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 Post subject: Trad in Port St Johns?
PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:46 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 9:52 am
Posts: 34
Location: Joburg
We are going on a bit of a road trip in December and will be spending a couple of days in Port St Johns.
It's the one area that we will be passing through that we can't find any climbing info on.
Does anyone know if there is any trad climbing in the area? Or should we just resign ourselves to spending our time in Port St Johns as rest days?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 10:15 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2006 8:36 am
Posts: 88
There are 2 big cliffs at Port St Johns, that just scream \"CLIMB MEEEEE\"
I did a little digging in old MCSA jounals a few years back, and could not find anything documented. I could have just missed it though.

If you are trading, I suggest pioneering your own routes. Just let us know if it was good, so we can plan our own trips there.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 5:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2006 8:55 am
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Hey guys I know for a fact there is some serious sea cliffs north west of Port St Johns near Lusikisiki... apparently its about an hour walk in but its well worth it - Good Rock +-100m high and superb waterfalls!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 8:00 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:09 am
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There is a huge amount of rock at Frazer Gorge & Magwa Falls. Magwa Falls is awesome. Worth the drive just to have a look see. Don't know of any climbing there though. Keith James has climbed a PSJohns. but I don't know of any discriptions that are avalible. There are some where in MCSA journals discriptions for routes on Execution Hill, just outside PSJohns


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 Post subject: Ta
PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 7:03 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 9:52 am
Posts: 34
Location: Joburg
Cool, thanks for the info.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 9:34 am 
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Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 1:17 pm
Posts: 11
Location: Pretoria
I have been to PSJ a number of times, mainly to surf but I took a good look at the cliffs there for potential routes.
As you come into PSJ you will notice two distinct cliff faces on either side of the road. Both have very different features and access. The right hand cliff, which is closer to the road is very steep and broken with dense bush at the base. There are some really impressive roofs on the wall with hard climbing but there are some easier looking lines to the right of the central wall and further up to the left.
My best bet would be to head over to the cliffs on the left hand side of the gorge which over-look the river mouth. From what I remember there is a dirt road which heads up to the top of the hill, there are radio towers on the top, so access can be gained from this. This cliff is characterised by more slabby, grey looking rock that might reveal some good cliimbing. The bush also does not appear as dense.

Enjoy your trip down there and take care on the beaches as theiving locals can be a problem.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 1:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2005 3:32 pm
Posts: 67
Thanks lofty!

Anyone got any opinions on the climbing at Port Edwards? Also on our path this hols. Heard there may be sport and trad thereabouts, but havent't seen an RD in my snuffling on the net...

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 Post subject: port st.johns
PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 9:45 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:48 am
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plenty of tradding on both heads: info on right-hand heads in mcsa jornals of the late 70's. otherwise just do it. i've opened a number of routes of between grades 17 and 20 (from 1-5 pitches) on the right-hand head which is easily accessed by driving up to the top (which is an airfield - accessed from within the town).

also, some deep-water soloing between 2nd and 3rd beach (rising traverse, basically, with grade options, on a west facing wall above a deep gulley) and on a north-facing wall above a gulley to the west of 3rd beach - obvious, if you're looking for it.

As one of the previous respondents suggested, there's good climbing on \"Waterfall Bluff\" , east of Mboyti, with excellent single pitch tradding in the gorge above the main waterfall, and plenty of bouldering in any of the gullleys above the other waterfalls.

Let's not forget the excellent climbing (of between 15 and 50 metres) in the vicinity of the \"Coffee Shack\" (backpackers lodge ib coffee bay) abseil site between Coffee bay and Hole-in-the-wall

basically, all these areas, like most of the eastern cape, is brsitling with climbable rock.


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