WARNING - Dangerous Glue in Bolts at Paarl Rocks

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Stu
Posts: 598
Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 7:13 pm

WARNING - Dangerous Glue in Bolts at Paarl Rocks

Post by Stu » Sun May 19, 2019 4:14 am

Hi all,

Just a warning to climbers that there are a set of anchors on The Scorched Earth Direct's (it's a project that was being bolted) 5th pitch stance that are very dangerous. Something went wrong with the mixing of the glue and they never set properly. Someone should remove them by pulling them out or cutting them off as it would be terrible if someone mistook them for reliable anchors.

I'm not sure why I never continued straight up from the second pitch when bolting the original, I guess the rock just looked better over on the right, but looking back the direct was definitely the way to go.

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Wes
Posts: 327
Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:25 pm
Real Name: Wesley

Re: WARNING - Dangerous Glue in Bolts at Paarl Rocks

Post by Wes » Mon May 20, 2019 2:12 pm

Hi Stu.

Thanks for reporting this. How can you tell there is something wrong? Are they loose/spinning in the hole? Do you have any pictures?

Andy Davies
Posts: 356
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 12:37 pm

Re: WARNING - Dangerous Glue in Bolts at Paarl Rocks

Post by Andy Davies » Tue May 21, 2019 4:32 pm

Hey Stu - assuming you placed the bolts, may I suggest you go and remove them?
AndyDavies

Stu
Posts: 598
Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 7:13 pm

Re: WARNING - Dangerous Glue in Bolts at Paarl Rocks

Post by Stu » Wed May 22, 2019 12:12 am

Wes wrote:
Mon May 20, 2019 2:12 pm
Hi Stu.

Thanks for reporting this. How can you tell there is something wrong? Are they loose/spinning in the hole? Do you have any pictures?
They seem loose, from what I remember.
Andy Davies wrote:
Tue May 21, 2019 4:32 pm
Hey Stu - assuming you placed the bolts, may I suggest you go and remove them?
I would but I've been out of the game for ages now and I'm highly unfit at the moment, don't see it happening any time soon unfortunately.

I thought maybe someone could chop the bolts and continue bolting the direct version to The Scorched Earth as I've abandoned it - I've placed quite a few bolts for the third pitch and drilled all the holes holes already for the first pitch. The first pitch takes the left hand part of the quartz dyke that the original route follows (then shares the second pitch). I believe the first pitch was called Chemicals in the Grass in the Paarl Rocks guide. It never got opened, not sure how it snuck into the guide as having been opened. So it's basically an entire new route apart from the second pitch.

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