The talking flake on Africa Arete

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TheBulgarian
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri May 05, 2017 8:01 am

The talking flake on Africa Arete

Post by TheBulgarian » Mon Apr 15, 2019 5:07 pm

A warning to whom ever leads up Africa Arete pitch 2 on Table Mountain upper Africa Amphitheater. The flake that was once cemented in, is on the verge of pealing off. On pitch 2 after the horny flake moves off the stance and as you turn the left corner of the Arete the flake above your head is screeching to be pulled off. It is a highly dangerous position especially for the belayer below.
# Tip 1: think light thoughts
#Tip 2: Belayer make like a skilpad and tuck your head under, decappitation may be eminent. Especially if lying on your back.
# Tip 3: When arriving at the death flake, There’s not much gear between climber and belayer except two tiny nuts so bring your biggest 🥜
Oh yah goodluck chaina! 💪🏼 (looking forward to a new classic on TM)

Brussel
Posts: 262
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

Re: The talking flake on Africa Arete

Post by Brussel » Mon Apr 15, 2019 6:44 pm

When I followed you up it the piece you put behind it fell out when I leaned on the flake as it flexes so much. There is evidently a better piece in a pocket in the face right of the flake...if you pull the flake before you get the piece in you are going to take a looooooooong winger

crigs
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2014 9:52 am

Re: The talking flake on Africa Arete

Post by crigs » Mon Apr 15, 2019 8:38 pm

Don't climb immediately after rain, the rock is still saturated and becomes a lot more brittle. Especially flakes. Ask Eric, he knows. :thumright #Excalibur

mokganjetsi
Posts: 1692
Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm
Real Name: Willem Boshoff
Location: Cape Town

Re: The talking flake on Africa Arete

Post by mokganjetsi » Tue Apr 16, 2019 9:50 am

interesting ethical poser: does the flake get cemented (or bolted :shock: ) back in? or do we leave a real hazard in place there?
Thinking of the guillotine-flake on Tinie's 21 at the Unmentionable Place - properly glued in and makes for a much nicer (and safer) climb....

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