Lower Tonquani is a long section of the kloof with 132 natural routes. The climbs are mostly multi-pitch natural lines. These routes see grades from 7 to 26. Some 90m and higher climbs can be found in the area where Cedarberg intersects Tonquani.
There is plenty of water and moving up and down the kloof usually results in you getting wet. Climbing is good all year round.
Permits & Access
This is also an MCSA owned kloof and is the continuation of Upper Tonquani going downstream. Permits should be obtained – see the main page for details. It is part of the Tonquani Complex. Contact the MCSA for more access details.
The access traverse above the pools between Upper and Lower Tonquani (C) is over polished rock and is hazardous to inexperienced parties. The lower meet point is at the Cedarberg/Tonquani junction. The longest climbs are in the area of the Cedarberg junction with climbs of up to 90m. The rock is generally excellent and water is always available.
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Lower Tonquani Gallery
Main Kloof RoutesTHE DANDY 19 (G1) L *** [N]
The climb starts from the broad ledge 15m right of GNASHER and DENNIS THE MENACE, and is
directly in-line with the lower part of Boulder Kloof. The climb starts in a vague recess, and follows a slanting crack, followed by a series of small step-like ledges which tend rightwards.
1. 19 (G1) 20m Straddle up the recess to the base of the slanting crack, move right, then up to gain the horizontal break. Traverse left to above the crack, and ascend the step-like ledges to the top.
First Ascent: Sep 1986 PS Greenfield, Tim P Willmot, Russ Dodding
THE DANDY 19 (G1) L *** [N]
The climb starts from the broad ledge 15m right of GNASHER and DENNIS THE MENACE, and is directly in-line with the lower part of Boulder Kloof. The climb starts in a vague recess, and follows a slanting crack, followed by a series of small step-like ledges which tend rightwards.
1. 19 (G1) 20m Straddle up the recess to the base of the slanting crack, move right, then up to gain the horizontal break. Traverse left to above the crack, and ascend the step-like ledges to the top.
First Ascent: Sep 1986 PS Greenfield, TP Willmot, R Dodding
MATERIAL GIRL 19 (G1) L *** [N]
The route takes the overlapped face immediately upstream of IVORY MADONNA starting at the
bottom right and finishing at the top left.
1. 19 (G1) 40m Start at the stream bed immediately below the start of IVORY MADONNA. Move up to the short very overhanging open book. Power up this to reach the base of the IVORY MADONNA wall at its upstream extremity. Move left and up over the projecting nose to reach the very steep wall above. Engage mind in neutral and climb the wall moving up diagonally leftwards to reach the steep open book above. Layback up the book awkwardly and move more easily to reach a comfortable belay stance above. Scramble to finish.
Note: An excellent, sustained, steep route for what, at first glance appears to be choss.
2. Protection, though thin, is adequate. The ‘scramble’ to the top, from the belay stance, may need a rope.
First Ascent: Jul 1995 U Kiefer, Tim P Willmot
POLISHED PERFORMANCE 16 (F2/F3) R *** [N]
The route takes the obvious deep, narrow open book on the upstream side of the column mentioned in WHO WANTS TO LIVE FOREVER.
1. 16 (F2/F3) 25m Scramble up the left tending ramp to reach the base of the obvious open book. Climb this and stem out to avoid the roof above. Take a belay on top of the column below the steep red wall above.
2. 14 (F1/F2) 25m Move up the short wall downstream of the stance to reach a large ledge. Climb the first obvious break downstream of the wall above the stance. Climb the crack and take a comfortable stance on top.
Note: Superb route. Protection is adequate.
First Ascent: Jul 1995 U Kiefer, TP Willmot
POINT BLANK 18 (F3) L *** [N]
At the junction of Boulder and Lower Tonquani is the Lunch Rock; 14m downstream of this rock is an obvious diagonal crack splitting the steep wall.
1. 18 (F3) 15m Climb the crack to a tree.
First Ascent: Jul 1986 Russ Dodding, Tim P Willmot
JUNCTION ARETE 17 (F3) [N]
1. 17 (F3) 30m Start as for JUNCTION RECESS. Scramble to base of V shaped chimney. On the right-hand wall is a steep, shallow crack. Climb the crack for 5m to a small cubby-hole. Move right around the corner for 6m and up to the top of a square column.
2. 13 (F1) 35m Climb easy rock 10m to overhang below smooth flat face. Traverse right 10m to base of chimney. Ascend chimney to large ledge. (Alternatively climb face – strenuous take-off)
3. 8 (E1) 28m Climb steep face on large jugs to top.
First Ascent: Jun 1995 M Prior, C Epstein
NURSERY CRYMES 20 (G2) L [N]
The route takes the faint crack system midway between the first pitch of JACK THE RIPPER and OEDIPUS SUNDAY.
1. 20 (G2) 20m Climb the crack system directly below the black streaked wall and to the right of the knife edged arete of JACK THE RIPPER. Move left to gain the recess above.
Note: Gear on the crux is scarce.
First Ascent: Nov 1988 S Kelsey, Tim P Willmot
THE FIRST AND THE LAST 15 (F2) R [N]
The climb is situated 400 to 500m upstream of the Boulder Kloof Lower Tonquani junction, 10m upstream of a sandy bank on the right hand side (looking upstream). The climb ascends a smooth grey face on the left wall (looking upstream). The face is terminated on the right by a vertical corner.
1. 20m 15 F2 Start the pitch 2m up from the stream bed and climb the face at the corner to a tree belay on the right.
2. 40m 8 D Climb 4m right up an easy grey face and then to the top of an easy grey ramp to the foot of a vertical red face.
3. 40m 15 F2 Move 5m to the right. The pitch starts from a ledge with a block on the right. Start left of the stance and climb the juggy vertical face directly to the top to a tree belay.
1. 20m 20 G2 From the same start climb the thin crack line 2m left of the corner to the tree belay.
Note : The first and the last pitches are most enjoyable. The first requiring a fine sense of balance and the last is beautiful because of it’s straightness, length and the juggy quality of the rock. This climb may have been done before as an old peg was found at the foot of the last pitch.
First Ascent: May 1988 T Rogers, D Rogers, G Earle
SHOUTING IN A MATCHBOX 25 (H2) R [N]
No route description available.
First Ascent: 1989 Peter Lazarus
DANCE ACROSS THE CENTURIES 25 (H2) R ***** [N]
Approximately 100m upstream from Red Column there is a very overhanging orange wall which starts about 30m below the top of the kloof. The wall faces slightly upstream, is opposite a dry gully and is split by a left-tending break. The route is best approached from the top.
1. 30m H1 24 Start just left of the tree and climb the break to the roof. Step left and pull onto the wall. Continue straight up for about 6m then move slightly right to join the left-tending break. Follow this to the top.
First Ascent: Aug 1986 S Bradshaw, D Neetling (with a rest)
TALK-TALK 19 (G1) R [N]
This route goes up the south face of Red Column buttress i.e. upstream and around the corner from Red Column Face. Scramble up from the stream bed approximately 40m. The route starts below the only obvious break about 2m right of the arete.
1. 40m G1 19 Do a difficult move up the break to an awkward resting place. Continue up and then diagonally right to a recess. Climb the recess easily to a point where it is divided into an easy looking left fork and a steeper right fork. Climb the latter to under an overhang. Swing right onto the arete to a resting place round the corner. Climb the grey recess on the right to the top.
First Ascent: Early 1984 Charles Edelstein, R van Dijk
MORE MONKEY THAN FUNKY 21 (G2) R **** [N]
The route climbs the frontal arete on Red Column and finishes spectacularly through a two-metre roof (which is prominent on the upper skyline, especially when viewed from downstream).
Scramble up grassy slopes to the highest ledge in the large grey open book at the base of Red Column, directly below the final roof.
1. 25m G2 20 Climb the open book to a large cammed block a few metres beneath its top. Traverse two metres left and make tricky moves to gain a hidden ledge a few metres higher. Pull-up on the right and continue up and slightly right over steep, juggy rock to reach a ledge (stance at top of Pitch 3 of Red Column) about 15m below the final flat roof.
2. 20m G2 21 Climb the steep orange wall just to the right of the arete to a rest beneath the roof. Engage mind in reverse and pull through the roof using the crack splitting the lip. Stagger up to the summit.
First Ascent: Nov 1984 KM Smith, S Isabeck, G Mallory
THE SHINING 24 (H2) R **** [N]
Climbs up the centre of the downstream wall of Red Column, finishing via the obvious fist crack.
Scramble to a ledge and small tree at the base of the wall.
1. 25m G2 20 Keeping to the left of the right hand arete, climb the face past a block on the right, to a narrow roof. Pull left through roof and continue up the crack to a small tree (final stance on Red Column Face).
2. 12m H2 24 Climb the short wall and crack to gain the summit.
Note: Protection is not everywhere available on the first pitch.
First Ascent: Oct 1985 KM Smith, M Brunke
GERIATRICAL 19 (G1) R [N]
A variation to Red Column.
Scramble up as for Red Column up to a huge block. Red Column goes right around the corner from here.
2. 30m F3 17 Climb straight up the thin crack from the top of the block. Continue left up the ramp and walk left to below big flake.
3. 30m G1 19 Climb up to the top of the flake (F1). Climb overhanging crack past root and to the top.
First Ascent: Jul 1981 P Douglas, M Brunke
RED COLUMN 15 (F2) R ***** [N]
The Red Column is an outstanding feature on the right hand side of the kloof about 45m upstream from the point of entry of Boulder Kloof into Tonquani Kloof.
1. 15m E3 11 The first two pitches follow the same route as Staircase.
2. 9m F2 15 These bring one to a point about halfway up the red column, on the downstream side (see Staircase).
3. 15m F1 13 From the ledge with tree belay at which the last pitch ended, traverse right along easy ledge to outer edge of the column. Ascend into an open book. Climb open book until one can move out to the right on to a narrow ledge and peg belay above.
4. 22m F2 15 Climb up to right of stance up a 8m sloping grey slab until steep red rock is reached. Traverse 3m right to a horizontal finger of rock where a running belay can be fixed. From here ascend the shallow steep recess above. Halfway up the recess is a difficult move. At the top of the recess traverse 1,5m right and then pass through a break in the overhang to easy rock, which leads to the top.
Note: The route which together with the first two Staircase pitches is on excellent clean rock and affords climbing of consistent standard.
2. 8m G1 19 Instead of traversing right, climb onto block and follow crack to top. (Could this be the second pitch of Geriatrical?)
3. ?m G1 19 From tree belay of second pitch of Red Column Face climb easily up the left wall of gully to reach large ledge below overhanging crack containing two chockstones. Ascend crack awkwardly at first (beware of head jams) moving right at top past tree to belay above gully.
First Ascent: 1950 RF Davies, F Villa Jun 1986 Darryl Margetts, G Margetts, R Diesel (Pitch 2 variation) Jul 1981 P Douglas, M Brunke (Pitch 3 variation)
RED COLUMN FACE 19 (G1) R ***** [N]
The lower part of the route uses parts of the common pitches of Staircase and Red Column.
Start from a large pool under the downstream face of Red Column and scramble up a short wall and across right past a tree and up to belay at the base of two grooves.
1. 12m F2 15 Ascend the right hand groove a few metres and swing right onto the steep wall (3m below overhang) and ascend on good holds. Continue up the slab to a good ledge and peg belay. (4,5m as for Staircase and Red Column.)
2. 22m G1 19 Climb the steep crack immediately behind with difficulty and continue up a shallow steep recess (3m) as for Staircase and Red Column. Ascend the corner above to a large ledge and tree belay on the left (Staircase).
3. 18m G1 19 Climb the wall immediately right of the tree and directly up for 9m then move right along ledges. From the right end of the ledge make strenuous moves up left (4,5m) to peg (in place). From the peg traverse right to a flake below a small tree and up to a small stance.
4. 22m F3 15 Move up a few metres above the tree and traverse right to blocks on the arete. Move up left onto the slab and up right onto the nose. Continue up the wall above to the top.
Note: There is fine exposure on the final pitches. Pitch 3 opened using a tension traverse.
First Ascent: Sep 1968 AD Barley, RP Barley
STAIRCASE 15 (F2) R [N]
Climb commences on downstream face of Red Column and starting point is reached by proceeding up the grass slope below then bearing right to the base of the first overhang near the outer edge of the column.
1. 15m E3 11 Start in dark corner at a medium sized tree. Ascend corner for 6m to a grey face sloping at about 65 degrees. Traverse diagonally left to small ledge thence vertically up another 4,5m to a large ledge. Hand-traverse left (strenuous) 2,5 to 3m and walk over to boulder 2,5m high. Hand-traverse can be avoided by climbing down a few metres and traversing at a lower level.
2. 9m F2 15 Short traverse right, taking off from the top of boulder and balancing round corner to small stance, whence the route goes vertically up a shallow steep recess to a ledge with belay.
3. 8m D 6 Up to a further ledge vertically above.
4. 25m F2 15 Bear left from last belay point, then past a small cave on the left and up overhanging recess for 15m then bear left over a very exposed face with few holds. This leads to a gully immediately above the series of overhangs on the main kloof wall on the left – and allows the summit to be reached, if desired, without further rock work.
5. 8m D 7 Traverse from gully 3m out to right, then diagonally up to outer edge of the Column.
6. 12m D 6 Up over a series of pinnacles to the summit of the Column.
Variation to Pitches 4, 5 and 6:
4. 28m F2 15 Climb the overhanging recess as in Pitch 4, for 11m, then instead of bearing left move about 2m right onto the face and proceed directly to the top of the column on good holds.
First Ascent: Jul 1949 R Charlton, S Penny, E Lude
MEGAWHAT 15 (F2) R *** [N]
Scramble up for the first pitch of Red Column, then traverse left to the base of an obvious easy-angled corner, bounded on the left by a grey face above large overhangs.
1. 20m F2 15 Climb the corner.
First Ascent: Dec 1985 AJ Smith, B O’Meara, KM Smith
BOTTOM LIP MOVES 18 (F3) R ** [N]
Scramble up to grassy ledge below Short Circuit. Climb follows left-leaning corner 10m to right of Short Circuit.
1. 35m F3 18 Climb left-leaning open book to blocky ledges (15m). Move right onto wall with handrail. Traverse across wall moving up towards end (10m). Climb steep recess (just to left of easy chimney) to belay ledge.
2. 30m F3 17 Follow open book above (mostly climbing on left face) to ledge above. Carry on up open book as it steepens, squeezing past creeper at top.
First Ascent: Aug 1987 Stewart Middlemiss, A Margetts
SHORT CIRCUIT 16 (F2) R **** [N]
15m downstream of Red Column is a diminutive triangular undercut buttress, which is bounded on its left by a right-angled corner. This is the main feature of the route. Start from a boulder 5m downstream of the pool below Red Column’s downstream face. Scramble up the ramp then up right to the top of the vegetation.
1. 12m E2 10 Climb the straight crack in the left wall to a narrow ledge and belay on the right.
2. 14m E2 10 Climb up right then traverse left below an overhang and continue up to a good tree belay below an impressive right-angled corner.
3. 18m F2 16 Climb the corner on good holds and jams. Step right at the top to good ledge.
4. 12m E1 8 Move a few metres right until it is possible to step back left onto a slab which leads to the top.
2. 18m F2 15 From the right hand end of the ledge, climb diagonally right for 6m over overhanging rock, then traverse 9m left under the main overhang.
First Ascent: Oct 1968 AD Barley, RP Barley
PHYSICAL GRAFFITI 25 (H2) R ***** [N]
The smooth grey slab above the grassy ramp which leads up to the base of, and is left of, Red Column.
1. 20m H2 25 Climb the thin crack up the centre of the slab.
Note: Small wires are useful as protection.
First Ascent: May 1986 KM Smith
CIRCUIT-BREAKER 22 (G3) R ***** [N]
Climbs the impressive left wall of the Short Circuit corner. Start 2m left of the start of the corner pitch.
1. 35m G3 22 Up in a slightly left direction to a small cubby. Exit right by short hand traverse to base of recess. Up this and make a difficult move past a peg (placed by another party). Step left to main crack line and climb this strenuously to break. Finish up slab on right.
First Ascent: Oct 1986 M Haffner, George Mallory, Clive Curson
SABRE CUT 17 (F3) R ** [N]
Start downstream from Red Column and left of Short Circuit, on a near-perpendicular wall.
1. 20m F1 13 Climb a well defined crack on a grey slab left of Short Circuit to a ledge, move left around a block on a grassy ledge. Continue moving left slightly and up to a large ledge with a bushy tree.
2. 20m F3 17 From the corner on the ledge where the last pitch of Short Circuit starts, there is a break to the left up a very steep wall. Climb up to a shallow recess and move slightly left and up to a small cubby hole. Move out and directly up a short wall to another recess, and join the Sabre Cut crack up to a good ledge and block belay.
3. 25m E3 11 For further pleasant climbing, move right and climb up a rib on good rock to the top of a boulder.
First Ascent: May 1080 D Hunter, C Ward
HANGING AROUND 19 (G1) R * [N]
Climbs the hanging corner left of Circuit Breaker. Start 10m left of the start of that route at a ledge underneath a small prow of rock.
1. ?m 19 G1 Pass the prow on the right and gain the layback crack (difficult move where the crack runs out). Climb past the tree and then right to finish up the off-width crack.
First Ascent: Jan 1987 M Haffner, B O’Meara
FUSED 13 (F1) R [N]
The route ascends the front of the buttress immediately upstream of Boulder Kloof. The start is at the point where the wall of Boulder Kloof swings around into Tonquani. Scramble 6m to a ledge and the start of the cleaner rock of the buttress. Follow a line slanting up left for 4,5m then move diagonally right under overhangs. The initial move is awkward. A grassy ledge is then reached. From here follow the best line to the top.
Note: Variations are possible most of the way. A nondescript route. Length 75m.
First Ascent: Dec 1968 AD Barley, Miss van Steenderen
ZEBOP 18 (G1) R [N]
Situated 5 metres upstream of Can Can. Scramble up to ledge (5 metres).
1. 30m F3 17 Climb crack up to overhang, move right on to small slabs and up to belay ledge.
2. 15m C 4 Scramble up to right to below a red corner on right hand side of buttress above.
3. 35m G1 18 Climb corner and face above to top.
First Ascent: Dec 1986 Stewart Middlemiss, Russ Dodding, L Gardiner
PIROUETTE 18 (F3) R [N]
Start as for Can Can. Scramble up to ledge (5 metres).
1. 35m F3 18 Climb the first 8 metres of the corner as for Can Can and instead of traversing left, move through the left hand side of the overhang and back right to the crack which is followed to the belay ledge.
2. 35m F2 16 Climb up the open book which runs to the top of the cliff for approximately 10 metres. Move right under a flake and up into another narrow open book which is followed to top.
First Ascent: Dec 1986 S Middlemiss, B Slater
CAN-CAN 17 (F3) R ** [N]
Situated about 35m downstream from Boulder Kloof. The start is marked by a large overhang about 15m above the stream bed. The climb starts on the right of this overhang. Scramble 9m to ledge and walk right past overhang to foot of open book at right side of the square overhang i.e. 4,5m to the right of the start of Diminuendo.
1. 9m F3 17 Ascend the back of the recessed corner, move out left near top onto stance. Chockstone and piton belay. This stance common with Diminuendo.
2. 28m F3 17 Traverse left 9m then up 3m to small tree. Move right and up around overhang then up 6m (up to here the pitch is common with the second pitch of Diminuendo). Traverse left across steep reddish face to corner below small block. Continue up recess 3m, move right onto face and climb up to big ledge.
3. 30m F1 13 Move up to the right of creepers hanging down broken red face, up to scoop leading through over hangs, then move right and continue to top.
First Ascent: Nov 1963 Paul Fatti, M Makowski, M Cramphorn, P Venter, J Anderson
DIMINUENDO 17 (F3) R [N]
The climb is located about 40m past Boulder Kloof. The start is marked by a large square overhang about 15m above the stream bed. Scramble 9m to ledge and walk right as far as the recess in line with the left edge of the overhang.
1. 8m F3 17 Layback up recess to overhang then traverse out right mainly on the hands (crux) to stance.
2. 30m F1 13 Traverse left 9m then up 3m to small stamvrug tree on small ledge below minor overhang. Follow general line of slight recess diagonally up right for 18m to extensive ledge. Scramble diagonally right 9m to tree at foot of ridge.
3. 25m E1 8 Ascend pleasant exposed ridge.
First Ascent: Sep 1950 E Scholes, T Louw
QUICKSTEP 20 (G2) R * [N]
Immediately upstream of Dark Gully is a narrow buttress in the lower tier. This is bound on its right by a steep corner (Foxtrot) and immediately right again is a very sharp V-groove (Quickstep). The latter route follows the continuation groove in the top tier and Foxtrot ascends a short groove in the steep ridge right of Dark Gully. (Right of Touch and Go.)
1. 25m G2 20 Make a difficult layback move up the steep crack to reach a peg (in place). Leave the peg with another awkward layback into the bottom of the V-groove. Ascend the groove with fine climbing and move out right below the final overhang to belay on large blocks.
2. 25m F3 17 Step left and up the open groove to where it steepens. Step left and ascend the wall immediately left of the blunt arete to the bottom of a steep corner. Make one move up this them mantleshelf up left (Touch and Go gains this shelf from the left then goes back left into the crack). Make another awkward mantleshelf up right, back into the corner crack which is ascended for one move before swinging out right and across into a short corner on superb holds. Up this to the overhang and step right to a stance and peg belays immediately above the original V-groove.
3. 6m E2 10 Move right and up a slab to the top.
First Ascent: Aug 1969 AD Barley, M White
FOXTROT 17 (F3) R ** [N]
See description of Quickstep regarding location.
Start below the V-groove and scramble up left to good ledge and tree belay below the steep corner.
1. 18m F2 15 Ascend the corner to a block belay on the top of the narrow buttress.
2. 12m E2 10 Ascend left, up a corner, then traverse left to belay on a large ledge in Dark Gully.
3. 34m F3 17 From the ledge ascend the steep arete with strenuous moves to start them move right into the steep groove at 8m. Ascend this and continue directly to the top on superb holds. Finish next to a huge block and scramble 6m left to a tree belay.
First Ascent: Aug 1969 AD Barley, M White
METHODS OF DANCE 19 (G1) R [N]
1. 35m 19 G1 Climbs the corner and face above between the top pitches of Foxtrot and Touch and Go/Quickstep.
First Ascent: Jun 1990 Stewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop, P Stoddard
LET’S DANCE 21 (G2) R * [N]
Climbs the steep wall on the upper LHS of “Dark Gully”. i.e Downstream and around the corner from “Foxtrot”.
1. 20m 21 G3 Tricky take-off and then straight up the wall finishing left.
First Ascent: Nov 1988 Kevin M Smith, Stewart Middlemiss TOUCH AND GO 17 (F3) R ** [N]
The climb is about 15m upstream from Dark Gully. A square grey buttress extends from halfway up the krantz. Above this the face is steep and reddish.
1. 22m E2 10 Scramble up to the left side of the grey buttress, traverse left around corner, continue up line of narrow crack to tree, move left and up, and finally bear right to top of buttress.
2. 12m D 6 Ascend grey rock above base of red recess.
3. 22m F3 17 Up recess to overhang, then move right and up via three narrow off-balance steps. A little higher than the last step move left and up to top via crack. This pitch is steep and sustained.
3. 20m F3 18 Move up recess to overhang. Traverse left thinly to clear roof. Mantle onto hold at base of small open book above. Ascend this to under roof. Step right onto easier ground. Move up open book above to gain large stance.
First Ascent: 1952 S Penny, P Lathan Variation: May 1987 S Kelsey, Tim P Willmot
HEADBANGER 17 (F3) R ** [N]
Scramble up 15m to a ledge, and start between the first pitches of Quickstep and Foxtrot.
1. 30m F3 17 Climb the upstream facing chimney, exit left, and continue up over blocky rock to climb the left edge of the slab bounding Quickstep’s first pitch.
Scramble up to a stance at the base of a V-shaped cave.
2. 20m F3 17 Climb up to the level of the cave roof, then traverse airily left to the arete, and climb up and slightly right to the top.
First Ascent: Dec 1985 Kevin M Smith, AJ Smith, M Haffner
DARK GULLY 7 (D) R [N]
An easy route in deep gully.
First Ascent: 1957 E Scholes
SPARTAN 17 (F3) R [N]
About 20m downstream of the Boulder Kloof junction, about 30m above river level, is a dihedral with a wall forming the left side and a recessed wall on the right. Scramble onto the high level ledge via a recessed corner just upstream and opposite the Cedarberg junction. This involves some E3 grade climbing. Traverse to the right (upstream) almost as far as you can go. Start at the base of the recess (open book).
1. 20m F3 17 Climb up the open book until a creeper forces you out onto a foot rail on the left wall. Traverse to the arete and climb this easily to the top of the wall.
First Ascent: Mar 1987 Ian Slatem, C Mitchell
RINGING IT DRY 17 (F3) R ** [N]
Start about 4m right of “Reign of Terror”.
1. 25m 17 F3 Follow the crack into the small downstream facing corner. At the top of this, gain the ledge on the right (beware the loose-looking block). Follow the left tending crack, break in the arete to the top.
First Ascent: May 1990 Russ Dodding, B Marcus
REIGN OF TERROR 20 (G2) R **** [N]
Takes the steep, clean face about 15m downstream of Dark Gully in Lower Tonquani, more or less opposite Effigy. Star in the middle of the face, from grassy ledge about 15m above stream.
1. 23m G2 20 Start easily up face move right to thin crack system. Follow this up and finish through small overhangs.
First Ascent: Mar 1986 AJ Smith, B O’Meara
RING OF FIRE 16 (F3) R **** [N]
Climbs the crack line left of “Reign of Terror”.
1. 25m 16 F3 Start as for “Reign of Terror” but climb up right leaning crack. Move straight up into vertical crack (recess) above and follow to top.
First Ascent: Apr 1989 Clive Curzon, Stewart Middlemiss
DIVERSION 10 (E2) R [N]
The start of the climb is about 10m downstream from Dark Gully (being the first recess past Dark Gully) with a large tree growing from its centre about 12m above the ledge.
1. 28m E1 8 Up recess past tree to wide ledge.
2. 34m E2 10 Up 6m then left 9m. Then move diagonally right and up to gain prominent open book. Ascend open book to level 4,5m below overhangs. Traverse left out to corner where two square ledges with bollards form stance.
3. 22m E1 8 Up via right hand face to broad ledge. Cross ledge and move diagonally left up face (6m) to ledge with trees. Cross and ascend behind trees to stance at top.
First Ascent: Mar 1963 M Cramphorn, I Barrow, R Blackhurst
RORTVYLER 15 (F2) R [N]
Scramble up 10m to a grassy ledge at the foot of a V-shaped open book recess about 7m downstream of Diversion. (Thus the climb is situated a little way upstream from the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction.)
1. 25m F2 15 Climb up in the recess, the crux being the smooth section at the top, (piton in place) then up, traversing right below the overhangs above and continue up to a broad grassy ledge, moving left over it to a tree belay at foot of a large slab leaning against the face.
2. 33m E3 11 Climb to top of slab, then straight up through the small overhang and over the steep rock above on excellent holds, to a ledge on the left. Continue slightly right to a large ledge. Scramble to summit.
Note: The crux section may prove easier for long people or harder for shorties!
First Ascent: Nov 1978 Kevin M Smith, C Rotteglia
ICONOCLAST 20 (G2) R *** [N]
Climb the right wall of Junction Recess. Scramble up 10m to a large grassy ledge at the base of Junction Recess proper.
1. 20m G2 20 Climb the crack system up the steep smooth wall, keeping left of the arete all the way.
First Ascent: Dec 1985 M Haffner, Kevin M Smith
BY INNOCENCE BETRAYED 22 (G3) R *** [N]
1. 20m 22 G2 Start as for “Iconoclast”. Climb to the cubby hole where two
parallel cracks run diagonally up left to the top. Climb these.
First Ascent: Jul 1989 S Evans, G Murray
JUNCTION RECESS 8 (E1) R [N]
Situated in Tonquani Kloof in the recess directly opposite the entrance of Cedarberg Kloof. Starts on the right hand side of a bushy ledge about 6m above the stream bed.
1. 23m D 7 A V-shaped chimney intersected by 3m of vertical rock leads to the first stance under overhanging rock.
2. 14m D 6 Continue up on left end of stance – 3m steep, the easier rock.
3. 15m E1 8 Up a steep slab with a strong tree near its left corner. Some 3m above the tree traverse to left off slab to good rock belay.
4. 18m E1 8 From left end of stance traverse first diagonally then horizontally on sloping footholds and sparse handholds to a rib about 12m from stance. Climb 3m up on this rib to more sloping rock where rock knobs may be used for belay. This belay is about 14m to left of stance and 6 to 8m higher.
5. 27m D 6 Over easy rock to a short chimney on the right, thence to final beacon.
Note: The rock is sound all the way and stances big enough for a party of up to seven.
First Ascent: Dec 1939 K Ruhle, E Ruhle, M Barker, H le Riche, A Dolalay, S Stickent, B Croxford
DAY TRIPPER 17 (F3) R [N]
Visible from Cedarberg are twin cracks in the right wall of Tonquani. Junction Recess follows the right one to mid-height then switches to the left one and the left wall. This route ascends the left one and right one in its upper half. Scramble 6m to a large ledge directly opposite Cedar berg entry.
1. 25m F3 17 3m left of the V-groove (Junction Recess) is an overhang which is surmounted with the aid of a tree. Step left into the left groove and follow this until one is forced out onto the slab on the left. Continue up the slab past a tree then move right to a large ledge.
2. 12m E2 10 Follow the right hand crack past a tree to a ledge on the left.
3. 43m F1 13 Climb the wall from the right end of the ledge until the crack reappears at 6m. Move right below a bush and back left into the crack above it. Continue more easily up the crack and move right to finish up the final block via a steep short crack. (This pitch may be split if required.)
First Ascent: May 1968 AD Barley, M White
PUMPING PREACHER 19 (G1) R *** [N]
Takes a left slanting fault line across the next buttress upstream from Contention Buttress, i.e about 20m downstream of Cedarberg-Tonquani junction on the true right hand side. Scramble up to shallow cave and traverse right on large blocks then ascend grassy slope for 30m to large triangular grassy ledge (cairn).
1. 35m G1 19 Ascend short open book to ledge, climb crack system in face above until able to reach a small tree. Surmount the overhang (crux) to gain the wall immediately to the left. Move diagonally up and left to gain the base of the red groove. Step right and ascend the shallow chimney above, moving left where the chimney peters out to gain a tree belay.
2. 35m E3 11 From stance move right until above a small triangular-shaped ledge (The Pulpit), ascend groove system on good holds to top. A pleasant pitch.
First Ascent: Mar 1985 AM Maddison, A Mercer
ARBATRATOR 20 (G2) R [N]
On the wall directly opposite Doppler Effect about halfway up, is a set of triangular shaped roofs with a prominent left hand tending crack system. Scramble up to the left of the crack system.
1. 30m G2 20 Move up and diagonally right onto a parallel sided chimney. Once at the top of the chimney traverse around the corner to a corner under a large roof. Follow the crack system through the roof to a good ledge of the left.
2. 30m F3 17 Follow the diagonal crack system for about 3m then move up and right to a set of roofs. Move through the roof to the top of the cliff.
First Ascent: Jan 1986 Paul Schlotfeldt, G Graafland, Chris Lomax
REVELATION 19 (G1) R [N]
Takes a diagonal left-slanting line across Contention Buttress which is situated 40m downstream of the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction on the true right bank, opposite Doppler Effect. Scramble up 20m to the left, past a large cave, onto a good ledge in the corner.
1. 30m E2 10 Up the corner for 4m. Traverse right for 6m. Up the ridge to a belay ledge below a reddish wall on the front of the buttress.
2. 18m G1 19 Follow the thin left-slanting crack across the red face exiting left with difficulty to a small ledge and bush. From here either go left and steeply up to a large ledge (F2 15) or climb the overhanging chimney to the right (F2 15) to the same ledge.
3. 12m F1 13 Climb the steep, fist-width crack on the left to a large ledge.
4. 30m F2 15 Climb the wall behind the pinnacle and up through a small wide open book at top left. Cross the ledge and climb the final wall via a corner on the right.
First Ascent: Mar 1985 AM Maddison, AJ Mercer
NO MAN’S LAND 15 (F2) R [N]
About 50m downstream of the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction there is a prominent 20m grey face on the true right hand side, up which runs a slightly irregular crack. Gunfire starts up the bushy gully to the left of the face.
Scramble up to belay on a ledge 3m above the river, at the foot of easier rock leading up to the face.
1. 30m F2 15 Climb easily up to the shallow recess capped by an overhang, at the lower left hand corner of the face. Move through the overhang using a small, hopefully well-jammed, block and continue up, bearing slightly right, to a good stance at the apex of the face. The crack running up the face is necessary only for runners.
2. 40m E3 11 Climb over/around the huge blocks to a platform 7m above. Climb the small face to gain the easy arete which leads pleasantly to the top.
First Ascent: Feb 1980 Kevin M Smith, M Mears, R van Dijk
CANNON FODDER 10 (E2) R *** [N]
The route follows an obvious gently leaning open book, opposite a deep cleft mentioned under Gunfire. Start as for Broadside by scrambling up to a platform above the cave.
1. 45m E2 10 Follow open book to top moving left beneath the overhang. It is generally best to use the large holds on the left wall to begin.
First Ascent: Jun 1985 AJ Mercer, AM Mercer
GUNFIRE 11 (E3) R * [N]
This climb commences about 50m below the junction of Cedarberg and Tonquani Kloofs. The route ascends the lowermost downstream of three reddish buttresses and is directly opposite a deep cleft on the other side of the kloof. On the left hand side of the buttress a recessed gully leads easily up from stream bed.
Ascending this gully it becomes cavernous and closed in by the right hand wall. After a scramble of about 22m up this gully traverse out right on to buttress (D) and at a small grass ledge climb up 9m to top of buttress. From here ascend diagonally left up towards the left hand flank of buttress (E2 10) and climb obvious recess to top (E3 11).
First Ascent: 1952 S Penny, R Kinsley, S Patchitt, F Petousis
TAKE FIVE 8 (E1) R *** [N]
Climbs a very clean, easy-angled recess extending the height of the right hand side of the kloof, about 50m downstream of the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction. Scramble about 30m up from the stream (as for Gunfire) to where the gully becomes cavernous. Sneak behind chockstones at the back to emerge at the base of the final recess.
1. 45m E1 8 Climb up in the corner. Move left beneath the roof at the top and continue up to belay on easy ground.
First Ascent: Sep 1986 M Smith, Kevin M Smith
ROLEX 15 (F2) R [N]
Upstream from The Hourglass is a gully. The route starts up a prominent recess a short distance upstream from the gully.
1. 28m F1 13 Climb recess to overhang. Gain ledge to right of overhang and up continuation recess to large grassy ledge, just above first wadepool.
2. 25m F2 15 From behind a tree at the back of the large ledge and slightly to the right of the top of pitch 1, climb a corner to gain a ledge of about 6m and continue up face generally climbing slightly right to ledge.
3. 25m E3 11 Move up crack slightly left and up easy rock to top.
First Ascent: Feb 1975 Paul Fatti, Art McGarr
BUMPING WEIGHT TOSSER 20 (G2) R *** [N]
Directly opposite Oedipus Sunday is an obvious open book capped by an overhang with the open book continuing above.
1. 28m F1 13 As for pitch 1 of Rolex to the large grassy ledge, or traverse right from the easy gully on the left.
2. 20m F1 13 Ascend face directly below open book to ledge.
3. 25m G2 20 Climb open book to ledge.
4. 25m F1 13 Traverse left from the ledge for 3m to gain a second ledge, climb pleasantly to top.
Note: The continuation of the open book above pitch 3 would provide a more athletic finish, but to date remains an interesting problem.
First Ascent: Sep 1985 AM Maddison, AJ Mercer, C Ward
RASTAFARIAN 19 (G1) R [N]
Immediately downstream of the first wade pool in Lower Tonquani (below Tonquani/Cedarberg junction) scramble up gully on right hand side. Scramble to the right to high ledges (about 45m above stream) at base of wall.
1. 35m G1 19 Climb easily up to base of obvious steep crack. Climb obvious line through small roof to ledge on right. Climb wall on right to top. (Alternatively finish up continuation crack 23 H1 C Edelstein)
First Ascent: 1985 Ian Slatem, J Brown
DECADENCE 22 (G3) R ** [N]
Situated 8 metres upstream of the first wade pool encountered downstream from the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction. Two thin cracklines a few feet apart run up the centre of a steep smooth slab, at the base of which two large trees are growing.
1. 10m G3 22 Start next to the upstream tree and climb directly up the slab, following the left crackline.
Note: The protection is thin.
First Ascent: Jun 1987 Kevin M Smith, George Mallory, Charles Edelstein
MUNYE INJA 16 (F2) R * [N]
Starts above first wade pool going down Tonquani from the Tonquani/Cedarberg junction i.e.30m upstream of Hourglass on the same side.
1. 25m F2 16 Climb the square cut recess past an overhang and continue up chimney/crack to ledge system, traverse right for 7m. (This is the first pitch of Streamline. Non-plagiarists can choose a variety of less pleasant routes up to this ledge).
2. 38m F2 15 Climb up to the left leaning crack/recess and follow this feature to the top.
First Ascent: Jan 1986 Stewart Middlemiss, Mike Cartwright
STREAMLINE 17 (F3) R [N]
The climb is situated in Lower Tonquani on the right hand side (facing downstream) about 90m downstream from the Cedarberg kloof junction, just next to a pool which is at times awkward to cross.
Scramble up a square recess to a big sloping vegetated ledge. At the back of this is a crack.
1. 20m F3 17 Climb the crack past a small roof and continue up the now overhanging crack to a tree belay.
2. 40m D 7 Continue up the recess to a large ledge and traverse diagonally right (10m) to a gap behind a gendarme. Up this and the recess above to a very bushy stance.
3. 12m D 7 From the left hand side of the stance climb the face to the top.
First Ascent: Jun 1980 S Akers, M Brunke, W Vormbaum
SWANSONG 15 (F2) R [N]
The route ascends the wall immediately right of Hourglass. Start below the Hourglass immediately downstream of a pool.
1. 25m F2 15 Follow a ramp diagonally up right to its top. Traverse diagonally left (6m) and ascend the wall directly below the tree (crux). Move above the tree onto a small stance. Peg belays 2m above.
2. 28m F1 13 Ascend the wall directly above the stance. Continue up 5m to the left of a groove onto a small column. Step right off the top into the groove and continue up to block belays.
First Ascent: Sep 1969 AD Barley, Miss M van Steenderen, AC Cameron, BF Honey
XTACY 17 (F3) R **** [N]
The climb follows a line 4m to the right of Hourglass. It has a common stance with Hourglass in the narrowest section of the Hourglass (which can be reached by starting below the Hourglass, following a left tending groove till a large tree (14m 6 D), then traversing right into the Hourglass (6m E), to a peg belay).
1. 25m F3 17 Climb 2m up inside the Hourglass until a handrail on the upstream wall of the Hourglass is reached. Follow this round the corner, onto the face, for a further 3m. Then trend up and left until level with the top of Hourglass. Traverse 2m left to the base of the crack. This will be directly above the stance. Excellent climbing then follows the crack for about 13m to the top of the face.
First Ascent: Apr 1985 K Kruger, M Giddy
A BRIEF HISTORY OF TIME 24 (H1/H2) R [N]
The climb takes the slab to the right of Hourglass.
1. 25m 8 D Scramble approximately 25m up to a small triangular overhang and stance on a small ledge on the left-hand side. This is approximately halfway up the second pitch of “Hourglass”.
2. 30m 24 H1 Traverse slightly right on to the lip of the overhang and continue up the seam above to a thin rail. An interesting move establishes one in a thin crack which is climbed until a single hook move enables one to reach an excellent rail. Continue up the face and crack to top out just to the right of the overhang above.
First Ascent: Jan 1988 Jeremy Colenso, A Smith FFA: T Rogers, Jeremy Colenso
THE HOURGLASS 17 (F3) R **** [N]
Start 15m downstream of the Wading Pool below Cedarberg-Tonquani junction. About 25m up in a large triangular recess capped by a roof (The Hourglass). Scramble about 12m up to the platform and tree belays. The large recess of triangular shape lies at the back of the ledge. The climb starts at the base of a crack on the right side of the back wall of the recess.
1. 15m F2 15 Climb up the crack for about 8m. Traverse left for about 3m. Fall or lean across to opposite wall. Traverse further left for about 2,5m. Climb up about 2m to comfortable stance in narrowest past of the Hourglass. Fixed piton around corner on stream-facing wall. Alternatively, the pitch can be done by climbing the crack for about 11m, straddling across the recess and then traversing left into the constriction.
2. 22m F3 17 From the stance climb up the small face lying directly under the overhang for 2,5m. Traverse left onto the corner and straight up to level of the overhang. Alternatively climb up the face to directly under the overhang, then traverse left about 2m. Climb the prominent crack which leads vertically upwards through the face for about 15m to a large tree belay jutting out from stance at the top.
Scramble 30m over broken rock to the top.
A variation pitch to the left of the first pitch was climbed by J Anderson and P Venter on 10.11.68.
First Ascent: Dec 1968 P Venter, J Anderson (Pitch 1) Jan 1969 RP Barley, AD Barley (Pitch 2)
Climbs the slab to the left of “Hourglass’s” top pitch.
1. 25m 19 G1 Climb straight up the middle of the slab.
First Ascent: 1988 A Smith, B O’ Meara
TIME IN A BOTTLE 21 (G2) R ** [N]
Start a few metres downstream from “Hourglass”.
1. 15m 21 G2 Climb more or less straight up the centre of the slab, stepping left about halfway up. Continue diagonally right to reach a ledge at the top right corner of the slab.
Note: A good set of small wires will be useful.
First Ascent: Apr 1989 M Smith, Kevin M Smith
GROTTO BUTTRESS 13 (F1) R [N]
Located about 15m downstream from Hourglass and just above a second large deep wading pool. The climb is on an obvious ridge, the first below Hourglass.
1. 12m E1 8 Scramble 3m to grassy ledge, on left side of which is a right-angled “book”. Ascend book and face 9m to very large cave with a vertical rock column on the mouth. Block belay.
2. 12m F1 13 Ascend blocks on left side of cave mouth for 6m. Continue 4,5m up face, then traverse right 3m and into a chink in the corner of the ridge. Climb through chink to good ledge. Tree belay.
3. 25m E2 10 Ascend open book 6m to ledge and continue up front of ridge to small pinnacle with large chock stone. Block belay.
4. 22m E2 10 Climb pinnacle and over chockstone. Continue up ridge to base of smooth chimney. This may be avoided by going up the ridge to the right (10 E2). Alternatively climb the chimney (15 F2).
First Ascent: Apr 1970 Merv Prior, R Green
WAR OF THE PEOPLE 21 (G2) R [N]
About 300m downstream of Tonquani/Cedarberg junction in Lower Tonquani is a “fallacross” tree. 10m upstream of this is a large flat top boulder. On right hand side a steep wall is present. Two cracks run up this wall. Scramble up to base of steep wall.
1. 35m G2 21 Make a hard move up and right to the base of the right hand crack system. Climb this, with a hard move about 10m up, to under a roof, climb past roof to easier ground above.
First Ascent: 1985 Ian Slatem, J Brown, Paul Schlotfeldt
JUST HOT 23 (H1) R **** [N]
Situated past some wading pools about 60m downstream of Hourglass, just before a couple of tree trunks spanning the kloof over a wade pool. Easily recognisable as a smooth face on the right.The climb follows the left fault line on the face.
1. 35m H1 23 Scramble to the base of the undercut face. Climb to in-situ micro and then climb delicately to obvious jugs following the hairline cracks (23 H1) or step out right, up and left (21 G2).Follow the left hand crack to the bolt and then awkwardly up (22 G3) to jug.Continue strenuously up superb crack with a desperate exit to the right.From here easy climbing leads to a ledge.Scramble out to the right.
Note: Be careful – this one bites.
First Ascent: Nov 1985 D Neethling, Ian Guest, Tim Hoole
STEPPING RAZORS 20 (G2) R ** [N]
Just downstream of War of The People a tree lies across the kloof (at a wade pool) against a buttress with gullies up either side. There is a small cave about 8m up on the right. Above this is a wall with a thin crack leading up to a roof about 3m up.
1. 25m G2 20 Climb up easily to the first roof. Pull through this onto the face. Climb the thin crackline above past two cruxes and then pull fairly strenuously through the middle of the roof above via the small ‘recess’. Scramble to the top.
Note: Pro is excellent. There is a descent down the gully upstream of War of The People or, alternatively, traverse left and scramble down to gully from top of the hard climbing.
First Ascent: Mar 1987 Ian Slatem, J Brown, C Mitchell, D Young
DANGER ZONE 21 (G2) R * [N]
15 meters downstream of the ‘fallacross’ tree in Lower Tonquani (and therefore about 15 metres upstream of Old Man’s Exit) is a smooth shallow recess on the true right. Scramble up this break which becomes a narrow gully with an overhanging upstream wall. Walk up over blocky debris to where the gully steepens. The route follows the obvious steep recess in the upstream wall, starting next to a small tree.
1. 17m G2 21 Climb the recess.
Note: It is advisable for the belayer to creep into the cubbyhole just left of the start, as some of the holds on the pitch sound hollow.
First Ascent: May 1987 Kevin M Smith
WELCOME TO THE PLEASURE DOME 10 (E2) R *** [N]
Climbs the obvious break immediately upstream of “The Scream of the Butterfly”, i.e. about 5m downstream of the “Old Man’s Exit” liana.
1. 35m 11 E2 Climb diagonally right to gain the base of the break. Follow this and the immaculate smooth open-book to reach ledges.
2. 35m 9 D Climb easily to the summit.
First Ascent: Apr 1989 Kevin Smith, M Smith
THE SCREAM OF THE BUTTERFLY 21 (G2) R * [N]
Climbs the smooth face starting at stream level immediately upstream of the “Rastaman Vibration” gully on the true right side of the kloof (i.e. about 8m downstream of the “Old Man’s Exit”).
1. 15m 21 G2 Climb straight up the middle of the slab to reach a ledge.
First Ascent: Apr 1989 Kevin M Smith, M Smith
RASTAMAN VIBRATION 20 (G2) R [N]
Just downstream of the “fallacross” tree in Lower Tonquani is a prominent gully on the right hand side. The route takes the obvious steep left tending crack up the downstream facing wall.
1. 25m G2 20 Climb the crack to a ledge.
2. 40m F3 17 Climb left out of cubbyhole then steeply initially to a large ledge. Walk left, step across a recess to climb the attractive rib above.
First Ascent: 1985 J Brown, Ian Slatem
ROLLING STONE BUTTRESS 17 (F3) R [N]
Start about 70m below Hourglass. An easily recognisable feature is a deep recess which ends on an overhang.
1. 9m D 6 Scramble to a ledge backed by a deep cave.
2. 12m F3 17 Ascend chimney in the left corner of the ledge for 4,5m then using layback and handjam technique, continue up narrow crack to the ceiling. (Nut and chockstone belays.)
3. 15m F3 17 Descend 3m then traverse 3,5m past first book recess to the right and into a second (a nut runner may be placed high up in the first). Ascend strenuous 8m through the overhang and continue 6m up face to ledge below smooth open book with 75mm crack in corner. Chockstone belay.
4. 25m F3 17 Ascend crack 4,5m using handjams then move right onto ridge. Continue 15m up face to top.
First Ascent: Apr 1970 M Prior, R Green
PROTOBOLT 20 (G2) R [N]
Situated about 300m upstream of the Northern entrance to the kloof. The climb ascends a less than vertical, smooth grey face on the true right of the kloof. The face cannot be missed as two bolts are visible from the stream bed. The pitch is well protected.
1. 25m 20 G2 The climb starts below the bolts and continues directly to the top of the crag.
First Ascent: Apr 1988 T Rogers, D Rogers
UNIVERSAL SCALER 16 (F3) R ** [N]
This climb starts in the same gully as Why Bother, but on the right hand side of the gully.
1. 25m E2 10 Climb the obvious recess on the right side of the gully to a good ledge with tree belay.
2. 30m F3 16 Climb the prominent pointed face above the ledge i.e. move slightly left and follow the crack system up the face to a flake. Move up past the flake and continue up easier rock to top of pinnacle. Belay on a good ledge to right of top of pinnacle.
Note: A pleasant exposed climb on good rock. A further pitch may be added by traversing left for 10m, and following the obvious line to the top (E3). Alternatively descend into gully by traversing left further, or scramble directly above the ledge to the top of the cliff face.
First Ascent: May 1986 Darryl Margetts, R Brand
WHY BOTHER ! 15 (F2) R [N]
About 150m upstream of the second wade pool that is found when entering from the lower end of Tonquani kloof (i.e. Utopia), a small gully is encountered on the true right. A large tree is found at the entrance of the gully.
1. 20m E2 10 Climb the short face on the left (Facing inward) of the gully. Continue up easier rock and traverse left to the base of the prominent square buttress.
2. 20m F2 15 Climb the crack system on the right of the square buttress to a small overhang, pull through the overhang and move right to easier rock. Continue past a good ledge up to a large grassy ledge. Scramble to top.
First Ascent: May 1986 R Brand, Darryl Margetts
INCONSEQUENTIAL 15 (F2) R [N]
Walking in from Utopia, this climb starts just downstream of the second large wade pool at the lower end of Tonquani kloof. It starts on the face just downstream of the short descent/ascent to bypass the second wade pool, and climbs the prominent buttress to the top of the cliff face.
1. 30m F2 15 Start just next to tree at base of short downstream decent/ascent to bypass the second wade pool. Climb diagonally left at first, then straight up to base of large square buttress. Ascend buttress moving to left arete at approximately mid-height. Continue to top of buttress.
First Ascent: May 1986 Darryl Margetts, R Brand
DENNIS THE MENACE 22 (G3) L * [N]
This route starts about 2m to the left of the start of Gnasher at the obvious crack.
1. 23m G1 19 Climb the awkward crack moving left at the top to reach the large belay ledge of Gnasher.
2. 20m G3 22 Above the belay ledge is a vertical wall split by some cracks. Climb the cracks until near the top where a step left can be made to a foot ledge. Pull up on jugs to ledge. A very sustained pitch. Protection is excellent (if you have the strength to put it in).
3. 26m F1 13 Move right from the ledge onto the arete and climb arete to a scoop near the top. Pull over to belay.
First Ascent: Jul 1982 N Cleaver, A Wood, P Leicesz (With resting on pitch 2)
GNASHER 19 (G1) L *** [N]
Start directly opposite Boulder Kloof on the true left hand side of Tonquani. Seen from halfway up Boulder Kloof the route takes a line up a thin crack on a pinkish face. Scramble up a gully from the stream bed, then move out left and up easy rock. Traverse back right to a bushy ledge.
1. 15m F2 15 From the ledge climb a corner until possible to traverse left. Move up to an overhanging wall and continue traversing left to a good ledge.
2. 23m G1 19 Traverse back right under overhanging wall. Move up through a break in the wall to a small corner. Skip up into the bigger corner above. Step over into a crack running up the face. Zip up this to an easier break and continue up, moving out right near the top to a good ledge.
Climb pitch 2 for 18m, where it is possible to move 2m right to belay ledge (tree and block).
3. 22m G1 19 Continue as the normal route but then move left below the large overhang. From a pedestal below the roof climb the roof crack (exposed).
First Ascent: Jun 1981 A Lambert, A Wood, C Ward Jul 1982 J Holding, K Jones (Direct Finish)
THE DANDY 19 (G1) L *** [N]
The climb starts from the broad ledge 15m right of Gnasher and Dennis The Menace, and is directly in line with the lower part of Boulder kloof. The climb (marked by cairn) starts in a vague recess and follows a slanting crack, followed by a series of small step-like ledges which tend right.
1. 20m G1 19 Straddle up the recess to the base of the slanting crack, move right then up to gain the horizontal break. Traverse left to above the crack and ascend the step-like ledges to the top.
First Ascent: Sep 1986 PS Greenfield, Russ Dodding, Tim P Willmot
POINT BLANK 18 (F3) L *** [N]
At the junction of Boulder Kloof and Lower Tonquani is the “lunch rock”, 14m downstream of this rock is an obvious diagonal crack splitting the steep wall.
1. 15m F3 18 Climb the crack to a tree.
First Ascent: Jul 1986 Russ Dodding, Tim P Willmot
ASCENSION PARTING 8 (E1) L [N]
The climb commences about 30m below Boulder Kloof on the left side.
1. 25m C 5 Traverse diagonally up to the right over a series of ledges for 15m and then move about 9m to the left on grassy ledge to a tree just below a broad rock ledge.
2. 20m D 7 Climb to this ledge and continue up recessed face to another ledge.
3. 18m D 7 Straight up to another broad grassy ledge.
4. 22m D 7 Move left to where a huge flake has split away from the face. Up 3m on side of flake and via a traverse climb on to top of flake.
5. 15m E1 8 From flake move onto main face and continue to top.
First Ascent: May 1963 JP Heuston, TE Thomlinson, HJ Grissen, KA Wright
ONE PURL, ONE PLAIN 17 (F3) L [N]
Situated about 20 metres upstream of Pullman i.e. opposite Zebop and Can Can. Scramble up gully to ledge with downstream-facing corner on its’ left hand end.
1. 30m F3 17 Climb the corner to easier ground (F2 from 20 metres), then move up to the right to a large ledge with trees.
2. 30m F1 14 Climb body width chimney for 20 metres to top of large buttress. Climb face behind to top. (Ascension Parting takes the front of this buttress.)
First Ascent: Dec 1986 B Slater, Stewart Middlemiss
PARTY ANIMAL 22 (G3) L * [N]
Upstream and around the corner from “Big Dreamers Never Die”. Starts at stream level.
1. 15m 22 G3 Climb the crack.
First Ascent: Apr 1988 Stewart Middlemiss, Kevin M Smith, Jeremy Colenso
BIG DREAMERS NEVER DIE 23 (H1) L [N]
10m upstream of the “Diagonal Street” wall there is an overhanging buttress split by twin cracks.
1. 25m 23 H1 Start off a detached block, rail slightly left to the arete before climbing the obvious open book to a bus-stop ledge on the right. Continue up the twin cracks to the top.
First Ascent: Jan 1988 Jeremy Colenso
WALL STREET 22 (G3) L **** [N]
Starts 10m left (upstream) of “Diagonal Street”. Scramble up 10m as for Diagonal Street, then move left and scramble up onto some blocks below a steep wall with a crack system splitting it.
1. 20m 22 G3 Climb the crack to the top. Belay and abseil off the tree on the ledge.
First Ascent: Nov 1987 Stewart Middlemiss
PULLMAN 17 (F3) L * [N]
The climb is located about 50m downstream of the Boulder Tonquani junction. A feature is a very prominent 25m vertical crack starting 45m above the stream bed and topped by a massive triangular nose pointing up the kloof.
1. 18m F2 15 Move up right side of recess for about 3m then left into the recess and up to stance at top of crack.
2. 28m E2 10 Up 9m diagonally right up obvious crack to ledge below main crack.
3. 18m F3 17 Move up crack by wedging and laybacking. Ascend on to grassy ledge at the level of the afore mentioned nose.
4. 12m E2 10 Climb to right until on immediate left of nose, then vertically to large ledge. Continue up corner of large block.
First Ascent: Nov 1963 M Cramphorn, P Venter
ICARUS ALLSORTS 19 (G1) L ** [N]
The objective is the headwall which is the stream-facing wall of the Pullman nose. Scramble up to start of Pullman’s third pitch and move to the right below an open book of dark rock.
1. 15m F2 16 Ascend the open book, passing a small bush near its’ base. Make an awkward move left at the top and then follow the cracked ramp right to a tree belay.
2. 35m G1 19 On the headwall above are two faint cracklines/weaknesses. Step off the block next to the tree and gain the right hand weakness. Ascend slightly right to gain the ledge above. Follow the obvious line of weakness above to a broad ledge and continue to top.
First Ascent: Dec 1986 Russ Dodding, Stewart Middlemiss
WIG WAM 13 (F1) L [N]
Start just to the left of Effigy, at junction of Tonquani and Cedarberg Kloofs.
1. 25m F1 13 Climb face to tree and from here move up an awkward bulge to another tree below an overhang. Climb up to overhang and turn to left round tricky corner and on up to tree belay.
2. 30m E2 10 Move to corner at right and climb first few metres in the corner them move out right and around to easy rock. Continue up easy rock to good stance with tree.
3. 30m E1 8 Ascend the face directly above to large platform.
4. 14m E3 11 From this platform move onto the pinnacle which has a lovely face. This gives a very pleasant good clean face pitch. The route follows more or less the centre of the face to the top.
First Ascent: Feb 1968 JE Stapley, Mrs RL Stapley, H van Peipen, Mrs S van Peipen
DIAGONAL STREET 21 (G2) L **** [N]
Takes the slab to the left of “Effigy”. Scramble up about 15m.
1. 20m 21 G2 Climb up to the slab and move on to it. Climb up the slab past the bolt.
First Ascent: 1986 A Smith
WELCOME BACK TO REALITY 23 (H1) L *** [N]
1. 10m 23 H1 Above the “Diagonal Street” wall is a short bolted face, climb up the centre.
First Ascent: Jun 1988 Jeremy Colenso
EFFIGY 18 (F3) L *** [N]
The start is situated about 8m to the left of Junction Corner.
1. 15m F1 13 Move diagonally up left over broken face to good ledge with tree. (This involves an awkward mantle shelf move.)
2. 12m F3 18 From left hand end of ledge move 4,5m up recess to square ceiling. Using fistjam/layback technique climb up 90 degree open book to wide ledge.
3. 30m E3 11 Scramble up 4,5m then move left around corner. Up 6m of broken portion of steep face to larger ledge. Walk left 4,5m along ledge and climb diagonally right up ramp to top.
First Ascent: Oct 1966 Paul Fatti, M Makowski, J Anderson
CONCEPTION 13 (F1) L [N]
Start 3m upstream of Cedarberg-Tonquani Junction behind a large square block.
1. 15m E3 11 Move up left 4,5m and up a handjam crack bearing right to a triangular ledge. Ascend the groove behind to a small overhang, step left into a flake crack which is followed to a large ledge and tree belay.
2. 12m F1 13 From the right end of the ledge ascend a sharp edged crack. Make an awkward move over a detached block up left to gain a chimney and ledge above. Chockstone belay behind and large block belay.
3. 28m D 7 Up left to a large tree then up the rib on the left and over detached blocks. Continue up to a ledge and tree belay. 15m of scramble to the top.
First Ascent: 1968 H Graafland, Mrs G Graafland
IVORY MADONNA 25 (H2) L ** [N]
At the same level as the start of Doppler Effect walk about 30m left along the grass ledge to a large flat good bivi ledge (lizard ledge), to the left of this is a overhanging face with a crack up the centre which fades away after 7m.
1. 15m H2 25 Climb the crack to its top, and at this level move up to the right arete which is climbed to the top (do not move around the corner i.e.stay on the arete).
Note: A peg was pre placed near the top of the right arete. Opened with many falls over many days. It was abseil inspected but not top roped prior to first ascent. Second used 2 points of aid.
First Ascent: Apr 1986 Neil Margetts, Darryl Margetts
ONYX MAN 20 (G2) L ** [N]
Climbs the left wall of “Teddy Bears’ Picnic” (i.e. Between the chimney and “Ivory Madonna”).
1. 15m 20 G2 Climb straight up the face past the bolt to the peg. Move left onto the arete and continue up to the tree belay.
First Ascent: Feb 1989 Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers, A Margetts, T Truter
TEDDYBEARS PICNIC 18 (G1) L [N]
This climb starts about 10m upstream of Breakfast In Bed.
1. 20m E1 11 Scramble up nondescript rock to large flat ledge with steep overhanging face on left.
2. 15m G1 18 Climb chimney/crack to right of steep overhanging face with crack up centre. The crux is near the top.
Note: Being small may be an advantage, but opening party managed even though they both were taller than 1,92m. i.e.grade is G1 for larger persons and as easy as F2 for smaller persons.
First Ascent: Mar 1986 Neil Margetts, Darryl Margetts
LIZARD 24 (H1/H2) L *** [N]
Takes the line to the left of “Victim of Circumstance”.
1. 20m 24H1/H2 Climb up to the ledge and then move diagonaly right to the flared crack. (Rock 1). Move up to the bolt on the left and make a difficult move to the rail. It is possible to rail left and exit at this stage. Alternatively, (difficult) climb directly up from the rail to gain a small ledge. Scramble off to the left or wander up the unappealing face above.
First Ascent: Feb 1990 Martin Seegers, Darryl Margetts
VICTIM OF CIRCUMSTANCE 25 (H2) L *** [N]
Takes a line up the centre of the wall to the left of “Reggae Music”.
1. 20m 25 H2 Climb up to the ledge and gain the flared crack on the left side of the scooped face. (Rock 1 or better still a Choinard 3). Up this to a bolt on the right. Continue diagonally right up to a rail. Then up and back left to a groove which is followed up to a ledge on the left.
First Ascent: May 1989 Mike Hislop
REGGAE MUSIC 20 (G2) L *** [N]
30m downstream from Tonquani/Cedarberg junction on the true left. Scramble up to ledges 20m above river.
1. 25m G2 20 Two cracks 1m apart converge higher up into one, forming a small open book. Climb this.
First Ascent: 1985 J Brown, Ian Slatem
SLEDGEHAMMER 23 (H1) L ** [N]
Climbs the face and overhanging headwall to the right of “Reggae Music”.
1. 10m 23 H1 Climb the middle of the face avoiding all contact with either arete, to the blocky ledge.
2. 15m 23 H1 Climb the overhanging face above to ledge and tree belay.
First Ascent: Jan 1988 Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers
MANTLESHELF 15 (F2) L ** [N]
This route starts 10m left of Grill.
1. 18m E1 8 Ascend a vague recess with a series of narrow ledges forcing one diagonally right until a 60 to 90 cm wide ledge below an overhang is reached.
2. 15m F2 15 Ascend the break through the overhang at the left end of the ledge. (Grill passes through a break to the right.)
3. 12m E2 10 A long walk up and left leads to a red open book. Ascend this feature in the corner.
First Ascent: Jun 1960 T Kerrick, K Hahlo
BLACK SURVIVOR 16 (F3) L * [N]
This climb starts in the steep recess 5m to the left of the start of Doppler Effect.
1. 25m F3 16 Climb up steep overhanging recess for 5m (crux), continue up and traverse right 5m, then continue up easier stepped face to ledge below overhang.
2. 20m E2 10 Moving right continue up face to left of Doppler Effect, finish up off-width crack.
Note: Protection good on crux (pitch 1), but is sparse higher up.
First Ascent: Apr 1986 Darryl Margetts, N Margetts
GRILL 11 (E3) L [N]
This climb is best located in relation to Hotplate. To the left of that climb there is a smooth whitish slab about 30m long. The route initially ascends the more climbable rock on the left of the slab.
1. 18m E3 11 Ascend stepped face which sometimes offers small grips. Stance is on 60cm wide ledge.
2. 15m E2 10 Traverse right to end of ledge. This brings one to the top of the white slab. Ascend recess through the overhang to wide ledge. Tree belay.
3. 18m E3 11 Move right on to ridge. An awkward start leads to a steep section with good grips.
First Ascent: Nov 1959 Merv Prior, S Perry
RATTLE AND HUM 21 (G2) L *** [N]
Starts 3m to the left of “Doppler effect”.
1. 35m 21 G2 Climb the face up to and directly past the bolt to the small ledge (crux), avoiding the left edge completely. Continue up the arete to the top of the crag, finishing up a short chimney left of the line taken by “Doppler effect”.
Note: If the climber traverses onto the arete on the left the crux is avoided and the overall grade of the climb drops to 18 (F3).
First Ascent: Dec 1988 Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers
THE DOPPLER EFFECT 21 (G3) L ***** [N]
About 40m below the junction of Tonquani and Cedarberg kloofs on the left hand side one encounters a large overhanging section at the top of the kloof. Below this is an obvious large left tending open book. The route takes the open book which forms the upper two-thirds of the cliff. Scramble 15m up from stream to grassy ramp to foot of open book. Scramble easy rock for 10m, where rock steepens climb right to good stance.
1. 40m G3 21 From stance climb slightly down left and into open book. Climb open book using thin crack in corner, where the wall starts to overhang and the crack runs out use strenuous bridging technique to surmount bulge (21 G3). Climb more easily up crack system until forced left by small overhang (G1). Traverse a few metres left out of open book and climb more easily to top.
Note: Technical climbing on excellent rock.
2. 15m G2 20 Climb obvious jam-crack to right of belay, stepping right onto the face where the crack finishes. Climb face to ledge and another short face to gain break.
First Ascent: Feb 1980 M Fagan, J Brown, A Lambert, T O’Connor Variation: Oct 1986 C Lomax, A Smith, M Haffner
SURVIVAL 24 (H2) L *** [N]
Start about 3m right of Doppler Effect.
1. 30m G1 18 From ledges climb crack in buttress, continue up face to mega ledge below pink stepped overhangs.
2. 18m H2 24 Climb pink stepped overhangs steeply to a rail and peg at the level of small overhang on left. Climb 2m up very steep rock and make wild moves left to a ledge system.
3. 15m G1 19 Climb the steep wall above, initially in the middle, then right to arete and back left to top.
First Ascent: 1985 J Brown, Ian Slatem
HOTPLATE 15 (F2) L * [N]
The climb is about 45m downstream of the junction of Cedarberg with Tonquani Kloof, immediately upstream of a deep recess or cleft in the wall of the kloof.
1. 12m F2 15 Up a face on the left of some loose-looking blocks for 8m, then left over these blocks to a stance below a large crack.
2. 25m F1 13 Up the chimney for 3m then traverse to right for 3m then up to large blocks.
2. ?m F2 15 Continue on up the chimney. When almost at top move out left and make an awkward move over a somewhat bulging face, to reach easier rock and the finish.
First Ascent: 1951 S Penny, D Penny, E Rudnick
POSITIVELY 4TH STREET 18 (F3) L *** [N]
This climb is situated downstream of Doppler Effect in the huge chimney recess about 15m to the right of Reign of Fire.
1. 25m 18 F3 Climb the crack system on the left hand wall of the huge recess/chimney (looking inward) i.e. climb the cracks to the overhang, pull through small overhang, traverse left for about 1m then continue up to ledge just above tree.
2. 25m F1 13 Move up recess behind stance for 1 to 2m then move right onto exposed nose of buttress. Continue up for about 5m exiting right to tree belay.
Note: Very pleasant route on good rock, good exposure on second pitch. For descent abseil off good tree at top of second pitch (one 45m abseil sufficient).
First Ascent: Oct 1986 Darryl Margetts, N Antoncich, G Margetts
FIVE FINGER FINALE 20 (G2) L *** [N]
Located in the deep recess just downstream of Doppler Effect, opposite A Question of Balance and to the right of a bulge in a vague buttress, there being an initial crack system in the lower part of the buttress, a large tree 25m above and it is topped by a large reddish coloured buttress which is undercut on its’ arete. Also, there are prominent crack systems to the left and right of the climbs’ start.
1. 25m G2 20 Climb the centre of the buttress and the bulge (crux), moving left higher up to seek protection on the ledge/arete. Continue up the buttress to the large tree above and stance.
2. 25m G2 20 Move left to below the crack system on the reddish coloured face of the buttress that faces the kloof. Climb the crack which is about 2m left of the arete. Where the crack finishes traverse 2m left and ascend to the top over steps and ledges keeping to the left at the very top, where good climbing prevails. Belay on ledge/ tree.
First Ascent: Jun 1987 PS Greenfield, Russ P Dodding
A QUESTION OF BALANCE 21 (G2) L ** [N]
Scramble up the large gully about 10m downstream of The Doppler Effect. Start at the base of a dark blocky buttress just left of prominent white roots.
1. 20m G2 21 Climb the crack up the front of the buttress to a blocky ledge. Move left to the arete, and climb up this until able to climb diagonally right to leges.
2. 20m G2 20 Climb up to the right hand side of the long narrow roof above. Undercling to the left end of the roof, pull through, and climb up slightly right to belay.
First Ascent: Jan 1986 Charles Edelstein, Kevin M Smith
THIEVING MAGPIE 17 (F3) L *** [N]
50m downstream from the Cedarberg Tonquani junction is a deep cleft leading up to a large cavern. In the right hand wall of the cavern an obvious open book can be seen, containing a very smooth right hand wall.
1. 20m F1 13 Ascend open book to stance, passing an old rusty peg of unknown origin.
2. 20m F3 17 Continue awkwardly up the open book until able to reach more positive holds, and eventually the right hand arete. Ascend arete to stance on narrow ledge beneath an overhang.
3. 20m F2 15 Climb up to overhang, pass overhang using large holds on the lip, ascend easier rock to top.
Note: A pleasant route on clean rock.
First Ascent: Jun 1985 AM Maddison, AJ Mercer
CHEVALIER D’INDUSTRIE 17 (F3) L *** [N]
The route takes the open book immediately left of Thieving Magpie, then traverses left to gain the crack extending up from the roof of the cavern.
1. 30m F3 17 Ascend the obvious open book easily at first, increasing in difficulty towards the top. Traverse left 6m to gain a ledge below the main crack with fine views of the cave roof and floor below.
2. 25m F3 17 Climb chimney until forced out by a narrow section, then straddle and jam up the crack to a good tree belay.
Note: Good varied climbing on solid rock.
First Ascent: Jul 1985 AM Maddison, AJ Mercer
DREAM OF WHITE LYCRA 16 (F3) L *** [N]
This climb starts about 20m downstream of Doppler Effect. Ascend a grassy recess, the climb ascends the true left edge of the buttress which forms the left wall of a deep gully ending in a cave roofed by huge crack system.
1. 25m F1 13 Climb the arete moving past a series of small ledges and a tree. Continue up to a good ledge.
2. 25m F2 15 Climb up past a tree on the arete, move left into the prominent corner. Climb the corner. Finish on easier rock to large ledge. Scramble to base of next buttress.
3. 25m F3 16 Climb up easy rock towards twin crack system. Move up to right hand crack via a short face. Ascend crack (crux) to easier rock and good ledge.
Note: A short pleasant unsustained route.
First Ascent: Jun 1986 Darryl Margetts, G Margetts, A Mercer, R Brand (Pitches1 & 2)
HAILSTORM 15 (F2) L [N]
Scramble 15m up grass band as for Hotplate but deviate right to fallen tree.
1. 15m E1 8 Ascend face in front of tree for 7m then move right along grassy ledge for 18m (bushy belay).
2. 20m F2 15 Ascend corner to right of tree for 3m then enter a cubby hole. Crawl along crack from cubby hole (left) into another cubby hole. Ascend steep face bearing right to a large ledge.
3. 30m F1 13 Ascend corner for 3m then move right around corner continuing up crack leading towards a prominent chimney. Ascend chimney moving out right at the roof.
Note: Whole climb is on very clean rock.
First Ascent: Nov 1976 G Langmore, D Prior, M Scott
BARBECUED CHICKEN 14 (F1) L *** [N]
The climb starts about 15m downstream of Hotplate. Scramble up gully for 10m then move right onto grassy ledge. Walk right, along ledge, 10m to start of climb (beacon).
1. 28m E3 13 Start in corner on upstream side of shallow (0.5m) undercut buttress. Climb 6m in corner to top of buttress then slightly right to tree. Continue right on sloping rock into corner then straight up to large ledge.
2. 30m F1 14 Climb in corner and on the upstream face of the large free-standing buttress. Step across at top of buttress onto face and continue straight up, moving slightly left in shallow crack. Belay on very large ledge.
3. 30m F1 14 Straight up in shallow corner from middle of ledge directly below prominent 90 degree open book at top of climb. Climb corner for 6m then walk right on sloping rock and climb face to tree. Behind tree straight up corner to top.
A Chickenshit mass ascent.
First Ascent: May 1987 Bernard, John, Roger, Julia, Mara, Dave, Ingrid
THE PUZZLE OF PAIN 16 (F3) L * [N]
This climb is situated about 50m downstream of Doppler Effect and starts about 10m downstream of the climb Dream of White Lyrca which climbs up the right hand side of the huge chimney/recess.
1. 30m F2 15 Climb the recess to the tree. Continue up to another ledge. Climb the steep recess with a flake on the right. Continue up easier ground to good ledge and tree belay.
2. 30m F3 16 Climb the recess to the left of the narrow chimney/crack. Continue up a crack before traversing right to the ledge at the top of chimney-crack. Climb recess above this (crux). Continue up steep rock with good holds tending slightly left.
3. 20m F1 13 Climb recess between two faces using a layback move on a large block.
First Ascent: Oct 1986 Darryl Margetts, N Antoncich, G Margetts
CANVAS AND OIL 15 (F2) L *** [N]
Starts 5m to the left of “Finger Painting the World”.
1. 30m 15 F2 Climb up the corner and into the steep recess above. Climb the recess exiting on the right arete onto a large ledge.
First Ascent: Jun 1989 Peter Lazarus, Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers
FINGER PAINTING THE WORLD 26 (H3) L **** [N]
50m downstream of the Cedarberg/Tonquani junction on the true left, is a gully. Scramble up the steep section of the gully and exit on the right (downstream) side of the gully onto a large ledge, immediately opposite the steep crack “Reign of Fire”. The route starts on the right of the ledge. The five mega bolts in a row make it very difficult to find !
1. 20m 26 H3 Join the dots, the crux move being from bolt No. 5 straight up onto the ledge. Exit off to the right and scramble down.
First Ascent: Jul 1989 Peter Lazarus
SKIRTING THE ISSUE 21 (G3) L *** [N]
1. 20m 21 G3 Follow “Finger Painting the World” to the fifth bolt and then traverse off left and onto the ledge.
First Ascent: Jun 1989 Peter Lazarus, Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers
ENGLISH OPIUM EATERS 21 (G2) L **** [N]
Ascends a steep crack just downstream of “A Dream of White Lycra”, just before you reach “Vaters Day”. Scramble up as for “Doppler Effect” but traverse right along the grass ledge for 15m. Scramble up a short recess for 5m and continue traversing to the right until an obvious crack up a steep wall can be seen above.
1. 40m 16 F3 Climb a short corner up to a ledge. Move left to the base of the crack. Make a tricky move up into an alcove and then continue up the crack to a small ledge. Climb the recess above to a ledge.
2. 20m 14 F1 Climb the face above to a ledge. Move right to a left facing corner and climb this to a large ledge with a tree belay.
3. 15m 21 G2 Climb the right facing open book using layback moves near the roof. Once at the roof step left onto the arete and move up to the left of the hanging creeper. Climb the face to the left of the creeper (using the stem) to a good ledge.
First Ascent: May 1989 Darryl Margetts, A Mercer (Pitches 1 & 2) May 1989 Darryl Margetts, A Margetts, Martin Seegers (Pitch 3)
VATERS DAY 15 (F2) L ** [N]
The route follows the obvious open book left of Jack The Ripper. Scramble up to the ledge mentioned under Oedipus Sunday and Jack The Ripper.
1. 30m F1 13 Ascend easy rock to the open book, narrow chimney, climb up to large ledge passing a small overhang near the top. Climb wall above to a large ledge on the front of a pinnacle.
2. 35m F2 15 Climb to the top of the pinnacle and ascend the wall behind. Mantleshelf onto a ledge to gain the obvious crack lapped by an overhang above, ascend crack/recess passing the overhang on the right.
First Ascent: Jun 1985 AM Maddison, R Brand
JACK THE RIPPER 21 (G2) L **** [N]
10m left of Oedipus Sunday a knife of rock (poetic license) may be seen detached from the main face for the majority of its length. The route follows the right hand side of this and then a superb parallel-sided crack above (An uncommon feature in the Magaliesberg).
1. 30m F2 15 Ascend the open book on the right hand side of the knife until forced left towards the top. Climb easier rock to stance.
2. 20m G2 21 Scramble up easy rock behind stance to gain the base of an obvious 3m parallel-sided crack (No 11 Hex or 4 Friend handy). Ascend crack to top. Follow up easy rock on left or scramble off.
First Ascent: May 1985 AM Maddison, AJ Mercer
OEDIPUS SUNDAY 17 (F3) L ** [N]
From Tonquani-Cedarberg junction looking downstream, a prominent corner may be seen on the left hand side approximately 150m away, 20m above stream level. Access to the corner may be made via a grassy gully on the left just past Doppler Effect and an easy traverse on a series of ledges.
1. 20m F3 17 Ascend the corner using the off-width crack and holds on the faces to a large tree belay.
2. 20m D 6 Scramble to top or abseil off.
First Ascent: May 1985 AM Maddison, A Mercer
EYE OF THE NEEDLE 17 (F3) L * [N]
Starts in recess approximately 10m upstream and on the opposite side to Hourglass. Scramble up recess until large cave type ledge with a 1,5m tall pillar on right hand side supporting rock above.
1. 17 F3 25m Climb up very overhanging recess,passing through eye at top to ledge with tree.
2. 13 F1 25m Move onto right hand wall and follow up to gap between two pinnacles. Climb the gap and pull up onto higher pinnacle.
First Ascent: Jan 1986 Stewart Middlemiss and I Buchel
BAZOOKA 15 (F2) L [N]
The climb follows the subsidiary buttress just to the left of that of Kamikaze and then continues up a prominent red corner to the top.
1. 25m F1 13 Start up the shallow chimney 3m left of the start of Kamikaze, and mentioned as a variation start to the latter climb. From the tree 13m up move diagonally left into a shallow open book and climb this (crux) to a stance in a small cave.
2. 15m E2 10 Traverse left for 6m to the arete and then climb straight up to a stance on the edge of a large terrace.
3. 20m F2 15 Walk to the back of the terrace and climb the prominent steep red corner to a ledge.
4. 20m F1 13 Continue up the corner to the top.
First Ascent: Feb 1975 Art McGarr, LP Fatti
JUS IN KYS OF SNYKS 16 (F2) L *** [N]
Starts 4m to the right of Crackamania.
1. 15m F2 16 Follow wide crack system to ledge.
2. 15m F2 15 Climb flake above into corner, and around small overhang to top.
First Ascent: Jan 1986 Stewart Middlemiss, I Buchel
CRACKAMANIA 21 (G2) L **** [N]
Starts in the gully to the left of Kamikaze buttress i.e.10m downstream from Hourglass on the opposite side. Scramble up to base of gully (approx E3) and follow gully to ledges below a white-streaked red wall (50m above stream bed).
1. 18m G2 20 Two cracks are visible in the wall. The route follows the right hand (right leaning) crack up to a ledge, then moves slightly left into vague cubbyhole below roof. Pull through roof (very strenuous) and climb up to ledge.
2. 20m G2 21 An immaculate crack up the left hand side of the wall is followed to a groove above, which is followed to the top.
Note: The crux of the climb is a Hornets nest 2m above the start. The inhabitants of the said nest aggressively resisted renovation/removal.
First Ascent: Feb 1986 I Buchel, Stewart Middlemiss
KAMIKAZE 19 (G1) L *** [N]
40m below the Wade Pool which is below the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction is a prominent narrow buttress capped by a prow. Gain the vegetated ledge which runs left at 6m. Start 5m left of the centre of the prow buttress.
1. 12m F1 13 Make an awkward move to surmount two rock steps in a shallow recess and continue to a tree belay on the right, below a large flake crack.
2. 12m F2 15 Move right and up right to a small ledge on the face of the buttress. Continue directly up the face to a narrow ledge and peg belay near a block at the right end.
3. 9m F3 18 Ascend the right arete a few metres and move strenuously into the groove on the right. (The belay peg was used as a foothold in opening ascent). Continue more easily up to a large ledge and belay.
4. 15m G1 19 Move up onto a block on the left arete and make a very “long” reach to a good hold. Pull up strenuously and continue up to a belay above the chimney. (The “long” reach was so long that the leader stood on his helmet to gain the height required. G2 20 without helmet?)
5. 18m F2 15 Traverse right under the prow (5m) and ascend the chimney-crack to the top.
1. Instead of pitch 1 as described ascend shallow chimney 3m further to the left.
Note: An aggressive starling who did not appreciate the presence of the leader had Kamikaze inclinations – hence the name.
First Ascent: Dec 1968 AD Barley, AC Carmen
KAZIKAMI 20 (G2) L [N]
Start at base of large narrowing dihedral left of Kamikaze. Scramble up about 20m to a ledge and a rather large tree.
1. 20m G1 19 Climb onto right wall of dihedral and climb cracks and wall past a tree up to right of Kamikaze stance with block.
2. 15m G2 20 Step left into dihedral and layaway up until you can move left onto small ledge. Climb crack to top.
First Ascent: Mar 1986 George Mallory, Ian Slatem, Clive Curson
TONQUANUS 11 (E3) L [N]
The climb as the name implies is at the bottom of Tonquani about 150m downstream of the Cedarberg junction. A few metres past a pool which occupies the kloof from wall to wall one sees a prominent prow of rock near the top of the face. The climb is slightly to the right of this feature, and commences from a wide earthy ledge about 18m above stream bed.
1. 9m E3 11 Ascend a recess to fairly large tree growing out horizontally. The pitch starts with strenuous armpulls on a root, and then continues up the left hand wall of the recess via a shallow crack.
2. 18m E2 10 The recess becomes V-shaped above and slightly overhanging. Therefore, walk out to the right on the horizontal tree and ascend the face diagonally to the right and out of the recess. Once out of the recess, the rock eases to C standard. A good ledge is reached below some red faces. Traverse left on this ledge to a belay above the previous stance.
3. 15m E3 11 Mantleshelf into a nook about 3m above the ledge. The left hand side of this nook consists of a large poised flat block. Continue up and to the left where there are two cracks leading to the top. The right hand one is of D and the left hand one of 10 E2 standard.
2. 15m G1 19 Instead of pitch 2 continue up the recess. After strenuously working up to the top, one makes a difficult pull-up on to a ledge on the left hand side. The ledge at the top of pitch 2 is reached after ascending about 3m of easy rock.
First Ascent: 1952 R Davies, J Slinger, E Lubbert Variation: Mar 1956 R Davies, R Kinsley
OLD MAN’S EXIT 10 (E2) L [N]
Too late to be included in a climbing party I wandered alone down Cedarberg and turned into Tonquani, meaning to walk out near Wei. I was wearing helmet and harness. Becoming bored with solitude and disliking winter wading I decided, though alone, to climb out of the kloof on the true left bank, when I reached the third pool to be waded below the fallen tree which spans the kloof.
1. D 7 The route begins where the black trunk of a liana, as thick as a man’s wrist, dips its roots in the water of the kloof. It runs parallel to the root for about 6m to a ledge which takes the climber left for approx. 7m.
2. D 6 From there, there is approx 12m of rock of easy D standard which is followed till one is faced by a chimney.
3. E2 10 The chimney, of approx. 4m is too narrow for normal movement and it is blocked by a chock which gives good hand-support when reached.
4. D 6 From the top of the chimney there is a further 12 to 15m of C/D rock.
5. C 5 Finally, the route moves to the right and reaches the top of 12 to 15m of easy C grade warm-red rock.
“Out of the stony rock, Bethel I raise”.
First Ascent: Aug 1983 Harry Barker