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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 6:49 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:39 am
Posts: 38
Real Name: Micheal
I have noticed that I have definite peaks in mental and physical states at certain times. Being a budding scientist myself, I have started plotting these factors on a graph type spread sheet according to date(Like waves). My question is this: do you train on the days that you would normally want to peak, or do you rest on those days? Or is the clock totally random? I must add that sending does not necessarily mean peak performance, in the past I have sent routes in pretty bad overall shape(my personal opinion). The same goes for a 3 day rest, for me these 'peak' times are irrespective of sending/resting/climbing- they just seem to pop up now and again.

At the moment I'm on a [8-16-8-16... week] endurance-power-endurance-power 'training' program. I'm sitting in week 11

Any useful advice would be appreciated :pirat:


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 8:44 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:25 pm
Posts: 203
Real Name: Wesley
This is a really hard thing to quantify and there are so many variables. For instance, if you haven't eaten well or drunk liquids prior to training you will probably feel weak. Also the previous days exercise has an impact on the following day.

To get a better idea you should also record:
- Amount of sleep
- Food consumption
- Liquid intake
- Recent exercise
- Any sickness


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 11:27 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 589
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Maybe you have a climbing Biorythm?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biorhythm

I have a climbing biorythm in tune with the planet; I get out on rock when it'a not fucking raining.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:07 pm
Posts: 93
Location: western cape
Real Name: Brandon
What does it really matter? Go climbing when you're phsyched to climb and stay home when your not...


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 8:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:39 am
Posts: 38
Real Name: Micheal
I am particularly interested if anyone else is doing this type of thing, and if there are key variables involved. I could discover this the hard way, but it would be nice if someone could mention some tips on their hard work. This would save me a lot of analytics.

Of course none of this would really matter if the physical state was a constant straight line. ______________________________

Or if one didn't have Behemoths as projects...


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