DANGER: Montagu (sharp edge)

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wildx
Posts: 15
Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2017 1:00 pm
Real Name: Bernie Theron

DANGER: Montagu (sharp edge)

Post by wildx » Sat Dec 01, 2018 5:54 pm

Hey Guys/ Girls

Summary:_
Sharp edge, can cut a rope. Not exactly sure which exact edge it was but, easy to spot when hanging_
Route: If I go it will be double (24) - Sloth crag - Badkloof.
Area of concern: 2nd last bolt (just at the cruxy bit)
Conclusion: 1. Dont fall
2. Maybe clean route with some kind of tool
3. Rebolt
4. Long draw(?) Dont think it will work.
BE SAFE :)

Short story:
Climbed If I go it will be double (24) today, lovely route. Typical Montagu route with nice powerful moves and crazy trad style climbing but to my delight much longer than I am used to for Montagu.
I gave it an onsight burn and fell at the (presumable crux) at the last two bolts of the route. While I was hanging there I noticed my ropes sheath was cut open. :cry: I did notice where it most likely got cut (rough patch below the bolt -above the cubby hole-) but was not very focused at that stage on the rock but scrutinizing the core of my rope. So I clipped in hard, made an alpine butterfly over the tear and bailed down... Luckily for me, I saw the tear before I gave the crux another go, I am not sure what would have happened if I fell on the same spot another time. But all safe, and psyched for tomorrow's climbing!

_ Bernie

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