Unofficial Climbing Meet in Africa Amphitheatre

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Hilton
Posts: 316
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm

Unofficial Climbing Meet in Africa Amphitheatre

Post by Hilton » Wed Mar 06, 2019 12:55 pm

Invitation to all climbing friends:

On Sunday 10 March (the day of the Cycle Tour), Tinie Versfeld, Richard Halsey and I would like to host you to a little unofficial climbing meet. The idea is to climb in Africa Amphitheatre.

Hector Pringle will be down from Joburg to do Horn of Africa with us. Julia Wakeling, Arno van der Heever, Justin Lawson, Megan Beaumont, Marian Penso and various other equally-famous climbers are coming.

We'll queue at 0715 to catch the first cable car up and then do the big Africa Safari rappel down the 250m wall. We'll brew up tea on the Right Face - Arrow Face Traverse. We'll fall off pitches and have a lot of fun, then walk down India Venster. There's something for everybody from Africa Face to Roof of Africa. People can get to know the rap route and see something of the great place. Because of ledges, hard pitches can be avoided and pitches can be mixed and matched. Come and have fun with us!
Last edited by Hilton on Wed Mar 06, 2019 7:55 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Hilton
Posts: 316
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Re: Unofficial Climbing Meet in Africa Amphitheatre

Post by Hilton » Wed Mar 06, 2019 12:56 pm

Topo of the four great routes of the Amphitheatre
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Hilton
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Re: Unofficial Climbing Meet in Africa Amphitheatre

Post by Hilton » Wed Mar 06, 2019 12:59 pm

Bruce Daniel sending the crux pitch of Africa Amphitheatre
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Hilton
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Re: Unofficial Climbing Meet in Africa Amphitheatre

Post by Hilton » Wed Mar 06, 2019 1:00 pm

Tinie Versfeld sending the crazy bottomless chimney out in space on the second ascent of Africa Safari
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Hilton
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Re: Unofficial Climbing Meet in Africa Amphitheatre

Post by Hilton » Wed Mar 06, 2019 1:01 pm

Dave Birkett sending one of the crux pitches on Roof of Africa on the first ascent in January last year
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Hilton
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Re: Unofficial Climbing Meet in Africa Amphitheatre

Post by Hilton » Wed Mar 06, 2019 1:02 pm

Richard Halsey sending the crux pitch of Horn of Africa on the first ascent last November.
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Hilton
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Re: Unofficial Climbing Meet in Africa Amphitheatre

Post by Hilton » Wed Mar 06, 2019 1:04 pm

AFRICA AMPHITHEATRE ‘20’
TABLE MOUNTAIN, CAPE


Approach: The route starts at the top of Africa Ravine. Rappel in from the Right Face – Arrow Face Traverse by doing a 50m abseil off the big cherry tree using the lowest link in the big chain, or hike in.

Start: The route starts a little right of the middle of the amphitheatre at the original big, leaning-over beacon.

Pitch 1 10m 13: Ascend the undercut recess and then onto a long ledge.
Pitch 2 22m 15: Traverse along the ledge for 8m where a high reach over a bulge and a strenuous pull-up enables a move up onto a good ledge. Climb a face for 3m and then move diagonally left into a series of recesses leading to a good stance.
Pitch 3 28m 19: Climb a narrow slit situated directly above the last pitch. Stretch up to a handrail, then a series of tricky moves leads to the overhang above. Move down and traverse 5m to the left to a small ledge. Traverse to the left around the corner and climb up to a bushy stance.
Pitch 4 36m 13: Climb the face above, then climb diagonally left for 28m before moving right to a good stance level with the Right Face – Arrow Face Traverse.
Pitch 5 18m 13: Climb a crack to the right for 8m and continue up a recess to a stance at the top of the large blocks, which form the corridor to the Right Face – Arrow Face Traverse.
Pitch 6 28m 18: Step off the right hand side of the stance and climb the face for 9m to a handrail. Traverse to the left for 8m and move up past a narrow crack. Continue up to a narrow stance.
Pitch 7 9m 10: Climb diagonally up to the right to a small stance under a small overhang.
Pitch 8 25m 20: Traverse 5m to the left and move up onto a smooth saucer-shaped face. Climb up past a peg and then do a few pull-ups to a high rail. Rail right to a stance.
Pitch 9 18m 17: Step out onto the nose to the right and climb the crack above. Balance up to a handrail and move onto a corner, bearing left to a large cave-like stance.
Pitch 10 11m 17: About 4m to the right of where the cave peters out, reach up through the overhang and pull up onto the face above. Climb the face to a stance on the left.
Pitch 11 9m 14: Climb the recess, then traverse out to the left on an extremely exposed nose to a good stance on the tip of the overhang.
Pitch 12 30m 13: Move to the left and ascend the face to a large ledge. Traverse to the left along the ledge for 70m to 80m. The next pitch continues up a corner directly below a large overhanging corner immediately to the left of Africa Face and Africa Sideburn.
Pitch 13 18m 14: Ascend the face slightly to the right of the corner ridge and to the left of the bushy recess containing Africa Sideburn. Climb to a stance below the large overhang.
Pitch 14 12m 12: Traverse left and then continue past an awkward block, moving down to a good stance.
Pitch 15 6m 13: Climb directly upwards, avoiding loose flakes, to a stance on the left.
Pitch 16 12m 20: Traverse to the right to an undercut open book recess. Climb this until it is possible to move to the right to a good stance. [Variation: 12m 16: Traverse to the right at the bottom of the open-book recess. Continue up the recess to a good stance]
Pitch 17 35m 14: Climb the overhanging crack slightly to the right and above the last pitch. After 8m ascend the face above more or less diagonally to the right. The last 9m are up a series of blocks.
Pitch 18 18m 16: Climb the corner to the left with a tricky take-off and up to the large ledge above.

Descent: Cable car or India Venster walk.

First ascent: Keith Fletcher, Rick Williams, Don Hartley, 1967
First free ascent: Robin Barley, Tony Barley, Don Hartley

Hilton
Posts: 316
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Re: Unofficial Climbing Meet in Africa Amphitheatre

Post by Hilton » Wed Mar 06, 2019 1:05 pm

AFRICA SAFARI ‘22’
TABLE MOUNTAIN, CAPE
HILTON DAVIES


Approach: The route starts at the top of Africa Ravine. Rappel in from the Right Face – Arrow Face Traverse by doing a 50m abseil off the big cherry tree using the lowest link in the big chain, or hike in.

Start: The route starts in the middle of the amphitheatre directly below the cherry tree 50m above.

Pitch 1 20m 21: Climb the break in the centre of the wall to a large ledge;
Pitch 2 30m 20: Climb the short wall above, and to through the roof. Continue up clean rock and move slightly right at a small overhang. Pull through and go diagonally left to the cherry tree;
Pitch 3 12m 12: Climb up behind the tree then out right and up to get on top of the massive rock that forms the outside of the Right Face-Arrow Face Traverse. Go to the tip of the rock, known as the Anvil;
Pitch 4 20m 22: Step off the tip of the Anvil and rail 1m left then head up. Continue up the slab above to a thin crack/break above a small overlap. Up this to a higher rail to rest on the right under another small overhang. Move up the wall on the left to a small ledge;
Pitch 5 15m 22: Climb straight up to a corner leading to the roof. Move left until an undercling and footholds enable one to reach above the overhang. Move up the wall on the left to a ledge. Walk 15m left to a corner leading to a rail through the roof:
Pitch 6 30m 22: Climb up and left to the blunt arête. Go straight up this and continue in a straight line to a chain on a big block in the middle of a bushy ledge;
Pitch 7 40m 22: Five metres to the left is a white arête. Climb up on pockets, then up the break above tending left to the obvious huge undercut chimney. Puzzle this out and finish at a chain above. Go up 5m to a ledge then walk to the left for 15m to the juggy face;
Pitch 8 20m 15: Climb the juggy wall to the top.


Descent: Cable car or India Venster walk.

First ascent: Tinie Versfeld and Dave Birkett, 13 December 2014

Hilton
Posts: 316
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm

Re: Unofficial Climbing Meet in Africa Amphitheatre

Post by Hilton » Wed Mar 06, 2019 1:05 pm

HORN OF AFRICA ‘26’
TABLE MOUNTAIN, CAPE
HILTON DAVIES


Approach: The route starts at the top of Africa Ravine. Rappel in from the Right Face – Arrow Face Traverse by doing a 50m abseil off the big cherry tree using the lowest link in the big chain, or hike in.

Start: The route starts at the far left of the amphitheatre on clean white rock below the big overhangs 60m above. A few metres right from the tree in the very corner find a cairn below a clean vertical crack.

Pitch 1 42m 20: Climb the crack for 10 metres to a ledge. Step right and climb the big, thin flake for a few metres. Start up leftwards on the pocketed brown wall then angle to the right. Step around into a corner and head up for a few metres. Climb the 10m face on the right up to a good ledge. Walk out right and stance at the end;
Pitch 2 27m 16: Go up for a few metres then angle up rightwards for 10m then go straight up a big corner to stance on the bushy Right Face – Arrow Face Traverse. Walk left (east) for 15m to just beyond a big tree. Stance at the big detached block beneath an overhang;
Pitch 3 27m 20: Stand on the block to place gear at full stretch in the thin horizontal rail. Rail to the right for a couple of metres then crank hard to get onto the ledge. Climb up on the left for a few metres to a ledge. Climb the slab close to the right end up to a small ledge. Climb the next slab in the middle up to a big ledge;
Pitch 4 27m 22: Start up the appealing corner on the left and get up into a big groove. Continue straight up and right up laybacks for 10m to a small roof. Climb around the roof on the left. Climb 10m up cracks and a pod to reach a big ledge. Walk a few metres left to stance at the huge block;
Pitch 5 15m 20: Start in the chamber behind the huge block, and scramble up left to the base of a crack system . Follow this for a few meters and pull up and left to a little platform. Pull onto the face on edges and up left to top of the crack taken by Kape Moss pitch 3. Traverse right on the sloping ledge to a stance below a very thin crack in the face over the roof;
Pitch 6 25m 26: Crank over the first roof by the thin crack to a shelf below the second bigger roof. Rail right to below the steep bottomless corner at the right side of the roof above. Get a few micro/small wire placements in the horizontal seam at the base of the corner before launching into the crux sequence. Hard moves past a narrow, vertical finger slot lead to a good rail at the next overlap. Traverse left until the end of the rail, below a bulging section. Pull through and step left on the face above. Continue straight up to a final rail, step 1m left and then up onto the slab that is followed to the bivvy ledge. Walk a few meters left to a split block below a break in the low overhang. (Maybe 27+ for onsight);
Pitch 7 20m 19: Pull through the low overhang onto the white face and head straight up to the left side of a small roof in the middle of the face. Pull through and step right to above the roof and tend right for two or three metres. Continue up through at a break and then left to stance below a large corner (taken by Africa Amphitheatre);
Pitch 8 30m 20: Climb over some blocks to the white face that forms the left side of the huge corner. Head straight up the middle of the face. Crank off the 4 or 5 horizontal ripples then run it out until the rail. The holds are positive but don’t fall off - that landing would be bad. At the roof move left to the break through the roof on the left side, then up the ramp to the left and easy face to the ledge;
Pitch 9 20m 15: Climb the juggy wall on the left to the top.

Descent: Cable car or India Venster walk.

Notes: Double rack of cams, full set of wires including micros and 50m ropes are recommended. The crux pitch could be done with a single point of aid at about 23 A1. A free link-up at grade 22 would be to skip the crux pitch by moving from Pitch 5 into the top part of Kape Moss pitch 3 until the Bivvy Ledge.

First ascent: Richard Halsey and Hilton Davies, 25 November 2018 (Anthony Hall on first two pitches in 2016)

Hilton
Posts: 316
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm

Re: Unofficial Climbing Meet in Africa Amphitheatre

Post by Hilton » Wed Mar 06, 2019 1:06 pm

ROOF OF AFRICA ‘28’
TABLE MOUNTAIN, CAPE
HILTON DAVIES


Approach: The route starts at the top of Africa Ravine. Rappel in from the Right Face – Arrow Face Traverse by doing a 50m abseil off the big cherry tree using the lowest link in the big chain, or hike in.

Start: The route starts in the middle of the amphitheatre. There are two table top-sized slabs of rock lying at a diagonal angle against the rockface. This route begins up the right hand (western) one. Scramble up the slab and go right a metre or two on the ledge to the first break consisting of a vertical crack.

Pitch 1 20m 21: Climb the crack for a few metres. Step right and climb up to the roof. Rail left then go up to a big pocket on the left. Reach up to a rail and traverse right above the roof. Climb up to intersect the next roof on its left. Go up the corner then step out right onto the arête. Continue up to the big bushy ledge to stance where Pitch 2 directly begins up the whitish wall above;
Pitch 2 40m 23: Start up the white wall using little rails and pockets to reach a small rail 4m up. Rail right for 2m then climb a crack with a piton. Head up and leftwards over a couple of little ledges. On a ledge walk left along a solid rock razor. At the end climb up leftwards towards a roof. Climb through the roof and continue up to the Right Face – Arrow Face Traverse. Scramble up the back of the Breakfast Rock to stance on top;
Pitch 3 25m 26: At the entrance to the tunnel scramble up onto the rock shelf on the left. Stand on a jammed flake and climb up to the roof. Rail left for 8m (Camalot #3 and #4). At the horn lean out and climb up at a piton to reach the roof above. Rail right for a metre or two then climb a flake and a wall to reach a big rail. Continue up a corner to exit on the left and climb up to a good rail and ledge. (The Right Face Arrow Face Pitch);
Pitch 4 30m 23: Walk 3m right then go up the first break. Climb up to the corner that goes through the small roof. Climb the corner and the arête to the right for a couple of metres. Step across to the left and rail out for 3m. Pull up into the Post Box then up to a thin rail above it with a piton. From the piton go 1m right and climb the steep edge to a little ledge. Go diagonally up leftwards for some way to reach a hanging stance with a piton below the hanging corners.
Pitch 5 30m 23: Climb the hanging corners angling up leftwards. Break through the roof at the left end and climb the wall to a big ledge. Bring the party up then walk 10m up and over to the left and around the corner (passing Africa Safari’s arête) to make a stance directly below the big crack through the huge dimpled roof.
Pitch 6 35m 28: Climb up to the roof then hang upside down to climb the crack to the lip and then 2m up the wall to the first rail. Traverse a long way left and upwards to a break where you start up left then at a roof go a little right and up a finger crack and up to a roof with a good rail. Rail left to the little Diving Board, climb up onto this horizontally wedged flake without pulling it off, and continue straight up to the big camping ledge.
Pitch 7 25m 22: Step off the big flat rock and pull up to get onto a semi-sitting ledge. Go a metre or two to the right to the obvious post box for a Camalot #2. Climb the break up on the left to get onto the wall. Go up and left to the attractive white wall. Climb the blunt arête and head up to a good ledge;
Pitch 8 15m 23: Lead off to the right and climb the crack through the enormous roof. Go up the corner then exit left onto a small stance;
Pitch 9 15m 28: Go up right into the crawling ledge. Climb the underside of the biggest part of the roof to get to the pointy tip. Get onto the wall and climb the arête and the wall to the left to get up to a small ledge and stance. Bring the party up then scramble and then walk left along the ledge. Scramble up to the obvious rock platform below the big arête to stance;
Pitch 10 20m 20: From the platform pull up the steep arête and continue up to the roof. Go left for a few metres to a break through the small roof. Continue directly up to the top.

Descent: Cable car or India Venster walk.

First ascent: Tinie Versfeld, Dave Birkett and Hilton Davies, 28-29 January 2018

Hilton
Posts: 316
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm

Re: Unofficial Climbing Meet in Africa Amphitheatre

Post by Hilton » Wed Mar 06, 2019 1:14 pm

Kape Moss (22) ***
A direct line, with interesting pitches and the occasional run out. With some more cleaning it will be a four star route.
Access
Walk along the Right Face Arrow Face traverse. On the climbers left of the tunnels is a low roof ~15m up. Higher up, there is a long roof about 30m up. Start ~20m to the left of the left end of this higher roof, at a point below an off width crack 20m above the path. Cairn next to the path at the base of climb.
Pitch 1. 25m (17)
Follow a crack and short face to reach a small ledge. Continue up the face to the left of a small corner to a narrow chimney with chimney with an arête on the right side. Follow this to the off width that was visible from the ground. Continue up to the ledge with a large sickle shaped rock to belay on.
Pitch 2. 25m (16)
Climb the corner above and then a layback crack to a ledge. Head slightly left on a face and then easily up to a wide ledge. Walk ~6m right to the base of a clean corner crack.
Pitch 3. 30m (22)
Climb the corner and finger crack to a ledge. Continue up the short right-arching crack until able to pull through the steep left wall to good holds below the left end of the roof. Traverse left over a vegetated ledge and onto a large block. Move up and right to an easy angled ramp. Head straight up to a small grassy ledge (this section is easy but a bit run out with one good rail for gear about 2m from the ledge).
Pitch 4. 15m (17)
Traverse left and then up to a long, wide edge. Continue left along this until a long pull gains good holds above, which are followed straight up to broad ledge (sparse gear). Walk right ~5m to a break in the lower overhang that runs across the back of the ledge.
Pitch 5. 20m (17)
Pull up to a wide rail and reach over the roof to good holds. Traverse left ~3m and the straight up until able to move easily left onto the big ledge with a tree at the base of a wide chimney.
Pitch 6. 35m (21)
To the right of the wide chimney is a left leaning ramp with good holds, which is slightly separate from the face to the right. Follow the ramp for a few meters and step right onto a narrow ledge. Head straight up the edges on the face above to the next horizontal break. Continue straight up to a large block under the roof. Step right and up to pass the roof, then go diagonally left up a low angle slab to some large pocket-type features. From here crank up until able to reach good holds above the slopers. Continue easily up the face to the next ledge at a point just left of the bushes. Stance directly below the roof crack above.
[An alternate pitch (20) that is slightly easier, but trickier with gear traverses right on the narrow ledge 5 meters up and over a slanted,squeeze type feature to a huge jug. Pull up to a smooth ledge with succulents growing at the back (but avoid the dangerous loose boulder to the left). Pull up and right, and then slightly back left to the low angle slab just over the roof and continue as per the direct pitch] Scramble right and up to a small platform below the final face.
Pitch 7. 25m (15)
Climb the left most side of the juggy face above to the top
Notes. - A #4 Camalot may be useful on pitches 3 and 5, but is not essential. - An alternative finish is to blast straight through the roof crack at the top of pitch 6. This was opened in 2012 as the stand alone pitch called No Horizon (~24)
FA: R. Halsey & T. Iliev (Feb 2018)

Hilton
Posts: 316
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm

Re: Unofficial Climbing Meet in Africa Amphitheatre

Post by Hilton » Wed Mar 06, 2019 1:15 pm

Photo topo of Kape Moss
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Hilton
Posts: 316
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm

Re: Unofficial Climbing Meet in Africa Amphitheatre

Post by Hilton » Fri Mar 08, 2019 12:01 pm

Africa Face (F2)

Although it wanders about and is scruffy in places, this route is one of the classic climbs on Table Mountain.
Access:
Get to the top of Africa Ravine. To the right of centre the rock becomes more broken up and the angle less steep. The route starts a few metres lower down than the centre of the amphitheatre, and before the rock face curls outwards.
Lower Section: From Africa Ravine
Pitch 1. D
Climb to a narrow cave slit to belay.
Pitch 2. 12m E3
Pull through over the slit onto the face above using tiny toe holds. Climb up to a big ledge running across to the right to a small tree growing behind a block.
Pitch 3. 20m F1
The Strait-Jacket Pitch. From the block step onto the face at the corner which is loose and rotten below the overhang. A wide step left past a big loose flake positions one at the left end of the narrow overhang, looking up a crack. Step up into the crack until possible to brace your back on the end of the overhang. Continue up to a stance.
Pitch 4. 12m F2
At the right hand end of the narrow ledge running out towards Table Bay, climb onto the face to where a narrow crack starts. Move up this crack which has a very difficult move at the top, to stand on a tiny platform. Step right and climb up to the path for the Right Face – Arrow Face Traverse. Follow the path towards the cable station for about 50m.
Pitch 5. 20m
Walk to where a long horizontal cave is seen about 4m above the slope. Climb up to the cave, traverse inside it to reach a nose, then head up 10m of face climbing to reach Africa Ledge. Walk up and left on Africa Ledge to aim for the easy, broken little faces and ledges to the left of the big overhangs.
Middle Section: from Africa Ledge
Pitch 6. 12m E1
About 10m left of the big overhang climb the face to the ledge above to the left of a big pillar.
Pitch 7.
Traverse left and scramble through two short rock bands to a ledge which ends under an overhang.
Pitch 8. 12m E2
Climb up to the overhang, traverse right and then continue up to the ledge above. As this pitch is rather bushy, it is now usual to do a variation to the right. Climb up to a short recess of red rock to below an overhang. Swing left and up to step onto a sloping ledge and continue to a good stance.
Walk a long way to the left to the base of an enormous chimney on the left side of Africa Nose.
Upper Section: above level of Upper Africa Ledge
Pitch 9. 25m E3
Bridge up the initial 2m then move into the chimney and climb the crack and the wall on the left.
Pitch 10. 25m D
Climb the deep crack at the back of the chimney on the right. Climb over a chockstone and move out left towards a good platform.
Pitch 11. 40m E1
From the stance move around left on the ledge level with the platform onto the face to an exposed position. Continue traversing for about 6m and then move up using a bollard, and over a smooth sloping section to the top of a second bollard. Continue up for a short distance and then climb diagonally right towards the chimney. Continue straight up on large holds for the final 10m on the left hand side of the chimney to a stance under the overhangs.
Pitch 12. 50m D
Traverse left until the end of the overhang then move up and continue along to the extreme left had end of the ledge.
Pitch 13. 15m E2
Move up and out left from below the small overhang and continue up the crack to a ledge. Walk left to the base of an easy crack.
Pitch 14. 18m D
Follow the crack to the summit.

First Ascent: Bill Cobern, Florence Humphries, Frank Humphries and AP Stanford, 9 August 1914

Hilton
Posts: 316
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Re: Unofficial Climbing Meet in Africa Amphitheatre

Post by Hilton » Fri Mar 08, 2019 12:02 pm

Africa Face topo
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Hilton
Posts: 316
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm

Re: Unofficial Climbing Meet in Africa Amphitheatre

Post by Hilton » Fri Mar 08, 2019 12:25 pm

Africa Face topo
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