The main climbing in the North West Province is in the Magaliesberg which has over 1800 climbs, mostly multi-pitch trad routes in the beautiful kloofs (gorges).
These kloofs are up to an hours drive apart so directions are given per kloof where possible. Access to the MCSA owned kloofs must be obtained from the MCSA directly, together with permits for a nominal charge. Please support them to help keep these areas open as well as to conserve them.
For further info contact the Johannesburg Section Administrator Uschi Magg at 011 807 1310 Monday to Friday between 8am and 10am or at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Each kloof (gorge) in the Magaliesberg range of mountains has about 50-150 climbs. Most of these are natural multi-pitch climbs with a few sport routes in one or two of the kloofs. Fernkloof has a small concentration of good quality harder sport routes from 24-32. The rock is mostly quartzite and provides for excellent year-round climbing with mostly good protection in a very beautiful setting. Most kloofs are no more than 1.5hrs from Johannesburg or Pretoria.
There are about 60 traditional climbs here, mostly single pitch routes but generally of very high quality. The grades vary from 8 to 27 and many routes in the early twenties can be found here including many good classics.
Over 100 natural climbs exist here, mostly multi-pitch natural lines. Routes of close to 100m high can be found at the junction of the kloof with Tonquani. The grades vary from 5 to 30 with the bulk of the routes in the 17-20 range. The kloof name deri …
The Chosspile is the closest proper sport climbing crag to Johannesburg, being a bit closer than Bronkies. It also has the full spectrum of grades, from super easy, to 33 and beyond. ‘Choss’ as it is affectionately known has provided a place keep fit and work on projects, get away from the big smoke and talk crap, for a couple of generations of Gauteng climbers.
Fernkloof is steep & scenically attractive featuring many natural lines and harder sport routes of grade 24 including a few classic routes such as Faberge and Stormwatch. There are 80+ climbs here with grades varying from 8 to 32.
There are 129 traditional climbs here, mostly single pitch routes but generally of very high quality. A few routes are bolted or have some bolts but many of them are very badly rusted. The grades vary from 5 to 28 with some really good classics at most grades.
Lower Tonquani is a long section of the kloof with 132 natural routes. The climbs are mostly multi-pitch natural lines. These routes see grades from 7 to 26. Some 90m and higher climbs can be found in the area where Cedarberg intersects Tonquani.
Mlhabatini is truly beautiful kloof famous for its many crack climbs. The 136 routes are mostly multi-pitch natural routes, grades vary from 5 to 27 with many at each grade above 15 until 25.
There are about 110 traditional climbs here. The grades vary from itch routes but generally of very high quality. The grades vary from 6 to 23.
|Upper Tonquani Kloof
This is one of the most popular kloofs with almost 150 routes. They are mostly multi-pitch natural routes. These routes see grades from 5 to 25. Many classics can be found here such as Hawk’s Eye, Stone Needle and so forth.
PDF Topo Downloads
The Climb ZA – South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki has detailed info on climbing in the North West Province.
Tick List for the Magaliesberg Classics
Russ Dodding gathered a list of classic climbs from Paul Fatti, Kevin Smith and Stewart Middlemiss which he edited into a list a excellent Magaliesberg classics. Try do all of these in a year!
|Mhlabatini||Straight Edge; Ego Whip; Jelly Beans Direct; Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained;Tales of Brave Ulysses; Crystal Fire; The File.||8|
|Grootkloof||Isolation Pinnacle; Dive Bomber (Direct).||2|
|Cedarberg||Boggle; Tigatrix; Difficult Shapes and Passive Rhythms; Hang Dog; Golden Balls.||5|
|Lower Tonquani||The Doppler Effect; Circuitbreaker; Just Hot; Red Column; Reign of Terror; Gnasher; Sands of Time.||7|
|Boulder Kloof||Dogstyle; Raging Bull; Slipstream; Sabre.||4|
|Upper Tonquani||Hyperadrenia; The Moke; Red Corner ; Last Rights.||4|
|Castle Gorge||Donner en Bliksem.||1|
|Trident||Apex; Swiss Army Knife.||2|
|Kranskloof||Golden Goose; Fie; Fiona’s Folly; Clime of the Century; The Cruise; The Swarm (Direct finish); Pistol; Arch of Time.||8|
|Dome||Fallen Angel; Devil’s Advocate; Magic Dragon; Muffin Direct; Time Limit.||5|
|Hamerkop||Quintessence; One Crack Mind; Amazing Grace Direct.||3|
1. There are some fine sport routes in the Magaliesberg; these are not included here.
2. Climb this lot in six months and then consider oneself a climber?
Compiled : 1998/12/22