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Tag Archives | Bolting

Kalymnos bad bolt

Should We Stop using Stainless Steel Bolts in Favour of Titanium Bolts?

Sheffield’s Titanium bolt guru, Martin Roberts, thinks Stainless Steel bolts should become a thing of the past; not just in super corrosive tropical environments like Thailand, but also in the UK.

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Broken carabiners testing

Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations

Over the last 14 months I’ve collected enough carabiners used as lower-offs at belays to make a sound statistical analysis with the aim of drawing some conclusions about their breaking strengths.

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Kalymnos bad bolt Stress Corrosion Cracking

Bolt issue on Kalymnos

As we anticipated for years, they have Stress Corrosion Cracking (SCC) of their stainless steel bolts, just as Cayman Brac and Thailand used to have.

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Update: ARF at Lower Silvermine

Andy Davies has informed us that the 610 shiny new glue-in bolts have arrived for ARF phase II.

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Sanddrif Crag – Wolfberg

Sanddrif Crag is one of the better sport crags in the Western Cape. Please do not do anything to jeopardise access.

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Permanent Protection – Bolting Basic Overview

Good safe bolting requires training & experience. This is a overview, not a training manual. Find someone who has bolted some good routes to show you the finer points of bolting.

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Route #1 at Farside – Rebolted

In conjunction with the Montagu Bolting Fund: Route #1 was re-bolted by Micky Wiswedel (who paid for all the bolts) and Justin Lawson

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UIAA’s statement regarding bolt failure

There have been bolts exposed to humid, sea air and which carry h the UIAA stamp on them, which have corroded so badly that they have simply fallen off under their own weight.

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Re bolting rock climbing routes

Montagu Update: New Anchors on Gospel Express and Quasimodo

The Bolting Fund is picking up momentum in the way of funding and we are looking to replace more anchors and lower off’s at the Steeple and Farside Crags.

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MCSA response to Table Mountain Bolts

Official response from the Mountain Club of South Africa regarding the bolts that were recently installed on Table Mountain.

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