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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 9:17 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2012 7:17 pm
Posts: 22
Real Name: Jacques Pieterse
I am planning to go a hiking trip in the Sentinel Mountains of 3 to 5 days and try to work in a day of climbing at The Sentinel. Can anyone help me with a route or any guide’s? Will it be possible to climb up one day and make camp on the top?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 11:46 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 3:08 pm
Posts: 61
Location: Rustenburg
Real Name: Marc Dewrance
If you mean the Sentinel on the amphitheatre in the Drakensberg then I can help. I have a route guide for the Sentinel which I got from th MCSA KZN sections website.

http://kzn.mcsa.org.za/climbing/route-guides/drakensberg-rds/sentinel-rds


Not sure about camping on top of the Sentinel!? I do know that people camp on top of the amphitheatre or in caves up there.

There are also past discussions on the forum about this. Search for Angus Leppan or Sentinel you should find enough info to get you started.

Otherwise speak to Peak High Mountaneering, they are always willing to guide. :thumleft:


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:18 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2012 7:17 pm
Posts: 22
Real Name: Jacques Pieterse
This is where i want to hike and climb

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/index.ph ... rakensberg

i do sport climbing so i need to know if there is bolts?
thanks

is this the place you are talking about Dewrance?
Thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 9:16 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:26 pm
Posts: 87
Location: Middelburg
Real Name: Frank de Souza
I'm NO subject expert. In fact I've only been up standard route. But what I can tell you is that the berg isn't really of the best quality rock. Crumbly stuff. The only bolted route I know of is Paradigm shift, graded 22 But I would advise taking a trad rack with for some extra back-up. I'm told that one can't treat or see it as a normal sports route. So no falling over and over to get the moves dialled. As far as sleeping at the top, I guess you could, but I don't know how comfortable you're going to be. I remember it as rather rocky. There is a cave not even 10 minutes away from standard route.

My advise do standard route on trad. Only two short pitches. Really easy chimney climbing. We did it in hiking boots and minimum pro. And rather sleep in the cave.

Ps. Do your self a favour and read the thread on Paradigm shift.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 1:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 3:08 pm
Posts: 61
Location: Rustenburg
Real Name: Marc Dewrance
It is the right place, but we did a different route. The gear listed for that route is 14 draws so I guess there are bolts but i really cant help with that route. Sorry.
However the RD reads:
Quote:
Pitch 6: Walk right and then traverse left until you can reach right facing corner and up to ledge, traverse left and then up and right to broken flake. Climb this until a rightward corner system is reached. Climb this to the top, breaking left about 5m before the top and going around big boulder on top. Bolts just over the lip. (Note: this pitch is a bit run out and can be supplemented by some medium cams. Due to the length of the pitch it generates rope drag so climbing on two rope is recommended. More bolts to be added in time.)

so perhaps it might be good to take some trad gear with you.... That rock is seriosuly flakey and notorius for pulling off... It's known as Weet-bix for a reason...

We did Angus Leppan which is next to that route, almost all trad and to be honest we didn't see any bolts!
Saw an old rusted piton in that direction... :shock:

Perhaps try get hold of Alard Hufner, he is listed as one of the first ascensionists, or contact Gavin Raubenheimer at Peak High and ask him. He has exstensive experience there...


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 1:26 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 3:08 pm
Posts: 61
Location: Rustenburg
Real Name: Marc Dewrance
For what its worth, even if you can't climb (for whatever reason) the hiking in that area is still well worth it! Chain ladders, Mt aux sources, Tugela falls, sleeping in caves... etc etc. Go even for that!! :thumleft:


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 1:37 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 3:08 pm
Posts: 61
Location: Rustenburg
Real Name: Marc Dewrance
http://www.alardsbigwallclimbing.com/sentinel.htm

There are photos of them putting bolts in....

Contact him, details on this page: http://www.alardsbigwallclimbing.com/index.html


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