are the alternatives more risky?

I always carry a large maillon or two on the back of my harness, and I don't hesitate to use one if a loweroff or abseil setup looks sketch.


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