Binding 2 ropes together for abseiling

[RockClimber507]

Good Day

This question is for experience Trad climbers and Kloofing dudes

I would like to know from your years of experience what is the best method to connect 2 ropes together?

I have done a lot of research on the internet and the majority says the Double overhand knot (Double EDK) is the strongest and the safest with the added bonus of getting less stuck in a rock as you pull it down for retrieval.

So whats your thoughts on that?

Please Look at this youtube video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQn9m8e ... e=youtu.be
please start looking from the running time 5:03 on the Video for the Double overhand knot (Double EDK) and please tell me if that is correctly tied.

Thank you kindly
Regards
Jake

[Justin]

Check out this thread (at the bottom): Re: Abseil points - your technique?

In particular http://www.rockandice.com/climb-safe/wh ... appel-knot

Personally I like to use a reef knot combined with a Double Fishermans (call me old fashioned). It's safe, secure, bulky and easy to get undone afterwards.

Yes, the Double EDK (knot) at 5.03 appears correct - I've not used it before and don't teach it.

Here is the table from video (below).

[RockClimber507]

Hi Justin

Thank you for your reply, much appreciated

the link you provided http://www.rockandice.com/climb-safe/wh ... appel-knot
compares the Double Fisherman's ,Ring Bend with the single EDK (single overhand knot)

The result was the single EDK was the weakest.


In the Video and the table you copy from the video I provided, shows that The Double EDK (double overhand knot 13.25kN) is a LOT stronger then the Single EDK (single overhand knot 7.66kN), One can assume that the Double EDK (which this post is about) will be the same or perhaps even better then the Double Fisherman's and Ring Bend.

I do feel now much more comfortable using the Double EDK, now that I know you use a Double Fishermans knot and that it works for you.

I shall try this Double EDK out and give feedback

Thank you for your reply and advise
I really appreciated it
Regards
Jake

[hendriks]

Single edk with 30cm tails is fine to rap on.

We typically use double edk with a stone knot for kloofing, last person down removes the biner and stone knot and raps on both lines/or last two people simul abseil. Edk is superior as the knot has a flat side making it less likely to get stuck as well as a small'ish profile. Double edk is better due to not rolling as easily and easy to untie.

Yes, there are stronger knots to join ropes and if you are not rigging a normal retrievable abseil then double fishermans with or without a reef knot or sheet bend in the middle is great. For both single and double person abseils edk with long enough tails or double edk is fine.

NB NB NB !!! - Don't confuse the edk (single/double overhand) with the Flat-8. If you don't know the difference get someone to show you. The flat-8 will kill you, maybe not the first time you use it but it is almost guaranteed to fail when used to join two ropes.

[RockClimber507]

Hi Hendriks
Thank you so much for your post, what you wrote was exactly what I wanted to know. Thanx million

Can you do me one big favour please
Please Look at this youtube video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQn9m8e ... e=youtu.be
please start looking from the running time 5:03 on the Video for the Double overhand knot (Double EDK) and please tell me if that is correctly tied since you know the Double EDK. I DONT want to learn it wrong

Thank you so much
Regards
Jake

[Nic Le Maitre]

It's tied entirely correctly. Seems to be a good option.

The flat overhand is simpler and as long as it is tied with adequate tails (>30cm) will be perfectly fine as well.

[RockClimber507]

Hi Nic
Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge and letting me know the video is all good

I seriously appreciate it a lot.

Kind Regards
Jake