Quantcast
It is currently Thu Nov 27, 2014 1:11 am

All times are UTC + 2 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Don't Squeeze I'll Laugh
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 1:58 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:51 am
Posts: 130
Location: Cape Town, South Afirca
Real Name: Arno van der Heever
Stood below "Don't Squeeze I'll Laugh" on Sunday with the intention of climbing it, but then opted for "Last Laugh" at the apparent lack of protection on Don't Squeeze. It looks like a really nice line. Are there gear placements that only become visible once on the route, or do I just need to grow some balls?

_________________
Chuck Norris wears Ueli Steck pyjamas


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 3:07 pm 
Offline

Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 2:50 pm
Posts: 32
Dont squeeze is a super route, have done it a number of times.
There is plenty of gear higher up. Had the exact same thought when looking up at it the first time.
Enjoy


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 3:13 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1173
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
hi sybaard,
we had a good look at the first pitch and could not spot any proper pro for the first 6 - 8m, which includes a desperate looking move to pull into the arete around 2m up. looked like a good opportunity to break a bone or tweak an ankle.
any secret pro on the first 5/6m? or is it as vander said a case of having big cahunas or a crash pad?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 3:33 pm 
Offline

Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 2:50 pm
Posts: 32
Snap! Sorry, forgot to mention i never did the proper ground up start on the arete. Opted for the easier approach to the right moving onto the arete after a few moves. Apparently there is a tricky nut placement after a few moves if doing the proper start. We thought of playing on it on toprope first then go for the send but got lazy.
The rest of the climbing is stellar with good gear.
I have yet to go do Last Laugh, looks rad.
Awe


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 4:11 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:51 am
Posts: 130
Location: Cape Town, South Afirca
Real Name: Arno van der Heever
Thanks for the info Sybaard! Will just have to suck it up for the start. Anyway, Mok is a big guy, I'm sure he can catch me :jocolor:

_________________
Chuck Norris wears Ueli Steck pyjamas


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 6:07 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 898
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
If you are short the move of the ground is tricky and requires a crank to a rounded finger hold with your left hand. Then I toe hook on the right and reach better holds and then there is a bomber Rock1 placement. If you are taller you can crank to a very positive crimp with your left hand about 5 cm higher. You can see it from the ground.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 8:38 am 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:51 am
Posts: 130
Location: Cape Town, South Afirca
Real Name: Arno van der Heever
Thanks Snort! Glad to hear it's bomber. We could see a (the only) diagonal crack on the left of the arete, but were doubtful about the "bomber-ness" of the placement :? Glad to hear we were wrong :thumleft:

_________________
Chuck Norris wears Ueli Steck pyjamas


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 8:45 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 898
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
You get to the first largish flat hold - white -and you are standing on small holds. The rock 1 slides in behind this flat hold and sort of from left to right. It is not in the vertical crack. You cannot see the placement from the ground.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 8:52 am 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:51 am
Posts: 130
Location: Cape Town, South Afirca
Real Name: Arno van der Heever
Aha! Ok cool. Thanks!

_________________
Chuck Norris wears Ueli Steck pyjamas


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 8:59 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1173
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
mystery solved! :thumleft:


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 

All times are UTC + 2 hours


Who is online

Registered users: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot], Yahoo [Bot]


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group