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 Post subject: Rope fray
PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 4:05 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2013 6:12 pm
Posts: 8
Location: Randburg
Hey guys

We purchased a Beal rope in April 2011 (Aplogies, I do not have the specifications at hand). We were climbing the other day and we noticed that the rope is slightly frayed 2-3 metres from the one end. We have not had any serious falls on the rope and it is still in a reasonably good condition.

- Is this fray acceptable for us to continue climbing?
- Should we consider cutting the rope at this frayed point?
- At what stage of degradation should one be extra vigilant and perhaps retire the rope?


Many thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Rope fray
PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 6:22 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:13 am
Posts: 136
Location: Benoni
Real Name: David Wade
That is hardly damaged, nothing to worry about.
If the core is showing through the sheath, then cut it, but that is nothing.


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 Post subject: Re: Rope fray
PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 6:56 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 559
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Agree, nothing to be "afrayed" of. I've had ropes look more worn down their entire length.


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 Post subject: Re: Rope fray
PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 9:26 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2013 6:12 pm
Posts: 8
Location: Randburg
Thanks. I think we were just being a little paranoid but better to be safe than sorry. Appreciate the help!


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 Post subject: Re: Rope fray
PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 10:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2009 7:34 pm
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Real Name: Everyday Troll
When you see the white stuff on the inside, then its time to do some chopping:)

This is my Diablo rope, 9.8mm, 70m going on 60m, that's been abused since the beginning of the year. Its been cut a few times and will most likely not see the start of next year, but this is still fine for a few more days of hard climbing. I feel its fine to climb on a rope until the core shows or when the core and sheath separate to a point where the core feels soft and no longer intact. There is the age old technique(picture on next post) of making a loop and pushing it together, if the rope just folds together, cut, if the rope allows itself to still make an arch, you winning.

Ropes wear a bit differently to what people expect. Newer climbers tend to belay tighter, this means that the rope wears about 1.5m from where your knot is (also applies to everybody else working routes). This means that by the time you wear this point of the rope out, the rest of the rope is still perfect. We call this, chopping the working end of your rope. When you have done this, your rope is good as new. When you chop it a few times you will feel it loose a lot of its dynamic stretching ability. This is when you retire your rope.

None of what I have said above applies to if you have had bad falls (factor 2 i guess or very tight static falls) that leaves your core nicked(dead-points). These can be felt by finding a place in the rope that is fold-able (as explained above and in the next post's photo). This is rare unless you falling on hangers or edges or something in a static tight rope fashion. Ask a professional to explain that. My advice, take bigger wippers with more slack (better for your gear, rope, body and mind).

Off topic: I don't recommend the Beal Diablo 9.8 unicore, it hasnt lasted me a year. I still climb on my edelrid python, 10mm, and its been 6 years. And currently I'm enjoying the Mammut Tusk, 9.8mm, putting it through a lot and the sheath is still smooth:D

eT


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Last edited by Forket on Wed Nov 20, 2013 10:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject: Re: Rope fray
PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 10:54 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2009 7:34 pm
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Real Name: Everyday Troll
Forket wrote:
There is the age old technique of making a loop and pushing it together, if the rope just folds together, cut, if the rope allows itself to still make an arch, you winning.


On the left, an old Blue Water rope (needs a cut) and on the right the Beal Diablo (doesn't need a cut).

Ebert Nel


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 Post subject: Re: Rope fray
PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 8:31 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2013 6:12 pm
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Location: Randburg
Thanks Forket, very informative


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 Post subject: Re: Rope fray
PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 1:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:21 pm
Posts: 196
The real issue is knowing what the rope has been through...thus the concern around buying second hand ropes.

In theory one could buy a rope that looks good but has experienced very bad falls (like Forkett mentioned). Most of the time though the life of the rope is dictated by the use. Clearly Forkett works his ropes hard - hence the hectic wear.

I have a Beal 9.7 that is very old. To all intents & purposes it has not been worked hard & it still looks good, but I have retired it because it is very old. The only symptom it has is that it tends to get a lot of twist in it & it is not so hot on the shock absorption side. What am I getting at? Only you know how hard & long you have worked the rope, so you need to call it. If one works ones rope hard like Forkett then you will be able to tell when the rope has had enough. Otherwise the reality is that a rope usually gets "hairy" & fat long before it stops working...

My advice is that if you do not know the history of the rope be very circumspect but if its yours then you will know if it's past it's best - you don't really have to wait until the core is showing, most likely it will lose it's stretch long before then.

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