Route at Deadwood

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Guy
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Guy » Thu May 17, 2012 12:57 pm

I really did think that Mike pipped Marijus to this one by a few days, but it seems to be the other way around. Nice work Marijus, mainly for climbing a cool problem, but also on your ability to produce an audit trail to convince that I was talking nonsense (5 years after the event).

It is still doesn't make it 7A.
There's no point being pessimistic, because it probably won't work

Buyoil
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Buyoil » Thu May 17, 2012 1:09 pm

I think I believe Marijus, seeing that he has opened most of the other bouldering on the Peninsula anyways.Guy maybe it is just not a 7a for you?

Bouldering etiquette, do I need to spot if climbing with some people I don't know and they spot me?

vander
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby vander » Thu May 17, 2012 3:23 pm

Buyoil, are you male or female? If female, I hereby declare my undying love for you...marry me! You are awesome! I weep at the joy of reading your touching posts...
Chuck Norris wears Ueli Steck pyjamas

Buyoil
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Buyoil » Thu May 17, 2012 3:47 pm

Vander, I can be whatever you want me to be,however,that is all I will ever be for you.

Bouldering etiquette, how do you spot a girl without the touching being awkard and without pissing off her boyfriend/girlfriend if one is present?

Guy
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Guy » Thu May 17, 2012 4:54 pm

Actually, it is pretty much my bag (being a sloper fest) but I still find it pretty hard and cannot climb it on demand.

Does anyone genuinely find that problem 7A? And I'm not counting that one day in the last 172 years when it was dry, 5 degress and 5% humidity.
There's no point being pessimistic, because it probably won't work

shedlon24
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Real Name: Sheldon Smith

Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby shedlon24 » Thu May 17, 2012 5:37 pm

I have been working scissor fight a bit but with no luck, i can't get through the first slopers... I do think though that most of the "problems" :thumright at Deadwood are quite solid on the grade.
Sheldon
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!

SMEG
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby SMEG » Thu May 17, 2012 7:51 pm

it has shut down many people who would normally klap 7a's.. but so has hip hip chin chin :afro:
scissor fight is harder than 7a in my opinion, and the anecdotal evidence from others i know...

is it harder than popo agie?

shedlon24
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby shedlon24 » Thu May 17, 2012 8:29 pm

yeah, Hip Hip Chin Chin is a really solid route it is my project at the moment, i am just stuck on the longish move to the good crimp...I am short so it makes it quite a bit harder... :jocolor:
Sheldon
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!

Keith
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Keith » Fri May 18, 2012 9:32 am

@Sheldon

Put your right foot a bit lower down oke. On the chalk dot, not on the hand hold. Works wonders

hermann
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby hermann » Fri May 18, 2012 11:33 am

Wow... no really, can't believe this FA thing has been resolved after all this time and after all the differences of opinion - ha ha. I was worried that this thread was getting a trad vibe to it - even a jewish doctor might have jumped in here!

Anyway, yeah, Scissor Fight is quite hard and condition dependant. I guess it could be anything up to 7B. Niel, Monica and I all sent it one nice evening and thought it was stiff. Probably should be 7B if compared to The Bimbler. Not as hard as Popo Agie though - that is an ugly bitch of a climb. The wind literally blew me off that thing once.

shedlon24
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby shedlon24 » Fri May 18, 2012 6:30 pm

@Keith
so I have my foot on a long shelf, I have both hands on the good jug, I move up with my right hand to the small crimp, then I have to do a jump follow through with my left hand to the good crimp, I have only been managing to brush the good crimp as my move is quite dynamic, most people go left hand to small crimp then bounce their left again to the good crimp but I am to short to do it that way. :cyclops:
Sheldon
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!

Keith
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Keith » Sun May 20, 2012 9:01 pm

chinchin.jpg
chinchin.jpg (64.06 KiB) Viewed 1114 times


Sounds desperate, Sheldon. Most common beta is both hands on good jug, left foot on long shelf, right foot down on chalk dot, then launch straight for the good crimp. Like Deon demonstrates.You will grow tall soon I'm sure.

shedlon24
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby shedlon24 » Mon May 21, 2012 4:22 pm

ok, that sounds a lot more simple, going to the crimp with right hand puts you at a weird angle... like this -
Attachments
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just-for-fun-006.jpg (116.46 KiB) Viewed 1055 times
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!

Guy
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Guy » Tue May 22, 2012 12:40 pm

As Keith says, most people go directly from the jug to the edge. It just requires a bit of bisto.

I've also seen the skinny kids do it using the crimp. If you do that, then it is easier to get a right toe-heel in the jug - but it is quite scary because it feels like it might not come out if you fall.
There's no point being pessimistic, because it probably won't work

shedlon24
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby shedlon24 » Tue May 22, 2012 3:39 pm

@guy
I have gone to the crimp and then heel hooked on the good jug, it seemed quite solid you just need a spotter otherwise you fall flat on your back like I did :lol:
Sheldon
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!

shedlon24
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby shedlon24 » Tue Nov 20, 2012 1:22 pm

Hello again, just for some clarification is Scissor Fight a 7A or 7B

Cheers
Sheldon
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!

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Thermophage
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Thermophage » Tue Nov 20, 2012 1:41 pm

6b Sheldon ;)

shedlon24
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby shedlon24 » Tue Nov 20, 2012 6:52 pm

Maybe send it and then give a grade... :P
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!

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Thermophage
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby Thermophage » Tue Nov 20, 2012 8:42 pm

lol :P I will give it a bash on Thursday and again Tuesday next week :)
You send it? Then just give it whatever grade feels right. You've climbed quite a few in that range, so should have a feel.
Grading is rather personal anyway ;)

shedlon24
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Re: Route at Deadwood

Postby shedlon24 » Tue Nov 20, 2012 8:55 pm

Yeah I did manage to send it, does feel very much like a 7A+ or 7B...
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!


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