Dodgy bolt - Kirika at Silvermine Main Crag

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Josh78
Posts: 31
Joined: Sat Sep 17, 2016 11:09 am
Real Name: Josh sowter
Location: Cape Town

Dodgy bolt - Kirika at Silvermine Main Crag

Post by Josh78 »

Hi fellow climbers,

A word of caution - I discovered the second bolt (protects the crux) of Kirika at Silvermine Main Crag (the very first route as you walk into the crag) to be very questionable. On close examination, the internal stem moves from side to side (not the hanger). To me this looked super dangerous, especially if it were to fail, since you'd hit the ground.

I was unable to take any pictures of it. The route was bolted in 2006, so my guess is it has not been re-bolted (could be wrong), if compared with the beautiful glue-in at the crag. There is a small amount of rust visible, which to me would be of not much concern, but only if the stem didn't move around!! Perhaps this could be an 'apple core effect' rusting from the inside out, this of course is just speculation, I'm not really sure?

Another point to note. The bolt in question has a letter set into the top of the stem. From what I remember this is a good thing, something to do with the quality of bolt used perhaps?

Any feedback would be most welcome please.

Cheers
Josh


Andy Davies
Posts: 343
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 12:37 pm

Re: Dodgy bolt - Kirika at Silvermine Main Crag

Post by Andy Davies »

Hey Josh - I suspect its the bolt moving around in soft rock. Suggest someone takes a spanner and tightens it. You are correct about the stamp on the bolt head - its either a Fischer or Hilti bolt which are good quality
AndyDavies
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XMod
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:38 pm
Real Name: Greg Hart

Re: Dodgy bolt - Kirika at Silvermine Main Crag

Post by XMod »

Been out of climbing a while so only saw this now. The first bolt on Kirika is definitely suspect and should have been a glue in - as I was not ARF ratified at the time I was refused permission to place glue-ins on the route. It is interesting and worrying that the second bolt is similarly compromised. Over and above this the top bolt is not up to spec and in grainy looking rock (could be placed a bit lower too) and the bolt after the traverse right (above the crux) is in a shit place. New beta dictates that the bolt should be lower and further left.

I'd like to replace all of these bolts with glue-ins ( I am now ARF ratified) so will apply for permission to do the work soon. I suggest people stay off the route in the meantime.
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