Quantcast
It is currently Sat Sep 20, 2014 12:08 pm

All times are UTC + 2 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 7:13 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 881
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Me and my new best old friend Deon opened a new route on Yellowwood today. It has 6-8 or so pitches with every pitch around 19. The second pitch is spectacular and just winkles up the most outrageously overhanging orange Tafelberg rock and then through a roof that just works. The gear is stonking and the rock is excellent. There is some minor choss near the top. The single hardest move is off the ground! It is consistent climbing that is varied and funky. It is very different to Fun Time and probably easier but finds its way up the most unlikely steep and overhanging rock This is the must do moderate/easy country route in Du Toits in my view and a great addition to my climbing pension fund. (routes I can do as I get old)
Attachment:
One Helluva Good time topo.jpg
One Helluva Good time topo.jpg [ 92.71 KiB | Viewed 695 times ]


Attachments:
DSC_0061.jpg
DSC_0061.jpg [ 70.4 KiB | Viewed 695 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 8:02 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 10:16 am
Posts: 95
I am having a helluva bad time believing that the roof in the pic goes at 19. Even when I rotate my laptop and look at it sideways. Which way is up btw?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 6:38 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 881
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
It really does! It would be about 17 at CityROCK. You stand in the corner (easily if you are short and a little bunched up if you are tall). You can lace the rail. And then with an undercling you stand there an have a look over the roof and see a rail about 30cm higher which you can lace some more. You then step around onto some sloping footholds and use the higher rail to move up to good holds. Deon did it easily on-sight. It sure does not look like 19 but you have gear at your waist that is easily placed for both moves. Could not be safer or easier. The way to do this pitch is not to belay where I am but to combine the climbing in the pic below but that is what happens when you open routes. You don't get the belay positions right the first time. The climbing below is spectacular and totally outrageous. From below I was gearing up for aiding and flailing with a huge rack including 2 4inch cams. The rock also appeared shattered and dodge but it is of the best rock I have ever found at YW and much like Tafelberg. And it was really easy climbing.

To put it in perspective, neither Deon and I are particularly fit at the moment and we were done with the route by 13h30 and home by 6pm. Furthermore, the climbing is easy enough to do the whole route in 4 very long pitches if you don't mess up your ropes. We did it in 6 pitches.


Attachments:
One Helluva Good Time - Deon on Pitch 2.jpg
One Helluva Good Time - Deon on Pitch 2.jpg [ 138.3 KiB | Viewed 648 times ]
One Helluva Good Time Deon leading the last pitch.jpg
One Helluva Good Time Deon leading the last pitch.jpg [ 107.72 KiB | Viewed 648 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 6:42 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 881
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Also note how steep the terrain is. You winkle around and through overlaps and overhangs the whole way. It really is phenomenal. It is not as hard as Touch and Go


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 6:59 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 27, 2005 7:34 am
Posts: 192
Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Brenda Marx
Looks awesome! Good find, guys!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 10:11 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 2990
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Nice one Snort!

I have to agree with Robert on the grade 19 photo above! Maybe you're just getting stronger in your old age :)

_________________
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 10:39 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 881
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Well is is not harder than Solitaire..... But it is a much bigger undertaking off course


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 10:57 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2006 7:55 pm
Posts: 55
Snort, that looks awesome. I have to come down and try it!

Surely though the crux is harder if you are hellava short?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 11:03 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 881
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
The crux is probably very hard if you are helluva short of energy, desire, motivation and so on. Other than that I do not really know any helluva short climbers. Most climbers I know are helluva tall. In fact Gosia probably reckons I am helluva tall! And she is not short. My wife is 134cm tall, so taller than me. :?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 4:15 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm
Posts: 168
Awesome looking route! Well done
What is the best descent off the top?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 5:41 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 881
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Best is tp walk round or rap down time


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 

All times are UTC + 2 hours


Who is online

Registered users: Baidu [Spider], Bing [Bot], Google [Bot], Yahoo [Bot]


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group