climbing for quite some time

Let everyone know about any suspect/dodgy/misplaced bolts to be renewed or avoided.
nisitiya
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2013 8:57 am

climbing for quite some time

Postby nisitiya » Sun Oct 06, 2013 11:33 am

I've been climbing for quite some time, and while I've taken a break for the past few years, as I'm stepping back in I want to be absolutely sure safety is first. Saturday I'm climbing at a spot that has plenty of thick trees to anchor off of, but the trees are a good 10-20 feet from the edge of the cliff. I have plenty of webbing, and always have at least 3 anchors, my question is how should I top-rope this? Obviously I don't want the rope to be sliding across the edge while a climber is on-belay. Should I have the webbing anchors run all the way to the edge of the cliff?
Last edited by nisitiya on Wed Oct 09, 2013 8:45 am, edited 1 time in total.

Nic Le Maitre
Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Location: Stellenbosch

Re: climbing for quite some time

Postby Nic Le Maitre » Sun Oct 06, 2013 7:18 pm

Ideally your top anchors should be over the top of the cliff and slightly down the face, this will reduce rope drag to a minimum. If the edge is particularly rough consider placing a groundsheet/tarp under the webbing on the edge to protect it, or use rope protectors like this:
Image
Happy climbing
Nic

deSouzaFrank
Posts: 88
Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:26 pm
Real Name: Frank de Souza
Location: Middelburg
Contact:

Re: climbing for quite some time

Postby deSouzaFrank » Sun Oct 06, 2013 7:35 pm

I thread the rope or webbing, depending on scenario, through a piece of fireman's hose, at the parts where the webbing or rope goes over the edge. This will protect the webbing or rope from the cliff edge. I hand stitched some cord to them so that I could tie them down or onto something so they dont move up or down with the rope but rather stay still with the rope running through them. Before I got hold of a fireman's hose I use to just stake down an old piece of carpet . But it was honestly just a pain in the arse, carrying it around and trying to keep it place if you cant stake it down.
Frank
5-10 pairs of miss matched hand me downs
Mixed draws
Black rope

wravenant
Posts: 47
Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2011 7:41 pm
Real Name: Willem Avenant
Location: Cape Town

Re: climbing for quite some time

Postby wravenant » Sun Oct 06, 2013 7:46 pm

I agree with Nic, you want it just over the edge. Imagine where you will place the hangers on a sport route.

Remember to equalise the 3 points and make sure the you use a locking karabiner that the rope runs through.

The rope protector is nice to have.

Chris F
Posts: 633
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Re: climbing for quite some time

Postby Chris F » Mon Oct 07, 2013 11:40 am

Can someone tie into the anchors and belay from the top, much better to ensure there's no rope damage, if this is an option.

wqasderaa
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri May 08, 2015 9:36 am
Real Name: ffffffffff

Re: climbing for quite some time

Postby wqasderaa » Fri May 08, 2015 9:44 am

We're heading up to Swinburne this weekend. The last time we were there, there was a hanger removed from the aid pitch on Long Bolt To Freedom. Anyone know if this has been replaced? I'll be taking a hanger along just in case anyway.

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Last edited by wqasderaa on Thu Jun 11, 2015 2:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Exploratio
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2014 5:37 pm
Real Name: Exploratio

Re: climbing for quite some time

Postby Exploratio » Fri May 08, 2015 10:21 am

Did long bolt to freedom last year and it didn't seem like any of the anchors were missing


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