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 Post subject: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 5:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:40 pm
Posts: 10
Real Name: Ryan__
Hi All,

I'm planning to do Exposure in F sometime in the next month - trying to gather as much info as possible!

I've had a look at the MCSA journal articles, and read through this thread viewtopic.php?f=23&t=7721 which has a lot of good advice - however the link to the compiled topo mentioned in the thread is no longer working:

http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/Expo ... f_Trad.pdf

Does anyone have a copy of this document that they could send me? That would be great. Any other tips would also definitely be appreciated.

Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 6:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 3:33 pm
Posts: 100
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Riki Lawson
I've made it available for download here: http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/du-toits-kloof/exposure-in-the-f-major-trad-17/


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 6:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:40 pm
Posts: 10
Real Name: Ryan__
Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 7:58 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:23 am
Posts: 240
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Cormac Tooze
Hmmm, do 'No MOre Bells' instead. Safer, way better quality climbing and easier route finding. Walk in might be a little longer but path more obvious

http://www.climb.co.za/2010/04/climbing ... ss-pieces/
http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/No_More_Bells

Cheers
Cormac


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 9:43 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 877
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Exposure is the best, steepest most adventurous route of its kind and a test piece at its grade in South Africa. No More Bells is a "crag" route and not at all comparable. Exposure is a must do. There are hundreds of routes like No More Bells in the Cederberg and elsewhere/


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 1:31 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm
Posts: 168
I think Snort might be going a bit overboard a bit :roll:

Exposure is a fantastic route, huge exposure, good climbing and worth doing once a year!

No more bells is one of the best routes at its grade, simply beautiful. "hundreds of routes" I don't know Snort, I climb a lot in that grade and I've not found much that is better. BUT it is a long day out for a route of that nature.

Both excellent and worth doing but different.


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 1:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 877
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
The point is that they are not comparable.

No more bells is not what i would call an adventurous route. If you can climb the grade, you are likely to walk it. It is predictable. if you have climbed a few 19's on TM, or even Jacobs Ladder on trad you will do it, weather permitting, on your first attempt. It has 4 short pitches. Good gear etc. And there are many routes like that at Tafelberg and Wolfberg.

Exposure is a full on adventure and quite unique. I have climbed it twice 30 years apart and look forward to doing it again soon. There is nothing like it that I know of except in the Dolomites. It is steep and intimidating at the grade. It has shooed off many parties. It has resulted in one death. Like Yellowwood amphitheater, you gotta be climbing competently at least a grade harder than the stated grade to have a reasonable chance of success. The walk off is a mission too.

Let me put it this way. If you can climb Jacobs ladder and that is your limit you can probably do No More Bells but probably not Exposure which is a lesser grade in the book.

Exposure, for it's grade, is not for sissies.


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 2:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm
Posts: 168
Snort I agree that no more bells is not adventurous at all, albeit it an outstanding route. It has good gear and has good rock and no awkward climbing.

Exposure is harder than the grade suggests. I seem to recall a grade 15 pitch about 2/3rds up the route that always feels harder than the crux. And the route is loooong. I have a video somewhere of us trundling a small boulder off one of the top stances and it falls for a clean 12 seconds.

I cant believe you've only been twice. It's worth making an annual pilgrimage :) I was hoping to get up there again this summer, but my Monday partner is recovering from a broken collarbone, hopefully I can get him fit enough to get up there before winter kicks in.


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 2:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 877
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Hey just across the valley (YW) is some of the MOST adventurous routes in SA, the world, the universe! And they appeal to me more! I always have a project going there so it attracts me like a magnet. Meanwhile, just back from Tafelberg where we climbed 13 pitches all as good as anything on No More Bells. Did "Baboon Speak" and "Drool Rockworm". And then we did two new 5 star routes which we named "Sly and Slinky" and "Mountain Music" Pristine. Am quite sure that Sly and Slinky is new but Mountain Music is so obvious a line that I need to verify it is new. There was however no cairn at the base and seemed unclimbed.

Busy with my day job but will post em soon.


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 2:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm
Posts: 168
yeah I'd love to get to Yellowwood it is one unbelievable looking place, I've only been up to climb no more bells - just finding partners is not always easy: big walk-in, a big wall and hard climbing.

What grades are the routes you opened @ Tafelberg?


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 2:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 877
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Will post soon. Mountain Music 21

Sly and Slinky is a cunning tour through the most unlikely seeming overhangs grade 21. Spectacular Then up a superb grade 20 face and then there is a short aid section that needs to be freed. It is just left of Baboon Speak.


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 6:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 11:21 am
Posts: 264
Real Name: Henk Grobler
I agree with Snort. Those are different kinda routes. Exposure is type two fun, you enjoy it only afterwards when the satisfaction of having done it sets in. It is something which should be done by all at least once, but not the kinda thing I would repeat annually.

The chess pieces (No more bell's crag) has rock comparable to Fountain Ledge, but with a looong walk in (and I think scope for more new lines). Exposure has less clean rock and a most shitty walk off.

_________________
You may still be here tomorrow, but your dreams may not. Cat Stevens


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 3:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2008 1:57 pm
Posts: 17
Microbe, Woody and I had a good but looong day out on Exposure in F Major on Saturday.
We found the walk off description of 'Go down ramps and ledges in a north-westerly direction' rather vague.
After topping out we walked towards the north west and after a short time dropped down slightly to a nek before traversing along the side of the mountain in what we thought was still a north west direction. Eventually we cut back rightwards and ended up doing an awful, bushy, and loose stoney descent down a valley to the high lying vlakte. There were no signs of any ramps.
Anyone have some better beta for the initial part of the walk off ?
Also we most probably went off route on pitch 9 which was way harder than the supposed crux.
•P9: 11m “F2”. Climb up diagonally right until it is possible to move up to the left on spaced footholds and cupholds in the face. Continue to a good stance. This pitch is steep and sustained and should not be underestimated, especially in cold weather. Many climbers who walked the crux have come to grief here.
I would think that this pitch is only F2 if done in a very specific way.
Adele


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 3:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 877
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
The walk-off is kak. The route deserves an abseil descent which I would consider fashioning at some stage using threads only. But dunno if I will ever get back there. Too much to climb elsewhere.


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 4:24 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 18, 2007 10:39 am
Posts: 155
Location: Cape Town (mostly :) )
What Snort said (they are not comparable)

Again, what Snort said - Exposure (and hence Thunderbolt et al) would be awesome with rapp-to-the-start options in situ but, Snort, I'm curious as to why you'd "thread only" for in situ? it's probably 3 or 4 straight 60m raps and the only time one fully trusts gear (rappelling). Are Pegs also excluded?


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 4:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 877
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Exposure crag like Sandstone cliffs in general lends itself to sling and thread points. i would not construct the rap down the route but further left to avoid having to reverse the crappy approach traverse.

In my view this is by far the most user friendly, safe, elegant and easily maintainable system of constructing lower offs. There is no damage to the rock and no "expensive" and dodgy fixed gear that wears. I have personally pulled a peg and a bolt from a lower off before and simply do not trust either. I know one person who was killed when a peg failed on rappel.

If one uses fixed gear then aluminium threaded nuts and hexes are fine but nothing else. When doing this kind of thing I usually have one with me in case I cannot find a sling point or thread. If I use a sling point I make a plant to prevent the sling from blowing off. In that way threads win hands down.


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 5:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2007 8:09 pm
Posts: 248
The route that has worked well for me traverses around the front of the summit cone, and then stays not too far (300m?) from the escarpment edge. That side of the mountain corresponds with the angle-of-fold of the rock, so you come down slabs at about a 40 deg angle.

You aim for a point about 600m back from the V-nek, on the vlakte.

One then descends the V-nek and down the gulley for quite some way, breaking out left a bit after the bigger scree slope on the right. (Further than it seems it should be at the time) Breaking out makes the going quite pleasant, save for the last 800m to the road, the line of which can be better scoped out if you hit it with daylight to spare.


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 Post subject: Re: Exposure in F Major
PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 1:47 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 06, 2009 8:08 am
Posts: 76
Real Name: Raymond Kroger
Adele, Pitch 9 is probably the crux of the route. Have done it three times and this pitch gets easier each time though. A bit of a sequence and some hidden hand-grips higher up. I find it harder especially because the gear is thin and difficult to place. I also recall a loose block that makes it tricky.

The 17/F3 below is more enjoyable and easier to read.


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