Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

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NicoVenster
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Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by NicoVenster » Tue May 08, 2018 8:52 pm

Hello err'body, I have a request for the community and a hook to motivate you to help me out.

The FAVOUR:

I'd like to find out from everyone and anyone, what are the most classic climbs (trad and sport) in South Africa. Anything from 16 upwards and there's no limit to how many you could suggest. Whether you have climbed it or have only heard its myths and legends through tale and song, I'd really like to know some opinions as I mainly climb sport (Cape Town and Boven which still leaves a big blank) and don't know (1) all SA areas and (2) all the Trad classics.

The HOOK:

Below are some examples of boulders that I've painted, I say this because from everyone who replies with their classics, I will select a random user from a hat and they get a custom painting of a boulder/mountain/mountain range of their choice TOTALLY FREE, no charge. :hapban :hapban
I'll leave the thread up and after a month I'll raffle the names, pick one and let you know... that's Friday the 8th of June. If you have any questions just shout I'd be happy to answer them.
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Tsumassa
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by Tsumassa » Tue May 08, 2018 9:48 pm

Power Pidgeon
Mt Everest, Freestate

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MIKESCOTT
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Location: Cape Town

Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by MIKESCOTT » Wed May 09, 2018 7:33 am

Dear Nico,
What a 'classic' question !
You will either be swamped with replies, or everyone will be speechless at where to start.
You could start with the oldest and first recorded rock climb in SA i.e. Nefdt's route on Toverkop, but as with everything, what is your definition so we know where to start.
For popularity and several other criteria, try Klein Winterhoek Frontal at Tulbagh, and Jacobs Ladder on TM.
Regards,
Mike
Mike Scott

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Justin
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by Justin » Wed May 09, 2018 7:53 am

There is a Sport (and bouldering) Hit List on the Wiki --> http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Sport_Hit_List
I've copied it in below:

South Africa's best sport routes, listed by difficulty: [please add to the list]

Barricade 32 at The Wave Cave
Godzilla 31 at God No! Wall, Waterval Boven
L'Abraxsas 30 at Oorlogs Kloof, Montagu
El Nino 30 at Oudtshoorn
Paragon 30 at The Wave Cave
The Activist 30 at the Palace, Bad Kloof, Montagu
Snapdragon 29 at the Superbowl, Waterval Boven
Shouting Stage 29 at the Steeple, Montagu
Phantom of the Opera 28 at the Canyon, Kloof Gorge
Cool Like That 28 at the Scoop, Montagu
A Gift of Wings 28 at The Mine
Bikini Red 27/8 at Waterval Boven
Lotter's Desire 27 at the Superbowl, Waterval Boven
Daze of Thunder 27 at the Worlds Apart, Bad Kloof, Montagu
The Gift 27 at the Restaurant, Waterval Boven
Gecko Blaster 26 at Peers Cave
As the World Disappears 26/7 at Waterval Boven
Wicked and Wild 25 at Hellfire
Red Guitar on Fire 25 at The Mine
Poisson Flambe 25 at The Hole
Swan Lake 25 at The Mine
Jambo 25 at Waterval Boven
Freak On 24 at Waterval Boven
Wildcard 24 at Oorlogs Kloof, Montagu
Cape Fear 24 at The Hole
Madiba 24 at Montagu
Atomic Aardvark 24 at Waterval Boven
Cedar Rouge 23 at Rocklands
Something Esoteric 23 at Waterval Boven
Superfly 23 at Waterval Boven
Lip Service 22/23 at Wolfberg
Orange Plasma 22 at Rocklands
Endless Summer 22 at Waterval Boven
Scorched Earth 22 at Hellfire
Sterling Silver 21 at Silvermine
Me or My Girl 21 at Montagu
Dream Queen 21 at Wellingtons Dome
Trials and Tribulation 20 at Hellfire
Wow Wow Pedal 20 at Wolfberg
Shout at the Devil 20 at Waterval Boven
Little Dutch Boy 19 at Paarl Rocks
Day of the Triffids 19 at Waterval Boven
Sands of Time 17 at Paarl Rocks
Gospel Express 17 at Montagu
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za

NicoVenster
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by NicoVenster » Wed May 09, 2018 8:10 am

Mike thanks for the suggestion, the first recorded climb definitely deserves a spot in there!

And thanks Justin for the sport hit list, this also makes things a bit easier and a better place to start from. I would then like to ask:

1. The trad classics, MIke as you've mentioned Jacob's Ladder, possibly Roulette or Dream Street Rose?

2. If there's a climb that's not on the hit list that you're salivating for or have done that you feel deserves a spot, like e.g. Snake Skin Safari Suit or Ricochet to please post it.

3. If there's e.g. 3 climbs on the list that Justin posted that stand out way above the others. I think then what I'm after beyond the classics are any personal favourites (trad too =))

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Wed May 09, 2018 8:15 am

So I'm a mediocre trad climber at best but here's my list of things I've climbed/want to climb that IMO are classics
(16 is an arbitrary exclusion that leaves off some real easy classics so I'm going to bend that rule now and then)

TM:
Fader's Frontal 16
Bombay Duck 17
Africa Crag 15/12
Africa Arete (I can dream right :) ) 25
Atlantic Crag 18
Double Direct 20
Jacob's Ladder 16
Roulette 21

Wolfberg:
Eclipse 13
After the Gold Rush 15
Quite Something 17
Satisfaction Guaranteed 19
Day of the Jackals 21
Omega 18
Celestial Journey 22
Alone in Space 22
Energy Crisis 20
Old Timer's Disease 21 (much harder for short people)
Knobless Robot 18
Le Grand Gul 17

Tafelberg
Tafelberg Frontal 14
Motorpsychosis 16
Big Groove 20
Black Ice
(And any thing else there graded 3* and above)
Happy climbing
Nic

NicoVenster
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by NicoVenster » Wed May 09, 2018 8:28 am

Hi Nic thanks fro the list!

I realise including below 16 grade climbs for trad is totally fair. In fact Gravy Train in Boven deserves an exception too...

mokganjetsi
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by mokganjetsi » Wed May 09, 2018 8:48 am

Nothing new but my 5 best routes / lines ever:
1. Jacob's Ladder (TM)
2. Comes a Time (Tafelberg)
3. Endless Summer (Boven)
4. Power Pidgeon (Harrismith)
5. Wow Wow Pedal (Sanddrif)

On the bench: Double Direct (TM); Lip Service (Sanddrif); Gospel Express & Me or My Girl (Montagu); Day of the Triffids (Boven); Sterling Silver

Viking
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by Viking » Wed May 09, 2018 8:49 am

So I'm going to be exceptionally biased and narrow minded and focus on some Drakensberg classics.
All Trad and all have big walk ins.
Some I've climbed, some not yet.

Western Injasuthi Triplet
Inner Mnweni Pinnacle
Devil's Tooth
The Column
Monks Cowl
Mponjwane

ComebackKid
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by ComebackKid » Wed May 09, 2018 9:17 am

7 Mouths 8 Tongues at Bonnydoon is amazing. Great climb with an amazing view. It would also make a great painting.

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ShaolinWood
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by ShaolinWood » Wed May 09, 2018 9:25 am

Lekker Nico!

Also would throw in Umkhonto we sizwe and Splinter in the mind's eye at paarl!
Cheers
Gerhard

NicoVenster
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by NicoVenster » Wed May 09, 2018 9:44 am

Thanks Willem!
Awesome Adam, is it in South Africa? If you've got an image of it I'd love to see it =)
Viking your biased opinion is appreciated haha!
Oh yes Gerhard thanks man!

ComebackKid
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by ComebackKid » Wed May 09, 2018 9:49 am

Yip, it's in Cape Town on the mountain above Kalk bay. I do have a pic, email me (adam dot ludford at gmail dot com) and I'll send it to you. You should also check out Inclement Summer and The Pursuit of Happiness at Redhill. Both are awesome and super photogenic, I'll send you pics as well.

NicoVenster
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by NicoVenster » Wed May 09, 2018 10:00 am

Cool thanks Adam, will mail you.

I appreciate your input but for the moment I'm trying to round up only sport and trad climbs. My apologies if the boulder paintings were a bit misleading, The random winner will get a custom rock/crag/mountain/boulder painting and the boulder paintings are just the examples I have. This is all a test run for something bigger and if it works then I'll definitely come back for the boulders too!

ComebackKid
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by ComebackKid » Wed May 09, 2018 10:10 am

Ah right, sport and trad climbs. Guess my boulderer brain missed that. Justin pretty much nailed all the classics in the cape. Behr Hug, Mr Incredible, Up for Grabs in Oudtshoorn are great. All the stuff on the Jimbo (Jeopardy) wall on TM look great and by all accounts are awesome to climb.

NicoVenster
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by NicoVenster » Wed May 09, 2018 10:15 am

Haha no worries =) Thanks for the adds!

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tygereye
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by tygereye » Wed May 09, 2018 10:20 am

Specific routes aside: Do yourself a favour and hop over to Truitjieskraal. The rock formations there are breathtaking!
While you are there, check out King Cobra (24) and Fynhoud (19 - one of the best of its grade).

Then head over to Orange Plasma wall in Rocklands. Orange Plasma (21) is one of the best of its grade, and the setting is spectacular.

Atlantic Crag (18) on Table Mountain also requires mentioning.

AND also worth mentioning...

Cogman's Buttress, Montagu.
Exposure in F Major, Du Toits Kloof
Burnout (21), Hellfire (24) and The Beast (25) - Hellfire

Enjoy!

mokganjetsi
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by mokganjetsi » Wed May 09, 2018 10:52 am

tygereye wrote:
Wed May 09, 2018 10:20 am
Specific routes aside: Do yourself a favour and hop over to Truitjieskraal. The rock formations there are breathtaking!
+1 :thumleft:

For photogenic / picturesque 5-stars:
Red Rain in Wolberg Cracks - amazing colour scheme;
Knobless Robot in same venue as a feature (damn fine climb as well)
The Turret at Turret Peak
Best Exotic Marigold Hotel halfway to Krakadouw (don't know if it's written up)
The Energy Crisis Prow!!! 6 stars imho (with Hilton and Ant's Cold Fusion)
Bonnano Pisano - James Pearson's route up leaning tower at Wolfberg
As the World Disappears in Boven

Argh so many!!

Joshiva
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by Joshiva » Wed May 09, 2018 11:41 am

Awesome images Nico!

I'd like to suggest some routes;
Woodrow Arete - Pillar Box
No More Bells - Chess Pieces
Champs Elysses - Postern Buttress
Africa Bust Up - Africa Ledge
Peaches en Regalia - Houdenbek
Excalibur - Lions Head
Cape Fear - The Hole

:)

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Wed May 09, 2018 12:33 pm

Forgot the Maltese Cross, what a stunning feature
Happy climbing
Nic

rasmus
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by rasmus » Wed May 09, 2018 3:32 pm

As for aesthetics, pretty much nothing beats Cedar Rouge when the sun is going down. Also fantastic jug haul!

NicoVenster
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by NicoVenster » Wed May 09, 2018 6:55 pm

Thanks Josh and rasmus!

Thanks for the update Nic =)

bad
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by bad » Wed May 09, 2018 7:50 pm

Absolutely 100% Maltese Cross
Then Jacob's
Great thread Nico, thanks
You are only as good as your last piece

wildx
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by wildx » Thu May 10, 2018 7:33 am

Spacewalk - Mhlabatini '
cedar rouge - Rocklands
Orange Plasma - Rocklands
Double Direct - Table Mountain

See you in the Cape ;)

shorti
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by shorti » Thu May 10, 2018 10:37 am

The ones that I think will make the best paintings, judging by the paintings you've posted:
As the world disappears
Pillar box
Maltese cross
The column and pyramid
Sentinel
Devil's tooth
The bell
Toverkop
The gun fight (Blyde)

NicoVenster
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by NicoVenster » Thu May 10, 2018 6:24 pm

Awesome thanks shorti, Bernie and bad! :thumleft:

Keith
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by Keith » Fri May 11, 2018 10:03 am

Awesome paintings Nico!

My suggestions:
*The Roulette traverse
*The Roulette overhanging crack
*The "Barber's Chair" belay stance on Cableway Crag
*The dyke feature on Sands of Time
*Madiba at Heaven in Kleurkloof (nice backdrop)
*Crux section of Gift of Wings
*Sterling Silver
*Cape Fear silhoutte with Surfer's Corner backdrop
*Lotter's Desire

Is the plan for a painting with someone climbing? Or just the rock (i.e. like the paintings you've shown)

NicoVenster
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by NicoVenster » Fri May 11, 2018 11:34 am

Thanks a lot Keith, it's funny, we love rocks but sometimes I show someone a painting of a rock and they're like wtf... hahaha

I'll answer in 2 parts:

1. For the random winner it'll be a painting of a rock (whichever type they choose), this may include a climber or not. It depends what they want and what'll work the best.

2. The research of this post is not for a singular artwork, but for something bigger and sneakier that I'm grinding some gears in the background for :alien:

And thanks to everyone so far for taking part, really appreciate it.

RyanKarate
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by RyanKarate » Fri May 11, 2018 12:56 pm

Routes that I’ve found most people in my climbing circle (jhb) talk about -

Sport - Hello Clarice Bronkies
Fight the feeling Harrismith
Time to climb Swinburne
Trad - Hawks Eye Tonquani
Boggle Cedarberg Magaliesberg
Golden balls Cedarberg Magaliesberg

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henkg
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Re: Classic climbs for a climb of your choice

Post by henkg » Tue May 15, 2018 11:36 am

I like your work, so:

Omega and Knobless Robot at Wolfberg
King Kong at Krakadouw
And not is SA, the splitter crack on Spitz SWW route
You may still be here tomorrow, but your dreams may not. Cat Stevens

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