Over 100 natural climbs exist here, mostly multi-pitch natural lines. Routes of close to 100m high can be found at the junction of the kloof with Tonquani. The grades vary from 5 to 30 with the bulk of the routes in the 17-20 range.
The kloof name derives from the unusual rock formations in the area which are reminiscent of those found in the Cape Cederberg. The rock is good and is cleanest at the lower end of the kloof. The longest climbs (approximately 80m) are near the Tonquani junction. Those on the true right tend to be the most sustained. Water is always available. This is a large kloof with over 120 climbs.
This is an MCSA owned kloof and access is controlled. Non members should apply for a permit.
For permits & access info contact the Johannesburg Section Administrator Uschi Magg at 011 807 1310 Monday to Friday between 8am and 10am or at email@example.com.
The meet spot is usually just upstream of the Cedarberg/Tonquani junction or in the upper section where there is a large flat area in a forest with an MCSA sign and some good boulder problems and a few partly bolted routes. One can access the kloof either from the Cedarberg/Tonquani Junction, from the top end from Mountain Sanctuary park or the campsite, down Grey Gulley. Frog gulley is also often used but is very steep and can be rather dangerous.
A good stream flows down the whole kloof which is quite long, like all other kloofs it is mostly shaded by forests. Climbing is good all year round. Heavy rains can make the kloof dangerous.
PDF Topo Download
Cedarberg Kloof Wiki Page
These routes are in The Grotto, at the top of Weikloof (see map available from Mountain Sanctuary Park office), and are actually on Mountain Sanctuary Land. There are also a few top-rope lines on the same face worth mentioning. On the extreme right there is a soil-choked recess, and a thin seem which go at 14. 3m left of GROTTO GROOVE, there is a series of discontinuous cracks and features, going around 18. On the extreme left there is a left-facing flake line of grade 14; please take care – this is extremely hollow, and may fall one day – under no circumstance attempt to lead this.
On the true right wall of The Grotto (left as you enter), there is a 1.5m high boulder with a narrow walk-way between it and the wall (4m right of GROTTO GROOVE, 4m from the left end of the face). Start from the top of this boulder. Moderate climbing leads to a committing, balancy top-out crux.
Note: This route had previously been top-roped, but had not been lead.
First Ascent: Dec 2003 Dylan Morgan and party
GROTTO GROOVE 15 R [N]
Near the middle of the true right wall of The Grotto (left as you enter), there is a prominent groove above a small over-hang at 4m. Climb this to reach a tight squeeze chimney, or an exposed mantle to top out.
First Ascent: Dec 2003 Dylan Morgan and party
This area starts from the upper lunch spot where the MCSA sign is and continues upstream. Some of the harder routes can be found in this area, some of which are bolted, or partly bolted.
OLD DOGS OUTING 22 (G3) R [N,R]
1. 22 (G3) 15m Climb the arete 3m to the right of DIFFICULT SHAPES & PASSIVE RYTHYMS. A bouldery & poorly protected start leads to easier climbing up to a roof which is passed on the right. Sneaky types (Ed – or sensible types) may contrive to preplace some gear from the tree to protect the start.
First Ascent: Feb 2000 Stewart Middlemiss & Charles Edelstein
DIFFICULT SHAPES AND PASSIVE RHYTHMS 21 (G3) R **** [N]
About 100m upstream of the easy descent gully at the upper campsite is a rock outcrop. The climb starts almost from stream level but about 30m away from the water on the true right of the kloof. The objective is a 25m face brushed by a tree at about 15m.
1. 21 (G3) 25m Start in the middle and climb diagonally left until the Friend rail at 12m (18 F3). Continue straight up the face (reachy).
Variation: Chicken out onto the arete (G2 20) at 17m and doddle on up.
First Ascent: Mar 1987 M Cartwright and The Hackers, but not the belayer (thanks Grant)
CALLISTO CRACK 15 (F2) R ** [N]
This climb starts upstream of the descent gully near the upper campsite, on the true right of the kloof. It starts in the recess 8m downstream of Difficult Shapes and Passive Rhythms.
1. 15 (F2) 22m Climb the recess/chimney. Finish through the crack on the left.
First Ascent: Mar 1987 G Murray, H Peter-Dummer
PERFIDIOUS PURPLE 19 (G1) R [N]
This route takes the arete between DOMS PARTY & CALISTO CRACK. Start as for CALISTO CRACK, but when possible make a tricky step left to a small ledge. Move up to the base of a small cubby hole below the roof. A long move right brings one to the arete, the right hand face of which is easily followed to the same stance as DOMS PARTY.
Gear is adequate and the route may be a bit reachy for shorter climbers.
First Ascent: Cathy O’Dowd (Described by Dylan Morgan)
DOM’S PARTY 16 (F2) R **** [N]
The next open book to right of recess about 10m downstream of Callisto Crack.
1. 35m F2 16 Climb the open book moving through bulge at top.
GPS: -25,50.759,27,29.014 (WGS84/Hartebeeshoek94 datum, all degrees and decimal minutes South then East)
First Ascent: Mar 1987 D Venter and N RinderPest
ELIMINATOR 27 R [B,N,P]
Up the arete to the right of Terminator.
1. 27 18m Climb up to start easy section to ledge. Clip bolt and climb up arete past peg to roof. Pull through roof and top out.
First Ascent: 1990 S Middlemiss
TERMINATOR 28 (I1) R [4B,N]
On the steep wall about 50m upstream of the access gulley from Mountain Sanctuary.
1. 28 18m Start left and climb past 4 bolts into the groove. Exit right.
First Ascent: 1990 M Cartwright
HOEK VAN BUFOON 17 (F3) R [N]
The corner crack left of TERMINATOR. This route picked up the name of LOWLIFE as well but as it goes the original name was HOEK VAN BUFFOON.
First Ascent: 1990 Mike Loewe, Ian Schwartz, Wendy Jenkin
LUNCH 11 (E2) R ** [N]
This climb ascends the easy face to the left of Terminator.
1. 11 (E2) 20m Take the easiest way up the face.
Note: Two routes could be made up this face.
First Ascent: 1991 D Margetts, M Seegers
SKELDA 22 (G3) R *** [N]
As one descends into Cedarberg kloof from the normal campsite a short face is visible slighlty upstream on the opposite side of the kloof.
1. 22 (G3) 20m Climb the break on the right hand side. Climb up a break to a roof, pull through the roof and finish on a sloping mantle.
First Ascent: 1993 D Margetts, G Devine
WAITING FOR THE SUN 19 (G1) R *** [N]
This climbs the break 2-3m left of Skelda. Route is about 20m high.
First Ascent: 1992 M Seegers, D Margetts
PRECIOUS MOMENTS 19 (G1) R *** [N]
1. 19 (G1) 20m Climb the break 5m left of ‘Waiting For The Sun’, move right near the top to exit.
First Ascent: 1992 D Margetts, M Seegers
KULU 15 (F2) R *** [N]
1. 15 (F2) 20m Ascend the crack and face on the right hand side of the buttress with the MCSA signboard below the crag at the top of Cedarberg. Climb a short crack system. Move right onto a ledge. Pull through the steep face above.
First Ascent: 1992 C Murch, D Margetts, M Seegers and Others.
SCOTSMAN’S SAFARI 9 (E1) R [N]
100m down from the normal entrance to upper Cedarberg from Mountain Sanctuary, there is a level sandy spot with an MCSA sign on a metal post. 20m upstream from the post, the buttress on the true right is split by a low-angle recess filled with tree routes. Ascend this recess to 4m, and traverse left on a ledge. From the end of the ledge, step left and up onto another ledge and follow the recess to the top, stepping right at the end.
First Ascent: Apr 2004 Dylan Morgan, Dave Bailey
STRANGE DAYS 20 (G2) R ** [N]
There is a buttress on the true right of the MCSA sign. In the middle of the buttress there is a recess/corner. The climb takes the left hand corner in the recess.
1. 20 (G2) 10m Climb the left hand corner with the crux just off the ground and continue up to a ledge and tree belay.
2. 17 (F3) 10m Move up the middle of the face behind the ledge, pulling through a small overhang at the top.
First Ascent: 1992 D Margetts, M Seegers, T Truter
THE SOFT PARADE 15 (F2) R [N]
The meeting place at the upper end of Cedarberg is an alcove formed by two rock walls meeting at a right-angle.
1. 10m 10 (E) Starts on the extreme left (downstream) corner of the left hand wall, and follow the easy scramble usually ascended to place top-ropes on other routes, stancing on the half-height ledge at the top of RIDERS ON THE STORM.
2. 10m 15 (F2) Moves right onto the on-angle face left of the second pitch of STRANGE DAYS, and follow the polished, right-leaning water-grove to the top. The second pitch requires contortion and supplety unusual for the grade.
First Ascent: Jan 2001 M. Pienaar, D. Morgan
HORSE LATITUDES 22 (G3) R *** [N,1B]
Climbs the face with 1 bolt 5-10m left of ‘Strange Days’
First Ascent: 1992 M Seegers, D Margetts
RIDERS ON THE STORM 25 (H2) R *** [N,1B]
Climb the crack line 3m left of ‘Horse Latitude’.
First Ascent: 1992 D Margetts, M Seegers
TRIVIAL PURSUIT 18 (F3) R [N]
On small crag close to the upper campsite. Route follows right facing dihedral capped by overhang, about 20 meters from the campsite on the true right hand side of the river. Walk around corner to base of route.
1. 18 (F3) Gain dihedral (and crack just to the right of it) by a tricky move, and continue to overhang. Through overhang on left to ledge, and up easy hand crack above.
First Ascent: Nov 1985 AJ Smith, C Cairns, D Young
BURP 20 (G2) R [N]
Up the crack.
First Ascent: Stewart Middlemiss
THE CITIZEN 14 (F1) R *** [N]
This climb starts 2m right of ‘Mercers Layback’.
1. 14 (F1) 20m Climb diagonally right upwards. Move right into the break and follow this to the top.
Note: This climb shares the top part of Trivial Pursuit.
First Ascent: 1994 G Devine, D Margetts
MERCERS LAYBACK 16 (F2/F3) R *** [N]
About 10m left of ‘Riders in the Storm’ a break can be seen with an obvious layback about 10m up.
1. 16 (F2/F3) 20m Climb the break to the top of the crack.
First Ascent: 1991 D Margetts, M Seegers, A Mercer.
EASY MEAT 12 (E3) R ** [N]
About 10m left of ‘Mercers Layback’ is an obvious buttress, separate from the main buttress.
1. 12 (E2) 20m Climb the crack system up the upstream side of the buttress.
First Ascent: 1994 D Margetts, G Devine
JAM AND TOAST 14 (F1/F2) R [N]
1. 15m 14 (F1/F2) Near the upper meeting place, left of MERCERS LAYBACK the descent gully is formed by the main side of the kloof, and a
broken buttress. Start on the stream-ward (down-hill) face of the buttress, and take the left-most hand crack (i.e. just left of GORILLAS IN THE MIST). On the ledge at half-height, move right, and ascend the narrowing off-width.
First Ascent: 2000 D. Morgan, M. Pienaar
GORILLAS IN THE MIST 12 (E3) R ** [N]
Climb the arete and face left of ‘Easy Meat’.
First Ascent: 1994 G Devine, D Margetts
GREY GULLY 5 (C) L [N]
An easy gully leading to the bed of the kloof. A prominent landmark at the top of this gully consists of two rock columns or undercut pinnacles (The Twins). The gully is easily located by reference to this feature. It is the standard access from the campsite into the kloof.
FRAGILE FORTRESS 16 (F2/F3) L [N]
About 50m down-stream from the upper meeting spot, the true left wall of the kloof comes down to the stream, forming a large, broken buttress. On the upstream face of this buttress, near the up-hill end, there is a shallow crack with rounded lips. Climb this on small gear until the crack terminates, then step right onto a ledge, before scrambling up the final summit block.
First Ascent: Early 1999 D. Morgan, S. Newman
OSSO BLUES 16 (F3) L [N]
Start about 10m downstream of “Grey Gully” (Times Gully) where there is a mostly detached column of rock on the front left of the buttress. There is an obvious crack/recess on the downstream side of the column between the column and the main face.
1. 16 (F3) 30m Start at a shallow overhang (1.5m high) to the left of the main crack. Climb through the overhang on short but sharp holds to a ledge with scallops (4m 16 F3). Move right and ascend the crack to the top of the column (Grade eases to 10 E2). Climb the overhang on massive holds and move right and up to a very large ledge (exit left of Twins Gully).
Note : It is very probable that the main crack between the column and the buttress has been climbed before as it is very obvious.
First Ascent: Oct 1987 S Kellet and J Peirson
HIGH JINKS 15 (F2) L [N]
Start about 25m upstream of the main water fall, opposite smaller waterfall (detached column of rock on front-left of buttress).
1. 15 (F2) 45m Climb a shallow recess on right side of buttress. Climb diagonally in the recess and crack to some overhangs. Move slightly right and up a crack to a large ledge. Climb up right on arete to top blocks.
First Ascent: Oct 1983 C Ward
TRIPPA A LA MAMA 16 (F3) L * [N]
Starts about 20m downstream of “Grey Gully” (Times Gully) and 10m downstream of a detached column of rock on the front left of the buttress. There is a pronounced recess/chimney which slopes slightly to the right and starts on a 2m wide ledge which is reached by scrambling up 5m to the right.
1. 14 (F2) 15m Start immediately to the right of the tree (on the left of the same tree is “High Jinks”). Ascend the crack into the recess and climb up the right corner of the recess until blocked by large chockstones. Move right by using small but rough footholds on the face and up and around to the ledge.
2. 16 (F3) 30m Grovel and grot for 12m to the bottom of a corner to the right side of the arete in “High Jinks”. Hand jam up the crack 2m to the right of the corner. After 3m move left into the corner and then up on good holds until a prominent nose is reached. Move left and onto the nose and then up easy rock on the left of the arete to the top blocks.
First Ascent: Oct 1987 J Peirson, S Kellet
PERSEVERANCE PAYS 21 (G2) L ** [N]
An extremely short but pleasant route near the Upper Cedarberg campsite. Approximately 30m downstream of the campsite on the true left is a 1m roof with a finger crack in it. The route takes this line.
1. 21 (G2) 6m Start on a triangular block, pull through the roof and continue up the layback crack.
First Ascent: Nov 1985 G Mallory, A Smith, B O’Meara, D Young and Jarru.
Middle and Lower
From the upper lunch or meet spot downstream until the Cedarberg/Tonquani junction. The longer climbs are found in this area.
TWILIGHT FLOOZY 30 R [B]
The line is just upstream of the worm hole descent. Climb above the huge fallen tree past two bolts over a bulge to the top.
First Ascent: 1992 R Lord
A good short pitch to finish the day with. Opposite the Jubilee camp site is a descent path. Whilst descending this path a narrow chimney topped by an overhanging bulge is seen to the right. Next to this is a little wall split by a 1,3m crack. Inside the crack on the left hand side is a little flake at 3m.
1. 17 (F3) 13m Climb the crack to the ledge above, move right past gap until the top of the chimney is reached. Climb the bulge using jamming and bridging, then move up on the left wall to the top.
First Ascent: July 1981 N Cleaver, R Cleaver
BURP 20 (G2) R * [N]
Starts 70m downstream of easy descent gully from Twins campsite. A large sandy bay is evident at the right hand side where camping and fires have taken place. A steep arete and crack to the right can be seen at the front of the buttress (cairn).
1. 20 (G2) 25m Scramble up roots to ledge (4m). Climb easy slab above and awkward move onto block on left. Climb overhanging arete/crack to rest point and move up to the left past bollard on rounded rock to top.
First Ascent: Mar 1987 S Middlemiss, D Venter
TORCH ROUTE 5 (C) R [N]
Comprises the lowest easy point of access on the right at the top end of the kloof. Commences about 20m downstream of Grey Gully. The Twins again provide an easy landmark for its location.
First Ascent: 1938 M Burton
20TH CENTURY YOUTH 15 (F2) R [N]
Start well upstream of Naughty Daughter opposite sandy clearing at foot of waterfall. Cairn.
1. 15 (F2) 30m Climb obvious right slanting groove then trend up and left on good holds to large platform and tree belay.
2. 11 (E3) 8m Exit via groove on right hand side of ledge.
First Ascent: July 1981 P Douglas, M Brunke, J Cheesemond
COMING OF AGE 17 (F3) R [N]
A route at the top of Cedarberg 15m down from 20th Century Youth.
1. 17 (F3) 15m Climb a short step into a recess with a slab. Move up the left hand crack on the slabs, moving out left onto a good ledge.
2. 15 (F2) 45m Step over to the right (over the recess you have just climbed). Climb a short wall to a large ledge. Continue up a series of short walls maintaining the right hand end of each. Near the top move left and over onto the top boulders.
First Ascent: Oct 1983 D Bristow and C Ward
WICKED MAMMA 21 (G2/G3) R [N]
Starts just downstream of NAUGHTY DAUGHTER.
1. 21 (G2) 30m Climb shallow corner and arete just left of NAUGHTY DAUGHTER.When possible, move left onto wall above roof & follow thin curving crack to ledge.
First Ascent: 1990 Stewart Middlemiss, Richard Lord
NAUGHTY DAUGHTER 15 (F2) R ** [N]
Start upstream from Longdrop, immediately above the worm-hole descent.
1. 15 (F2) 20m Climb the right hand crack topped by an overhang, hand-traverse left from under overhang to a ledge. Straight up a crack to easy ground and tree belay. Scramble up to next rock band.
2. 13 (F1) 20m Climb a chimney which slants left. Then climb through an obvious recess.
First Ascent: Aug 1975 C Ward
WICKED WENCH 21 (G2) R *** [N]
Start at the same point as NAUGHTY DAUGHTER.
1. 21 (G2/G3) 20m Follow NAUGHTY DAUGHTER up to the start of the hand-traverse rail; from here follow the natural continuation of the corner crack by laybacking up to the overlap. (Crux). Pull through the overlap by using the crack on the right of the block. Continue up a pleasant face on the right to a ledge with good rap tree.
Notes: Technically pleasing on the crux sequence.
First Ascent: 1987 Paul Schlotfeldt & later in Feb 1995 by Russ Dodding & Paul Fatti
SWEATY CHICKEN 15 (F2) R *** [N]
The climb starts approximately 20m downstream of “Torch Route”, in a 90 degree corner directly opposite the large waterfall below “Grey Gully”.
1. 15 (F2) 10m Commence in a corner (beacon) with a narrow chimney wedged with large chockstones. Climb 5m to surmount the chockstones and then move left and climb the short sloping right hand face to the belay ledge (crux).
2. 15 (F2) 18m Facing downstream, climb 1m on the right hand face to a triangular ledge using a one-finger pull-up (crux) then climb the sloping overhanging corner crack (crux) to a cubby-hole. From the back of the cubby-hole climb the crack to the right of a large tree branch, which touches the face, to a 1m wide ledge.
3. 15 (F2) 12m From the right hand side of the ledge climb the slight recess for 4m, move left and climb the left hand corner of the free standing buttress to the top, exiting at the left (crux – no holds).
Note : A good climb with adequate protection.(Previous Editors note : It sounds a bit desperate for F2 .)
First Ascent: May 1988 RG Gunn, JG Gunn, J Ferrington, L Ferrington
ZIGGY STARDUST 23 (H1) R [N,B]
Start from the same ledge as THE THIN WHITE DUKE.
1. 23 (H1) 20m Climb diagonally left up undercut face and then up and leftwards past a bolt & continue to a ledge. Gear a littlesparse on this pitch.
2. 21 (G2) 15m Continue up and through the roof and follow the thin crack up the face above.
First Ascent: 1990 Stewart Middlemiss, Russ Dodding (Pitch 1 not followed)
THE THIN WHITE DUKE 23 (H1) R [N,P]
Starts from a wet sloping ledge below an undercut face approximately 10m to the left of TWIST & SHOUT (LONGDROP).
1. 23 (H1) 20m Start up undercut face from wet ledge & follow discontinuous crack line above past a peg up to a ledge.
2. 23 (H1) 20m Climb the interesting crack/groove through the overhang above & continue to a ledge.
First Ascent: 1989 Stewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop (Pitch 2 not followed)
TWIST & SHOUT 27 (F3) R *** [N,P]
Just downstream of the wormhole in the floor of the kloof above Golden Pitcher, on the right side of the kloof, there is a 12m high conical buttress with some detached blocks on top of it. A continuous crack leads from it, bearing slightly left, up a steep smooth face for 9m and then continues through a 3m roof. Above the roof the crack runs right and up for 5m in a corner whose right wall forms a smooth slab.
1. 11 (E3) 12m Using roots to start, climb the left side of the cone, keeping to the chimney/recess to a stone on top of the cone.
2. 27 (I1) 17m Climb up the continuous crack, through the roof and awkwardly through the lip. Continue climbing with delicate moves up a slab. From the top of the slab move awkwardly onto a ledge on the right and then up to a large ledge. These moves were initially aided at 17,A2 as follows:- Aid through continuous crack which overhangs to begin with (pegs, mostly 25 to 40mm, and a few nuts) and then use mechanical aid through roof using good crack (pegs about 5mm and nuts), move awkwardly through lip (large bong) and peg up until feet are level with lip of roof. Free climb delicately to the top.
3. 15 (F2) 18m To the right an impressive smooth corner slopes up left. Belay near its foot. Climb up to the sloping corner and follow it to the top.
3. 13 (F1) 18m Belay at the foot of the obvious corner on the left (tree belay). Climb directly up the face for 3m to corner, continue up corner to tree on ledge. From the back of the ledge take a steep chimney in the corner which ends 3m from top, where two parallel cracks continue up. Ascend right crack to top.
The aided version was called LONGDROP.
First Ascent: Mar 1974 D Peters, L Mallen on aid. Mar 1974 Variation: J Linke, T Hoy on aid. FFA: 1990 Richard Lord
GOLDEN PITCHER CRAG 10 (E2) R *** [N]
Starts some 9 – 12m downstream of Golden Pitcher Frontal. Scramble 18m to foot of a 5m broad grey face immediately to right of large deep cave. Start from tree at bottom right hand corner of face.
1. 15m E2 10 Climb up face for 9m, then move diagonally left to stance in large recess.
2. 18m C/D 6 Climb up recess to stance at tree.
3. 22m E1 8 Climb up a few metres then traverse left across steep exposed face to opposite side, then move to top. (A lower traverse of F1 grade can be made.)
First Ascent: 1938 Mr & Mrs M Burton and Mr H Barker.
GOLDEN PITCHER FRONTAL 15,A1 (F2) R * [N]
Starts some 10-12m upstream of Golden Pitcher Crag and finishes up the Golden Pitcher.
1. 13 (F1) 14m Climb diagonally left 5m up slight recess to ledge. Climb face above to ledge.
2. 15 (F2) 12m About 3m up crack just to right of trees, 3m layback to cubby hole, 3m up overhanging rock using good grips. Move 0,5m left to seat below broad overhang. Traverse right to broad ledge using small tree as handhold, followed by a dassie traverse.
3. 5 (C) 9m Climb on to large block. Traverse right 6m to stance at bottom of cubby hole.
4. 15 (F2) 9m Ascend overhanging crack to leave cubby hole, using small holds on left hand side. Tree belay. Scramble 6m to base of “pitcher”.
5. 7 (D) 12m Climb open book to broad ledge below “pitcher”.
6. 15,A1 (F2,M1) 9m A shoulder or aid enables leader to reach small tree in crack. Make for second tree in cleft in centre of “pitcher”.
7. 7 (D) 12m Ascend to top of “pitcher” from far side. The descent to the base of the “pitcher” on this side involves further D climbing.
1. 15 (F2) 15m Start some 9m to right of normal start. Move diagonally left 5m up easy rock to ledge below overhanging mantleshelf. Using small finger holds and a layback, mount mantleshelf. Move diagonally up left across fluted face to stance mentioned above.
Other variations consist of an 10 E2 route which makes use of a root to the left of the original 15 F2 route, or a direct ascent of a tree.
First Ascent: 1958 W Weider, PJ Urban
ASTROGUAVA 19 (G1) R * [N]
Start on true right hand side of kloof about 15m downstream of Longdrop. Shin diagonally up roots for 5m to a ledge beneath the obvious break.
1. 19 (G1) 25m Climb the recess for 8m to a ledge below a steep, smooth groove. Opt out and traverse 7m left around the corner to a large white tree at the base of second smooth steep recess. Climb this to top.
First Ascent: Feb 1982 K Smith, R van Dijk
CUZCO 15 (F2) R [N]
About 15m upstream from Church Window is an easily seen small cave about 10m above the stream. To the right of it and slightly lower is another cave. The climb starts on the right side of this.
1. 15 (F2) 18m After a slightly overhanging takeoff, move 2m left to a fault. Climb this, then step left into an open book and after an awkward move, ascend it to a ledge with a large block leaning against the face.
2. 15 (F2) 22m Starting just left of the leaning block, climb on slightly loose holds up to a small overhang about 7m up. Move 2m left on an excellent handrail across a gap to easier rock. Ascend 4m then move left onto a flat face with good holds. Climb this to ledge.
3. 11 (E3) 12m Take obvious route up rough face with rounded holds to the top.
First Ascent: Mar 1987 M Prior, D Peters, R Green
MORNING OVERHANG 23 (H1) R [N]
1. 23 (H1) Starts at the same place as CHURCH WINDOW and moves up the CHURCH WINDOW
open book for 6m before moving right onto the right hand face. Follow the vertical crack on the face for 2m until just under a 3/4m roof. Crank the roof off of a good undercling onto tiny finger grips in the open book above. Continue up for the next 10-15m until a tree.
First Ascent: M Murison
SOLIDARITY CRACK 19 (G1) R *** [N]
The climb starts 5m left of Carrion Comfort up the crack on the downstream side of the buttress.
1. 19 (G1) 10m Follow the crackline.
First Ascent: 1991 D Margetts, M Seegers
CHURCH WINDOW 8 (E1) R *** [N]
Situated on the line of a deep recess about 110m below a broken bay and almost immediately opposite a small cave on the left of the kloof at ground level. The climb is on the immediate upstream side of a definite rock ridge projecting into the kloof.
1. 6 (D) 23m A 2m climb from stream level into niche below overhang. Upwards, bearing to left into depths of recess where crack leads to belay behind tree.
2. 8 (E1) 20m From first stance ease left to outside edge of recess then upwards on ridge to small band thence to right in exposed position on good flat stance.
3, 4. 8 (E1) 37m On red rock immediately above bushes behind second stance. 13 (F1) variation possible.
First Ascent: K Ruhle
GERMAN TETRIS 19 (G1) R [N]
1. 19 (G1) Climb the overhanging face to the left of CHURCH WINDOW for 15m before linking with CHURCH WINDOW. Gear good even though it looks quite bad.
First Ascent: M Murison
KNEES 10 (E2) R ** [N]
The climb starts 4m downstream of Church Window, at the foot of the rock ridge mentioned under that climb.
1. 15m E2 10 Ascend until an overhang forces one to traverse left around the ridge into a corner where there is a small stance.
2. 15m D 7 Ascend corner 2m. Traverse left 3m, then ascend about 12m and traverse back into corner for stance and belay.
3. 15m D 7 The route continues up the right hand side and on the outside of a vertical crack. It ends at a wide ledge, where the climb may be ended.
4. 18m D 7 About 12m left of end of last pitch, there is a red face at right-angles to the kloof. Ascend middle of this face.
First Ascent: 1955 J Humphreys, J Clayton, M van Zyl and P Pienaar
LABYRINTH 10 (E2) R **** [N]
Starts about 45m downstream from Church Window in a recess immediately opposite the upper swimming pool and about 180m upstream of the main swimming pool under Maternity Couch. Two large trees just below the pool locate the start of the climb.
1. 12m D 6 From behind the upper of the two trees ascend into a flat-roofed overhang.
2. 15m D 7 Diagonally to right for 10m, then left over sloping rock on small holds to a stance – or 4m higher and on “handrails” to same point.
3. 9m E3 10 In a crack about 5m, then left of it to a niche covered by a chockstone. Over this chockstone and a few metres higher over easy rock to a big ledge.
4. 22m D 7 On the left a deep chimney leads to the last ledges. The route goes halfway up the chimney and then left through a narrow curved tunnel-crack to a platform vertically above the stream.
5. 12m D 7 Another crack cuts the rock on right of platform into half for about 25m up. 1m from edge of platform a deep square-cut hole 60cm x 3m in section goes down about 22m. The route proceeds on right 5m followed by a step over and 6m up to top.
4. 25m E1 8 Instead of following curved chimney to left proceed straight up to right of cracks with chockstones. Belay at prominent ledge. Climbing crack itself is of D standard.
5. 2m E1 8 Slightly to right up to red face and left past grass patches to top of krantz.
First Ascent: Mar 1943 K Ruhle, E Ruhle, R Glass. 1976 Variation : S van Rensburg (Jnr), P van Rensburg, D van Rensburg and C Rice
RED FALCON CRAG 16 (F3) R **** [N]
Commences on the ridge immediately downstream of Labyrinth recess. An inverted V ending in a very narrow crack like an inverted funnel – to the right of the prominent red overhangs and about 25m above stream – forms a very good landmark. Two large trees just below the upper swimming pool locate the bottom pitch.
1. 13 (F1) 25m Starting a few metres to the left of the lower tree, the route ascends diagonally upwards to the left over a series of steps to about 8m above the stream. Thence upwards to a few metres below the sloping face forming the inverted V. Then traverse to the right to a small stance on the corner about 2m below the right edge of the inverted V. The belay is through an eye through the rock on the corner. The right hand edge of the eye is a “loosish” rock but the belay is good.
2. 16 (F3) 15m Commence by climbing the right hand edge of inverted V as close to overhang as possible, for 5m then traverse to left hand side of V. The ascent continues up the left hand red face to the top of the inverted V. Up to this point the climbing is delicate. Care is necessary to avoid loose rock. Good belay available on ledge on left at top of inverted V.
3. 11 (E3) 22m Straight up face to immediately left of chimney leading up from stance. Good typical Cedarberg holds.
Note : From third stance a series of fascinating tunnels will be seen. One of these forms a gash parallel to the face just climbed. It is possible to chimney down this tunnel to the bottom 9m below. A second tunnel curves down towards the right and may be descended to join Labyrinth route. It is possible to girdle the crag by means of a traverse across the face and ascend at corner.
4. 6 (D) 25m The final pitch is mild and many routes may be chosen.
First Ascent: Apr 1939 C Nicholls, D Abercrombie, BI Harris.
RED LIGHT 17 (F3) R *** [N]
The route ascends the steep red face immediately downstream of Red Falcon Crag. Start 9m downstream of the tree which marks the start of Red Falcon Crag and scramble to a ledge at 3m.
1. 10 (E2) 9m Ascend diagonally left over ledges and reach up to a small tree then move left to two large trees and belay in broken corner.
2. 17 (F3) 18m Move back right to the small trees and up right into a shallow scoop in the whitish face (immediately above the start). Ascend to a small overhang and traverse right under the nose then up 3m to a sitting stance in the upstream facing corner. Belays on a block on the nose and peg.
3. 17 (F3) 12m Move up onto the nose and diagonally left to a square ledge. Ascend the steep face above strenuously then move right to a tree belay.
4. 15 (F2) 28m Traverse 6m back left and up left onto a block. Ascend steeply up left on good holds towards the arete. Continue up about 3m right of the arete to a tree belay. A delightful pitch with good protection and incut holds.
First Ascent: May 1969 AD Barley, M White.
RUBORCANIS 17 (F3) R ** [N]
The objective is the crack directly above the apex of the “inverted V” of Red Falcon Crag.
Start about 8m downstream of the tree marking the start of Red Falcon Crag.
1. 17 (F3) 30m Climb the recess/crack system leading up to the short pillar at the base of the left hand side of the “inverted V”. Continue directly up to the apex of the “V”, and step left to a ledge (stance shared with Red Falcon Crag).
2. 17 (F3) 15m Step back right and climb the final crack.
First Ascent: Nov 1984 KM Smith, C Edelstein, R van Dijk.
BLACK SHADOW 20 (G2) R *** [N]
Between Deception and Red Falcon Crag is “overhanging rock”. A buttress starts from wide ledges about 18m above the kloof bed. On the right hand side of the buttress is a prominent steep black groove. Black Shadow gains this using a large flake on the left to avoid the initial overhanging section. On the left side of the buttress is a shallow groove leading onto a slanting slab and this is the line of Heatstorm.
Scramble to the large ledges at base of the buttress and block belay near the start of the obvious flake crack.
1. 15 (F2) 18m Climb the flake crack for 5m to where it steepens. Traverse right (awkward) to a good ledge, move up and walk right on top of the flake into the black groove. Move up to a tree belay in a cave.
2. 20 (G2) 15m Ascend the groove by laybacking and bridging.
First Ascent: Oct 1968 AD Barley, RP Barley
HEATSTORM 20 (G2) R * [N]
(See comment in Black Shadow)
Scramble to the large ledges at the base of the buttress and tree belay just to the left of the short steep wall below the shallow groove.
1. 18m F3 18 Ascend a short overhanging wall and continue directly up the shallow groove to a small stance and peg belay on the left, below the slanting wall.
2. 30m G2 20 Move right, gain the slanting slab and follow it right. On reaching the top right extremity of the slab, step down below a small overhang and gain the undercut slab on the right, moving past a peg (in place). Cross this using flakes in the roof, reach up to a block and swing round into a recess and a good resting place. Move up to the overhang, step left onto protruding blocks and surmount the overhang to a large flake. A short groove leads to scrambling to the top. A serious pitch due to dubious rock and considerable exposure.
Note : Pitch 2 opened with one aid point.
First Ascent: Oct 1968 AD Barley, RP Barley
DECEPTION 11 (E3) R ** [N]
Situated in a gap between the two series of red overhangs about 75m above lower swimming pool. Climb starts to right of lower series of overhangs.
1. 25m E1 8 Straight up to grassy ledge and up corner to deep crack or cave.
2. 15m E3 11 Chimney up to underneath overhang. Very thin traverse 5m to right, then up crack in rock to good belay.
3. 22m D 7 Easy climb straight up, although more difficult route possible by bearing left.
First Ascent: Dec 1946 T Louw, L Lincoln
ADRENALIN 19 (G1) R **** [N,P]
The start is just to the left of Deception.
1. 11 (E3) 25m Climb up to tree and continue upwards behind tree to a high level traverse to the left. Traverse left around corner and continue to small stance in niche below main overhang.
2. 19 (G1) 17m Move up to overhang and layback into groove above. Climb straight up to large niche. Climb high up the niche then step left onto overhanging face. Climb short face to good hand knobs above and then with handjam and fancy footwork traverse out left and gain a good stance on an arete.
3. 13 (F1) 34m A delicate step left into recessed ramp, climb diagonally up and right for a few metres then follow main depression bearing slightly left to tree 15m up. Continue upwards bearing slightly left then back right into corner which is followed to the top.
Note : Pitch two opened with aid – now normally freed.
On a subsequent occasion a more direct first pitch was opened, which, owing to dampness, was avoided by opening party.
1. 19 (G1) 22m About 25m upstream of swimming pool is a wet vegetated groove. Start 3m left of the wet groove and move up to a nose, then traverse left across a slab to the bottom of a short corner. Move up this awkwardly to a large ledge which is traversed right for 8m to the steep crack above the wet groove. Move up and using a flake on the right wall make a difficult move past the overhanging block to a niche. Continue up a steep funnel to another niche and peg belay below the main overhang.
First Ascent: Jun 1967 P Fatti, JH Graafland (Variation AD Barley, M White)
AUSPICE 20 (G2) R ** [N, P]
This route starts between Cedarberg Traverse and Adrenalin. About 10m left of Adrenalin there is a short recess, usually a bit damp, with an old peg visible about 4m above ground level. The first pitch has obviously been climbed before but is not written up.
1. 19 (G1) 30m Climb the recess to a good ledge. Walk right about 5m to another break and climb this to a small ledge on the right where another old peg is to be found. A difficult move up and left brings you onto easier rock. Climb upwards and tending left to ledge which is at the same level as Cedarberg Traverse. Dassie-crawl right along the ledge to a large ledge which is about 10m to the right of Cedarberg Traverse.
2. 20 (G2) 45m Above is an impressive corner. Climb up 15m to a small overhang (F2). A difficult move right, around the corner, brings you into a small recess. Continue with difficulty horizontally right into a further recess. Up slightly and then traverse onto a stance common
with Adrenalin. Continue up easy rock to the top.
First Ascent: Jun 1983 C Edelstein, A Smith.
AGONISING HANDS 24 (H2) R **** [N]
Start at the gray end of the face 7m upstream of Cedarberg Traverse.
1. 17 (F3) 20m From directly below the face climb up onto ledge (3m). Climb the roots and then move diagonally right into recess. Traverse 2m right and then up for 3m to awkward ledge. Move back 3m to good stance.
2. 24 (H2) 20m Start 3m right of Auspice. Climb steep root into left facing open book. Continue up greasy corner to small overlap. Move right round corner and up to another small overhang. Make short move left and up to join the final right traverse of Auspice (good jams). Make tricky moves up right to stance in the base of the left facing corner.
3. 23 (H1) 25m Continue up pink corner and then straight up orange rock for 5m to a good rail. Move left to good jams and good gear. Finish off up “V” at left end of rail.
First Ascent: 1988 C Edelstein, P Carter
DOGGLE 25 (H2) R [N]
Essentially a variation to the last pitch of Agonising Hands.
1. 25m 25 H2 Follow the line of 2 pegs to the left of the last pitch of Agonising Hands and then go up the “V” groove above.
First Ascent: Date unknown C Edelstein.
CEDARBERG TRAVERSE 17 (F3) R **** [N, P]
Opposite Maternity Gully is a whitish face which is topped by a prominent overhang over 100m long. Broadly the route ascends this face a bit to the right of its centre, up to the overhang, makes a long traverse left to the end of the overhang, ascends vertically and then diagonally right above the latter overhang, and finally reaches the top through a gap in a second minor overhang.
1. E1 (8) 18m The start is a few metres from the lower swimming pool, where a number of roots are festooned on the face. Climb to a stork’s nest. Traverse right below nest and ascend to a ledge (E1) or ascend and traverse right above nest to same ledge (D). A chockstone in a crack which slopes up to the right is the belay point.
2. 15 (F2) 24m (Six meters vertically, 18m to left.) Ascend 3m and traverse to left around bulge. Continue traversing left at same level on steep delicate face, or ascend 2m and then traverse left on less steep but equally difficult rock. Ascend about 3m to immediately under overhang, and traverse around nose to small stance with eye hole belay.
3. 17 (F3) 30m Descend for 2,5m traverse across sloping slab, then traverse around a spectacular corner (slight descent while making this move) to easier rock. Continue traversing to end of overhang which has stepped down nearer floor of kloof over this section.
4. 8 (E1) 9m Ascend to ledge where there is a large block belay. The first section of the climb ends at this point, An easy way out may be climbed diagonally left.
5. 15 (F2) 25m Climb up the “tiled” slab which slopes up and to the right. Bear right to avoid a small overhang and then continue up a recess until an eye-hole is reached in the right hand wall of the recess. Squeeze through eye-hole. This point is approximately 30m above the start of pitch 3, but separated from it by the large overhang.
6. 18 (F3) 9m After straightforward climbing up a slab a small overhang is overcome by making a short but difficult move through a gap. The climb ends on the ledge above.
Note : The climb can be harder to second than lead. The climb is long and of sustained difficulty. The most difficult pitches are 3 & 6.
An alternative start to the route begins 40m upstream. Scramble 10m up to a ledge and tree belay.
1. 10 (E2) 18m Climb up rib of rock on the left to the traverse line at 7m. Traverse left just below the overhang, with an awkward final move to a small ledge and peg belay. (As for pitch 1 belay on Adrenalin.)
2. 15 (F2) 22m Continue the traverse at the same level below the overhang. Difficulty relents after 7m. Belay at the top of the original pitch 1. Continue as for the original route.
6. 15 (F2) Traverse right across slab and then ascend overhang by means of strenuous pull-ups on good holds. Spectacular but easier than original final pitch.
First Ascent: Feb 1950 Lower section: R Davies, F Villa. May 1952 Upper Section: D Bell, D Gillham.
PROJECT 22 21,A1 (G2,M1) R [N]
Start directly opposite FROG GULLY on the true right-hand side of the kloof, below a huge open book in the overhangs in the upper part of the kloof.
1. 35m 21A0 (G2/G3 M0) Scramble up the vertical grass (often wet) to the tree. Step 1m right and climb up 3m before pulling left into the thin groove. Climb up strenuously to a resting place below the overhang. Stretch across and clip a thin wire (in place). Using this for aid, step right and up into the base of the steep, broken crack. Climb the crack for about 15m to where the angle eases at the level of the CEDARBERG TRAVERSE. Follow this route up and left around the corner and then back down to a stance just to the left of the crack which leads up to the big dihederal above.
2. 25m 20A2 (G2 M1) Climb back up the crack to the small overhang. Pull through this and continue for about 1m from where it is possible to pull left to the prominent flake and crack. Steep jamming and laybacking leads to a resting position on top of the broken flake. A further 3m leads up to the first major roof in the dihederal from where the aid climbing starts. Aid through this roof and continue up into the dihederal above. Climb this past some guano and continue to where the dihederal runs into the final, huge overhang. Traverse right (on aid) to the end of the overhang, step right and up onto a good stance.
3. 10m 12 (E3) Step right into the groove, climb this and continue to top.
Comment: Dylan thinks that most of the second pitch can be climbed free.
First Ascent: Pitch 1 and first part of pitch 2: Paul Fatti and Art McGarr (1976) Pitch 2 & 3: Dylan Morgan and Paul Fatti (24/10/1998) Russ Dodding participated in the intervening attempts.
SUICIDE 20, A1 (G2) R **** [N,P]
Takes the continuously overhanging section of the buttress 15m downstream of the swimming pool. Starts 12m downstream of the pool from a sloping shelf where a corner slants up to the overhangs at 12m.
1. 17 (F3) 11m Follow the corner until one can move right to a narrow ledge below the overhangs.
2. 20,A1 (G2,M1) F24 14m Traverse left below the overhang, round a rib to a thin crack 6m. Ascend the overhang using 3 nuts in this crack until it is peters out. Move left onto a slab around the corner, then back right into the corner and up to a tiny stance below a small overhang (peg belay).
3. 18 (G1) 18m Gain the ledge on the left and onto a pinnacle flake. Ascend the crack above to the horizontal break below the overhangs (Cedarberg Traverse) and move directly up to handrail. Swing right and up a slanting crack to a peg belay on a superb protruding perch under the overhanging wall.
4. 19 (G1) 18m Make a very exposed traverse left on good holds and layback up to a peg (in place) and make a “Western Roll” onto the ledge on the left. Easily up to the large ledge and peg belay. (Top of Boggle, pitch 2.)
5. 19,A1 (G1,M1) F21 15m Climb the steep handjam crack above the stance using 2 nuts for aid. Continue up the very steep wall to a spike then up left on good holds to a small stance. Pitch 5 has been climbed free up the right hand crack (15m 20 G2).
6. 17 (F3) 9m Move up right on the slab and up to an overhanging chimney through the final overhang (as for Cedarberg Traverse).
This avoids the A1 pitch by using Cedarberg Traverse pitches 1 and 2 and from here:
3. 17 (F3) 18m Gain the sloping slab below an overlap (5m right of Cedarberg Traverse crux) and surmount it to a narrow ledge containing a large flake. Make a semi-hand traverse left for 5m to the perch under the overhanging wall.
Note : Original pitches combined to give pitches as follows.
1 (original 1 & 2) 24 (H2) 25m.
2 (original 3 & 4) 19 (G1) 25m.
3 (original 5 & 6) 21 (G2) 25m.
First Ascent: Dec 1968 AD Barley, RP Barley. First Free Ascent: Oct 1985 KM Smith, M Brunke.
DOGSPYDER 23 (H1) R ** [N]
Effectively a direct version of Spiderman. Start about 5m to the right of Boggle/Spiderman.
1. 23 (H1) 40m Up very steep broken crack tending diagonally right towards ledges at 10m. Climb diagonally up left to join Spiderman at 25m. Up crack/recess to ledge.
First Ascent: Aug 1989 C Edelstein, S Middlemiss
SPIDERMAN 20 (G2) R ** [N]
Start 5m upstream of the first pitch of Boggle (a tree-filled corner 18m downstream of the swimming pool).
1. 20 (G2) 25m Climb right then up to gain a crack leading to ledges beneath a white face.
2. 18 (F3) 45m Climb up the left side of the white face (Boggle’s 2nd pitch traverses right across the face). Traverse left beneath the penultimate roof, climb 5m up the wall above, move right around a long overhang and continue directly to the summit.
First Ascent: Jan 1985 KM Smith, A de Klerk (accompanied by C Edelstein and G Mallory on first pitch).
CLIMBING IN BED WITH MADONNA 27 (I1) R *** [B,A,R]
Start at the first bolt downstream of suicide which is more or less opposite ‘Frog Gully’.
1. FOREPLAY 27 35m Step off ledge above river to clip bolt. Move diagonally right past next bolt and climb crack above to cubby hole. Up steep bulge above past another bolt and onto easier ground. Move diagonally right about 5m into corner below roof. Pull through roof at corner on right and up into leftwards trending crack system. Exit onto ledge system at same level as end of the BOGGLE first pitch.
2. THE BIT IN THE MIDDLE 27 10m Climb through the roof above sharing the stance with pitch two of BOGGLE. There are chains here.
3. AFTERGLOW 27 20m Climb the bolted line on the wall above.
The bolts and chains are badly rusted, take care.
First Ascent: 1991 PJ Lazarus
BOGGLE 19 (G1) R ***** [N]
The route takes an impressive line up the steep buttress 15m downstream of the swimming pool and finishes up the slanting chimney crack which can be seen from Frog Gully. Start 18m downstream of the swimming pool below a tree-filled corner immediately left of Cedarberg Traverse buttress.
1. 15 (F2) 25m Ascend the corner to trees in a recess (6m) and continue up to a large ledge and belay (as for pitch 3 belay of Cedarberg Traverse).
2. 16 (F3) 18m Traverse right (Cedarberg Traverse in reverse) until one can move up to gain a white slab above. Move right and up to the top right hand corner of the slab whence an exhilarating swing right is made. Continue more easily up to a large ledge and belay.
3. 19 (G1) 18m Move to the extreme right end of the ledge and up the initial overhang in the slanting chimney-crack. Gain the crack with difficulty and continue to the top with two good resting ledges. A fine impressive pitch in a superb position.
First Ascent: Aug 1968 I McLaghlan, M Makowski.
THE TIGER HUNT 20 (G2) R *** [N]
Located on the buttress immediately downstream and back from the buttress on which the top pitches of Boggle are situated.
1. As per the first pitch of Boggle.
2. 11 (E3) 15m Climb up the gully over mixed ground to the base of an obvious open book which has an off-width crack in its’ corner.
3. 20 (G2) 20m Ascend the face to the right of the open book to a cave which has a dead tree rooted in it. Move across to the small recess on the right of the cave. Climb through the small roof capping the recess and continue up the face above to easier ground. A bollard belay can be taken at the top.
Note : Protection on the crux of pitch 3 is good.
First Ascent: Nov 1986 PS Greenfield, TP Willmot, R Dodding.
OLD YEAR’S EVE CRAG 15 (F2) R [N]
About 80m downstream from Straight Jerry. Starts at downstream end of a long shelf of rock about 2m above water level immediately adjacent to a long narrow pool.
1. 10 (E2) 14m Vertically up in a recessed corner to a small ledge.
2. 15 (F2) 22m Climb a few metres up on the left to a smooth sloping slab from which the left end of a ledge can be reached. This ledge is then followed to the right. (Alternatively, from top of first pitch climb diagonally to the right over alternating smooth slabs and low overhangs to the same spot.)
3. 6 (D) 18m Various routes to the top are possible.
First Ascent: 1938 M Gaze, K Ruhle.
FISTULA 17 (F3) R * [N]
The general line of the route is opposite Frog Face.
1. 9m E3 11 Ascend diagonally to right up ramp, then diagonally left to ledge (eye belay) directly below crack through overhang.
2. 9m F3 17 Ascend 3m to right end of overhang, then traverse left under overhang into crack. Continue up crack.
3. 16m D 6 Up easy rock to top.
First Ascent: 1949 D Gillham, R Davies and I Keith.
SORRENTO 19 (G1) R * [N]
Start about 9m left of Fistula and immediately opposite start of Frog Face and large trees in centre of kloof.
1. 15 (F2) 9m Mantleshelf onto ledge, then ascend on right to corner 3m below ledge forming first stance of Fistula. Traverse 6m onto large ledge. Move up right hand corner onto Fistula ledge.
2. 19 (G1) 3m Ascend overhanging recess to ledge. Stance common with second stance of Fistula.
3. 15 (F2) 30m From extreme left of stance, ascend 12m to piton point and up right to slab below overhanging face with crack in centre. Proceed up crack and move left between two trees. Ascend 9m up large steps and onto large ledge.
4. 7 (D) 30m Ascend 30m over clean face to ledge below overhanging red face.
5. 15 (F2) 15m Ascend to right onto large block to right of face. Move up to corner and summit.
First Ascent: Apr 1963 M Makowski, M Cramphorn
DO YOU FEEL LIKE WE DO 20 (F3,M1) R * [N,P]
Start as for Sorrento.
1. 13 (F1) 10m Mantleshelf onto ledge, climb up in corner and traverse left to a large flat (and wet) ledge. Belay on right hand side.
2. 19 (G1) 12m Slide over to the left hand side of the ledge and climb up left to a ledge beneath the overhanging wall (piton in place). Climb the wall from the right hand end of the ledge, use 2 or 3 nuts if you wish to aid, to a grassy ledge. Aid goes at 14/A1.
3. 13 (F1) 20m Traverse left along the ledge, and climb up to a broken open book recess, which is ascended to a large slabby ledge.
4. 17 (F3) 25m Climb up the steep wall to the left of the white root (strenuous), and up over easier pleasant rock to stance at base of slightly overhanging wall.
5. 15 (F2) 25m Move around the right hand end of the wall and climb up a short way in the corner. Move out left and around onto a ledge above the wall, which is traversed left to a V-shaped chimney capped by an overhang. Climb this to reach the top.
Note : The first two pitches can be combined. From the top of pitch 2 one can climb up right in a large recess 8(E1), then scramble up to the top. One can also scramble off from the top of the following pitches, but then, if you feel like we do, you’ll climb. Pitch 2 may go free, especially now that some of the vegetation has been cleared.
5. 20 (G2) 14m Instead of moving right, continue straight up the overhanging wall utilising the obvious cracks (strenuous). Initially aided at 19,A1 to rest and place protection. Continue up to the base of the V-shaped chimney mentioned in pitch 5. Climb the chimney to the top.
First Ascent: Nov 1978 KM Smith, D Luyt (FFA: 1988 Stewart Middlemiss & Party)
THE CANINE ABYSS 26 (H3) R **** [N,1B]
Climbs the very steep wall about 25m upstream of Cedarberg Crescent (i.e. 10m to the left of Do You Feel Like We Do). Start near tree fern.
1. 26 (H3) 20m Up the recess to the rail. Straight up face past bolt to bucket. Move right and finish up vague notch/groove.
First Ascent: Dec 1989 S Middlemiss
CEDARBERG CRESCENT 20 (G2) R ** [N,1P]
Starts in an overhanging recess opposite Grandpa’s Choice, about 18m upstream from Cedarberg Corner.
1. 20 (G2) 9m Climb to top of overhanging recess, move out 2m to left and ascend to stance above overhang in crack.
2. 10 (E2) 14m Follow crack to ledge with large tree, traverse right about 30m.
3. 12 (F1) 9m Ascend open book to summit.
Note : Crux poorly protected by peg. A choice of several routes is possible for the last pitch.
First Ascent: Oct 1962 M Prior, O Oppler.
THE FINGERTIP FANDANGO 23 (H1) R ** [N]
Start about 15m downstream from Cedarberg Crescent on same side of kloof at steep face with undercut base.
1. 23 (H1) 15m Up face slightly right of arete, back slightly left where angle eases. Up thin rail, left and directly up to ledge with small tree.
Note : Upper portion of wall protected with two pre-placed wires on first ascent.
First Ascent: Nov 1985 AJ Smith, B O’Meara
ENCHANTERS END GAME 25 (H2) R ** [N]
Starts as for the “Fingertip Fandango”.
1. 10m 25 H2 Up the “Fingertip Fandango” but move right where the “Fandango” goes left. Finish straight up from the small cubbyhole.
First Ascent: Jan 1988 R Nattrass
CONQUISTADOR 23 (H1) R ** [N]
A shallow corner crack immediately left of a tree next to the face are situated 10m upstream of Cedarberg Recess.
1. 21 (G2) 8m Climb the crack to a ledge.
2. 23 (H1) 20m Climb the crack above to where it thins (fixed piton). A tricky move right leads to a narrow ledge on the face. Continue up from the left side of the face.
First Ascent: Jan 1986 KM Smith
MONTEZUMA’S REVENGE 23 (H1) R [N]
1. 20m 23 H1 Scramble up Red Rubble to Conquistador’s belay. From the ledge, move up through steep rock to rail. Rail left and lurch up wall past peg to the top.
First Ascent: Mar 1990 S Middlemiss, C Edelstein and C Curzon
RED RUBBLE 10 (E2) R [N]
Commences on the right hand edge of Cedarberg Recess cave. At this point an obvious ledge starting 4m above stream level extends upwards to the right.
1. 10 (E2) 15m Ascending to ledge provides the only difficulty. Then move along the ledge passing a number of insecure looking blocks. Stance is at base of overhanging crack which takes off from the ledge.
2. 10 (E2) 18m Follow the ledge to extreme end where it leads into a chimney. Ascend chimney for about 5m then diagonally up left to wide ledge.
3. 7 (D) 15m Continue up bearing somewhat left, to a wide ledge beneath a red buttress. To the right is a recess which can be climbed as a variation to the final pitch.
4. 7 (D) 9m Ascend the clean, red buttress.
First Ascent: Oct 1939 C Nicholls, M Burton, BI Harris
PREDATOR 22 (G3) R [N]
Turns the roof right of “Cedarberg Recess”.
1. 22 (G3) 20m Starting right of “Cedarberg Recess’s” start, climb the face immediately left of the right arete. From a ledge about 2m below the roof traverse around to the right. Move up to the obvious rail, and rail left to the prow. Pull up past rails to easier rock which is followed to a stance.
First Ascent: Nov 1988 KM Smith
CEDARBERG RECESS 19 (G1) R *** [N]
Starts on right side of large recess opposite Cedarberg Corner about 20m upstream from the junction.
1. 17 (F3) 15m Climb face on right side of recess to platform (3,5m 15 F2). Ascend 3m to piton point. Traverse left 2m into corner with vertical crack. Move 2,5m up and then semi-hand traverse left 2,5m to stance.
2. 19 (G1) 6m Diagonally up and right for about 2,5m into crack which cuts overhang. Climb crack for 5m to stance.
3. 16 (F3) 20m Continue 6m up recess to overhang and move across to good holds on right. Ascend 5m and turn second overhang to right. Ascend face to tree belay.
Note : Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined. In pitch 1 ascend right up to overhang and then traverse left, i.e. a longer semi-hand traverse is necessary (17 F3). Instead of moving right into crack, ascend a cleft through the overhang, to the left of the crack (15 F2).
1. 18 (G1) 15m Start in the same place as the first pitch. Instead of moving right, climb straight up the crack. Step to the left to rejoin the original route. (This pitch is well protected.)
First Ascent: Jan 1959 W Wieder, B Magg, R Kinsley Jan 1990 Variation : A Margetts, P McCann
THE PROBLEM WITH COMPETITION 19 (G1) R [N]
Climbs the vague arete between Sunday Driver and Cedarberg Recess.
1. 19 (G1) 15m Move up and left beneath a small roof to gain a layback crack which is followed to large holds. Continue to a ledge.
First Ascent: Dec 1985 KM Smith, P Lazarus, AJ Smith
SUNDAY DRIVER 22 (G3) R *** [N]
Start 6m left of Cedarberg Recess.
1. 22 (G3) 20m Ascend a short steep crack to a niche below the overhang (3m). Pull around this, and continue up the crack above (strenuous) to a block, which is surmounted (strenuous). Traverse left 3m and up to a niche(alternatively climb straight up from block). Hand-traverse right, mantleshelf, and climb the crack above (Cedarberg Recess 15 F2 variation) to a large ledge and belay.
2. 17 (F3) 25m Move left and up 3m then swing up onto the arete using sharp hold and into the base of a groove. Ascend the groove and then an awkward move out left below the overhang, then up a bulge and right to the top.
First Ascent: Nov 1967 M Makowski, AD Barley, M White First Free Ascent: 1980 J Cheesmond
AFTERBURNER 23 (H1) R *** [N,P,A]
Start as for “Sunday Driver”.
1. 23 (H1) 20m Start as for “Sunday Driver” up to the first ledge, then slightly left and up past pegs to a diagonal rail. Move slightly right to a crack and up this to a small ledge and an old peg under an overlap. Continue up the left tending break above to a ledge and a fixed rap point.
First Ascent: Apr 1989 M Hislop, A Hislop
THE FAST LANE 23 (H1) R ** [N]
Climbs the wall downstream of Sunday Driver. The key feature is a shallow upward-pointing triangular recess. Start a couple of metres left of Sunday Driver’s initial crack.
1. 18m H1 23 Gain a rail at 3m after a tricky start. Traverse left to a flake/block feature and move slightly left up this. Climb diagonally right past a bolt and into the triangular recess. Move up to just below the apex of the recess and rail left across the face to the base of a short handcrack on the right side of a block. Climb the crack to a ledge.
First Ascent: May 1987 K Smith
JUNCTION CORNER 17 (F3) R * [N]
The climb is situated on the corner of Tonquani and Cedarberg, opposite Aloe Corner.
1. 15m F3 17 Climb the recess for 6m to a small platform. Move around the bulge to the left to the foot of a steep face. Climb the face to the overhang, where a nut can be placed in a crack. Traverse to the right and move around the corner (crux). Climb up 3m to a large platform.
2. 37m E1 8 Follow the obvious route for about 37m.
3. 22m D 6 Scramble to the top.
First Ascent: May 1965 A Carmen and D Lubbe
CARRION COMFORT 25 (H2) R *** [4B,N]
About 100m downstream of the MCSA signpost there is a buttress. There is a crack on the downstream side, climb the steep face 5m right of this crack.
1. 25 (H2) 10m Climb the face using 4 bolts.
First Ascent: 1992 M Seegers, D Margetts
BLOOD PRESSURE 17 (F3) L [N]
Starts upstream of the cataract where the earth floor is sloping. At this point the kloof wall is characterised by a short corner (wet at bottom) and a large ledge at 8m capped by an overhang. Downstream from the corner there is a crack at 0,5m, a crack topped by a bulge at 2,5m and a right sloping groove at 8m. Start below the crack topped by bulge, marked BP (scratched on rock).
1. 15 (F2) 8m Climb the crack by jamming and bridging until a move left can be made to reach the large ledge above the bulge. Tree belays.
2. 17 (F3) 20m From the upstream end of the ledge climb a fist-jam crack in a steep ramp, swing right to foothold and pull up to ledge. Climb crack and steep left face on good holds to ledge above. Move left of the undercut rock into a little square-cut bay, up 2m to ledge and nut belays.
3. 17 (F3) 16m Climb the crack above belay, Move right onto good ledge. A step left on a sloping foothold enables a slanting V-crack to be gained. Climb up this to ledge. Move right and climb the crack to the top.
First Ascent: Jul 1981 N Cleaver, R Cleaver.
THE MAMMOTH HUNTERS 16 (F2) L [N]
On the true left about 100m downstream of the illegal campsite in the kloof, near the easy descent gully. The route avoids a very obvious roof with a crack/flake going through it at about 10m. This part of the kloof is still flat but from here on downstream it starts to get steep.
1. 16 (F2) 25m Climb the corner till under the roof. Traverse out on good jams in the ceiling and sneak around the corner onto mega-jugs. (Good large Friend placements.) Doddle on up until you think the climbing has stopped. (We stopped at 25m on a good ledge.)
First Ascent: Mar 1987 M Cartwright, G Murray and A Margetts.
TOADSTOOL 13 (F1) L * [N]
On the left side of the kloof just above the wormhole in the floor of the kloof above Golden Pitcher there is a cave about 7m above the stream. Start from the cave.
1. 13 (F1) 25m Traverse horizontally right out of the cave underneath the overhangs to just around the corner. Ascend the shallow recess in the steep face above. Move left onto the exposed nose with slab on left where the recess steepens. Ascend the nose and move left to tree belay.
2. 11 (E3) 18m Ascend recess to overhangs. Traverse horizontally right round bulge. Ascend slab/corner a few metres, step left and move up short steep face.
3. 10 (E2) 20m A large buttress will be seen up to the left. Start in the centre of the buttress (cairn). Pleasant climbing up steep rock on jugs leads to a shallow recess which bears left and leads to the top of the buttress.
Note : To the left of the finish of the climb there is a “toadstool” which can be climbed on good holds on its downstream side (15 F2).
First Ascent: Feb 1974 D Peters, L Mallen.
PITCHER PICTURE 10 (E2) L * [N]
This route takes a direct line up the buttress directly opposite the Golden Pitcher and immediately upstream of Golden Pitcher Crag. It provides more pleasant climbing than the latter route. Start directly opposite the Golden Pitcher and scramble up a short corner then traverse right on grass and belay at the first tree. This is down to the left of a deep cave.
1. 10 (E2) 8m Move left and up a short groove to a tree belay in a cave.
2. 10 (E2) 15m Move left and ascend the rib to a short crack above the cave. Climb this on good holds and up a recess to a stance on the left and belay on rock “knobs”.
3. 7 (D) 8m Ascend the rock “knobs” directly to a large ledge and tree belay.
4. 7 (D) 22m Move right and follow the ramp to its top to a block belay.
5. 8 (E1) 12m Traverse 3m left and ascend the face on good holds to the top. Belay on block at the back.
First Ascent: Aug 1969 M Prior and party.
RUMPLESTILTSKIN 18 (G1) L *** [N]
Opposite the Golden Pitcher there is a large cave situated 15m above the stream. Start on the left side of the cave directly below its top.
1. 17 (F3) 20m Climb up 3m until opposite a block-like projection. Move left onto the block and continue up via difficult moves until it is possible to hand-traverse on rounded holds to a ledge. Climb up the face until level with the top of the cave, traverse right and move up to the gully.
2. 18 (G1) 15m On the face to the left of the gully there is an obvious steep crack slanting right. Climb up the gully until a traverse left to the base of the crack can be made. Climb the crack until just above the bulge, then traverse 2m left to a block on the face. Continue up 3m to a ledge on the arete.
3. 13 (F1) 30m Climb diagonally right for 6m to the crack of pitch 2, then continue straight up for 25m.
First Ascent: Nov 1969 Pitches 1 & 2: A Goyus, E Ellis, D Peters. 1970 Pitch 3: A McGarr, A Lane.
CROCODILE 11 (E3) L [N]
Start from same tree at bottom right hand corner of Golden Pitcher Crag face.
1. 10 (E2) 25m Follow thin indentation diagonally up right to ledge. Traverse around nose into open book, then climb right hand side of open book to large stance 6m up.
2. 8 (E1) 15m Follow chimney diagonally left to 2 small trees, then traverse right onto nose. Climb a few metres on nose then traverse back into crack. Ascend brown rock to tree belay.
3. 11 (E3) 8m A scramble up gap to right side of tree leads to slab which is climbed on right hand side.
First Ascent: 1956 E Wood, H Fors, F Maree, E Wood.
BUFFALO PINNACLE 10 (E2) L [N]
Start at the corner 10m downstream of the cave opposite KNEES and CHURCH WINDOW. The climb is the prominent pinnacle visible from the stream.
1. 8 (E1) 20m Up vertical face with good holds to small ledge. Keep slightly to right.
2. 7 (D) 13m Straight up to wide ledge and tree belay.
3. 6 (C/D) 13m Traverse to right to base of corner below pinnacle.
4. 7 (D) 13m Climb corner to base of pinnacle.
5. 10 (E2) 13m Climb the crack on the north-west side of the pinnacle.
4. 13 (F1) 14m Climb the face to the left of the corner.
5. 8 (E1) 15m Traverse around the base and climb the crack on the east side to the top.
First Ascent: Sep 1976 S van Rensburg Jnr, P van Rensburg, D van Rensburg, C Rice
DILEMMA 10 (E2) L [N]
The climb is directly opposite Labyrinth.
1. 9m D 6 Scramble up to big ledge on roots.
2. 30m E2 10 Traverse left 9m to break in overhang. Go straight up to ledge.
3. 30m E2 10 Start on red nose to left of ledge. Go straight up to pinnacle visible against skyline. Climb stays roughly on corner of pinnacle.
4. 12m E1 8 Scramble up about 5m. Carry on up crack between pinnacle leaning against main face and face itself.
1. 12m D 7 Scramble up gully then left around corner to tree on large platform below crack in recess.
2. 22m F1 13 Ascend awkward corner on left and then climb directly up to awkward crack topped by small overhang. This is negotiated by turning it to the left.
3. 15m D 7 An easy face is ascended to the bottom of main face and crack.
First Ascent: 1969 A Burger, R Slatem and H Liebsch. Date unknown: J Stapley, Mrs R L Stapley, A Freeman and P Finsen.
FOOTLOOSE 18 (F3) L ** [N]
The route takes the open book which forms the back of the deep recess opposite “Red Falcon Crag”. The objective is the clean slab high above the book.
1. 15 (F2) 35m R1 Climb up under the roof capping the cave at the back of the gully. A lot of broken loose rock. Use the tree root to avoid the loose stuff and break out right under the roof to gain the book above. Ascend the book to the grassy stone with large detached blocks at the base of the ramp.
2. 18 (F3) 35m Start under the prominent crack system bisecting the slab. Move diagonally up left to a good handrail (and some gear). Rail right to gain the base of the crack system. Climb up the crack until it peters out, thrutching through a small tree in the process. Rail right to gain a small open book, the right wall of which faces upstream. Gain the book, with some difficulty and climb up to the sloping stance at the top with a small tree and chicken head for belay.
Note : The R1 means “liberal use of root”. The second pitch is good slab climbing. The rails are foot holdless.
First Ascent: Apr 1987 TP Willmot, S Kelsey.
NO NAME CLIMB 17 (F3) L [N]
Start directly opposite Red Falcon Crag where there is a prominent tree-filled recess. Scramble up this for 13m to the base of a steep, slightly overhanging chimney crack in the left hand wall of the recess.
1. 30m F3 17 Climb the crack (good nut runners) for 18m to where the angle eases. Continue up over easier broken rock to a large ledge and tree belay.
2. 20m E3 11 Climb the face at the back of the ledge, between two prominent recesses to a ledge at 10m. Continue diagonally up right to a stance on a pinnacle on top of the right hand recess.
3. 25m E2 10 Climb the smooth face above on good holds tending left towards the arete after 10m. Follow the arete easily to the top.
2. 20m F1 13 From right hand edge of ledge step right onto buttress and climb up exposed face and continue up open book recess to the stance.
First Ascent: Jul 1976 A McGarr, LP Fatti. Variation: MA Prior, LP Fatti.
THE CRACK 22 (G3) L [N]
Climbs the diagonally right trending crack-line/seam out of the cave.
First Ascent: 1980s Tarquin Holt
NIGRICOLLIS 13 (F1) L [N]
Climb starts 15m above the roots marking the start of Cedarberg Traverse, on the opposite side of the kloof. There is a cave about the same distance upstream from the climb.
1. 35m F1 13 Scramble 15m up grassy bank to start. Ascend a noticeable flat ramp for 5m then move left onto thin face. Move up 3m then slightly left before continuing up to grassy ledge.
2. 20m F1 13 Scramble up grassy ledge to steep broken face. The “maternity” move on Maternity Couch is about 9m to the right of this. Climb 9m up steep face, on excellent holds, to ledge. Move 2m right into recess with smooth flat ramp on the right hand side. Climb 6m up ramp to ceiling, then move out to the right under aloe onto grassy ledge.
3. 15m F1 13 Walk up ledge to gully, directly on line of climb. Ascend smooth chimney to top of small pinnacle and fall across to wall of larger pinnacle, then move left into crack. Climb crack and wall to top of pinnacle.
First Ascent: Feb 1973 M Prior and I Cohen.
PHYDREN 15 (F2) L [N]
Start opposite the wet, vegetated groove of Adrenalin, 25m upstream of the swimming pool. Scramble up to a tree-filled ledge at 3m.
1. 7 (D) 18m Ascend a large corner on the left for 5m, then traverse right to second tree (or ascend directly to this tree via a shallow groove at F1) Ascend to below the overhang then traverse right 11m to a large tree belay at the right end of a wide ledge.
2. 12 (E3) 15m Move back left then traverse 6m left above the overhang to the base of a shallow groove. Ascend the groove to a peg belay in the horizontal break.
3. 12 (E3) 12m Pull over the bulge strenuously and then up rightwards into a corner (to the right of the V-groove) and up this to a tree at the top. Scramble up to a large ledge and tree belay. (Or ascend the V-groove and the crack in the right wall at F1)
4. 15 (F2) 22m Under the large overhang is a red projecting block and this is used to pass the overhang (right-hand side used on ‘Maternity Couch’). Move up a few metres then traverse left and up to the top of an obvious nose. Up rightwards and past a sapling (Ed Note : That was in 1967!) to belay on the right.
5. 12 (E3) 30m Move across right, across the chimney of ‘Maternity Couch’ and the face then continue up the rib, and directly up the pinnacle front on huge jugs.
First Ascent: Dec 1967 AD Barley, M White
MATERNITY COUCH 11 (E3) L *** [N]
Commences about 5m above the big tree opposite the lower swimming pool.
1. 25m E3 11 Straight up the crack starting immediately above the tree to a wide tree-grown ledge. Intermediate belays are possible in this crack.
2. 18m E3 11 Follow the 3m wide ledge to the left for about 11m to a point underneath a reddish coloured rock face, the upper portions of which overhang. Beneath this overhang is a ledge with a tree and about 2m below this again is the “couch” – a horizontal slit in the rock, deep, broad and level, but barely 15cm high. The pitch from the wide ledge proceeds straight up into the right hand side of the “couch” wherein the body lies prostrate and is then contorted to the left side, and out again to the face which is climbed to the ledge above, where a good belay is obtained on the tree.
3. 25m E2 10 From the last ledge one can climb out either right or left.
First Ascent: 1938 A Hooper.
OPEN OFFER 11 (E3) L [N]
Halfway up Frog Gully there is a large grass ledge. The route follows the obvious corner crack opposite the top of the first pitch of Maternity Couch (cairn).
1. 11 (E3) 40m Climb crack in corner, over blocks, until crack widens to chimney. Climb from top of chimney left up into gully. Block belays. From here scramble 10m to top of gully.
First Ascent: Oct 1984 D Quaife, J de Groot.
LULL BEFORE THE STORM 15 (F2) L *** [N]
Starts from the broad ledge on true right hand side, halfway down Frog Gully (i.e. the ledge from which the main pitch of Maternity Couch starts). Start adjacent to tree (cairn).
1. 20m F2 15 Ascend red rock, with loose-looking flakes, to tree. Step right and continue up to small roof. Make a long stride left under roof onto slab and ascend obvious corner to broad ledge with small tree.
2. 30m E3 11 Follow obvious recess above, past a pillar on the left, to a smooth scoop. Step out right, gain top of large detached flake on the left and so to the top.
A good “end-of-the-day” route.
First Ascent: Oct 1984 R Dodding, S Middlemiss, J Graafland and L Gardiner
AERODYNAMICS 19 (G1) L [N]
Halfway down ‘Frog Gulley’ there is a broad ledge on the true right hand side of the gulley. The route starts 3m to the right of a tree at a point where the branches touch the rock (cairn).
1. 19 (G1) 22m Pull onto face, 1m right of its undercut base and ascend directly to large block on the left. Make a rising traverse right to gain the finger-jam crack at the base of the open groove containing a tree. Ascend the groove to a good ledge.
2. 15 (F2) 25m From stance make rising traverse right for about 4m to gain a series of large knobbles and then ascend the thin crack above. Pull over the bulge above, step left and continue directly up the pillar above. Finish up the flake-crack on the left.
First Ascent: R Dodding, A Maddison, H Gill, S Middlemiss, D Quaife
FASCIST GROOVE THANG 19 (G1) L ** [N]
Starts in Frog Gully 7m to the right of Aerodynamics. Scramble up 5m to large cubbyhole at base of route (cairn).
1. 15m G1 19 Climb up steep grooves on back of cubbyhole-recess until they close up necessitating wide bridging to reach tree.
2. 20m F2 15 Straddle up to base of chimney and wriggle to top (strenuous).
First Ascent: Mar 1985 S Middlemiss, P Greenfield
THE HOSE 15 (F2) L [N]
Climbs a clean well protected, small open book on the true left of FROG GULLY and starts near the point one third of the way up the gully where some roots are used for assistance in scrambling up. Traverse right at this point to the base of the corner.
1. 15 (F2) 20m Climb the open book to easier ground, passing a tree.
First Ascent: 1986 Stewart Middlemiss (Solo)
FROG GULLY 6 (C/D) L [N]
An easy gully just below MATERNITY COUCH. Comprises the farthest downstream point of access to the kloof on left hand side. Not to be taken lightly, particularly when wet.
THE HOSE 15 (F2) L [N]
On the right side of FROG GULLY (facing up) and approximately 6m to the right of the left of the cave (with old stretcher) can be seen an open book running the height of the cliffs. The open book starts approximately 5m up.
1. 25m 15 (F2) Climb the open book using crack in back to second large tree.
2. 20m 11 (E3) Follow the continuation crack/groove to top.
First Ascent: Mar 1985 S Middlemiss, P Greenfield
THE PUNTER’S GROOVE 17 (F3) L [N]
The route goes up 5m to the right of The Hose i.e 5m to the left of Leader’s Corner. It follows the recess above the cave with the old stretcher on the true left of Frog Gully. Start at tree to right of cave mouth (cairn).
1. 17 (F3) 18m Climb up arete on right until level with top of cave and good hand/arm rail. Traverse 2m left into crack and ascend 10m to ledge on right.
2. 13 (F1) 30m Climb up crack until small tree is reached. Above tree move right onto steep wall with good holds and Rhino horn feature. Climb up past tree with convoluted trunk to top.
First Ascent: May 1985 S Middlemiss, M Turnbull
LEADERS CORNER 18 (F3) L *** [N]
The climb is situated between Frog Gully and Pretty Dumb and can be seen from the swimming pool. It starts up the grey buttress to the right of the gully and makes for a vertical, right-angled red open book.
1. 25m D 7 Climb the buttress, bearing in towards the base of the right-angled open book recess.
2. 14m F3 18 Climb left hand face of open book recess for 6m. About halfway up, move right 30cm or so into corner. Ascend in crack 3m. Move out right and up 3m to cubby hole. Move right and up to stance 1,5m.
3. 12m D 7 Climb to right of tree to top.
To the left of pitch 3, the main buttress continues for a further 12m.
3. 12m 17 F3 Step back left over the mein corner pitch, gain the groove above and follow the continuation crack for a further 6m. Move left for 2m and continue to the top.
Note : A delightful pitch, in character with the main corner.
First Ascent: Feb 1950 D Bell, A Bell and F Villa. Apr 1990 Variation: R Dodding and P Fatti
DAVID AND JONATHAN 13 (F1) L [N]
The climb starts 20m downstream of Frog Gully on the left side of the stream. Climb up to a ledge about 5m above the stream. Move downstream to the end of the ledge. Start behind some bushes in a recess.
1. 22m F1 13 Climb in recess for 2,5m, move 1m right and ascend 2m. Traverse left into open book. Ascend open book for 9m to ledge.
2. 30m E2 10 Ascend overhanging section for 9m. Move 1m left and continue up face to a tree (12m). Move 1m right, thence 6m to the top.
Note : Clean climb. Overhangs on the second pitch can be avoided by moving 3m to the right on the first stance and thence up.
First Ascent: Jun 1969 E Ellis and A Glanvill
PRETTY DUMB 17 (F3) L ** [N]
The climb starts from the same recess as Straight Jerry.
1. 13 (F1) 12m Climb the steep face on the left hand side of the recess for 5m. Traverse left 2,5m to face at easier angle. Ascend to good block stance.
2. 17 (F3) 12m Ascend diagonally left to overhang. Climb overhang. Move up a few metres then traverse left 3m on thin holds (crux). Move up to good stance. (Common with second stance of Leaders Corner.)
3. 8 (E1) 15m Move out to the right and ascend face to top.
First Ascent: 1965 Pitch 1: P Fatti, M Makowski, A Barker, J Anderson. 1964? Pitch 2 & 3: J Anderson, A Carmen.
STRAIGHT JERRY 15 (F2) L ** [N]
About 30m downstream from the lower swimming pool there is a shallow cave about 25m above the stream bed partially hidden by much foliage. There are many obvious routes to this cave, the crack directly below providing the best climbing (20m).
1. 11 (E3) 20m The pitch starts in the cave and consists of climbing up to a small triangular ledge 5m from the cave floor near the outer edge of the downstream wall of the cave and thence over a chockstone to a belay on the ledge above it. This is a variation from the original route simply called The Jerry, which goes around the corner of the downstream wall of the cave and up the main face to the same ledge.
2. 15 (F2) 15m Climb recess and overhang to ledge above.
3. 6 (D) 25m From this point it is possible to scramble out to the top or alternatively climb out on various variations on the big arete on the left.
First Ascent: Circa 1942 H Wong, J Botha.
TIGATRIX 18 (F3) L **** [N]
Up then face left of the lower Horseplay pitches, to take the prominent handcrack in the roof above the Horseplay traverse. Scramble to face base.
1. 18 (F3) 20m Follow the faint crack in the centre of the face (fixed piton protecting crux), moving left higher up to gain the ledge above. Belay at foot of short face (old piton).
2. 17 (F3) 25m Climb the short face, using arete on left to ledge, and continue steeply to good tree. Swing right (yalpesroH) to beneath the roof and its crack, and thus gain the belay ledge above.
First Ascent: May 1979 KM Smith, G Lacey, C Rotteglia
HORSEPLAY 17 (F3) L ** [N]
Immediately downstream of Straight Jerry is a buttress split by a groove starting at 15m and capped by a large overhang. Scramble 15m to the base of the recess.
1. 12m F2 15 Ascend the steep recess by bridging or chimneying until the angle relents. Continue up to a stance on the left.
2. 12m F1 13 Step back into the groove and ascend to detached blocks on the right to belay below the large overhangs.
3. 11m F3 17 Move up a short steep groove above the detached blocks until a good handrail is reached. Swing left and make an awkward move to gain the broad ledge further left. (This ledge is on a nose halfway through the overhangs.) Continue at this level and descend to a tree belay around the corner.
Alternatively, once on the broad ledge, move up to a large block under the overhang and ascend directly from this with strenuous moves (19 G1). Continue directly up the face above the overhang and continue to the top.
4. 18m F1 13 From the tree belay ascend the wall above to a good handrail. Traverse right onto the front face above the overhang and continue to the top.
Note : Generally on sound, clean rock. Pitches 3 and 4 provide exposed climbing.
First Ascent: May 1968 I McLaghlan, M Makowski, J Anderson and A Carmen
ARABELLA-MELLA 18 (G1) L [N]
3m to the right of Horseplay.
1. 18 (G1) 25m Climb the open book and continue up to a stance common with Horseplay.
First Ascent: Mar 1984 C Edelstein, M Milne.
THE UNDER TOAD 18 (F3) L *** [N]
This route starts from the same shelf as TIGATRIX annd ARRABELLA-MELLA. Scramble up on to the shelf from just downstream of Frog Gulley. Walk downstream along the shelf. 10m right of ARRABELLA-MELLA is an upstream facing corner, at the point where the shelf finishes. 1m left of the corner is a crack which runs up to a small roof at 6m. Start at the base of this crack.
1. 18 (F3) 20m Climb the crack and gain the shelf below the small roof with difficulty. Move 1m left and hence gain the continuation crack in the small corner. Follow this to easier ground above and hence a stout tree. Rap off this, back to the shelf.
“Beware … the Under Toad.”
First Ascent: Nov 1998 Russ Dodding , Heather Murch
ANTISEPTIC 11 (E3) L [N]
The start is situated directly beneath Straight Jerry.
1. 10 (E2) 9m Up recess on right wall 2,5m. Traverse right around corner 2m to position directly below tree. Climb through roots to ledge.
2. 10 (E2) 6m Traverse right onto sloping slab and onto stance.
3. 11 (E3) 12m Ascend bottomless open book 12m to overhang. Scramble to top.
First Ascent: 1966 B Fletcher, RW Charlton.
RANA 10 (E2) L ** [N]
Start 30m downstream from Straight Jerry from square block 1,5m high against wall.
1. 10 (E2) 18m Scramble 9m to overhang. Move around right hand end of overhang to large bushy tree on large ledge.
2. 10 (E2) 11m Move diagonally up across right to base of chimney between the large red and block buttress and the grey face.
3. 8 (E1) 30m Ascend face to left of chimney and move left to tree, then ascend face on right until overhang is reached. Traverse right round corner and ascend 6m face to stance.
3. 11 (E3) 25m Continue up chimney to roof for 7m and climb out on left using good holds. Running belay on fixed piton. Continue up corner further 18m to a good stance on right with tree belay. Scramble to top.
First Ascent: 1960 M Prior, Diane Shackleton, D Shackleton Sep 1975 Variation: S van Rensburg
DOUBLE CROSS 15 (F2) L [N]
Starts 9m downstream from the big block whick marks the start of Rana, on the left-hand side facing downstream. The route goes up into a large obvious rock arch.
1. 12 (E3) 23m Ascend series of short ramps on face 15m to a large ledge. Traverse left up to a large tree belay for 8m. Traverse right into corner.
2. 10 (E2) 25m Continue up face for 15m. Traverse right 9m into an open book. This stance is on ‘Sidewalk’.
3. 15 (F2) 14m Move around the corner (2m) using small handhold on corner. Traverse 6m to the right then ascend double crack for 8m using partial layback and moving slightly to the left.
4. 10 (E2) 15m Traverse 3m left, then move up through the overhangs on large jughandles to the summit of small pinnacle.
First Ascent: Apr 1970 M Prior, R Green
HANG DOG 21 (G3) L **** [N]
This route goes up the line in the middle of the left pillar supporting the “arch” near the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction i.e. 20m left of Sidewalk. Scramble up to the base of the pillar about 40m above the stream.
1. 40m G3 21 Start directly below the break with a hard move through the small overhang. Climb the crack up and diagonally right to below a small overhang. Excellent finger-locks take you up to a small ledge and tree. Continue up easy rock to the top.
First Ascent: Dec 1983 C Edelstein, A Lambert and T Holt.
TRAFFIC LIGHTS 19, A1 (G1) L [N]
Starts under the huge overhanging amphitheatre of Sidewalk. The route climbs the easy wall directly into the amphitheatre, then avoids the roof by a traverse to the left. Start directly below the left hand corner of the amphitheatre.
1. 10 (E2) 35m Ascend the wall directly to the corner in the left of the huge amphitheatre and belay at base of corner.
2. 19,A1 (G1, M1) 20m Climb up the corner crack until a step left can be made onto the steep slab near the top of corner crack. Follow traverse line across slab until tricky move up enables one to gain the crack. Climb this until a step left around the corner can be made to reach another crack. Up this using 2 aid points before long reach enables one to swing left and up to a good ledge.
3. 10 (E3) 25m Step right onto the arete and follow this to top.
First Ascent: Aug 1982 A Wood, N Cleaver
SIDEWALK 20 (G2) L * [N]
Between Frog Face and Rana is a huge overhanging amphitheatre at 45m. This route climbs the easy wall direct into the amphitheatre, then avoids the huge roof by an exhilarating traverse right immediately below the roof. Start directly below the right hand corner.
1. 10 (E2) 40m Ascend the wall directly to the corner in the right of the huge amphitheatre. Climb the corner to a block belay 6m below the roof.
2. 20 (G2) 25m Climb the very steep corner up to the huge roof. Climb the steep corner up to the hugh roof. Hand-traverse out right on good holds to a very exposed ledge on the arete. A few metres of overhanging rock leads to easy ground above.
First Ascent: Oct 1968 AD Barley, RP Barley First Free Ascent Apr 1984 K Kruger, C Edelstein
FROG FACE 7 (D) L ** [N]
Starts opposite a large tree in centre of kloof, and just about exactly opposite the start of Sorrento.
1. 9m D 7 Ascend slight recess to left side of extensive grassy ledge with tree belays.
2. 28m D 7 Ascend left hand ridge of very large square-backed recess, to large ledge. (Several variations possible.)
3. 9m D 7 Move to left hand end of ledge and ascend broken face to top.
First Ascent: Apr 1939 M Burton, M Gaze and B Harris
VIVA 21 (G2) L *** [N]
Scramble up to back of very large square-backed recess/ gully mentioned in Frog Face, Right Angle and Old Man’s Choice. The first pitch follows part of Right Angle. Start behind a large right-leaning tree.
1. 11 (E3) 20m Scramble up the centre of the very clean pleasant face to small ledge below steep pink corner.
2. 21 (G2) 10m Pull through the bulge into the corner and move up to rounded rail on left. Move left to loose-looking flake and pull around corner to left moving up to semi-hanging belay under roof.
3. 19 (G1) 18m Drop down 2m and traverse left across slab to below break in wall above. Follow right hand side of break to under roof. Jam through the 2m roof and up juggy wall above to top.
Note : Pitches 2 & 3 were done separately to avoid excessive rope drag due to the zig-zag nature of the route.
First Ascent: Apr 1987 P Lazarus, S Middlemiss
RIGHT ANGLE 11 (E3) L [N]
The first pitch goes up the centre of the slab forming the square back of the very large recess to the right of Frog Face. Traverse left under overhang then up face just to right of final pitch of Frog Face.
First Ascent: Jan 1962 RW Charlton, M Urban, C Thurston
OLD MAN’S CHOICE 7 (D) L [N]
Scramble 18m up right side of gully to point where grey slab (forming the square back of the large recess referred to in Frog Face and Right Angle) meets the right hand ridge of the recess.
1. 7 (D) 30m Ascend corner between back face and right hand ridge to tree belays below overhang.
2. 7 (D) 18m Climb right hand face to top.
First Ascent: Jan 1946 C Nicholls
DETOUR 11 (E3) L [N]
Starts 13m downstream of Frog Face (i.e. 5m downstream of Old Man’s Choice). Start inside a short deep gully directly beneath the “butterfly”.
1. 30m E3 11 Follow diagonally left up grey ridge for 9m. Then break through slight overhang. Ascend diagonally right across grey face below the “butterfly” and move right to stance below edge of right “wing”.
2. 15m E2 10 Climb face to edge of “wing” and move slightly right. Ascend open book to good stance. Tree and block belays.
3. 15m E3 11 Move 5m left onto buttress (right “wing” of “butterfly”) and ascend steeply to summit.
First Ascent: Feb 1963 M Prior and O Oppler
GRANDPA’S CHOICE 8 (E1) L [N]
Starts directly opposite Cedarberg Crescent.
1. 34m E1 8 Ascend sloping grey face immediately to right of a large tree and deep crack to foot of dirty gully section. Scramble up gully to top.
First Ascent: Opening party unknown.
CAT BURGLAR 22 (G3) L *** [N]
The obvious crack up the left wall of Butterfly. Scramble up to a stance at the base of a short recess a few metres below and to the right of the crack.
1. 22 (G3) 25m Climb up a few metres and traverse left into the base of the crack. Climb the crack and exit right near the top. From the ledge (on Butterfly), traverse left across the face to the arete, and climb this desperately to the summit.
First Ascent: Oct 1985 KM Smith, M Brunke, AJ Smith
BUTTERFLY 16 (F3) L *** [N]
Starts 6m upstream from Cedarberg Corner. During its course diagonally up towards the left, this route crosses first Grandpa’s Choice and then Detour.
1. 7 (D) 9m Move diagonally right up slight recess 5m then diagonally up left to ledge 3m below the left hand end of a 6m x 1,5m long rectangular overhang. Tree belay. This pitch is common with the first pitch of London Town.
2. 11 (E3) 14m Traverse left 6m across grey face, then ascend face 8m to ledge. Tree belay.
3. 8 (E1) 18m Ascend diagonally left across pink face to base of crack in centre of “butterfly”.
4. 16 (F3) 15m Ascend crack up centre of large red “butterfly” buttress to large block (crux). Traverse left 2m to left hand crack and continue vertically 6m to top.
First Ascent: Oct 1962 M Prior, E Adcock, S Perry
CEDARBERG CORNER 10 (E2) L **** [N]
Starts 9m upstream from ‘Cedarberg Recess’ and 30m upstream from Tonquani.
1. 7 (D) 11m Start at beacon on ledge 1.5m above the stream. Move diagonally right up crack for 6m. Traverse left for 5m to a small cave.
2. 10 (E2) 12m Traverse right then up crack 12m to wide sloping grassy ledge below crack with two bushy trees.
3. 10 (E2) 22m Traverse left for 12m to a tree in the crack formed by a recess in the main gorge face, then straight up crack to twin trunked tree below big block. This block is edge of a ledge below a red face inclining inwards to the gorge at about 45 degrees.
4. 8 (E1) 18m Proceed straight up and over red rock, 5m up in crack then traverse left 3m to cleft on left. Straight up cleft 9m over small overhanging rock to block ledge 1.5m to right. Th cleft leading up to 5th pitch is formed between main gorge ridge and face inclining inwards from gorge.
5. 7 (D) 18m Continue up left-hand edge of brown sheet face extending away to right for about 12m then traverse to right under brown overhanging rock. From here the route works itself out to the summit.
2 and 3 12 (E3) 34m Combine pitches 2 and 3 by climbing out of the cave to the left and then continuing up a shallow steep recess above the cave to a big block at top of 3.
First Ascent: Apr 1939 J Langmore, H Barker
CEDARBERG TRIANGLE 11 (E3) L * [N]
Commences about 15m downstream of ‘Cedarberg Corner’ and at the right side of a very large broken, dirty triangular shaped face.
1. 5 (C) 20m Start at base of triangle and ascend to about 2m above small tree (Ed Note : In 1939!) on right side of triangle. Traverse horizontally 4m to stance. Rock belay.
2. 7 (D) 20m Continue on face towards apex of triangle to about 5m from the apex. Stance on right side of triangle.
3. 10 (E2) 14m Move on wide ledge to right until tree is reached by a chimney. Step onto chimney and ascend 8m. Move on wide ledge to chimney directly above former chimney and ascend 6m.
4. 11 (E3) 18m Move to right of red face above the top of the chimney. Ascend the angled recess and move over on left hand face to a small stance. Work to right around overhang and then to the top of it, thereafter following the face straight up. The pitch is perpendicular and exposed but has good holds.
First Ascent: Apr 1939 J Langmore, H Barker
LESSER EVIL 20 (G2) L *** [N]
On left wall of gully leading to cave is open book leading up to roof with jam crack.
1. 30m 20 G2 Up corner to roof. Starting at right, pull through and up and easy ground to abseil tree.
First Ascent: May 1989 C Curzon and S Middlemiss
GREATER EVIL 16 (F3) L [N]
Opposite and 10m upstream of “Cedarberg Crescent” is a large cave in a gully.
1. 15m 16 F3 Start on the right wall of the cave, up and left into open and then bridge through the cave and up to right at flakes.
Note : Very dubious rock.
First Ascent: May 1989 C Curzon and S Middlemiss
DEATH TO DOGS 19 (G1) L *** [N]
Starts 7m upstream and opposite Cedarberg Recess. Scramble up to ledge (10m) approximately 5m to the left of London Town and Flat Dog.
1. 19 (G1) 12m Move up recess to roof. Move left around roof (crux) and move up to second roof. Traverse right 2m across slab and pull up onto belay ledge (loose blocks).
2. 17 (F3) 25m Climb up open book above (5m) and traverse 4m to the right. Move up steep rock above and traverse to the left under the roof to a tree. Move up through the gap in the roof and up the steep wall above to the top. (A steep and exposed pitch for its’ grade.)
First Ascent: Sep 1986 S Middlemiss, D Margetts
LONDON TOWN 18 (F3) L [N]
Start in very slight recess 6m upstream of start of Cedarberg Corner.
1. 9m D 7 Move diagonally right up slight recess 5m then diagonally up left to ledge 3m below the left hand end of 6m x 1,5m long rectangular overhang. Tree belay. (This pitch is common with the first pitch of Butterfly.)
2. 30m F3 18 Move across right to slit at right end of overhang. Move up through slit (a piton and tension on the back rope used on opening ascent). Climb diagonally up to right to small tree sling point and exit through overhanging recess above.
First Ascent: Sep 1966 A Carmen and G Erens. First Free Ascent Mar 1986 S Middlemiss and M Cartwright.
FLAT DOG 18 (F3) L *** [N,P]
Starts directly under roof mentioned in London Town, 10m upstream and on the opposite side of the kloof to Cedarberg Recess. Scramble up to a small U shaped corner (D/E) and then up to the left to the ledge at the end of pitch 1 of London Town. This ledge is 3m below and 4m to the left of the slit in the overhang. The first pitch is part of London Town’s second pitch free and the second goes up the buttress above (to the left of London Town and Golden Balls).
1. 15m F3 18 Move diagonally up right until under slit at right of overhang (old aid pegs in place) and pull through using distant holds. Follow groove above to stance on very sloping ledge just above a tree.
2. 20m F3 17 Move left from stance (approx 3m) and up onto a sloping ledge with a tree. Follow the recess above, taking the left fork at 15m to a belay with tree. From here one can abseil, or scramble to top.
First Ascent: Mar 1986 S Middlemiss and M Cartwright
GOLDEN BALLS 15 (F2) L **** [N]
The climb begins from the same point as Cedarberg Triangle, ascending partially vegetated but sound rock to a large ledge. From the ledge the route follows a short face to a corner (on left of two prominent cracks) to gain a groove and flake above.
1. 42m E2 10 From the flat ledge 1,5m above stream level (mentioned in Cedarberg Triangle), ascend easy rock tending slightly right passing a large nettle tree to reach a large ledge. From the ledge climb the face on the left to gain a second ledge and small tree belay.
2. 35m F2 15 From belay ascend open book (above right hand cairn) using a series of narrow ledges. From top of open book move right and mantleshelf onto a narrow ledge to gain the base of the groove. Pull up into groove and continue past a large flake, scaling a short open book to reach a ledge and tree belay.
2. 30m F1 13 As for the first part of the original pitch, but instead of climbing the flake/groove, move right 5m to below a good crack. climb the crack.
First Ascent: May 1985 AM Maddison, A Mercer 1990 Variation: M Seegers, D Margetts.
TORRID AFFAIR 20 (G2) L **** [N]
A higher-quality alternative top pitch to Golden Balls. Start at the small tree belay.
1. 20 (G2) 30m Ascend the easy crack 3m left of the Golden Balls corner crack for 10m to a ledge. A diagonal break tends right across the wall above. Climb the break, with the crux low down, and continue directly up the wall to a blocky ledge. Step 2m left and follow an easy corner to a tree belay.
Note : Excellent climbing. The first 5m of the diagonal break is not over-protected.
First Ascent: May 1987 R Dodding, P Greenfield
ALOE CORNER 6 (D) L [N]
A climb on the corner of Cedarberg and Tonquani. A number of D routes can be picked out on this section following the line of least resistance to the top. Useful descent route.