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 Post subject: Monks Cowl North Face
PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 1:02 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:01 am
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Real Name: Schalk Erasmus
We are interested in climbing the north face up Monks Cowl in the Drakensberg.
I'm looking for any info on the route, grading, gear needed and route description.
I will also appreciate any info on the other routes up to the summit.

regards
Schalk Erasmus


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 1:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 6:37 pm
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Real Name: Jonathan
To the best of my knowledge there are 3 routes:
- Not So Auto (very long, difficult, exposed, mixed sport/trad, not much gear). I believe it is grade 26-28, but google it - there is a good RD on a website somewhere - this would be more or less the north face
- Bary's Route (can't remember if it is 6 or 7 pitches, all trad, about a grade F3 I think, not much gear, very bold, and infamous for being the route that took the life of one of SA's best climbers at the time - Dick Bary, 22 years old if I have my facts right).
- Standard Route (3 pitches, all trad, F2 with a scary traverse on 1 piece of gear)

Somewhere on this site there is a story on Not So Auto, VE has some details and photos from when Andrew P lead a team up the Standard Route (some also did Bary's route) over the easter weekend earlier this year.

Note that I have not done any of the 3 routes on this peak.

Be careful if you aren't familiar with Berg rock - [insert standard long warning here]

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 2:58 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 15, 2006 10:54 pm
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Real Name: CityROCK
Drakensberg Map #2.
Read all about it for a mere R72 plus shipping.
https://www.mountainmailorder.co.za/ind ... uctId=1637


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 8:02 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2014 1:11 pm
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Real Name: Carl Dreyer
With respect, you won't learn anything about climbing RD's in that map.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 2:44 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2010 11:20 pm
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Real Name: Jacques Redelinghuys
he asked for any info.... its something....


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 3:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:07 am
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The maps cost 50 bucks at the monks cowl reception. Just saying.

Can get all 6 there if you like & plenty there a few weeks ago...

s


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:44 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:21 pm
Posts: 354
Schalk, Not so Auto on the N face of Monks Cowl is hard and serious. If you've done a few trad routes of 300+m at grade 26 or so then you'll be fine. If that's the case drop me a pm and I'll send you some beta.
Otherwise the Standard Route is pretty, well, standard berg climbing - some losseness, some grass, some runouts and poor pro, lots of exposure and a great summit. There are better, easier and safer berg routes, but it is worthwhile. Lots of berg RD's here: http://kzn.mcsa.org.za/climbing/route-guides/drakensberg-rds


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 11:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:01 am
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Real Name: Schalk Erasmus
Thanks everyone I appreciate the feed back.

Any suggestions on what is a good summit to go do as a introduction in the berg.

Peace be the journey


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 7:17 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 6:37 pm
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Real Name: Jonathan
SchalkErasmus wrote:
Any suggestions on what is a good summit to go do as a introduction in the berg.


For a climber - I would say Sentinel.

If you want to switch it to light unroped climbing/mostly hiking - Cathedral Peak (beautiful view from the top, I did this one a few months ago).

Hiking only: Beacon Buttress/Mont-Aux-Sources (both good), Cleft Peak, Thumb Spur (at Giants Castle - not named on the map, the 3055m spot height near Langalibalele Pass) or Rhino Peak.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 9:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 9:13 pm
Posts: 82
Of interest, the North Face had a few bolts put in it, drilled on lead with a monstrous petrol driven rotary-hammer drill that looks like something Hamas has invented.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 9:52 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 594
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Camp wrote:
looks like something Hamas has invented.



:lol:


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