Building Bouldering Cave

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ljdk
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Real Name: Lukas de Kock

Building Bouldering Cave

Post by ljdk » Tue Jun 13, 2017 10:21 am

Hi

I want to build a bouldering cave in my garage.
Its a really big garage so i will have to use some for of pillars or remove the ceiling and mount directly onto the roof trusses.

Is there a good source to start researching how to do this? My skills on woodwork is not so great.
I would also like to get away with a small budget. 8K max. If at all possible

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Nic Le Maitre
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Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Location: Stellenbosch

Re: Building Bouldering Cave

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Tue Jun 13, 2017 10:47 am

Must resist temptation to give you a lmgtfy link...
https://www.backcountry.com/explore/how ... n-10-steps
Happy climbing
Nic

ljdk
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2012 10:46 am
Real Name: Lukas de Kock

Re: Building Bouldering Cave

Post by ljdk » Wed Jun 14, 2017 11:39 am

Anyone can google. I was hoping for a more personal experience post.
I already bought a book on building climbing walls. But seeing SA almost all houses / garages are made from brick and our trusses are different i assumed someone here would have personal insight.

But hey... be a dick.

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Building Bouldering Cave

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Wed Jun 14, 2017 12:08 pm

I'm not trying to be a dick. It's just that a simple online search (or of this forum) will generate loads of advice that is already written. And demonstrates that you have already taken that elementary first step. People are far more inclined to help those who have already made an effort.

For instance: viewtopic.php?f=17&t=11615&p=57307&hili ... all#p57307

If you then come and say that I have this space X by X by X and I have Y budget and N amount of time then people will be more inclined to help you. I've never built a wall, so I can't help with specifics but pointing you in the direction of what you wanted surely is helpful?
Happy climbing
Nic

Don
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Re: Building Bouldering Cave

Post by Don » Wed Jun 14, 2017 5:57 pm

I would avoid building roofs. It wastes space, and is not so functional in training unless you have the extra space.

Chris F
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Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Re: Building Bouldering Cave

Post by Chris F » Wed Jun 14, 2017 7:02 pm

Is it a single garage? Double? A frame roof?

Depending on the orientation of the roof trusses in relation to the climbing surface you may have to add a supporting pillar midway, but I'd avoid if possible, and just add ties to the roof trusses to spread the load - make holes in the ceiling to find where they are, and / or tie back to the garage walls - main frame needs to be reasonably strong, the ties less so as if set up right they will just take a direct tension load.

Agree - avoid roofs - you want a decent free open climbing area, the maximum steepness to make the most of the available space, but not so steep you risk bouncing off the opposite wall if you fall off. 45 max, 20 min.

vinceB
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Re: Building Bouldering Cave

Post by vinceB » Wed Jun 14, 2017 8:11 pm

Hi,

I've built my own little gym in my attic and I have to say it's awesome to have that kind of equipment. BUT, you have to consider several factors before starting building:
1) How far are you from the nearest climbing gym?
2) How much time are you willing to invest in building the bouldering wall?
3) How steady are you in your training practice? Walls are great to gather dust.
4) What kind of climbers are you? Lead climber, boulderer? 18 or 30 lead? 6B or 8A bouldering?

A good advice: DON'T GO SMALL.
No small walls, lots of T-nuts, lots of grips and lots of volumes. Otherwise, you will get quickly tired of your wall.

I decided to go for 2 walls opposing each other.
- It's 6 plywood panels (18mm 1,2 m x 2,5 m): 3 panels per wall.
- Framing: Just put one beam at the back of your wall every 50/60ish cm. Build it strong! And careful not to put a beam over the holes of your T-nuts ;)
- I used a very high density of T-nuts (M10): more than 180 per panels. Don't underestimate the cost of these guys! They are pricey.
- Not a lot of screws are needed actually!

What shape?
I am actually extremely happy with the shape of the walls:
- Wall 1 "slab": bottom 2 panels are overhanging (-12°), top panel slabby (+3°). Great for training your technique.
- Wall 2 "cave": bottom 2 panels are violently overhanging (-42°), top panel overhanging (-37°). Great for steep training.
This break of angles is great as it completely changes your climbing experience after having done the first half. Don't do roof. Don't do pure slabs. Don't do corners. The routes are getting boring really quickly.

Such a setting is quite tough though. Play with the angles and take a lot of time to draw and re-draw and re-re-draw. I was using powerpoint to do some rough sketches. :)

For the grips, i bought some directly from some retailers. They were selling that by the kilo!! 150kg of holds (roughly 200 holds) are good to start. Buy from some gyms. And do your own!

Metolius issued a great guide about building up your own gym:
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pdf/How ... g-Wall.pdf
Check out MoonBoard as well. You don't want to build a moon board but their guide is great to build this very specific type of walls ;)
http://www.moonboard.com/how-to-build-your-moonboard/

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justfly
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Re: Building Bouldering Cave

Post by justfly » Wed Jun 14, 2017 8:21 pm

cast some grips in cement in a sand mould with some 10 mm bolts in them . drill 11 mm holes in wall . epoxy holds onto and into wall (ABE372 epoxy ) traverse around garage :thumright cheep cheep
who needs big jugs when you've got a tight crack

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Liz
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Real Name: Lizelle Makovini

Re: Building Bouldering Cave

Post by Liz » Wed Jun 14, 2017 9:30 pm

I am lucky to have a cousin who is into steel works. So he designed a wall along one length of the garage - the wall overhangs a tad and then the last plywood panel is adjustable to about 45 deg. The frame does not attach to trusses and is fixed to the wall. Have never been bored. Just put a bucket load of grips on and design your own problems :)
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ljdk
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Real Name: Lukas de Kock

Re: Building Bouldering Cave

Post by ljdk » Wed Jun 14, 2017 11:03 pm

Most awesome. Saw some great things here. I like the steal frame thing goingnon there.
Will have some time tomorrowto create some concepts of what i want to build.

Perhaps after this you folks can point n say that part there will break hip or somethingbetc

Thx for the interest.
Im smackmin the middle of climb barn,womderwall amd rockmcity. 43km one way

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emile
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Re: Building Bouldering Cave

Post by emile » Thu Jun 15, 2017 7:59 am

ljdk wrote:Im smackmin the middle of climb barn,womderwall amd rockmcity. 43km one way
Centurion?

Hector
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Re: Building Bouldering Cave

Post by Hector » Thu Jun 15, 2017 11:35 am

I have a disassembled bouldering cave I want to sell. Check the link. PM me if you're interested and we can talk price.
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=15110&p=68620#p68620

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TristanM
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Real Name: Leonard
Location: Cape Town

Re: Building Bouldering Cave

Post by TristanM » Wed Jul 05, 2017 11:17 am

So have you built it? any pics of the place? would be interesting to have a look, thinking about rebuilding my garage as well...

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TristanM
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Real Name: Leonard
Location: Cape Town

Re: Building Bouldering Cave

Post by TristanM » Thu Jul 06, 2017 11:30 am

Actually I need a piece of advice, not sure where to post it.
I am in the middle of house renovation, right now redoing my deck. Want to build a wooden terrace like this (not my property, some apartment in Canada) tranio.com/canada/adt/1575109/ Found some really beautiful thermally treated oak planks, the distributor claims that they don’t need oiling or any protection layer, since they are thermally treated. Have you heard about such type of wood, is it really as stable as they promise (20 years)?
If it is a wrong thread please advise me where is will fit better. Just thought as we speak about building here...Thanks anyway.

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