Info on Climbing in Todra Gorge, Morocco

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Info on Climbing in Todra Gorge, Morocco

Post by KaiPF » Wed Dec 05, 2018 10:47 am

Richard Aiken is currently climbing in Todra Gorge Morocco and seeming that beta on the area is sparse, here is his current account on general logistics if you are thinking of going there.

Here is current info on climbing in the Todra Gorge from my current visit on Dec 4 2018.

The only climbing shop is just before entering the main part of the gorge, hard to miss since there is a stuffed dummy hanging outside! On the left side as you enter the gorge. It is open sporadically but Julio, the owner, lives close by and can be phoned. He has the only good route guide which he produces. He bolted many of the routes. He also guides on request. He rents and sells ropes, draws and other gear. Some local people will try to sell photocopied pages but they do not support the climbing community while Julio has paid for many bolts on the routes.

The nearest village is Tinghir, about 20 km away. There is a large market for fruits, veges, meat, eggs, fish... across from the Total gas station. Only Total and Afriquia gas stations accept credit cards.

There are tens of guest houses in the gorge and most cost from 15-25 euros per night, double but there are some for even less. Most include breakfast. The nicest one I found is Secret Garden, owned by Julio and the price is 25 euros. There are also very nice apartments for rent from 30 euros and up but those cannot be booked online.

There is no reason to stay in Tinghir since nice accom and also cheap accom is available in the gorge, IMO.
SIM cards are sold at Casablanca airport and all over the country. 2 euros for 1 week of 2 GB data, 5 euros for 2 weeks of voice + 5 GB data. Note that there is no phone coverage in the gorge and also not in much of the country outside of the cities (my GPS did not work for most of my drive from Casablanca to Tinghir). Internet is poor quality and low bandwidth even in nice hotels except in the big cities.
It is very difficult to find partners here. There are very few climbers (fewer than 20 while I am here and Julio estimates less than 400 per year). Most routes are in the French 6 range. There is multipitch here.

Tap water in the gorge is chlorinated and there is a spring in the gorge too. Vegetables should not be eaten unless cooked or properly washed and tap water in the cities should not be drunk except in places (e.g. hotels) which have their own filters.

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Re: Info on Climbing in Todra Gorge, Morocco

Post by Forket » Wed Dec 05, 2018 7:35 pm

For more info consult the community on FB at Traveling Rock climbers.

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