Quantcast
It is currently Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:37 am

All times are UTC + 2 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 50 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 12:57 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 12:48 pm
Posts: 265
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Guy Holwill
I really did think that Mike pipped Marijus to this one by a few days, but it seems to be the other way around. Nice work Marijus, mainly for climbing a cool problem, but also on your ability to produce an audit trail to convince that I was talking nonsense (5 years after the event).

It is still doesn't make it 7A.

_________________
There's no point being pessimistic, because it probably won't work


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 1:09 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:18 pm
Posts: 16
Real Name: Buyoil
I think I believe Marijus, seeing that he has opened most of the other bouldering on the Peninsula anyways.Guy maybe it is just not a 7a for you?

Bouldering etiquette, do I need to spot if climbing with some people I don't know and they spot me?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 3:23 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:51 am
Posts: 130
Location: Cape Town, South Afirca
Real Name: Arno van der Heever
Buyoil, are you male or female? If female, I hereby declare my undying love for you...marry me! You are awesome! I weep at the joy of reading your touching posts...

_________________
Chuck Norris wears Ueli Steck pyjamas


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 3:47 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:18 pm
Posts: 16
Real Name: Buyoil
Vander, I can be whatever you want me to be,however,that is all I will ever be for you.

Bouldering etiquette, how do you spot a girl without the touching being awkard and without pissing off her boyfriend/girlfriend if one is present?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 4:54 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 12:48 pm
Posts: 265
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Guy Holwill
Actually, it is pretty much my bag (being a sloper fest) but I still find it pretty hard and cannot climb it on demand.

Does anyone genuinely find that problem 7A? And I'm not counting that one day in the last 172 years when it was dry, 5 degress and 5% humidity.

_________________
There's no point being pessimistic, because it probably won't work


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 5:37 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:30 pm
Posts: 70
Real Name: Sheldon Smith
I have been working scissor fight a bit but with no luck, i can't get through the first slopers... I do think though that most of the "problems" :thumright at Deadwood are quite solid on the grade.
Sheldon

_________________
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 7:51 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu May 14, 2009 12:00 pm
Posts: 47
Location: cape town/ grahamstown
it has shut down many people who would normally klap 7a's.. but so has hip hip chin chin :afro:
scissor fight is harder than 7a in my opinion, and the anecdotal evidence from others i know...

is it harder than popo agie?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 8:29 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:30 pm
Posts: 70
Real Name: Sheldon Smith
yeah, Hip Hip Chin Chin is a really solid route it is my project at the moment, i am just stuck on the longish move to the good crimp...I am short so it makes it quite a bit harder... :jocolor:
Sheldon

_________________
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 9:32 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:50 am
Posts: 67
@Sheldon

Put your right foot a bit lower down oke. On the chalk dot, not on the hand hold. Works wonders


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 11:33 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:25 am
Posts: 16
Real Name: hermann
Wow... no really, can't believe this FA thing has been resolved after all this time and after all the differences of opinion - ha ha. I was worried that this thread was getting a trad vibe to it - even a jewish doctor might have jumped in here!

Anyway, yeah, Scissor Fight is quite hard and condition dependant. I guess it could be anything up to 7B. Niel, Monica and I all sent it one nice evening and thought it was stiff. Probably should be 7B if compared to The Bimbler. Not as hard as Popo Agie though - that is an ugly bitch of a climb. The wind literally blew me off that thing once.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 6:30 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:30 pm
Posts: 70
Real Name: Sheldon Smith
@Keith
so I have my foot on a long shelf, I have both hands on the good jug, I move up with my right hand to the small crimp, then I have to do a jump follow through with my left hand to the good crimp, I have only been managing to brush the good crimp as my move is quite dynamic, most people go left hand to small crimp then bounce their left again to the good crimp but I am to short to do it that way. :cyclops:
Sheldon

_________________
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2012 9:01 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:50 am
Posts: 67
Attachment:
chinchin.jpg
chinchin.jpg [ 64.06 KiB | Viewed 1053 times ]


Sounds desperate, Sheldon. Most common beta is both hands on good jug, left foot on long shelf, right foot down on chalk dot, then launch straight for the good crimp. Like Deon demonstrates.You will grow tall soon I'm sure.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 4:22 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:30 pm
Posts: 70
Real Name: Sheldon Smith
ok, that sounds a lot more simple, going to the crimp with right hand puts you at a weird angle... like this -


Attachments:
just-for-fun-006.jpg
just-for-fun-006.jpg [ 116.46 KiB | Viewed 994 times ]

_________________
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!
Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 12:40 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 12:48 pm
Posts: 265
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Guy Holwill
As Keith says, most people go directly from the jug to the edge. It just requires a bit of bisto.

I've also seen the skinny kids do it using the crimp. If you do that, then it is easier to get a right toe-heel in the jug - but it is quite scary because it feels like it might not come out if you fall.

_________________
There's no point being pessimistic, because it probably won't work


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 3:39 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:30 pm
Posts: 70
Real Name: Sheldon Smith
@guy
I have gone to the crimp and then heel hooked on the good jug, it seemed quite solid you just need a spotter otherwise you fall flat on your back like I did :lol:
Sheldon

_________________
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 1:22 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:30 pm
Posts: 70
Real Name: Sheldon Smith
Hello again, just for some clarification is Scissor Fight a 7A or 7B

Cheers
Sheldon

_________________
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 1:41 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:03 am
Posts: 311
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
6b Sheldon ;)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 6:52 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:30 pm
Posts: 70
Real Name: Sheldon Smith
Maybe send it and then give a grade... :P

_________________
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 8:42 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:03 am
Posts: 311
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cuan Lohrentz
lol :P I will give it a bash on Thursday and again Tuesday next week :)
You send it? Then just give it whatever grade feels right. You've climbed quite a few in that range, so should have a feel.
Grading is rather personal anyway ;)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Route at Deadwood
PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 8:55 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:30 pm
Posts: 70
Real Name: Sheldon Smith
Yeah I did manage to send it, does feel very much like a 7A+ or 7B...

_________________
Pain is only temporary but glory is forever!


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 50 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2

All times are UTC + 2 hours


Who is online

Registered users: Baidu [Spider], Bing [Bot], Google [Bot], Yahoo [Bot]


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group