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 Post subject: Trad climbing
PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2005 9:52 am 
I have been climbing sport routes for a while, on and off for 10 years or so. Lately have been doing the multi-pitch stuff and really enjoyed it. It seems that I am being pushed (or pulled) towards starting trad.
Basically my question is: how safe is trad really?
And is it worth it?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2005 11:12 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Posts: 3031
Location: Montagu
Real Name: Justin Lawson
It’s definitely worth it! Regarding safety, its as safe as you make it, you're the one putting the gear in. You also don’t have to worry about bolts pulling out :)
Having a partner who knows your style of climbing and what to do in a situation also adds to the safety. Go climb easier routes on Table Mountain for practise and fun.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2005 9:37 am 
I have only been climbing for about two years. I was climbing sport routes and felt the pull towards trad climbing. I read loads of books on trad and then went on a course with Cape Town School of Mountaineering. (http://www.climbing.co.za/dirTraining.asp) The course was really good because it just upped my confidence. It makes you feel a bit better about the gear you are placing when you have someone who knows what they are doing check how you place protection. Richard also covered some stuff on self rescue which is a bit difficult to learn by yourself from books. It makes much more sense when you dangle your partner over the ledge and learn how to safely hoist them. I agree with Justin, trad is as safe as you make it. Stuff happens on the mountains and you can't plan for everything, but you can learn how to minimise the risks. Sport is nice for pushing your limits, trad is great for just being outdoors and enjoying the mountain. Getting into trad is definitely worth it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2005 2:12 pm 
I have been climbing trad for 9 years and have never had a bad injusry (although I've seen some bad accidents). I've fallen many times, but the situation has never been out of control. I've only started clipping bolts in the last few years, and I still often feel safer on a trad route than on bolts. Trad is definately worth it. Pushing grade on trad is so much more satisfying than on sport. Obviously you need to choose your hard routes wisely, but there are plenty of well protected routes out there. For all my hard trad leads I can remember who I was climbing with, what the weather was like, how I was feeling etc. For hard sport all I can remember is that I climbed a certain route, but the details are lost. For me, trad is a heightened experience, and it definately takes you to the coolest spots. If you're gonna climb trad, dont follow the old style mantra of \"the leader never falls\". Modern gear is awesome, so practice falling and learn to trust your placements. If you know your gear is good, go for the hard move. Its worth it


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 Post subject: worth it.
PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2005 6:35 pm 
you get to some piece of rock in the midle of nowhere (eastern cape),now one has been there for 15 years, find a crack rack up and climb. Trad is freedom. Little beats the feeling of onsighting a new route. It may only be a 19 in my case but its worth it. you're also less likely to be home saterday with tendinitus from working \"hard\" sport climbing.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 9:48 am 
The best part about trad climbing is getting off the battered track to areas that are not frequented.

AND the further from bolts you go the less chance of seeing sport climbers.


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 Post subject: trad route guides
PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2005 8:20 am 
hi can anyone advise about route guides for trad climbing in the Western Cape. I am newish to Cape and there seems to be no route guides.


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