Cederberg (WC) questions

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dirktalma
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Cederberg (WC) questions

Postby dirktalma » Thu Sep 12, 2013 1:30 pm

Me and 3 other Vaalies are heading to the Cederberg for a week from 22 - 29 Sept. Firstly to Tafelberg (Spout cave) and then moving on to Wolfberg (Sanddrif) on 25 or 26 Sept. I have never climbed in the Cederberg before and have some questions:

1. Is the parking spot under the oak trees where the Tafelberg walk-in starts safe to leave a bakkie for a few days?

2. What routes do you recommend for each area to experience as much as possible? The hardest (but a must do) routes that I'd like to climb would be Omega or Woodro, but we also want to do climbs like Lemon and Eclipse. If you've never climbed there and had 3 days per area, what would you climb grade 18 and under?

3. Is there anything else you think I should know thats not mentioned in Tony Lourens' guides? I work in the middle of nowhere and stay on a farm so I have enough time to read...

If anyone wants to join us you are welcome. Unfortunately we don't have any space in the car.

Thanks. I appreciate the free beta. Now just to finish the last few days of work!

Dickie

mokganjetsi
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Re: Cederberg (WC) questions

Postby mokganjetsi » Thu Sep 12, 2013 2:03 pm

Nice!

1. Do not know of a break in there ever, but definitely do not leave any valuables visible (or in the car for that matter).
2. Pick the lines with many stars in the guidebook - pretty accurate.
Tafelberg Frontal is big and have that old-school-classic feel to it.....because it is :) same for Eclipse. Both well worth doing.
Knobless Robot is a must do.
And book a day for Sanddrif sport crag - arguably the best collection of sport 19 - 24s on a single wall in SA.

Keep an eye on the weather forecast, especially for Tafelberg. It can get brutally cold and nasty up there in bad weather. Pick your best weather days for Tafelberg and Sanddrif/Wolfberg for the rest.

Enjoy!

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Re: Cederberg (WC) questions

Postby Nic Le Maitre » Thu Sep 12, 2013 2:30 pm

1) No, I don't know of any cars being broken into. Never had an issue. You could also drop off all your stuff and park your car at Driehoek and walk back.

2) Big Groove, Frontal, Pillbox on Tafelberg. Eclipse, Knobless, Little Red Rooster (with Mildred as the first pitch), Quite Something, Satisfaction Guaranteed (you can climb the first pitch of Hunchback, 2nd pitch of Satisfaction, and then the last pitches of Rock Hyacinth to make an epic, very direct line), Omega, After the goldrush, Omega, Le Grand Gul, Bioplus (or Energy Supplement) and Day of the Jackals on Wolfberg.

3) There is spring in the middle of the slope up to Wolfberg under the big white rock, it's about 3/4th of the way up to Gaper Crack and about halfway between the huge Dassie boulder and where the path reaches the rock band. You can safely leave your gear at the top somewhere, just stash it under a rock so it stays dry if it rains. Drink the Shiraz at Dwarsrivier/Cederberg Cellars. Sanddrift crag is great but only really worth a half day so go on the last day or something.
Happy climbing
Nic

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Xenomorph
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Re: Cederberg (WC) questions

Postby Xenomorph » Thu Sep 12, 2013 2:42 pm

Knobless Robot!
Another sport option is Truitjieskraal, better setting/ energy than Sanddrif crag.
But Sanddrif is still up there, splitting hairs here. (with regards to quality routes)

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henkg
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Re: Cederberg (WC) questions

Postby henkg » Thu Sep 12, 2013 11:34 pm

1. Echo what was said

2. Tafelberg: the Frontal (historic), Maiden's Prayer (quality), Original route on Pillar box (hard 17 to me), Comes a time (20 sport)
Wolfberg: Basically anything you climb is *****. Knobless robot (Superb!) and other single pitch climbs in that gully (a good intro), Little red rooster (replace the first pitch with Whine for consistent quality), Energy Supplement (the 15 traverse pitch is brilliant),Omega is on me tick list, but we traversed too far and did Day of the Jackals which was good.

3. I would add that 3 days at Tafelberg is too short. Budget on a day for the walk in (a proper slog!) and afternoon for the walk out. Walking around the crag too takes time and saps energy. Plus you have the risk of weather as Nic said. So think about either Tafelberg or Wolfberg. I reckon you will be so thrashed after Tafelberg, you would not be to keen for the daily slog up Wolfberg (you may not sleep on Wolfberg). Tafelberg has a more "out there" setting. Wolfberg is luxurious in comparison.
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dirktalma
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Re: Cederberg (WC) questions

Postby dirktalma » Fri Sep 13, 2013 10:28 am

Thanks for all the replies. I guess its never a good idea to move too much between areas. Rather spend enough time and not rush it. It is after all a holiday. We'll have to make peace with the fact that you can't climb everything in your first week there.

It looks like 50m ropes will work fine for the climbing. Do you think we might need 60s for a decent abseil? It looks like its not needed from the RD's, but maybe you have a different opinion.

Thanks again for the input

mokganjetsi
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Re: Cederberg (WC) questions

Postby mokganjetsi » Fri Sep 13, 2013 11:36 am

On most of the Tafelberg & Wolfberg routes you will walk down from the top; otherwise 50ms are fine for abseils.
Take shoes along on the routes - long & stoney walk downs are not barefoot friendly. And a headlamp!

60m ropes are needed for sport climbing at Sanddrif (and some routes at Truitjieskraal)

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Re: Cederberg (WC) questions

Postby Q20 » Fri Sep 13, 2013 1:06 pm

Take warm stuff! I have been snowed on at Tafelberg in December.
My guess is you will be choosing routes by where the sun is....
One life, one body. Use them well.

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Re: Cederberg (WC) questions

Postby Nic Le Maitre » Mon Sep 16, 2013 9:41 am

dirktalma wrote: It looks like 50m ropes will work fine for the climbing. Do you think we might need 60s for a decent abseil? It looks like its not needed from the RD's, but maybe you have a different opinion.


http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Wolfberg

I've updated the Wolfberg page on the wiki to include a descent entry. If you cannot find abseil tat on the Wolfberg, you are looking in the wrong place, there is loads of tat everywhere. So please do try use/replace existing tat rather than creating new abseil points.

Just a note on permits: you are supposed to buy a permit for every day that you spend at Tafelberg (CapeNature permit @~R70ppd, obtainable at Driehoek and Algeria) and you also require a permit to climb on the Wolfberg (obtainable at Dwarsriver @ R50ppd) even if you are staying at Sanddrift campsite.
Happy climbing
Nic


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