Stuck cam on Africa crag

Did you forget you favourite boots at the crag? Or, did you find some quickdraw on the 4th bolt of some route?
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jacosmuts
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Stuck cam on Africa crag

Post by jacosmuts » Mon Feb 13, 2017 10:58 am

Good day all

Posting on behalf of Claire Keeton. They did Africa Crag on Saturday. Due to time constraints they had to leave a stuck Green X4 Cam on the third pitch.

If you end up doing the route and mange to unstuck the cam it would be really appreciated if you could contact me to return it to her.

Thank you
Jaco

JacovV
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Re: Stuck cam on Africa crag

Post by JacovV » Tue Feb 14, 2017 2:43 pm

Hi Jaco

Im, planning on going up the route soon and will do my best to retrieve it. Will also see if I can get Andre's cam out.

Two weeks ago Farrell Davids and I could not get out my "Little Red Nut" on the end of the first pitch of Bombay Duck. Nobody has responded.

Therefore, if you by chance go up Bombay, please keep an eye open for my nut :wink:

All the best

Jaco van Vuuren
The price of anything is the amount of life you exchange for it

Guardian
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Re: Stuck cam on Africa crag

Post by Guardian » Wed Feb 15, 2017 9:15 am

Well, now I might just go up Bombay this weekend...
How's the gear on the route (well, at least I know of one bomber nut :thumright ) ? My hardest trad so far was probably Jacob's and would prefer good gear one a new grade.
There is nothing more beautiful than a well dressed alpine butterfly.

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Stuck cam on Africa crag

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Wed Feb 15, 2017 10:48 am

Gear on Bombay is very good. If I recall correctly there is still a very stuck cam on the crux. Use it at your own risk, it's been there forever.
3rd pitch
Is that the actual 3rd pitch (i.e. the first pitch off Upper Africa) or the actual 5th pitch (i.e. 3rd off Upper Africa)?
Happy climbing
Nic

Guardian
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Re: Stuck cam on Africa crag

Post by Guardian » Wed Feb 15, 2017 11:00 am

Great, Il give it a go then (and two cams at the crux is better than one).
Clair's cam is on the actual 5th pitch, 3rd from upper Africa. On the rail where you go left just after the stance.
My nut is on the actual 3rd pitch (1st from upper Africa). In the starting crack.
There is nothing more beautiful than a well dressed alpine butterfly.

jacosmuts
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Re: Stuck cam on Africa crag

Post by jacosmuts » Thu Feb 23, 2017 9:48 pm

Hello Jaco,

I'm not sure about the pitch number (Combined pitches on it last time I did it) but yes - apparently it was on the traverse left, 2 or 3 pitches up from the upper ledge. I gather that you did the route and did not find it?

Thank you
Jaco Smuts

JacovV
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Re: Stuck cam on Africa crag

Post by JacovV » Fri Feb 24, 2017 7:51 am

Hi Jaco

We found Andre's nut on the first pitch and retrieved it, but went off route at the traverse to left after the chimney and found ourselves in terrain above our ability as the clouds came in. We then made a stance on the little ledge with the two old pitons and had to rap off them and a nut to the bigger ledge just below :shock: We left a double loop of brand new 7mm cord (reddish) on the pitons and nut for those who might find themselves in a similar situation soon.

We never saw Claire's cam, so sorry.

All the best

Jaco Janse van Vuuren
The price of anything is the amount of life you exchange for it

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Stuck cam on Africa crag

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Fri Feb 24, 2017 7:59 am

JacovV wrote:but went off route at the traverse to left after the chimney and found ourselves in terrain above our ability as the clouds came in. We then made a stance on the little ledge with the two old pitons and had to rap off them and a nut to the bigger ledge just below
Sounds like you went too high up the chimney and ended up on Oddshouters (I think?)
Happy climbing
Nic

Damage
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Re: Stuck cam on Africa crag

Post by Damage » Mon Feb 27, 2017 10:04 pm

Can confirm if it was placed on route that it's no longer there
Only Gear we saw was on old Biner on red tape in the crack just after upper Africa ledge and that grey cam that has been there forever

/d

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