Pocket Rocket Trappieskop re-bolt

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NicoVenster
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Pocket Rocket Trappieskop re-bolt

Post by NicoVenster » Mon Mar 05, 2018 11:40 am

Hello, I'll admit I'm kinda in the dark about this so I'd just like to put out some feelers.

Anyone who's climbed Pocket Rocket, would you say it's good enough to re-bolt? The RD says that it's 4 stars and I've heard that the bolts on it look super sketchy.
I don't have any equipment or experience (other than chopping bolts for ARF) but I'd be willing to put the time in.

Any opinions?

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Xenomorph
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Re: Pocket Rocket Trappieskop re-bolt

Post by Xenomorph » Mon Mar 05, 2018 12:10 pm

Hi Nico,
I co-chair the ARF
https://www.facebook.com/groups/ARFinfo/

If justifiable we can do a re-bolt.
But we will need more information about existing bolts and some pictures.
I'll get in touch with the original ascensionist,
Cheers
Cormac

NicoVenster
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Re: Pocket Rocket Trappieskop re-bolt

Post by NicoVenster » Mon Mar 05, 2018 12:56 pm

Hi Cormac, thanks for your reply. Ok cool I will head up when I can this week and take a couple of pics. There's isn't something next to it easy enough to just totter up (I'm aware of) so I can add pics of the first bolt, would that give a fair indication? Otherwise I can make a plan for the other 3 =) the FA was done by a J Orton.

Outthere
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Re: Pocket Rocket Trappieskop re-bolt

Post by Outthere » Tue Mar 06, 2018 8:41 pm

A route by Jayson is bound to be good. Oke opens routes with style. Blaze of Glory crag for example...

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Xenomorph
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Re: Pocket Rocket Trappieskop re-bolt

Post by Xenomorph » Tue Mar 06, 2018 9:10 pm

He says he just opened it. Not sure whom bolted it.

Chris F
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Re: Pocket Rocket Trappieskop re-bolt

Post by Chris F » Wed Mar 07, 2018 12:56 pm

Outthere wrote:
Tue Mar 06, 2018 8:41 pm
A route by Jayson is bound to be good. Oke opens routes with style. Blaze of Glory crag for example...
Wasn't there a John Orton too, who was a prolific new router in the 90s.

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Xenomorph
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Re: Pocket Rocket Trappieskop re-bolt

Post by Xenomorph » Thu Mar 08, 2018 7:26 am

Route was bolted by Malcolm G. with 316 stainless steel and chemical mortar.
If you are still worried about climbing it get it pull tested.
Happy climbing.
Cheers
Cormac

NicoVenster
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Re: Pocket Rocket Trappieskop re-bolt

Post by NicoVenster » Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:20 am

Awesome thank you very much Cormac I appreciate it, at the risk of sounding like a total retard...

Getting them pull tested, does that mean pulling on the hangers to see if they budge? I googled pull testing and got something quite different.

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Pocket Rocket Trappieskop re-bolt

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Thu Mar 08, 2018 1:53 pm

You'd use one of these:

Image
Happy climbing
Nic

MalcolmG
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Re: Pocket Rocket Trappieskop re-bolt

Post by MalcolmG » Thu Mar 08, 2018 2:08 pm

NicoVenster wrote:
Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:20 am
Awesome thank you very much Cormac I appreciate it, at the risk of sounding like a total retard...

Getting them pull tested, does that mean pulling on the hangers to see if they budge? I googled pull testing and got something quite different.
Hi Nico.
I used 316 Stainless steel Eye-bolts, so there is no hanger.
The route was bolted 23 years ago but I recon those bolts are still 100%. Glue ins are sealed and pretty impervious to corrosion.
I recommend you check them out first on abseil. Take some trad gear with you. Jump on one or two then you know there OK!

NicoVenster
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Re: Pocket Rocket Trappieskop re-bolt

Post by NicoVenster » Thu Mar 08, 2018 3:06 pm

Thanks Nic and Malcolm for the clarification, learned something new today :bom:

Now just to go touch it

download.jpg
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XMod
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Re: Pocket Rocket Trappieskop re-bolt

Post by XMod » Sat Mar 10, 2018 3:24 pm

There are some manky shackles hanging off one bolt that need to be cut off (if they are still there), if you have bolt cutters take them with! The bolts themselves are probably still A-OK. Have a critical look from close up at any bolt you are unsure of. If its rusted half through then its junk obviously - But I seriously doubt there is anything other than a superficial layer of rust on those bolts though.

Note to all: If you fail on a route that has glue in bolts don't add a maillon or shackle to get off, this is completely unnecessary and they ended up as rusty pieces of junk hanging of the bolts that are not easy to remove without the roper tools. Just clip in, untie, thread the rope through the bolt and ABSEIL off the route (don't lower off you will trash your rope).

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