The main climbing in the North West Province is in the Magaliesberg which has over 1800 climbs, mostly multi-pitch trad routes in the beautiful kloofs (gorges).
These kloofs are up to an hours drive apart so directions are given per kloof where possible. Access to the MCSA owned kloofs must be obtained from the MCSA directly, together with permits for a nominal charge. Please support them to help keep these areas open as well as to conserve them.
For further info contact the Johannesburg Section Administrator Uschi Magg at 011 807 1310 Monday to Friday between 8am and 10am or at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Each kloof (gorge) in the Magaliesberg range of mountains has about 50-150 climbs. Most of these are natural multi-pitch climbs with a few sport routes in one or two of the kloofs. Fernkloof has a small concentration of good quality harder sport routes from 24-32. The rock is mostly quartzite and provides for excellent year-round climbing with mostly good protection in a very beautiful setting. Most kloofs are no more than 1.5hrs from Johannesburg or Pretoria.
PDF Topo Downloads
- Rock Climbing Routes at Cedarberg Kloof, Boulder Kloof and Lower Tonquani (356 downloads)
- Rock Climbing Routes on the Magaliesberg Escarpment - Commando Nek, Eureka Dome, Remhoogte (100 downloads)
- Rock Climbing Routes on the Magaliesberg Escarpment - Dome & Fountain Gully (99 downloads)
- Rock Climbing Routes at Grootkloof, Ysterhoutkloof & Groblerskloof (130 downloads)
- Rock Climbing Routes at Hamerkop & Breedtsnek Kloofs (78 downloads)
- Rock Climbing Routes at Kransberg (90 downloads)
- Rock Climbing Routes at Mhlabatini & Fernkloof (331 downloads)
- Rock Climbing Routes at The Hell (90 downloads)
- Rock Climbing Routes at The Hell - Pictures (91 downloads)
- Rock Climbing Routes at Trident, Kranskloof, and Castle Gorge (96 downloads)
- Rock Climbing Routes at Upper Tonquani (247 downloads)
The Climb ZA – South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki has detailed info on climbing in the North West Province.
Tick List for the Magaliesberg Classics
Russ Dodding gathered a list of classic climbs from Paul Fatti, Kevin Smith and Stewart Middlemiss which he edited into a list a excellent Magaliesberg classics. Try do all of these in a year!
|Mhlabatini||Straight Edge; Ego Whip; Jelly Beans Direct; Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained;Tales of Brave Ulysses; Crystal Fire; The File.||8|
|Grootkloof||Isolation Pinnacle; Dive Bomber (Direct).||2|
|Cedarberg||Boggle; Tigatrix; Difficult Shapes and Passive Rhythms; Hang Dog; Golden Balls.||5|
|Lower Tonquani||The Doppler Effect; Circuitbreaker; Just Hot; Red Column; Reign of Terror; Gnasher; Sands of Time.||7|
|Boulder Kloof||Dogstyle; Raging Bull; Slipstream; Sabre.||4|
|Upper Tonquani||Hyperadrenia; The Moke; Red Corner ; Last Rights.||4|
|Castle Gorge||Donner en Bliksem.||1|
|Trident||Apex; Swiss Army Knife.||2|
|Kranskloof||Golden Goose; Fie; Fiona’s Folly; Clime of the Century; The Cruise; The Swarm (Direct finish); Pistol; Arch of Time.||8|
|Dome||Fallen Angel; Devil’s Advocate; Magic Dragon; Muffin Direct; Time Limit.||5|
|Hamerkop||Quintessence; One Crack Mind; Amazing Grace Direct.||3|
1. There are some fine sport routes in the Magaliesberg; these are not included here.
2. Climb this lot in six months and then consider oneself a climber?
Compiled : 1998/12/22