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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 5:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 875
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Lekker Time Pitches 2- 5 climbza res.jpg[/attachment]There had to be an easy route at Yellowwood other than Smalblaar. So we did it last Wednesday. It has lots of climbing and it is easy. But make no mistake this is still Yellowwood. So you gotta be competent. It is not for beginners.

It is not quite as "serious" as exposure in F but it has also not been climbed into condition. My buddy Deon broke a hand-hold while following on the 4th pitch and stretched the rope......

So here it is: I reckon it is at 4* and with a bit of traffic to get rid of the dodgy bits and the lichen here and there it will be 5*.

I need to climb it again before posting it on the WIKI routes as I need better photos and ensure that the best line is taken.

The top pitch is really cool 6*

Attachment:
Lekker Time Pitches 2- 5 climbza res.jpg
Lekker Time Pitches 2- 5 climbza res.jpg [ 136.68 KiB | Viewed 682 times ]
Attachment:
Lekker Time Pitches 2- 5 climbza res.jpg
Lekker Time Pitches 2- 5 climbza res.jpg [ 136.68 KiB | Viewed 682 times ]
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Lekker Time topo straight on view sony climbza res.jpg
Lekker Time topo straight on view sony climbza res.jpg [ 145.63 KiB | Viewed 682 times ]
Lekker Time last pitch 16 clinbza res.jpg
Lekker Time last pitch 16 clinbza res.jpg [ 147.91 KiB | Viewed 682 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 10:24 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 1167
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
Awesome Snort!

And thanks for uploading the RD on the wiki. One problem: the lines blend in with the rock and does not show on a printed version; can you perhaps change the line coloring to bright red or something? Thanks! :thumleft:


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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 10:41 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
mokganjetsi wrote:
can you perhaps change the line coloring to bright red or something? Thanks! :thumleft:


Yellow would be a better colour than red as many people 'colour blind' to red/green - we've been using blue or yellow.

Nice one Snort - looks lekker :thumright

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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 10:18 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:26 am
Posts: 79
Location: London, United Kingdom
Real Name: Stephen Martindale
Two hundred metres of grade 16 trad. at Yellowwood? I'm sure I'm obliged to return from this dingy place (London) in order to 'visit family' in Cape Town.

Now would that be a "2014" grade 16 or a 1970's-equivalent grade 16?

Could you comment on the severity level (Snort's S-system)?

EDIT: http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Lekker_Time_16_*****
The wiki page answers my questions - link above.


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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2014 7:28 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm
Posts: 168
snort, you are doing amazing work up there, bloody good job!
how is that wall regarding water?
ie we're due for some light rain on sunday, how will it be for climbing on monday?
I've only climbed on the chess pieces not yellowwood itself


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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2014 1:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 875
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Brent there is plenty of water. There are now 2 water points that each hold at least 30l. The first point is on the way up about 100m before the base of the main wall on the right. As you leave the rocky scree look right about a rope length away to the right and beyond some trees you will see a silver basin and a black bucket. Both will be full of water. There are also lots of full bottles amongst the restios. Refresh them please by throwing out the old water and refilling them with clean water.

The other water point is at the start of Divine Time. There is a large blue container that will be full. Check the container and if has collected a lot of choss throw out the water, clean out the choss, and let it refill but only if the drip is running.

There is also water on the walk-up in the gulley but this is only relevant if you do the new route Sublime Time. As you walk up you will pass the pylon and the cross a gulley and then get to a short scramble. Once you up the scramble the trail comes very close to the forest before switching back. You will see a cairn leading into the forest. At this time of year and probably all of winter there is running water about 50m in.


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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2014 1:21 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 875
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
BTW yesterday did another one with my buddy Dark Horse. We had a "Sublime Time". This route is about 100m down and left of "Lekker Time". All the pitches are excellent on good rock and good pro. Nice 'n steep with "thinking climbing". That is why I am not sure if its 18 or 19. Once you work out the moves they seemed really easy. And nowhere was it very strenuous.

This route is best approached from low down after walking for about 30m. You cross into the forest immediately after the short scramble bit on the walk-up and find yourself a nice spot in the trees next to the stream to leave your kit and make tea. Then head for the obvious right hand ridge and do some very pleasant scrambling for around 300+metres in vertical height. You will find cairns on the way as this was also an obvious route from many years ago. (Any ideas what it is called, and who did it). Eventually things get steeper and there are two steep scrambling sections on good grey rock that I soloed in approach shoes but most people would prefer a rope.

You then get to the base of a steep wall with a large lichen covered face to your left. (My next project). The old route obviously continues straightt up but there is a ledge system going to the right and Sublime Time starts about 50m to the right next to an obvious large block leaning against the wall.

Once done with the climb look to the right and you will find a thread rap point and 4 easy raps 60m 60m 60m and 50m gets you all the way down to the forest. Crossing the forest is a little challenging but once on the approach path it is easy cruising back to your stuff next to the stream.

This is a fantastic route if you have a short day and as good as anything at Yellowwood. I need better photos to show the approach before putting on the WIKI.
Attachment:
Sublime Time 18-19 Climbza res.jpg
Sublime Time 18-19 Climbza res.jpg [ 107.94 KiB | Viewed 329 times ]


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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2014 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm
Posts: 168
thanks snort

I should have worded my post better, how well does the rock dry out after rain?


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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2014 5:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 875
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Good Time Lekker Time and Sublime Time will dry overnight. Sublime is probably the safest route to do soo after rain. It also has some of the best consistent climbing with excellent rock with the easiest access and descent. So you do not need too early a start.

If you decide to do Sublime Time let me know and will send you the beta and RD. Will try find time to WIKI it this weekend. It really is 140m of continuous excellent climbing. If you can do MAGNETIC WALL OR ATLANTIC CRAG with reasonable proficiency then this will be just fine.


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