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Trident


Hector Pringle on The Empire Strikes Back (23) at Trident Kloof, Magaliesberg. Photo by: Alasdair Walton

Hector Pringle on The Empire Strikes Back (23) at Trident Kloof, Magaliesberg. Photo by: Alasdair Walton

There are about 110 traditional climbs here. The grades vary from  itch routes but generally of very high quality. The grades vary from 6 to 23.

The kloof is correctly known as Cavern Kloof, but the name Trident has become more popularly used. The walk in is almost level into a wide kloof with beautiful large trees and a small stream. The area contains an excellent range of all grades, with fairly good clean rock. The meet point is in the lower kloof opposite BATS OVERHANG. The kloof is in two sections. In the lower section the climbs are on the true left-hand side and average 35m. In the upper section the climbs are on the true right, with 3 exceptions, and range between 45 and 60m. Descent from the upper section is down the slope opposite the meet point or higher up in the gully above Trident Ridge. Water is always available.

Permits & Access

This kloof is owned by the MCSA and  permits should be obtained – see the main page for details. It was once known as Cavern Kloof. Contact the MCSA for access details. The walk in is fairly level and easy.

Aspect

A small stream usually flows all year, there are many large trees making for a nice shady kloof. Plenty of good climbing all year round.

 PDF Topo Download

Trident Routes

Climbs on the True Left

ELEPHANT MAN     19 (G1) L *** [N]
The climb is located on the lefthand faces opposite the descent gully at the top of the kloof. Start at the base of an open book which leads up to a red overhang. The climb skirts this overhang to the right and then breaks through a second overhang via a bottomless shallow open book.
1.     15 (E2) 11m Climb open book, stepping right at tree at 5m. Belay in corner on broken rock 2m below first overhang.
2.     19 (G1) 20m Climb up diagonally right to below overhangs (3m). Traverse right on good holds onto sloping arete. Swing left on good holds and move up diagonally left to break/open book in second roof. Step up on loose block and wedge trunk into shallow open book. Wedge up open book until a resting point is reached. Climb up break line until angle eases at grade 17(F3).
First Ascent: Dec 1982 S Morkel & T White

GRANDSTAND TRAVERSE     9 (E1) L [N]
The climb starts about 16m upstream from the start of GRANDSTAND at a small gnarled tree 2m downstream from the boulder at the corner of the gully leading out of Trident kloof to the west.
1.     9 (E1) 18m Climb almost vertically for 9m to a large sloping ledge from which the route angles slightly to the right while climbing a further 5m. Scramble up the last 4m to the base of GRANDSTAND PINNACLE.
2.     7 (D) 14m Climb the face just to the left of the pinnacle, surmount overhang 3m up (some moves encroach on PINNACLE CHIMNEY) and continue to top of pinnacle. Alternatively the east face of the pinnacle can be climbed which maintains 9 (E1) standard to the top.
3.     8 (E1) 20m Belay leader from the pinnacle top from where the pitch starts as a horizontal traverse to the left for 6m, at the same level as the belayer, turn the corner above an overhang, angle upwards to the left for 9m to a big chockstone which is the last obstacle before reaching the top, which is only 3m to the left of the top of GRANDSTAND.
First Ascent: Feb 1977 J Langmore & D Scott
GRANDSTAND     7 (D) L * [N]
The climb is on a prominent buttress at the corner formed by the main kloof and the wooded gully opposite TRIDENT RIDGE. Variations to the right and left are possible. Ascend the buttress to a small pinnacle, thence directly to top of krantz.
First Ascent: Unknown
A KWIKKIE     15 (F2) L [N]
On righthand side looking up Trident at the last high yellow buttress at the top of the kloof, opposite the descent gully.
1. 15 (F2) 30m Start 25m downstream from the corner of the buttress, after scrambling up to a wide grass ledge. Tree belay. Climb the bulging wall and traverse diagonally right up to a block which looks as if it is standing on nothing. Climb over it to a large ledge. From the ledge follow a crack which slants right. Continue up a steep wall above and finish left of an overhang.
First Ascent: Jul 1976 J Gregory & C Ward
FLOYD CLIMBS TWO     17 (F3) L *** [N]
The start is located opposite GEORGE descent gully slightly upstream in a woody side gully to the main kloof. The route follows the arete formed by the upper limits of the main kloof and the side gully. Start in a pronounced open book in side gully (near GRANDSTAND).
1.     11 (E3) 15m Ascend open book, climbing diagonally right across righthand page to ledge on arete.
2.     17 (F3) 25m Above the ledge is a vague recess capped by an overhang about 3m to the right of arete. Climb to overhangs breaking out left (crux). Follow arete to top.
First Ascent: Apr 1985 Tim Hoole & Ian Guest
COSMOPOLITAN     6 (D) L [N]
On the left side of the kloof immediately below the entry of the side kloof is a prominent buttress which due to its good rock, easy angle and general rough structure offers opportunity for easy climbs of general 6 (D) standard with the possiblity of many variations and the linking together of different routes.
First Ascent: Mar 1948 H Rowland
BABOONS WALK     6 (D) L [N]
No Description.
First Ascent: Mar 1948 D P Liebenberg
TRIDENT TRAVERSE     7 (D) L [N]
On the left side of the kloof immediately below the entry of the side kloof is a prominent buttress which due to its good rock, easy angle and general rough structure offers opportunity for easy climbs of general 7 (D) standard with the possibility of many variations and the linking toghether of different routes.
First Ascent: Mar 1948 J.P.K.Roux
OBLIVIOUS     13 (F1) L ** [N]
Directly opposite Skeleton Cavern is a steep wall topped by a series of open books leading up diagonally leftwards. Scramble 10m up to the base of the wall. The route starts at the base of the wall approximately 5m to the left of a long prominent overhang which occurs very close to ground level.
1.     13 (F1) 35m Ascend the wall in a shallow recess (strenuous) to a slight overhang. Traverse right to a comfortable ledge with tree (15m). From the ledge ascend diagonally leftwards through a pronounced series of open books to the top where a large tree in the centre of a gully may be used as a belay. The crux is on the wall at the beginning of the pitch.
First Ascent: Oct 1984 Tim Willmot, T O’Connor & P Greenfield
DRIPGRIP     15 (F2) L [N]
Directly opposite Pink Corner is a rather broken buttress. Scramble 12m up to its base. The initial objective is a cave at 5m guarded by a short steep wall providing the crux of the climb.
1.     15 (F2) 5m Ascend the shallow recess which leads directly up the cave, where there is a wild fig tree, and tree belay.
2.     11 (E3) 15m Continue up the crackline behind with a step left at 5m then over blocks to tree belay.
3.     7 (D) 17m Ascend rightwards then up left to avoid a detached flake to the top. Alternatively continue up towards right finishing up a small rib.
Note:
Pitch 1 is often wet, but the following variations are usually dry:
1a.     17 (F3) Start 6m left of the original start and move up to a semi-hand traverse right to gain the ledge.
1b.     15 (F2) Start 5m right of the original start and ascend a steep wall on good holds.
First Ascent: Jan 1968 Merv Prior, A Carmen & A Koster
THE RAIN IN SPAIN     16 (F2) L * [N]
Situated approximately opposite BAYONET (or PINNACLE ROUTE). Scramble up vegetated ledge starting opposite Illegitimate and move along ledge up to left. Route starts up steep wall to right of corner with tree root in it (cairn). A tree with a 30cm diameter trunk grows on this ledge about 2m from start.
1.     16 (F3) 35m Climb steep wall moving right to small cubbyhole (5m). Climb straight up steep rock above to base of short openbook with tree. Climb openbook and arete above to top.
First Ascent: Dec 1986 Stewart Middlemiss & A Margetts
FESTIVITY     15 (F2) L [N]
Directly opposite roots below OGIVE. Climb starts next to large tree with hammerkop’s nest.
1.     11 (E3) 12m Ascend face, bearing slightly left, to large ledge and tree belay.
2.     11 (E3) 22m Climb steep broken face at left of ledge, moving gradually left, to a point at the right of large cave.
3.     15 (F2) 18m Climb easy face for 12m to base of open book. Climb steep open book 6m to top of climb.
First Ascent: Oct 1970 Merv Prior & R Green
NO MORE HEROES     14 (F1) L * [N]
Two low-angle tree-filled gullies enter Trident on the true left at the dogleg between the upper and lower climbing area. (These gullies are extensions of the upper and lower parts of the kloof respectively.) From the streambed walk about 100m up the upper gully to where the true left side reaches its’ highest. The route follows a red dihedral, topping out at a one meter long horizontal rock finger.
Belay on top of a four meter high rock buttress between a tree and the base of the face.
1.     14 (F1) 30m Climb diagonally left over an easy juggy wall to gain the dihedral just above a large creeper. Keeping in the corner as much as possible, climb to the top.
First Ascent: Mar 1987 M Smith & Kevin Smith
TOMMY’S HYMENOTOMY     19 (G1) L [N]
About 100m upstream of LIFEBUOY, on the same side of the kloof, is a gully, after which you come to a small rock buttress. The route takes the face facing the kloof. Half-way up there is a ledge where a small tree is visible. Above the ledge is an open book.
1.     19 (G1) 30m Climb the face starting about 2m left of the arete. Directly up for 4m and then tend diagonally right towards the arete for 3 or 4m and then up left to a large ledge with a tree growing on it. Climb the open book directly above and swing up and left to a resting place. Continue up the steep crack directly above to the top.
First Ascent: May 1985 Charles Edelstein, T Gluck, M Greenslade, Kevin Smith & George Mallory (with varying degrees of success.)
REACH FOR THE STARS     19 (G1) L *** [N]
Walk upstream of LIFEBUOY and as the kloof takes a turn to the left a face can be seen with roots hanging down.
1.     19 (G1) 20m Climb up past the roots to an open book on the left. Move up the open book to a small ledge. Continue up steep face to a good belay ledge.
2.     12 (E3/F1) 15m Above is a recess with a face – climb the recess to the left.
Note:
1. Reach dependant.
First Ascent: 1989 Martin Seegers, Darryl Margetts & Adele Margetts
COME-BACK     16 (F2/F3) L ** [N]
Climb the offwidth above the roots to the right of REACH FOR THE STARS.
1.     16 (F2/F3) 20m Start at the base of the offwidth at the roots. Climb the roots then the offwidth to a good ledge.
2. 14 (F1/F2) 15m Climb the short face to the left of the second pitch of REACH FOR THE STARS.
First Ascent: 1990 Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers, R Brand & A Mercer
AMUSED TO DEATH     13 (F1) L ** [N]
1. 13 (F1) 30m Climb the break 2-3m right of COME-BACK.
First Ascent: 1990 Martin Seegers, Darryl Margetts, A Mercer & R Brand
WICKET GAME     13 (F1) L ** [N]
1. 13 (F1) 30m Climb the break 2m right of AMUSED TO DEATH.
First Ascent: 1990 Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers
SOUL PROVIDER     13 (F1) L ** [N]
1. 13 (F1) 30m Climb the break 2-3m right of WICKET GAME.
First Ascent: 1990 Martin Seegers & Darryl Margetts
FAMOUS LAST WORDS     16 (F2) L *** [N]
Situated about 80m upstream and on the same side as LIFEBUOY, just downstream of the wide gully. The first major feature of this wall downstream of the gully (marked as ‘Steep pink crags roots at base’, on map of lower kloof), is a downstream-facing corner, liberally festooned with roots.
Downstream of this corner is a large tree next to the face; start 10m right of this tree, below a red open-book (8m up), at some tree roots.
1.     16 (F2) 35m Climb easily up stepped ledges towards the open-book. Ascend this for 2m then move out easily rightwards, below its capping roof. Climb the clean, attractive face above via the obvious break, to a ledge adjacent to a tree. Continue directly up a short wall and recess to belay on a large, horizontally-growing fig tree.
Note:
1.     Nice climbing. Good afternoon pitch.
First Ascent: Dec 1991 Russ Dodding, with R Barker, G MacKintosh & R Persson
BELAY PRACTICE     7 (D) L [N]
At lefthand side of the smooth rock wall on which LIFEBUOY, SHADY OVERHANG and BAT’S OVERHANG are situated. The route follows an obvious line immediately to the left of the smooth rock wall.
An easier start is up the deeper recess about 5m left of the smooth face. A more difficult first pitch 13 (F1) is up the shallow recess about 1,5m left of the smooth face. From the belay practice ledge (large block here) continue on up right-angled recess.
First Ascent: Unknown
CONTRIVITIS     18 (G1) L [N]
Start 5m to the left of LIFEBUOY.
1.     18 (G1) 40m Climb the face tending diagonally right to just above the “lifebuoy” hold. Continue up the face to the top, just to the right of the LIFEBUOY DIRECT crack.
First Ascent: Jan 1986 Charles Edelstein & A J Smith
LIFEBUOY     20 (G2) L *** [N,2P]
The route starts 9m to left of SHADY OVERHANG.
1.     20 (G2)15m Ascend 6m to beginning of a shallow recess, where a vertically inserted piton was left. Move up to overhang. Then move left out of recess, up for 2,5m then diagonally right and up for 8m to a small stance. On this portion the grips were rather smooth. A “lifebuoy” grip is encountered however, which enables one to rest for a few seconds.
2.     15 (F2) 8m At stance level traverse right 6m and descend slightly to share a stance with SHADY OVERHANG.
3.     13 (F1) 23m Ascend diagonally left and up to base of recess (dead bush halfway when climb was opened) and exit left at top. (12m 13). From here traverse left and up to base of chimney-like recess up to a good tree belay (11m 11).
First Ascent: Aug 1964 H Graafland & J Anderson
LIFEBUOY DIRECT     20 (G2) L **** [N,2P]
Start as for Lifebuoy, but continue directly up the crack above the “lifebuoy” hold, instead of moving right. Can be done as 1 pitch.
First Ascent: Jan 1986 Charles Edelstein, B O’Meara & A J Smith
SHOOTOUT     22 (G3) L *** [N]
Start between Lifebuoy and Angel, in a left-facing corner.
1.     22 (G3) 15m Climb straight up to the largest flat roof and break through the righthand side of this. Continue up to a ledge on the right.
Easy rock leads to the top.
First Ascent: Circa 1980 A Smith & J Brown
ANGEL     21 (G2) L [N]
The route starts 1m to the left of SHADY OVERHANG.
1.     21 (G1) 12m Climb onto a block and traverse left 1m, from where a wedge can be placed in a crack high up on the left. Climb up to the roof and continue through the roof 1m to the left then up right to gain a stance on top of a block.
2.     15 (F2) 30m Traverse right 2m, here the route crosses LIFEBUOY, and ascend 2m then left 4m. Continue up a recess to the top.
Note:
Opened with aid at 15, A2 (F2,M2)
First Ascent: Jan 1976 E Pickl, E Budding & E Haber
NO ROOM FOR CHALK     23 (H1) L [N]
Start as for Shady Overhang.
1.     23 (H1) 15m Climb straight up to the roof (Shady Overhang trends right). Break through about 2m left of Shady Overhang and follow the thin crack to a ledge.
Easy rock leads to the top.
First Ascent: Jul 1984 A Jardin & Steve Bradshaw
SHADY OVERHANG     20 (G2) L ** [N]
The climb is on the polished face downstream of the practice belay pitch. There are large trees in the kloof in this area, which shade the lower half of the face. The upper branches actually brush the face in places.
1.     20 (G2) 12m Ascend 8m on steep rock to an overhang. Climb the overhang at its least severe point i.e. via a shallow cleft which slopes diagonally up to the right. About 4 pitons (M2) were used in the opening ascent at the overhang. The pitch continues up diagonally right to a prominent ledge with piton belay.
2.     10 (E2) 18m Traverse left to above first pitch and then ascend to stance.
3.     11 (E3) 6m Continue upwards to top.
First Ascent: 1956 J Cottrell & P Harris (FFA 1980 Charles Edelstein)

Alan Grant heading up 'Bats Overhang' (16) Trident Kloof, Magaliesberg. . Photo by: Ian

Alan Grant heading up ‘Bats Overhang’ (16) Trident Kloof, Magaliesberg. . Photo by: Ian

BAT’S OVERHANG     16 (F2) L *** [N]
This climb is situated 20m upstream from Convalescence on the same side of the kloof.
1.     16 (F2) 15m Climb an obvious route on polished-looking rock to point underneath overhang. There is a fixed piton above an obvious block on the left 1,5m below the overhang. Use small upturned nose halfway up to break through overhang, as sling point and key hand hold. After passing crux move, next sling point is large polished block on right. Move up to right of this sling point and traverse left to obvious stance. Use piton belay in vertical crack 1,5m above stance.
2.     11 (E3) 28m Proceed slightly left up obvious route to recess 10m up. First 9m vertical with no sling points. First sling point is root in slight recess. Second sling point 3m higher in crack. Proceed up, bearing left, to large block with layback move to final belay point.
First Ascent: Nov 1956 R Cameron, A McGrindle & E Adcock

BRATS OVERHANG     17 (F3) L [N]
Start just to the right of Bats Overhang.
1.     17 (F3) 40m The route takes the overhanging rock and continues in a direct line to the top of the crag.
First Ascent: Jan 1986 Charles Edelstein, B O’Meara & A J Smith
SKEWER     17 (F3) L [N]
The route follows a line which starts 3m to the right of the start of Bat’s Overhang and goes straight up and through V-shaped open book at the top of the crag. This open book is to the right of the final Convalescence slab.
1.     17 (F3) 35m Climb up broken rock to below first overhang. Use handjam to move through overhang to below second overhang. Swing left on good handhold and reach 1,5m to another good hold. Climb 2m and then move right into mantleshelf. Climb up easier rock to base of V-shaped open book to the right of the final slab of Convalescence. Climb up open book.
First Ascent: Unknown. (Write-up submitted by T White and S Morkel)
CONVALESCENCE     13 (F1) L *** [N.1P]
The climb is situated on the first sizeable face on the righthand side of the kloof, ascending. The face is topped by a prominent overhang.
1.     11 (E2) 18m Commence from the path which runs along the base of the face at this point. Ascend to within 3m of the prominent overhang where a piton belay can be made.
2.     7 (D) 18m Traverse left, gaining height at the same time, to a small ledge of white rock 6m up. (Fixed piton.)
3.     13 (F1) 12m Ascend the steep red face above the stance on small but sharp grips, and finish up a crack 3m to the left of the start of the pitch.
Variation: A slight recess midway between the normal start and Bat’s Overhang takes one from the ground to a point about three-quarters way along the traverse pitch.
Note:
A large party is inadvisable as the stances are small.
First Ascent: Sep 1951 R Davies & I Keith
LUMBERJACK     8 (E1) L * [N]
Crack/chimney with large wedged block 12m downstream from Convalescence. The climb finishes through the first obvious break in the overhangs to the right of Convalescence.
1.     7 (D) 18m Follow crack to block (one can pass between block and face). Gain top of block via its righthand face. Continue up nose, starting a few metres to right of stance on large ledge.
2.     8 (E1) 15m Up and a shade left on face above, passing left of small overhang. This gives access to small recess which leads up into open book formed by the face and the right side of the above mentioned break in the overhang.
Variation:
2a.     7 (D) 15m It is possible , by ascending small white recess on right side of face, to pass to the right of the main overhangs.
First Ascent: Feb 1959 R Kinsley, J Holland & P Bloomfield

 Climbs on the True Right

DOUBLE VISION     18 (G1) R *** [N]
Ascends the obvious couloir capped by a large overhang, on the lefthand side of the kloof, directly opposite the First Aid dump.
1.     18 (G1) 38m Climb righthand side of couloir on good but extremely polished holds. Move into the back of the couloir and ascend to below the overhang immediately right of slab. Move up and left across slab to gain easier ground. Finish up easier rock above.
First Ascent: Feb 1984 A M Maddison & R Brand

BEFORE HEAD – FIST     19 (G1) R [N,1P]
The climb starts about 3m downstream from BEFORE BREAKFAST following a crack just right of the roots.
1.     19 (G1) 17m Climb the crack to a platform on the left. Step right and up onto bulge gaining a handrail on the headwall (piton). Rail right awkwardly and then up to stance.
Note:
1.     The piton was found in place.
First Ascent: May 1985 Ian Guest & Tim Hoole
BEFORE BREAKFAST     20 (G2) R [N]
This is a steep short crack about 50m upstream of LIFEBUOY but on the opposite side of the kloof. It is about 20m upstream from DOUBLE VISION and just before a very large tree.
1.     20 (G2) 15m Climb the crack in the red rock breaking out right at the top to a tree belay. Scramble off on right.
First Ascent: Jul 1983 George Mallory & Charles Edelstein
SLIPPERY SNATCH     17 (F3) R ** [N]
The route is about 80m upstream of DOUBLE VISION. A steep (slightly overhanging) face is partially obscured by a large and prominent stamvrug (forked near the base), which also marks the start of the climb.
1.     17 (F3) 20m Climb the well defined recess behind the tree, following its natural curve. Break through the recess in the overhang to belay at a stamvrug bush.
First Ascent: Oct 1984 T O’Connor, Tim Willmot & P Greenfield
SAND FROGS CONVENTION     13 (F1) R * [N]
About 5m downstream of UNDER PRESSURE is a left slanting rock. The route takes this crack – cairn. The protection for this route is reasonable.
1.     13 (F1) 26m Climb up to the clearly defined left slanting crack. Move up the face to the left of the crack, at times awkwardly, until able to clear on the left. Climb up the broken rock to reach a comfortable belay stance above.
First Ascent: Oct 1995 Ulrike Kiefer & Tim Willmot
UNDER PRESSURE     17 (F3) R *** [N]
Approximately 40m upstream of DOUBLE VISION is a low (more or less two body lengths) buttress sticking out into the kloof. The route takes the broken looking faint open book just downstream of this buttress. The route makes for the white alcove (capped by a roof) high up and breaks right to clear. The protection for this route is excellent.
1.     17 (F3) 32m Start up the faint open book (cairn). After a few metres move slightly left and pull up by means of a long reach. Climb up to the white alcove beneath the roof (by moving slightly right). Step down to the right and gain the upstream open book awkwardly. Pull up to easier ground and climb the crack (clearing the ledge on the left) and steep wall above to clear the small roof. Take a stance on the top of the prominent gendarme.
First Ascent: Oct 1995 Ulrike Kiefer & Tim Willmot
LEFT BEETLE BONNET     13 (F1) R ** [N]
The route takes the left crack line of the Y-shaped Volkswagen Beetle Bonnet feature mentioned in RIGHT BEETLE BONNET. Start at the same point as this route – cairn. The protection for this route is good.
1.     13 (F1) 25m Move up to the base of the left leaning crack. Climb up to the large left leaning detached block. Climb up behind this to reach the left leaning open book above. Move up to exit left. Climb up to the comfortable belay stance on top.
First Ascent: Mar 1996 Ulrike Kiefer, R Persson & Tim Willmot
RIGHT BEETLE BONNET     13 (F1) R [N]
Just upstream of the low buttress sticking out into the kloof (see UNDER PRESSURE) is a Volkswagen Beetle Bonnet shaped feature. The route takes the right hand crack line of the Y – cairn. The protection for this route is reasonable.
1.     13 (F1) 25m Move up to the base of the crack. Climb this, fighting through the tree close to the start of the crack. Climb up steepening rock to exit right. Fight through some hanging creeper and then take a line straight up to a comfortable stance on top.
First Ascent: Mar 1996 TP Willmot, U Kiefer and R Persson
BRIDGE OVER TROUBLED WATERS     17 (F3) R *** [N]
Approximately 5m upstream of the BEETLE BONNET duet is a grotty looking broken groove. The route follows this until it becomes very steep, traverses right and then moves up a small broken corner to reach the top – cairn. The protection for this route is adequate.
1.     17 (F3) 30m Climb the groove to reach a small ledge above which the groove becomes very steep. Move up for about 2m and then traverse delicately right (crux) across the steep wall to reach the small broken open book. Climb this and tend diagonally leftwards to reach the comfortable belay stance on top.
First Ascent: Mar 1996 R Persson, Ulrike Kiefer & Tim Willmot
DANCING ON THE CEILING     16 (F2/F3) R *** [N]
The route takes the clean crisp deep open book capped by a roof approximately 3m up. The line is the first salient feature when moving upstream from the route BRIDGE OVER TROUBLED WATERS (approx. 20m). At the right extremity is a left leaning, tree root choked slab which moves up leftwards to meet the line, next to the roof (cairn).
1.     16 (F2/F3) 28m Move up the open book to just under the roof. Move rightwards, doing a foot swap in mid stride and lay back up to reach the base of the clean open book above. Climb the open book dodging to the right at the top to clear a clot of vegetation. Ascend an arbitrary line to the top. Take a comfortable stance.
Notes:
1.     Protection is good at the crux.
2.     A worthwhile, technically pleasing, mid range route.
First Ascent: Dec 1997 Tim Willmot & Greg Devine
THANKS FOR THE MAMMARIES     10 (E2/E3) R ** [N]
About halfway between DANCING ON THE CEILING and LIBRARY FREAK is a pronounced roof and curving crack above a smooth slab. The route takes a line up the centre of the clean buttress just downstream of this roof/slab combination ( cairn ).
1.     10 (E2/E3) 30m. Take an arb line up to the top. Probably the most interesting part is pulling through on huge jugs to exit before taking a stance.
Note:
1.     Despite the easy grade a worthwhile pleasant clean climb for a beginner.
2.     Descend as for MIDNIGHT SPRAWL.
First Ascent: Feb 2002 Tim Willmot, Bob Buckley and Kaffie Van Graan
LIBRARY FREAK     14 (F1/F2) R *** [N]
The route takes the bottomless laid back open book(s) immediately downstream of the MIDNIGHT SPRAWL buttress – cairn.
1.     14 (F1/F2) 40m Climb up the base of the first open book (approximately 4m up). Gain this with some trepidation (crux). Climb up the laid back open book above to reach the bulge at the top. Move through the bulge on left to gain the second open book above. Climb this. Careful of the loose block above the tree. Move left and climb the clean crisp rock above until forced to exit left. Climb up to the comfortable stance on top via the short wall. Careful of another possibly loose block on top of the wall.
Notes:
1.     Protection is adequate throughout.
2.     Easier than it looks. If you look for them all of the holds are there.
3.     Superlative clean climbing.
4.     Descend as for MIDNIGHT SPRAWL.
First Ascent: Jan 1998 Greg Devine, Tim Willmot, Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts
MIDNIGHT STAGGER     8 (E1) R ** [N]
Takes the crack up the centre of the MIDNIGHT SPRAWL slab – cairn.
1.     8 (E1) 40m Climb the centre of the slab using the crack for protection. Climb straight up to take a comfortable stance on top.
Notes:
1.     Protection is adequate.
2.     A good route for its grade.
3.     Descend as for MIDNIGHT SPRAWL
First Ascent: Jan 1998 Darryl Margetts, Tim Willmot, Greg Devine & Ken Thrash
MIDNIGHT SPRAWL     8 (E1) R ** [N]
On reaching the bottom of the scramble gully downstream of the MIDNIGHT CRAWL buttress, one finds a slab reminiscent of that climb on the downstream side of the gully. The route ascends the crack on the right boundary of the slab – cairn.
1.     8 (E1) 40m Climb the slab using the crack on the right for protection. Exit at the top of the slab and move slightly right up the groove to take a comfortable stance next to the tree at the top.
Notes:
1.     Protection is adequate.
2.     A good route for its grade.
3.     Descend by moving slightly upstream and scrambling down the gully by zigging upstream and zagging downstream. At the downstream extremity of each zig-zag downclimb the groove until the scree slope is reached.
First Ascent: Jan 1998 TP Willmot, D Margetts, K Thrash, G Devine
JUMPING CRACK FLASH     8 (E1) R * [N]
The route takes the vertical crack up the downstream retaining wall of the descent gully downstream of the MIDNIGHT SPRAWL buttress. Start just up from the start of the descent gully at the start of the crack – cairn.
1.     8 (E1) 35m Climb the crack breaking through the roof above and take a stance on the comfortable ledge on top. Be careful on pulling the jug at the outer extremity of the roof as its integrity may be suspect.
Notes:
1.     Protection is excellent & the route is easier than it looks.
2.     Descend as for MIDNIGHT SPRAWL.
First Ascent: Jan 1998 Darryl Margetts, Tim Willmot, Ken Thrash, Greg Devine
ME TOO     14 (F1/F2) R ** [N]
The route climbs the pronounced chimney some 5m downstream of LOW EARTH ORBIT.
Start from the same long sloping ledge marking the start of LOW EARTH ORBIT.
1.     14 (F1/F2) 25m Climb the chimney, delicately at first, to reach the tree above. Regain the chimney, with difficulty, and continue to reach the comfortable belay stance on top.
Notes:
1.     Protection is adequate though hard to find.
2.     When the tree disappears one suspects that the grade is going to jump a tad.
3.     Descend as for MIDNIGHT SPRAWL.
First Ascent: May 1998 EA Lombard & Tim Wilmot
LOW EARTH ORBIT     16 (F2/F3) R **** [N]
The route climbs the left hand side of the Gendarme, the right hand side of which is climbed by POCKET ROCKET. Approach the start via the long sloping ledge that starts just upstream of the bottom of the scramble gully just downstream of the MIDNIGHT CRAWL buttress. Start at the upstream extremity of the sloping ledge below the crack system about level with the erectile projectile of the route POCKET ROCKET.
1.     16 (F1/F2) 25m Climb the steep crack making for the short curved crack high up out on the arete. Ascend this and then climb up the blocky arete to reach the comfortable belay stance on top.
Notes:
1.     Protection is excellent.
2.     A superb route providing clean, exposed climbing.
3.     The holds slope in such a way that it feels as if the route is trying to spit you out.
4.     Descend as for MIDNIGHT SPRAWL.
First Ascent: Jan 1998 Ken Thrash, Darryl Margetts, Greg Devine & Tim Willmot
POCKET ROCKET     15 (F2) R *** [N]
On scrambling down the gully just downstream of the MIDNIGHT CRAWL buttress one comes across a groove system at the downstream extremity of the buttress. A salient feature of the route is a small rock pinnacle just underneath a horizontal dinner plate protrusion.
The route starts on top of a large block just up from the start of the crack-cairn on the top of the block.
1.     15 (F2) 30m Climb the crack just below the erectile projectile. Move cautiously up, pass the little pinnacle, and climb the faint open book above to reach the top of the gendarme. Move across the little gully and climb the rough wall behind to reach the comfortable belay stance on the top.
Notes:
1.     Protection is excellent.
2.     The holds slope in such a way that it feels as if the route is trying to spit you out.
3. An excellent route on rock which is not as easy as it first appears.
First Ascent: Dec 1997 Greg Devine & Tim Wilmot
BERG ADDER     17 (F3) R ** [N]
On the lefthand side of the kloof approximately 200m upstream from DOUBLE VISION is an obvious short buttress/ pinnacle. The climb takes the obvious line through the large flakes above. Cairn.
1.     17 (F3) 30m Ascend gully on upstream side of pinnacle to gain the start of the flake. Ascend flake to top.
First Ascent: Feb 1984 A M Maddison & R Brand
BITE     15 (F2) R * [N]
This route ascends the obvious overhang a few metres to the right of BERG ADDER, immediately before GRASS.
1.     15 (F2) 30m Ascend open book to gain the base of the overhang. Traverse out right to gain a small ledge. Finish as for GRASS.
First Ascent: Feb 1984 A M Maddison & R Brand
GRASS     13 (F1) R [N]
A few metres upstream from BITE is an obvious steep slab bordered on the righthand side by a steep wall.
1.     13 (F1) 30m Ascend the slab, easily on the lefthand side or with more difficulty on the right, to gain a small ledge below an undercut shallow open book. Climb open book to top.
First Ascent: Feb 1984 A M Maddison & R Brand
BAVIAANS PAD     8 (E1) R [N]
The climb starts in well defined small corner about 20m below SOLO and either a 7 (D) or 8 (E) start may be made.
1.     9 (E1) 17m Climb a shallow recess with a narrow opening at the top. 7m of 8 (E1) onto a square ledge. Or alternatively, climb easy rock about 5m to the left of this, moving up and to the right to reach the same square ledge 7 (D). Climb straight up following the crack for 10m to tree stance.
2.     7 (D) 11m Move to the right onto big block of rock and around the corner 3m and climb in recess to reach sloping grassy ledge 3m. Walk 5m to big tree for belay.
Variation :
2.     10 (E2) 10m Climb the steep crack directly above the tree on good grips. Continue straight up to the large ledge.
3.     8 (E1) 17m Climb the main face behind big tree (at this point climb crosses Solo). Belay at ledge with tree growing out horizontally. 8 (E1) for first 5m and 7 (D) for next 12m.
4.     7 (D) 12m Climb up and to the right to final V-shaped recess at top.
First Ascent: Sep 1964 R Charlton & M Urban (Variation for pitch 2 : M Arsenjevic & D Peters)
TECHNIQUE     13 (F1) R [N]
The climb starts on the righthand (i.e. upstream) side of the dark face just downstream of the polished slabs ascended by SOLO and RELAPSE. The start is 5m to the left of an overhang 6m up the dark face and 8m downstream of the polished slab.
1.     13 (F1) 25m Climb the face using a vague recess until it peters out on narrow ledge going up to the right. Gain ledge, move left and continue directly up to the large ledge.
There are two large trees at the back of the ledge from where the shattered chimney/corner used by SOLO begins.
2.     11 (E3) 30m Start 5m to the left of the chimney/recess used by Solo at a short crack. Climb up trending slightly right for 5m on steep rock with good grips. Move left and then up to gain a short corner and continue directly up to the top.
First Ascent: Sep 1983 D Peters & M Arsenjevic
IT     17 (F3) R * [N,R]
To the left of the polished slab of the first pitch of MIDNIGHT CRAWL one finds RELAPSE. The route commences about 3m to the left of RELAPSE on the corner of the block proceeding up a shallow undercut recess.
1.     17 (F3) 12m From where the earth bank falls away to the left around the corner, traverse left to under the base of the recess. Using a small foothold stand up and pull into recess taking care not to dislodge a very loose block on the left page. A piton affords some protection from this point. Proceed easily up recess to large ledge.
From here various easy routes lead to the top.
Note:
There is no protection for the cruxes.
First Ascent: Mar 1985 Ian Guest & Tim Hoole
SOLO     7 (D) R [N]
The climb starts in the middle of a small face set at right-angles to the main kloof, immediately after the first narrow part of the kloof, after the junction with the side kloof on the true left side.
1.     7 (D) 16m Climb a crack about 0,5m wide, in which is a large root. The first 6m is 7 (D), after which the crack eases off and the next 10m is 5/6 (C) which leads onto a sloping grassy ledge with a big tree.
2.     7 (D) 17m Continue the same line, behind the tree and into the recess; at the second tree, more pleasant moves are made by climbing the face on the left of the recess, although the recess may also be climbed. 17m of 7 (D) easy rock and scrambling to top.
First Ascent: R Forsyth
RELAPSE     9 (E1) R ** [N]
Start as for Solo in a crack to the left of an upstream facing slab.
1.     9 (E1) 15m Climb up and left over dark coloured bulging rock, then up to tree.
2.     9 (E1) 20m Move right into corner then do a “stepover” onto the front of the prominent arete.
3.     9 (E1) 20m Climb steep face moving left past tree to top, or go directly up corner 10 (E2).
Note:
The climb has been wrongly described in the previous route books as a one pitch 7 (D) route. It is in fact a recommended clean 9 (E) route on good rock.
First Ascent: Unknown
TANJA’S LEAD     14 (F1/F2) R *** [N]
This climb starts left of MIDNIGHT CRAWL.
1.     14 (F1/F2) 20m Climb the short face, pull through an overhang and continue up to a good ledge.
2.     13 (F1) 20m Climb the break above to the top of the crag.
First Ascent: 1989 T Truter, Martin Seegers & Darryl Margetts
MIDNIGHT CRAWL     15 (F2) R *** [N]
Start in large cave bounded on the left by a smooth red face and on the right by an overhanging wall. There are some blocks trapped in the “roof”. Ascend the upstream facing lefthand retaining wall of the cave.
1.     15 (F2) 15m Climb the slab, initially up a faint crack in its middle and finally in the corner on the right, the crux being the rounding of the final overhang to gain a belay ledge.
2.     11 (E2) 15m After a delicate step over to the right, traverse 3m to the right to a big ledge. Scramble 12m up easy rock to tree belay.
3.     15 (F2) 28m Climb up in corner until forced out right by overhang. Diagonally right to a block jutting out from face 40cm, where a piton safeguards the move onto the ledge (the last 5m to the block are strenuous). Easier climbing on face to top.
Variations:
3a.     11 (E3) 28m Step down and traverse right for 8m into corner, from where it is possible to climb up to the block mentioned above from the right (easier) and to top.
3b.     16 (F3) 28m Continue up crack through overhang to top.
First Ascent: May 1963 R J Stallebrass, A D van Doornum & D Lubbe

Hector Pringle on The Empire Strikes Back (23) Trident Kloof in Magaliesberg. Photo by: Alasdair Walton

Hector Pringle on The Empire Strikes Back (23) Trident Kloof in Magaliesberg. Photo by: Alasdair Walton

THE EMPIRE STRIKES BACK     23 (H1) R [N]
To the right of MIDNIGHT CRAWL there is a cave at ground level, and right of this an obvious overhanging crack line.
1.     23 (H1) Start up the hanging tree roots for 6m to join the crack. Follow this through a roof. It is possible to step left above the roof onto a block (which forms the roof of the cave). Continue up the very overhanging crack to the ledge.
First Ascent: Jul 1984 A Jardin & Steve Bradshaw

LIFE IN THE EASY LANE     13 (F1) R ** [N]
Using the first 6 (D) pitch of ONDERSTEBO, gain the large tree. Step right onto blocks.
1.     13 (F1) 20m or 17 (F3) Climb a V-shaped recess capped by a roof until under the roof (4m). Break out right 13 (F1) or break straight through 17 (F3). Continue up a clean recess/ crack slightly to the left to the top.
First Ascent: Apr 1985 Ian Guest, Tim Hoole & L Middleburg
ONDERSTEBO     13 (F1) R ** [N]
The climb starts immediately below a small cave at a point where many prominent thick roots descend over the rock face from a tree growing out of the rocks.
1.     7 (D) 22m Vertically up an obvious easy rock face to a large tree.
2.     11 (E3) 9m Up from the tree for about 3m and then diagonally right to a ledge. Scramble 12m to right into a corner (tree belay).
3.     13 (F1) 10m Straight up the corner in the rock wall to a small overhang. Move right (strenuous Onderstebo move). Continue to climb the recess to top.
First Ascent: Dec 1948 T Louw, W Politzer & P Ronald
VERTEBRAE     15 (F2) R * [N]
Start on the lefthand side of a recess 3m right of Onderstebo.
1.     15 (F2) 25m Climb a groove on the lefthand side of the recess until it is possible to move right under the overhang and across a short wall. Follow the groove above to a stance and tree belay.
2.     13 (F1) 28m Move diagonally right over easy rock to the foot of a steep red wall. Ascend a corner on the left until it is possible to step onto the wall. Either climb straight up the centre of the wall or move across to a rib on the righthand side and climb that.
First Ascent: 1968 Merv Prior & party
TRIVIA     19 (G1) R * [N]
Start about halfway between ONDERSTEBO and RETRIBUTION, just left of the roots coming down from the face and below a shallow cave 4m up.
1.     17 (F3) 25m Scramble up to the foot of a short, steep face, just right of the cave and just left of the roots. Delicate climbing diagonally up left leads to an easier angled ramp above the cave which is followed to a stance on a ledge.
2.     19 (G1) 15m Climb straight up for 4m and then move diagonally up right to the base of a shallow open book. Climb this to a small overhang and then step very delicately right onto a ledge and stance in the recess, about 3m below a large overhang.
3.     17 (F3) 25m Climb up to the overhang and then make an awkward, strenuous move out left onto a small sloping ledge. Continue diagonally left to the base of a shallow recess above the overhang which is climbed to the top.
First Ascent: Mar 1975 Art McGarr, L P Fatti & A Dick
AFTER LUNCH     19 (G1) R * [N]
Start about halfway between ONDERSTEBO and RETRIBUTION, just left of the roots coming down from the face and below a shallow cave 4m up.
1.     17 (F3) 25m Scramble up to the foot of a short, steep face, just right of the cave and just left of the roots. Delicate climbing diagonally up left leads to an easier angled ramp above the cave which is followed to a stance on a ledge.
2.     15 (F2) 30m Above the first stance there are two breaks leading to the face between TRIVIA and ONDERSTEBO. Take the left break leading onto the face. Climb up the middle of the face to the top.
First Ascent: Jul 1983 George Mallory & Charles Edelstein
HANGOVER     16 (F2) R * [N]
Start 2m downstream from the small tree at the start of RETRIBUTION.
1.     13 (F1) 15m Climb a few metres of the start of RETRIBUTION. Move awkwardly left into the corner, then continue up until level with the large ledge on the right. Traverse onto the ledge. (Same ledge as found at top of first pitch of RETRIBUTION.)
2.     16 (F2) 18m From the left side of the ledge, climb diagonally up left to the overhangs 8m away, via a delicate step up at 4m. Traverse boldly left on good grips for 5m before moving up. Ascend 6m to a large ledge on the right.
3.     10 (E2) 34m Climb the face above trending leftwards to the recess which is followed to the top.
First Ascent: Nov 1974 Art McGarr, Paul Fatti & D Peters
RETRIBUTION     15 (F2) R ** [N]
The climb starts about 20m upstream from ONDERSTEBO, 2m left of a slender tree.
1.     11 (E3) 12m Ascend a crack to a wide ledge screened by trees.
2.     15 (F2) 12m Up approximately the centre of the grey slab above ledge. At about halfway up a short traverse of about two steps to the right thence straight up to a wide platform.
3.     11 (E3) 12m Starting at the extreme righthand side of the platform climb up in corner of red rock to a point immediately underneath the very large overhang. Traverse right about 6m to a stance adjacent to a slit through which daylight is seen. A chockstone in this slit can be used as a belay.
4.     14 (F2) 20m Traverse right round the nose and up to other side of slit where chockstone can again be used as belay. (11 (E3) if old peg used.) Then straight up to summit.
First Ascent: Mar 1950 S Penny, T Louw & R Kinsley
RETRIBUTION DIRECT     17 (F3) R ** [N]
Start 1m right of the tree at the base of easy D crack (formerly known as SOLO).
1.     17 (F3) 25m Climb up into a small recess with a little overhang. Move left and up a crack to a tree. Continue above the tree to a short wall, move slightly right and up to a ledge. Move diagonally left onto a steep wall on good holds (small blocks which appear to be loose are in fact sound). Continue up to an undercut block. Traverse slightly left to a good ledge. Move up and over right to a large ledge with tree. Continue above the tree laying away on a slanting crack to the top of pitch 3 above using the same belay stance (chockstone in a slit).
2.     15 (F2) 20m Continue on pitch 4 above traversing right round the nose (without using the old peg) and up the other side of the slit to the top.
NOTE:
In the previously published Route Book, the climb SOLO was incorrectly shown next to RETRIBUTION DIRECT. This is in fact a 7 (D) grade crack giving access to the large rock ledge which a number of other climbs pass over. There is no easy continuation to this 7 (D) crack.
First Ascent: Jul 1976 J Gregory & C Ward
BONSAI     17 (F3) R * [N]
Start 5m left of cave with hanging roots upstream from the start of RETRIBUTION.
1.     14 (F1) 15m Climb a narrow crack.
2.     13 (F1) 20m Climb narrow slanting crack from a ledge about 4m right from top of first pitch. From top of crack bear right up face. Exit from the top of the crack with blocks on other side to a large ledge.
3.     17 (F3) 40m Climb the crack with a tree and roots in it on the corner of a buttress. Step right, around onto the face, climb up to overhangs, traverse right (small tree) and hand-traverse on a good ledge to a small platform (strenuous). From there climb to top.
First Ascent: Aug 1975 J Linke, H Vogl & C Ward
OGIVE     17 (F3) R * [N]
Immediately downstream of an easy D crack formerly incorrectly known as SOLO is a root covered cave. Start 4-5m upstream of cave.
1.     11 (E3) 16m Ascend the wall to a ledge and nut belay (or tree belay on right).
2.     13 (F1) 12m Continue directly up the wall above the first pitch to a small overhang. Either move left under it or move left above it to gain a large ledge and block belay.
3.     17 (F3) 18m Ascend the chimney or rib on its left which leads to the lefthand side of the “ogive” (arched overhang). Traverse right under the overhang, step down and make an awkward move right to gain the front face of a detached pillar. Move up right to a chockstone belay in the chimney.
4.     7 (D) 12m Continue up the chimney to the top.
Note:
The top pitch runs very close to RETRIBUTION, keeping parallel with it and joins the same crack system to the top.
A direct finish at 19 (G1) has been added by T White & S Morkel.
First Ascent: Merv Prior and party
EMMAS DILEMMA     15 (F2) R ** [N]
Starts 7m right of a corner crack which provides an easy ascent to the righthand end of RETRIBUTION LEDGE.
1.     15 (F2) 25m Start on a grey wall. Move up and left for 3m on an ascending traverse to a ledge. Move slightly right. Follow an obvious shallow depression up to a large ledge.
2.     13 (F1) 25m Climb the yellow wall with a bulge in the middle behind the stance. Keep right of an obvious easy crack to the left which joins Retribution top pitch. Climb the left side of the bulge following a definite crack. Finish up easy rock.
First Ascent: Jul 1976 C Ward & J Gregory
DOUBLE BASE     13 (F1) R ** [N]
The start is 5m downstream from the start of ILLEGITIMATE and is marked by a prominent pinnacle, whose top is a little lower than the top of the face. The first pitch takes the recess.
1.     11 (E3) 25m Climb the shallow recess and then diagonally leftwards across the grey slab to the tree.
2.     13 (F1) 34m Climb up the grey slab to just right of the white bulge at the foot of the steepest part of the red face. Ascend the face on good grips to a little ledge level with the pinnacle on the right. Climb diagonally left up to the top of the face.
First Ascent: Feb 1969 E J Ellis & D Peters
ILLEGITIMATE     18 (F3) R *** [N]
Downstream from PINK CORNER, on the same side of the kloof there is a small pinnacle, the top of which is lower than the top of the kloof wall. On the left of the pinnacle is a crack which runs the whole way up the krantz, ending in a spectacular open book.
1.     16 (F3) 18m Ascend short wall to the left of the crack climbing right in a series of short steps to foot of crack. Ascend the off-width crack to the first reasonable ledge where there is a tree belay. (The face to the left is easier.)
2.     10 (E2) 12m Continue up the crack to just below the open book. There is a good chockstone.
3.     18 (F3) 15m Ascend the open book. There is a chockstone (running belay) half way up.
First Ascent: Mar 1951 D Bell & Merv Prior
BAYONET     15,A1 (F2,M1) R * [N,2P]
The route takes the arete on the prominent pinnacle to the right of Illegitimate. The start is directly below the arete and just to the left of a set of overhangs at ground level.
1.     11 (E3) 34m Climb straight up the grey face to the arete of the pinnacle. Use layback flake on the arete to gain the overhangs. Move onto the righthand face to avoid these and once above them swing back onto the arete. Continue up the arete for 5m to a ledge.
2.     15,A1/F19 (F2,M1) 20m Continue to the top of the pinnacle 10(E2). Step onto and ascend the smooth face above using a peg for aid to gain a ledge. Move left off the ledge and continue to the top.
Note:
2 pegs on the route suggest that part of and perhaps the whole route has been climbed previously.
First Ascent: Jul 1974 Paul Fatti, D Peters & Art McGarr
PINNACLE ROUTE     11 (E3) R ** [N]
Start just downstream of Pink Corner at easy grey slab with corner on right. Scramble up slab 5 (C) to ledge and continue leftwards past trees to base of pinnacle (upstream side).
1.     10 (E2) 25m Ascend corner between pinnacle and main cliff (9 E1) and walk through behind pinnacle to far side (possible stance behind pinnacle). Step down slightly on downstream side of pinnacle and then traverse (crux) to tree (slight ascent) and on to large ledge (slight descent) and good stance.
2.     11 (E3) 30m Climb easily up leftwards to top of large block (15m). Step off block to left and ascend steeply to top.
Variations possible on front of pinnacle 10 (E2), and to the left of the block on pitch 2, 5 (D) or right 13 (F1)
First Ascent: T Bright & T Louw
FOREIGNER     19 (G1) R [N]
The route starts between Pinnacle Route and Pink Corner and goes up the righthand side of the prominent red wall between the two routes.
1.     5 (C) 12m Scramble up the obvious recess to a broad ledge below the red wall.
2.     19 (G1) 18m Climb the vague break directly above the recess of the first pitch, bearing left just above a bolt (found in place by the opening party). Belay on a small stance on the right, close to the belay on Pink Corner.
3.     19 (G1) 24m From the top of the last pitch, climb up for about 1,5m before moving right, then up a further 1,5m until it is possible to move left into a corner. Climb the corner to the top.
Note:     No pegs are necessary on this route.
First Ascent: Apr 1979 E February & A Lambert
RUSSIAN ROULETTE     17,A2 (F3,M2) R [N]
Scramble up to a recessed crack in a steep face midway between Pinnacle Route and Pink Corner.
1.     17,A2 (F3,M2) 15m Climb the steep recess 4m to a peg. Aid up (5 points) moving left at the top. Pull up and climb into a niche. A more comfortable stance can be made 3m to the right.
2.     15 (F2) 10m Traverse to the right, crossing the Pink Corner route, until beneath a tree. Climb up to the tree. Stance common with Pink Corner.
3.     9 (E2) 30m Traverse right 2m, then straight up just to the left of a ridge. Continue to the top.
First Ascent: Jan 1976 E Pickl, E Budding & E Haber
PINK CORNER     15 (F2) R **** [N]
This climb is on the buttress about 15m downstream from Skeleton, starting to the right of a very large block at the foot of the face.
1.     15 (F2) 8m Ascend a steepish face, with sloping grips, to a platform with a small tree. This pitch can be obviated by scrambling up easy rock around to the right.
2.     15 (F2) 22m Ascend loose-looking but easy rock for 5m (fixed piton), traverse left under a small overhang and then ascend 5m to a larger overhang (eye running belay point). From here traverse left and ascend easier rock for 12m to a small stance (fixed piton).
3.     11 (E3) 12m Ascend then traverse right and ascend to a cubby hole in which there is a stamvrug tree.
4.     10 (E2) 22m Ascend the face to the left of the recess above the cubby hole. About 12m up, the climb proper ends at a wide terrace, but one can continue up the face for another 9m on steep rock.
Variations:
A.     13 (F1) At the level of the terrace on pitch 4, traverse left under some creepers and ascend the face about 9m downstream of pitch 4.
B.     17 (F3) From top of pitch 2 ascend straight up i.e. avoiding the traverse right to the stamvrug tree. One can then end up on the normal pitch 4 or continue up and out left with variation (a).
First Ascent: Sep 1949 R Davies, F Villa, E Chadwick & H Lude
TOMB WALL     18 (F3) R *** [N]
The climb ascends the steep red wall immediately left of Skeleton and follows the arete to the top. Ascend the slab to the left of Skeleton Cave and chockstone belay, below the corner.
1.     18 (F3) 18m A meter-and-a-half left of the corner taken by Skeleton is a shallow groove running up the red wall. Ascend this (18 F3) for 6m, then follow good incut holds up leftwards to the arete. Continue up the arete to a ledge and peg belay.
2.     13 (F1) 12m Continue up the arete to the top.
First Ascent: Nov 1968 A D Barley, R P Barley, K Fletcher & A Carmen
SKELETON     15 (F2) R ** [N]
The route starts immediately to the left of a cavern situated above a prominent scree slope.
1.     15 (F2) 18m The first pitch starts on a ledge on top of sloping rock. Above this stance the rock wall forms an obtuse vertical angle. The first pitch goes up the easier inclined face to the right of the angle to a small platform.
2.     13 (F1) 22m Up the angle for about 2,5m then a traverse of about 4m left, thence diagonally up towards the right to a shallow recess which starts at an overhang. There is a small tree in this recess. Pass the tree and continue up the recess to the summit.
Note:
There is some loose rock on the second pitch, which can, however, be avoided with care.
First Ascent: Apr 1948 T Louw, L Lincoln & H Howard
EVE’S PLEASURE     10 (E2) R * [N]
Start 20m upstream from Skeleton Cave and scramble up 10m to large cave. Walk left and upwards to tree belay.
1.     10 (E2) 40m From tree traverse left (very exposed) to overlook Skeleton cave, then ascend steeply, exiting to the right just past a tree. Continue easily to the top.
First Ascent: Nov 1949 R Charlton, E Bannerman, T Martins, M Lude & J Bett
BLIKSEM     13 (F1) R [N]
Begin just right of the cave above the scree slope.
1.     7 (D) 9m Climb as for Eve’s Pleasure, then traverse out to the right and up until past the tree in the open book on the left.
2.     13 (F1) 5m Straight up in the open book. (Variation: Traverse out right at the first opportunity.)
3.     13 (F1) 22m Climb over the crack on an overhanging slab and traverse right and then up to a fixed piton, then left and up to a block from where the overhang can be overcome. Again right and up until past the last overhang. Scramble 3m to belay.
First Ascent: Jan 1966 H M Verloren van Themaat & J du Plessis
COWBOY     15,A1 (F2,M1) R [N,2P]
This route is a variation on BLIKSEM with aid on the third pitch. Pitch 1 & 2 remain the same as BLIKSEM. Also starts just right of the cave above the scree slope.
1.     7 (D) 9m Climb as for Eve’s Pleasure, then traverse out to the right and up until past the tree in the open book on the left.
2.     13 (F1) 5m Straight up in the open book. (Variation: Traverse out right at the first opportunity.)
3.     15,A1 (15,M1) 20m A bold lassoo on the third pitch avoids the use of excessive aid. From the top of the second pitch, step across the open groove and gain a steep recess by an awkward move. (Peg in place.) Climb the recess moving right at the top to a fixed piton under an overhang. At this point, the original route traversed left. Lassoo a spike above the overhang and, using a sling for aid, climb the overhang direct. After moving up for a few metres, traverse right around a nose and then climb to a good stance and belay.
First Ascent: Jan 1974 P Goodridge & D Hughes
LOBOTOMY     20 (G2) R **** [N]
The climb starts 2m to the left of the “obvious crack” in Deception first pitch, crosses the line of Hospital Hill and finishes up the steep face to the right of Hospital Hill’s top G2 pitch.
1.     15 (F2) 25m Climb to top of open book. Move right and step onto the face on the right. Move around the corner and climb diagonally right for 6m to stance at a peg 2m below the steep recess of HOSPITAL HILL’S top 20 (G2) pitch.
2.     20 (G2) 25m Traverse 2m right to beneath a short open book capped by an overhang, On the undercut righthand wall of this open book is an obvious horizontal crack. Reach up to the rail and climb up and to the right until you can stand out on the tip of the nose formed by the right wall of the open book (crux). Climb diagonally left for 2m then continue up steep face to the top bearing slightly right (sustained).
First Ascent: Oct 1982 J van Eeden & S J Mallory
DECEPTION     17 (F3) R [N]
The climb is located between Eve’s Pleasure and Hospital Hill. Start at cave.
1.     15 (F2) 22m Climb obvious crack just left of cave, continue easily (D) to a little cavern on right. Belay.
2.     17 (F3) 25m From righthand side of cavern climb diagonally right past fixed piton and up a further 2,5m. Traverse 1,5m right to below little overhang. This is just left of third stance of HOSPITAL HILL. Ascend overhang strenuously to welcome resting place. Continue straight up to fixed piton driven in deeply. At this point the face is overhanging. Swing out right, onto little nose, ascend diagonally right to top.
Comment: Protection is good but scarce.
First Ascent: Oct 1978 J Esterhuyse & R Davis
HOSPITAL HILL     17,A1 (F3,M1) R **** [N,2P]
The climb is located between Crescendo and Eve’s Pleasure, and starts from a cave high up. An intriguing route.
1.     9 (E2) 12m Traverse right and ascend 12m into gloomy gully closed in at top. (This is the cave with the pointed roof referred to in description of CRESCENDO.)
2.     15,A1/F20 (F2,M1) Ascend 5m and then traverse left out of the gully onto steep face. Around the corner is a fixed piton. Abseil 8m form piton and pendulum to ledge 3m to left (piton belay).
3.     17 (F3) 17m Ascend 9m then traverse 8m to the left between two overhangs. The overhang above is very large, the one below smaller and ripple-marked. (The first 1,5m of the traverse is the crux.) Piton belay at end of traverse.
4.     15 (F2) 18m Up and slightly right on steep rock with fair grips.
Variations:
2&3.     20 (G2) Avoid abseil by dropping down onto rail. Rail left strenuously.
3&4.     20 (G2) From crux move slightly left, then up overhanging recess strenuously to top.
First Ascent: May 1963 R Davies & B Penzhorn (Variations: Oct 1979 D Cheesmond, B Gross and C Lomax)
CASUALTY WARD     21 (G2) R * [N]
Start as for HOSPITAL HILL, i.e. scramble up to the base of the high “Gothic” cave which reaches right to the top of the crag. In the right wall of the cave is an overhanging jam-crack.
1.     21 (G2) 25m Climb the jam-crack into a small resting cave. Continue up the steep crack to belay in the deep, sloping cave. (Large nuts useful for runners.)
2.     15 (F2) 25m Chimney out spectacularly and horizontally to the lip of the cave and up the slab to the top.
First Ascent: Oct 1979 D Cheesmond, B Cross & C Lomax
PARANOIA     20 (G2) R *** [N]
Start 5m upstream of Casualty Ward i.e. at the upstream entrance to the cave which is several metres above the ground.
1.     17 (F3) 25m Climb up to a recess and continue up to a roof 20m up. Traverse right around the arete to gain a ledge just above a small tree on the Apex face.
2.     20 (G2) 30m Climb up diagonally right past a large loose block to a ledge then back diagonally left to the top of a block. From there move strenuously up to big jugs and finish diagonally right on smaller holds. Exit just right of aloes.
Note:
Steep sustained face climbing mostly on good jugs.
First Ascent: Feb 1985 George Mallory & S Mallory
APEX     20 (G2) R **** [N]
This climb, which has a common start with Crescendo follows an exposed line to the right of the high cave of HOSPITAL HILL.
1.     13 (F1) 15m Climb directly up to a large tree 5m above the ground and then continue diagonally rightwards via a small overhang to a small ledge. Stance is common with CRESCENDO.
2.     15 (F2) 15m Climb the recess above the stance for 5m and then traverse left for 3m along an exposed ledge. A long pull up leads on to another ledge and then continue straight up the exposed face to a very small stance with peg and nut runner belays about 3m below the overhangs and 5m right of the lip of the cave.
3.     20 (G2) 22m Step down 1,5m from stance and traverse left for 3m across the face to below a 2m recess capped by an overhang. Climb the recess to the overhang and make an exposed traverse left and then up to surmount the overhang. Continue up steep rock to a small ledge at the base of the recess. Traverse left for 1,5m and then climb the slightly overhanging face, initially on good holds, but getting poorer higher up to an off-balance resting place where a small nut runner can be placed for protection. Traverse left across the exposed face just above the roof of the cave and continue on off-balance traverse to the grey face opposite, where the angle eases. Climb easily to the top.
First Ascent: Aug 1972 Paul Fatti & Art McGarr (FFA May 1981 Kevin Smith & M Mears)
CRESCENDO     17 (F3) R *** [N]
The route is on a prominent yellow face immediately upstream of a large high “Gothic” cave, the pointed roof of which reaches nearly to the top of the krantz.
1.     11 (E3) 15m Start on a small grey face in a small corner climbing to a good ledge with two trees.
2.     15 (F2) 18m Take off from the ledge on the downstream side, climb upwards for 6m, then bear right into a corner. Climb as high as possible in the corner until it is possible to slide one’s fingers along a prominent horizontal crack in the nose on the right and taking the weight on the hands swing round the nose. Traverse right 6m to a ledge and tree.
3.     17 (E3) 22m Traverse left and diagonally upwards for about 6m where a piton can be placed which safeguards both the leader and last man on the previous pitch. Climb up onto a small leaning-out ledge by means of a long armpull then traverse 12m to the right round a nose and up past a clump of aloes.
Note:
Exposed. Strength and balance required.
First Ascent: Nov 1949 E Scholes & P Campbell
CAT WALK     17 (F3) R *** [N]
The route is on a prominent yellow face immediately upstream of a large high “Gothic” cave, the pointed roof of which reaches nearly to the top of the krantz.
1.     11 (E3) 15m Start on a small grey face in a small corner climbing to a good ledge with two trees.
2.     15 (F2) 18m Take off from the ledge on the downstream side, climb upwards for 6m, then bear right into a corner. Climb as high as possible in the corner until it is possible to slide one’s fingers along a prominent horizontal crack in the nose on the right and taking the weight on the hands swing round the nose. Traverse right 6m to a ledge and tree.
3.     15 (F2) Instead of pitch 3 above ascend the face directly above the stance. To get onto this face, a small overhang must be negotiated followed by a delicate traverse to the right (difficult). Then continue directly upwards on steep rock with good holds to the top. This variation is easier and less strenuous than the original pitch 3.
First Ascent: 1956 R Davies & R Charlton
DEEP IN SPACE     19 (G1) R *** [N]
The climb starts about 30m upstream from the start of Hospital Hill, at a point where a tall tree is growing close to the cliff. Beginning up a small chimney and continues up an attractive open book to a small tree, then traverses left over Lobotomy and back right again to finish straight up above the starting point.
1.     11 (E3) 20m Climb up chimney and open book until you reach a small stance with a small tree.
2.     19 (G1) 40m From the stance move slightly right and up for 3m to a small rest point on a large sloping ramp. Then traverse left for 7m (strenuous) to a very exposed rest point below a large semi detached flake. Move around the flake on the left and continue rightwards (awkward), then move rightwards (10m) to a small ledge with 2 good pegs in place.
3.     13 (F1) 15m Traverse left for 15m and then climb up short steep face above, between 2 large aloes to the top.
Note:
A pleasant and exposed route spoilt by poor protection and bad rock.
First Ascent: Mar 1985 N Margetts & Partner
PROBOSCIS     17 (F3) R [***]
The climb starts about 15m upstream from Crescendo opposite a large tree with trunk about 60cm in diameter. There is a small but prominent triangular overhang about 18m up which resembles a nose. The nose points downstream. The route goes to the left of the nose.
1.     7 (D) 15m Start on a staircase which goes up to the left. Then climb diagonally right to a wide ledge. This pitch is on grey rock. The remainder of the climb is on red rock.
2.     12 (E3) 8m Start at lefthand end of ledge with a pull-up. Continue up to another ledge on which there is a tree over to the right.
3.     17 (F3) 14m Start at lefthand end of ledge again. The face slopes back initially but is rather devoid of grips. It then steepens but the grips are good. At the top of the steep section which passes to the left of the nose, climb out to the right onto a small ledge. Piton belay.
4.     10 (E2) 12m Continue up pleasant clean rock to the top.
First Ascent: Mar 1950 D Bell & F Villa
BYPASS     15 (F2) R [N]
The climb is located about 10m upstream from Proboscis and generally follows the buttress on the right of Proboscis. The crux of the route is a series of small overhangs at the same level as the crux pitch on Proboscis. The route here bears left until a ledge is reached just right of the nose of Proboscis, thence up and slightly right (steep) and past a small cabbage tree. A grey face finishes the climb. There are several variations to the lower part of the climb.
First Ascent: Aug 1960 M Urban, H Blades, P Street & R Charlton
SHIBBOLETH     19 (G1) R *** [N]
Route takes a column and then a wall to the left of Fanlight.
1.     15 (F2) 20m Climb front of column turning the headwall on the left.
2.     17 (F3) 10m Step across from summit of the column onto the wall (4m to the left of Fanlight). Step diagonally left into shallow recess, then straight up steep wall 5m. Then good holds lead to belay stance.
3.     19 (G1) 10m Traverse left on a slab wall to stance directly opposite by using hand rail or by making fine moves slightly higher.
4.     19 (G1) 10m Step back right onto wall and climb shallow recess making gymnastic moves near the top to reach small stance under summit overhangs.
5.     17 (F3) 15m Traverse right 5m (where a stance can be made if rope drag is anticipated). Step up left onto sloping block and make exposed moves over roof then climb wall to summit.
Note:
Owing to zig-zag nature of route the pitches have been kept short.
First Ascent: Mar 1980 C Ward & A Wood
FANLIGHT     17 (F3) R ** [N]
The climb is situated just below Easy Way Out, starting behind prominent pinnacle.
1.     11 (E3) 18m Start up face. Traverse 3m right into crack. Climb overhang in crack and continue up crack to stance below face.
Variation:
1.     17 (F3) 18m Instead of the first pitch, ascend the steep face immediately behind the pinnacle.
2.     17 (F3) 18m The pitch follows a shallow crack, sloping slightly left, with an eyehole at the top which is visible from below. Start pitch by mantleshelf and then move left to crack. Follow the crack to the eyehole which is at an overhang and finish up short face to top. This pitch was opened artificially, but has since been found feasible free.
First Ascent: Aug 1960 R Charlton, B Penzhorn, M Urban & Miss S McLean
EASY WAY OUT     7 (D) R [N]
The start is from approximately the same position as for Easy Option. Having gained the rocky ledge about 9m above stream bed follow this to its left extremity from where a 3,5m wide slab inclined at an easy angle slopes up almost to the summit. The route lies on this slab all the way to the top.
First Ascent: R Forsyth
EASY OPTION     11 (E3) R * [N]
Start about 3m to right of Easy Way Out.
1.     11 (E3) 22m Ascend face moving left for 2m then straight up for 6m. Climb left into diagonally right sloping corner crack up to corner belay 14m.
2.     9 (E1) 20m Proceed directly up easy face. Ascend to top moving slightly left.
First Ascent: H Wong
SWISS ARMY KNIFE     17 (F3) R **** [N]
Start about 5m to the left of the first pitch of Headache, where there is a small recess leading up to a smooth face. Ascend easy rock for about 9m to a large ledge below the recess.
1.     17 (F3) 30m Gain the recess by a difficult layback move and continue up the face just to the right of the recess for about 5m before traversing back left into it. Climb up for 3m, step out left onto the arete and continue up a further 2m to the slanting overlap at the top of the recess, where a small nut runner can be placed. Move up a few metres and then step out left onto the steep face. Climb up this, diagonally left for the first 5m and then diagonally back right and up to a small stance with thread belay about 5m left of the stance on top of pitch 2 of Headache.
2.     17 (F3) 24m (Same as variation for pitch 3 of HEADACHE) Ascend diagonally leftward into small alcove, above which is an overhanging V-shaped crack. Traverse out right and ascend steep face and then continue more easily to the top.
First Ascent: Oct 1969 Paul Fatti, J Anderson & M Saunders.
HEADACHE     16/17 (F3) R *** [N,1P]
The route starts about 20m downstream of GEORGE midway between two large trees, of trunk diameters approx. 3/4 to 1m. Ascend easy rock to a rock ledge about 9m.
1.     11 (E3) 18m Follow the line of a very definite corner vertically up from the ledge to a small stance where the corner ends in an overhang.
2.     16 (F3) 3m Ascend to a narrow ledge to the left of the overhang at the top of the sloping slab, slightly to left of the start. (There is a fixed piton under the overhang. If this is used for aid or if shoulder is taken, grade is F1.)
3.     8 (E1) 12m Traverse 14m left into prominent crack (Easy Option).
Variation:
3a.     17 (F3) 18m For an independent finish traverse left 6m from the stance at top of Pitch 2. Then ascend into a small alcove, above which is an overhanging V-shaped crack. Traverse out to the right and ascend a steep face (strenuous) to a big ledge where a small block rests. This pitch is midway between pitch 2 above and the crack of Easy Option.
3b.     17 (F3) 18m From the top of pitch 2 continue up crack directly above to top. This is a more direct finish than 3a above.
4.     10 (E2) 12m Ascend rough rock to top.
First Ascent: 1948 T Louw, L Lincoln, G Thompson, R Davies & RCharlton
MIGRAINE     18,A1 (F3,M1) R **** [N,6P]
The route is located between GEORGE and HEADACHE. Between these climbs prominent overhangs cross the face about 1/3 to 2/3 way up. The first overhang is passed by climbing the same recess used by the first pitch of HEADACHE, but 3m to the right. The route avoids the second overhang by traversing across the undercut face between the overhangs and ascending to a prominent nose.
1.     18 (F3) 15m Start from same ledge as HEADACHE but 3m to right. Ascend white recessed face, past fixed piton 3m up to a small stance (piton belay).
2.     15,A1 (F2,M1) 12m Diagonally right, 9m up. Traverse right around rib into crack. Ascend crack then traverse about 3m across face with 3 pitons A1 (M1). The piton crack used is 1,5m above the undercut bottom edge of the face. Climb diagonally right from the last piton into a shallow recess. Ascend the recess to overhang and then swing out to right onto tip of nose. (Piton belay – this stance is 6m to left of stance at top of pitch 3 of George.)
Variation:
2.     18 (F3) Instead of traversing on aid, continue up for 8m, then move right across wall over to the nose.
3.     10 (E2) 15m Ascend sloping face to top, finishing with short chimney.
Variation:
2 & 3.     19 (G1) 25m Instead of traversing right on Pitch 2, climb directly up the flared crack to the top.
First Ascent: Feb 1960 R Davies, P Scott & M Urban
FACE VALUE     21 (G2) R *** [N,R]
Start 3m left of George.
1.     18 (F3) 15m On the left side of the grey slab is a thin crack. Climb this to a ledge with two small trees.
2.     21 (G2) 40m Take off from the left end of the ledge and climb up 5m to a mini-stance. Move diagonally right for a few moves then up to an incut rail (good friend placements). Traverse right for one metre then move up using a layback hold (to avoid George). Climb up diagonally left and then up the grey slab to the top. (Avoid the arete, finish up a grassy break.)
Note:
1.     This route is not well protected.
First Ascent: May 1985 George Mallory & Kevin Smith
GEORGE     15 (F2) R **** [N]
The climb is immediately adjacent to TRIDENT CHIMNEY. The entire route follows the face of the rockwall facing upstream due to its right-angled bend. (See location of TRIDENT CHIMNEY.)
1.     14 (F1) 12m Up sloping grey slab starting on right and bearing diagonally left. A study in thin climbing. A ledge and small tree for belay.
2.     14 (F1) 15m Up corner on right side of ledge to overhang, step out to left and to top of gendarme with a big tree as belay. (Strenuous.)
Variation:
2a.     15 (F2) About 3,5m up pitch 2, traverse right onto ridge and continue up steep rock with good grips.
3.     15 (F2) 9m A few metres up rock face behind tree, short traverse to left and follow a deep sharp crack to ledge with a very large detached but substantial block as belay.
4.     9 (E1) 15m Up in corner to summit.
First Ascent: Jul 1947 T J Louw, W L Curie, E Lude & EPearlstein
TRIDENT CHIMNEY     10 (E2) R [N]
Approximately 50m downstream from the start of the main rock face on the righthand side of the kloof the rock wall makes a double right angle bend first into the kloof then back to its normal line parallel with the kloof. At the internal angle of this bend is a deep and prominent chimney with various chockstones caught in it. The route follows the chimney to the top. Climb out on right at top.
Note:
1.     There is loose rock in the chimney requiring care.
First Ascent: Jul 1947 T Bright & H Wong
THROATSTOPPER DIVINE     15 (F2) R [N]
The climb is situated 5m to the left of NEPTUNE, just to the left of the large poised block and is beaconed. The climb follows the most feasible line on the large bare face between TRIDENT CHIMNEY and NEPTUNE.
1.     10 (E2) 22m From the beacon up the lefthand crack of a fault line to take off, then straight up for 9m, keeping well left of large poised block. At the level of the top of the block, traverse 9m left and up onto a large ledge with a tree belay.
2.     11 (E3) 25m Walk along the ledge to the right, up and around on broken mass of jutting out rock then diagonally up to the right and through a 3m high flat-backed V-shaped recess. From the top of this down 1,5m to the left to a small tree on a small stance. tree and nut belay.
3.     15 (F2) 34m Up from tree for 3m, then diagonally left towards a conspicuous nose 3m or so away. Up onto the nose, then ascend vertically for 18m until a ledge obscured by a vine hanging down the face is reached. From the ledge traverse 3m right to a platform. Up a few metres and scramble 6m diagonally to the left over blocks to a tree belay.
Note:
1.     In the opening ascent a sling tied to the vine was the only protection found after a 22m runout, hence the climb’s name.
First Ascent: Aug 1975 T O’Connor & Roy Kendall
NEPTUNE     15 (F2) R *** [N]
The climb is situated on the centre of the face between TRIDENT RIDGE and TRIDENT CHIMNEY. It starts at a point where the bottom of the face is slightly undercut.
1.     13 (F1) 14m Ascend a steep grey face, passing to the right of a large poised block, traverse right under a small overhang and thence up to a comfortable stance having a stout tree on it.
Variation:
1.     11 (E3) There are easier variations on either side of Pitch 1.
2.     15 (F2) 15m Starting about 2,5m to left of tree, ascend to overhang, then traverse right to base of open book. The open book is the crux of the pitch. It ends on a narrow ledge (stance).
Variation:
2.     6 (D) The open book of Pitch 2 can be avoided by traversing left at its base onto easy rock which continues to the narrow ledge.
3.     13 (F1) 30m Traverse right past overhanging recess for about 8m and then ascend 12m bearing slightly left until a smaller recess (which was also passed at a lower level during the traverse) is reached. There is a small tree in the recess a few metres higher. Traverse left onto a small exposed buttress and continue up to a stance about 3m higher in grassy cubby hole.
Variation:
3.     11 (E3) Instead of traversing left onto “exposed buttress” in Pitch 3, continue up recess past the small tree.
4.     6 (D) 9m Ascend diagonally to the right on rough granulated rock to the summit.
First Ascent: 1952 R Davies, T J Louw & D M Williamson
MERMAID     15 (F2) R [N]
The climb starts about 10m to the right (upstream) of the start of NEPTUNE.
1.     13 (F1) 25m Climb face 10m, traverse right 3m and move up to large ledge and stance.
2.     13 (F1) 20m Move up 2m, traverse left 3m into shallow recess. Climb recess and small face to stance.
3.     15 (F2) 22m Ascend face moving about 2m to the left then diagonally up to the right. Traverse 3m left then vertically up to the top.
First Ascent: Jan 1987 Merv Prior & R Green
BOMBAY MANGOES     19 (G1) R [N]
Start just right of NEPTUNE.
1.     15 (F2) 25m Climb good-looking recess 2m upstream of NEPTUNE for 20m. Traverse right immediately below NEPTUNE’S ledge. Stance at end of ledge.
2.     19 (G1) Climb lefthand weakness immediately above pillarlet to good ledge (good well-rounded grips). Traverse right to small tree and up grey slab to obvious traverse line left. Traverse left for 4,5m. Stance below first recess (parallel to Neptune’s recess).
3.     13 (F1) Climb recess for 3m. Move diagonally up and right to top.
First Ascent: Mar 1985 J de Groot & G Graafland
TRIDENT RIDGE     7 (D) R [N]
At the upper reaches of Trident Kloof a steep grassy gully enters the kloof on the right side opposite the entrance of a well-wooded side kloof on the left side. This gully is bounded on the downstream side by a steep rock wall about 40m long terminating in Trident Chimney.
Starting at a point near the lower portion of the gully where it reaches the bottom of Trident kloof, the climb goes up the main rock face adjacent to the ridge bounding the gully.
The route is not well defined and a fair amount of variation is possible, becoming more difficult downstream.
First Ascent: J Botha & F Pretorius


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