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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 5:07 pm 
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Real Name: Greg Hart
lower roof/crux

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 5:08 pm 
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Real Name: Greg Hart
Then it zoots up this fine looking piece of rock

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 5:09 pm 
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Real Name: Greg Hart
And finally busts through the overhanging guarding the top

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Sorry I don't have any climbing pics of it yet - it kicked our asses when we tried it!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 5:53 pm 
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Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Fnell. Quite a piece of rock.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 7:48 am 
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Location: Stellenbosch
Real Name: Brenda Marx
Here are a few of Phlip I took while he was still working the moves


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 2:53 pm 
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Real Name: Jacques Redelinghuys
to think i taught him everything he knows about climbing.... hehehe :shock: :thumright


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 12:52 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 2:07 pm
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Location: somerset-west
Real Name: phlip olivier
Haha! Thanks all!
Ek wil net dankie sê vir my ma en vir my pa, en my ouma en oupa...

But seriously, great vision from the pioneering party: Malcolm, Greg and Ross.
Super stoked to be a part of the process!

And was it not for the communal beta concocting, cheating shenanigans with Danie, the route would probably still feel impossible. Thanks dude. Sondag ry jy hom in die grond in. Super alles!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 12:55 am 
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Real Name: phlip olivier
Turtle wrote:
to think i taught him everything he knows about climbing.... hehehe :shock: :thumright
Ja en toe gaat sta kruip jy in jou dop in :!: Eish :eye:


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 11:18 pm 
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
JTF's project at Oudtshoorn on the The Incredibles wall is open.

The route is the extension of Dash (28) and is called 'Dash Be Quick' grade 31 (unconfirmed).

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 2:29 pm 
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Clinton Martinengo opened a new route Oorlogs Kloof last weekend.

The route is called the Tailor and goes at 26/7b and has 8 bolts plus chains.
You can find more details about the route in the Wiki - http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Seamster_Buttress

Clinton also opened a new route at the Penthouse recently: Clinton Martinengo sends the ‘Hustler Project’ at the Penthouse


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 10:47 pm 
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Real Name: Everyday Troll
going to fernkloof tomorrow in tights :pirat:


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 8:10 am 
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Real Name: Justin Lawson
Don't forget to post pic's :)

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 3:40 pm 
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Real Name: Everyday Troll
Fernkloof with the Pretoria Crew :afro:


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 3:52 pm 
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Location: Durban, South Africa
Real Name: Scott Sinclair
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 11:55 am 
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Real Name: Greg Hart
Jusseee - check the tites! Lank retro - and matching nogal


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 3:08 pm 
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Location: Waterval Boven
Ai-ai ... die mense van Pretoria af!

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 11:11 am 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Tony Dick, Deon Van Zyl, Bruce Daniel and I recently developed the Sublime Time Buttress on the West facing ridge of Yellowwood Ravine. We are not the first party to explore that crag. In 1981 Mike Scott with Peter De Tolly (he can still be seen cranking at CityROCK on Tuesday mornings) and John Moss did the "Red Waterfall route" at "F" grade. Sublime Time is the plum route there but all the climbing is excellent with the top red face providing 5* quality. The routes are 140 to 160m long and can be done in 4 or 5 pitches. There is a very user abseil descent on the right. Send me a PM for the high res picture which you can download on a smart phone and use as a route guide as you climb by magnifying the picture to see the detail!.

The approach starts at the same place from the N1 as the other YW routes. Continue to the pilon. Walk another 20 minutes or so passing through a shallow gulley and then soon after there is a short corner scramble of around 3m. Continue up about 30m and spot a cairn adjacent to the forest. Once in the forest go down and left behind a boulder, squeeze past a tree and then head up right for about 30m following cairns. Have tea at the stream. If it is dry go up about 20-30m and find a black barrel with water. Follow cairns diagonally out left and continue up the ramp for around 250m until at the base of the routes. Stay on the clean gray rock slabs and avoid the loose gullies on each side.

Sublime Time is the route to do but once you do the 19 pitch rap off and do the 20 pitch on the right. It is superb. You have plenty of time to do Some Time as well in a normal day if it is not too hot and you will end up having done 320m (1000ft) or so of excellent moderate climbing. In time I will post this all on the WIKI.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2014 7:56 pm 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Richard Halsey
Faye Scott recent sent Secret Ninja (31) at Umgeni.

I was there with her a few weeks back when she went to 'take the draws down' as it was late in the season, and she thought conditions would deteriorate. However, on the way up she made it look so damn easy (in addition to incredible wasp avoidance skills), that the draws stayed up. A week or so later, send.

Respect.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:26 am 
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If I'm not mistaken, this is one of the Umgeni routes that escaped the dreaded Pedley downgrade.. so the first confirmed 8a+ by a SA woman?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 7:39 am 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Richard Halsey
For a sport route I would assume so.

Gosia Lipinska sent Triple Jeopardy on Table Mountain earlier this year. I think it officially survived the Pedley downgrade, but he would have to confirm. Seven or so locals have done it, with some murmurings about it maybe being very hard 30, but I think the potential downgraders were in the minority.

Semantics aside, both are superb achievements, and the way these women are going I think there will be plenty more to come.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 8:51 pm 
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
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I spent quality time with Margaret my wife, my best friend, and greatest fan at Yellowwood today. We fashioned a wonderful route that I considered calling Wife Time but that sounds a bit twee. So "Quality Time" it is. It somehow winkles its way up some excellent grey rock and finishes steeply up the red face just to the left of Sublime Time. It probably overlaps with Red Waterfall route on the first and possibly the second pitch here and there but is by and large an independent route.

This is a great outing at the grade. And it is after all at Yellowwood.

Although it is only grade 15, there are several thought provoking moves and the last pitch is very steep! So, like all Yellowwood routes, it is not for beginners.

The rock is mostly excellent and the gear is good!

Enjoy


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 7:15 am 
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Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Nice going Snort!

21 year old Andrea Biffi recently made a trip to Kalymnos where he went on a sending spree climbing 26 routes up to 8b. Andrea went on to send Gaia (8b) and afterwards onsighted Aegialis (7c) and Punto Caramelo (8a+).
- Click here for the full list of routes

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