Slangolie Frontal

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Arnoster
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Slangolie Frontal

Post by Arnoster » Thu Aug 24, 2006 12:42 pm

Anybody have a decent route description for Slangolie Frontal, or know where I could get one?
“ Behold, I lay in Zion
A chief cornerstone, elect, precious,
And he who believes on Him will by no means be put to shame.”

guest
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Post by guest » Thu Aug 24, 2006 2:47 pm

Everyone has the right to opinions without interference and to seek, receive and impart information and ideas through any media and regardless of frontiers.
Last edited by guest on Mon Nov 13, 2006 8:45 am, edited 1 time in total.

Arnoster
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Location: cape town

Post by Arnoster » Thu Aug 24, 2006 3:59 pm

Hahaha!! Classic! It was a pleasure just reading that :lol: Thanx for the info bro. I'll definitiely give them a shout. God bless
“ Behold, I lay in Zion
A chief cornerstone, elect, precious,
And he who believes on Him will by no means be put to shame.”

Stu
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Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 7:13 pm

Post by Stu » Thu Aug 24, 2006 5:13 pm

After my experiences and reading this I have just realized that \"a day out in SA doing some of our lovely country routes\", in fact means \"a disorientated confusing day out in hell with dodgy gear and bloody scraped legs where you will be lucky to come back alive\".
Ya gotta love it though!

Arnoster
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Post by Arnoster » Thu Aug 24, 2006 5:28 pm

This is Africa baby! Or something like that. Was discussing a similar topic with a friend a while back and we came to the conclusion that because we have no great civil war or some \"groot trek\" which supplies it's natural amount of adversity which in turn gives us the character to deal with life itself, we feel the need to mission up a mountain with a very large chance of coming home as Stu said : Disorientated, confused and scraped to a bloody mess. Just seems to put everything in perspective :D Humans... :?

Grigri
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Post by Grigri » Thu Aug 24, 2006 5:50 pm

I was with Ross on the ascent used to write the topo for SA Mountainmag. As far as I know his description is the only modern one of the route. He no longer works for the mag, your best bet is to hunt down the issue that has the route description in. The route we took (right of the arete proper to start with, traversing onto it properly higher up) is the best line. The true arete lower down looked pretty awful.

The route itself is a country route classic! It has a really wild feel as you walk in leaving the houses behind. Its hard to believe that you are still in a city at all! Be prepared for the odd section of dodgey rock (avoidable) and an interesting experience finding your way back onto the plateau at the top (not too bad). The route is long, it took us most of the day moving at a leisurely pace and stopping for lunch. Start as early as possible and keep water for the walk down as that slope bakes in the afternoon sun. Its a great outing especially for a first multipitch route as you get really high up with little exposure; there being ledges everywhere to chill on.

MarkM
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Post by MarkM » Fri Aug 25, 2006 7:22 am

The route description is in issue no. 5 (June 2003).

If you can't find a copy let me know and I'll scan the relevant pages and mail them to you.
Open hand, open mind...

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Rastaman
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Post by Rastaman » Fri Aug 25, 2006 7:53 am

Sounds amazing.
Any chance the rd could be posted up here?

Richard
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Post by Richard » Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:33 am

I must have done Slangolie Frontal at least ten times. Wonderful outing. The more direct start is virtually off the path as you round the buttress and see Corridor. I reckon the direct start (only about 13/14 at most) is on good rock and makes the route much more direct. There are many variations to the line and after a couple of ascents you work out the best pitches, making a grand route, well sheltered from the SE wind. Finishing by going through the Yellowwood Cracks rounds off the day nicely.

Note the Corridor Rib route in Corridor ravine to your right. Worthwhile doing too.

Garron
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Re: Slangolie Frontal

Post by Garron » Fri May 03, 2013 1:52 pm

Hi

Does anyone have a Slangolie Frontal RD that they could send me?

Thanks,
Garron

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MargheritaIntrona
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Re: Slangolie Frontal

Post by MargheritaIntrona » Fri May 03, 2013 2:44 pm

RD emailed :wink: Enjoy and take loads of photos to post on ClimbZA :afro:

Garron
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Re:

Post by Garron » Mon May 06, 2013 6:38 pm

Richard wrote:I must have done Slangolie Frontal at least ten times. Wonderful outing. The more direct start is virtually off the path as you round the buttress and see Corridor. I reckon the direct start (only about 13/14 at most) is on good rock and makes the route much more direct. There are many variations to the line and after a couple of ascents you work out the best pitches, making a grand route, well sheltered from the SE wind. Finishing by going through the Yellowwood Cracks rounds off the day nicely.

Note the Corridor Rib route in Corridor ravine to your right. Worthwhile doing too.
Thanks for this advice, went up the buttress on Saturday, well did the first two pitches of "Left Leg" and then realised that we were not on Slangolie Frontal so then just picked the nicest looking lines and climbed that, some excellent interesting climbing, lots of fun.

Do you have a RD for Corridor Rib? That looks quite nice.

Sorry Margherita did not take any photos, really ment to...

DarrenT
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Real Name: Darren Taylor

Re: Slangolie Frontal

Post by DarrenT » Tue Apr 24, 2018 2:13 pm

Hi all,

If anyone has a copy of the route description for Slangolie Frontal, I would be most grateful if you could pm me a copy. I no longer have that SA Mountain Mag which had the description. Also cant find it in any of my guidebooks.

Thanks,

Darren

SNORT
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Real Name: Charles Edelstein
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Re: Slangolie Frontal

Post by SNORT » Wed Apr 25, 2018 6:57 am

Send me a pm with your email

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Slangolie Frontal

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Wed Apr 25, 2018 8:10 am

1. Slangolie Frontal (14) ***
FA: Cobern, Louw, G. Londt, Taylor. 1911 A magnificent ridge climb with a superb country feel.

Start: About 10 metres above the path in the first easy-looking square break on the front of the buttress. This is a short distance before the path starts veering around onto the right side of the buttress.

1. 25m (11): Climb the break, traversing out right near the top to the broad ledge above. Scramble up to gain the base of the rib proper. Start on a slightly raised vegetated ledge about 10 metres right of the crest, below a vague, bushy recess.

2. 40m (10): Climb the ribs immediately right of the vague, bushy recess, continuing fairly directly up to the level of an obvious right-facing corner/recess on the left. Traverse left to a good stance in the corner.

3. 30m (14): Climb the crack in the corner (past an old in situ cam) and continue up, tending slightly rightwards past a small ledge (cairn), then up a few metres to a stance at the base of a right-facing recess.

4. 20m (13): Climb the recess above the stance for 10 metres, breaking out right at the top to a stance in an obvious right-facing corner.

5. 25m (12): Climb the corner/recess for about 10 metres, traverse 4 metres right and continue up the rightward-tending break to finish up the right side of the face, just left of the edge, onto a ledge.

6. 25m (8): Climb the leftward-tending stepped break from the left side of the ledge. Traverse past a vegetated ledge and continue up leftwards to a stance on the crest of the buttress (cairn).

7. 45m (13): Scramble up a few metres, then climb a short recess on the right and the blocky white face above. Move right at a narrow ledge and climb up to the base of a wide recess/crack. Climb this and continue up, past a cairn at a small stance on the right, to stance on the flat block 4 metres higher on the left.

8. 40m (10): Go through the gap, cross the bushy ledge to the next low band of rock and climb up past a block/flake with a crack behind it. Cross the bushy ledge to the base of the tall face. Climb the crack break up the lowest section to stance on a blocky ledge below the bulging face.

9. 35m (14): Around the corner to the right, there is an obvious orangey recess with a crack in its right wall. Move up to the recess and climb it to a ledge. Continue up to stance on some big blocks. Direct variation 35m (16): Directly above the stance after pitch 8, pull up onto the face roughly in the centre and climb up a few metres before moving right to a break through the small overhang. Pull through this on good holds and continue up the break tending rightwards, then back left to access a narrow ledge below the top bulging section. Traverse to the left edge and pull up leftwards into an undercut scoop. Climb this and mantle onto the ledge. Continue up for 10 metres to stance on top of big blocks.

10. 40m (12): Mantel up to the base of the huge block above then traverse left around the corner. Climb an obvious left-facing crack (awkward), then traverse left and mantel up a smooth short face into a gap and scramble up. Cross the bushy ledge to stance on a block below and slightly right of a wide crack/recess.

11. 35m (10): Climb the crack and short face on the left onto the ledge. Cross this and climb the obvious break up the next rock step. Cross the ledge to stance at a chock stone in a crack at the next step.

12. 20m (8): Scramble up the obvious block/break to the top.

Last time I climbed it we put the rope away after Pitch 9 and scrambled to the top
Happy climbing
Nic

DarrenT
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Real Name: Darren Taylor

Re: Slangolie Frontal

Post by DarrenT » Wed Apr 25, 2018 8:21 am

Thanks Nick

Any photos with the route drawn in?

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Slangolie Frontal

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Wed Apr 25, 2018 12:23 pm

It's in Tony's Cape Peninsula select book with pictures
Happy climbing
Nic

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