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Upper Tonquani Kloof


Bernard Spies on Genesis (23) in Upper Tonquani, Magaliesberg. Photo by: Christie Terrell

Bernard Spies on Genesis (23) in Upper Tonquani, Magaliesberg. Photo by: Christie Terrell

This is one of the most popular kloofs with almost 150 routes. They are mostly multi-pitch natural routes. These routes see grades from 5 to 25. Many classics can be found here such as Hawk’s Eye, Stone Needle and so forth.

This is the grandest and most scenically attractive kloof in the Magaliesberg. The access traverse above the pools between Upper and Lower Tonquani (C) is over polished rock and is hazardous to inexperienced parties. The upper meet point is below Kitchen Crack. The longest climbs are on the Coffin Buttress (80m). The climbs elsewhere averaging 40-50m. The rock is generally excellent and water is always available.

Access

This is also an MCSA owned kloof and  permits should be obtained – see the main page for details. It is part of the Tonquani Complex. Contact the MCSA for more access details.
Routes/ Gradings

Aspect

There is plenty of water and some impressive pools all surrounded by forests.  Climbing is good all year round.

PDF Topo Download

Upper Tonquani New Routes Wiki

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Upper_Tonquani_%28trad%29

Upper Tonquani Kloof Routes

Chocolate Factory

These climbs are all mostly bolted but without top anchors. This area slots between GULIVER’S TRAVELS & DEFAMATION.

LAST TRAIN TO GLORY     21 (G2) L *** [N,3B]
A number 2 or 3 rock is useful for the start of the climb.
First Ascent: 1990 R Dodding Bolted By D Margetts

CADBURY     22 (G3) L ** [N,3B]
Poorly Bolted.
First Ascent: 1989 M Cartwright, C O’Dowd

NESTLE     23 (H1) L ** [N,3B]
Poorly bolted.
First Ascent: 1989 M Cartwright, C O’Dowd

BEACON     18 (G1) L *** [N,3B]
First Ascent: 1989 M Cartwright, C O’Dowd

AFRICAN SKY BLUE     24 (H1) L *** [N,3B]
First Ascent: 1989 M Cartwright

MAGIX     24 (H2) L **** [N,4B]
First Ascent: 1989 M Seegers, D Margetts

SMAGIX     L [2B]
Project. Needs more bolts.
First Ascent: D Margetts, M Seegers

TEXBAR     18 (G1) L ** [N]
Climb Recess to right of the slab.
First Ascent: 1990 D Margetts, M Seegers, A Mercer

CRUNCHIE     19 (G1) L ** [N,1B]
Climb slab past bush.
First Ascent: 1990 D Margetts, M Seegers, A Mercer

RETURN OF THE JEDI     21 L *** [N,3B]
Climb up right hand gulley, move left onto slab.
First Ascent: 1989 D Margetts, T Truter, M Seegers

Junction Kloof

This Kloof is located at the source end of Upper Tonquani kloof. All the climbs are situated on the true right side.

ON A ROLL     15 (F2) L ** [N]
1.     15 (F2) 30m Climb the face left of forever young.
First Ascent: 1989 D Margetts, A Mercer, M Seegers

FOREVER YOUNG     15 (F2) L ** [N]
1.     15 (F2) 30m Climb the break left of the second dan.
First Ascent: 1989 D Margetts, M Seegers, A Mercer
LEFT UNCONQUERABLE     21 (G2) L *** [N]
This climb starts right of Stop Press. Below a steep face with a vine hanging down.
1.     17 (F3) 20m Climb up directly below the vine, move right to avoid the vine. Continue up to a ledge.
2.     21 (G2) 15m Above is a steep buttress with two breaks. Climb the left hand break.
First Ascent: 1989 D Margetts, A Mercer
BEING THERE     13 (F1) R ** [N]
1.     13 (F1) 20m This climb ascends a steep looking slab with a break up the middle on the lower right hand side of Junction kloof. Scramble up non descript rock to base of slab.
First Ascent: 1989 M Seegers, D Margetts
SECOND DAN     11 (E3) R *
Begin at the front of the buttress alongside a large knobbled tree and left of Red Rooster on the extreme left of the upper amphitheatre.
1.     25m E3 11 Climb 3m in a recess then move up and left onto the main buttress. Move up 5m then traverse right onto the downstream side. Climb up stepped blocks to ledge at foot of 90 degree corner.
2.     15m E2 10 Climb in corner passing a tree with a large horizontal bough close to face.
First Ascent: May 1982 R Fox and D Scott.
RED ROOSTER     15 (F2) R **
Situated right of Second Dan. Start on the right of the arete and to the right of a small recess capped by a shelf and left of tall overhanging square reddish corner.
1.     35m F2 15 Climb up 2m right of the recess and make an awkward move left onto the shelf. Continue without deviation directly up the crest of the arete to the top.
Note : A very clean route being steep and sustained in its middle section.
First Ascent: Apr 1982 C Fatti and R Fox.
POGUE MAHONE     20 (G2) R **
The climb lies in the middle of the upper buttress between Red Rooster and Grey Hen. The climb goes up a clean well-defined corner which leads past a ledge 7m up. The climb finishes next to a prominent projecting nose on the top of the crag.
1.     21m G2 20 Climb the corner gaining the ledge at 7m with difficulty. Continue up the corner to a large ledge.
2.     20m G1 19 Climb the corner for 5m to where it steepens. Continue up the corner for 2m to gain a small ledge (strenuous). Traverse right across the face for 5m and continue up to the top.
First Ascent: May 1982 D Peters and M Arsenjevic.
GREY HEN     10 (E2) R
Start 2m right of the 90 degree red corner described in Red Rooster.
1.     20m E2 10 Climb up slightly diagonally right for 20m to a ledge.
2.     15m E2 10 Move slightly left and continue up grey rock to the top.
First Ascent: May 1982 C and A Fatti.
STOP PRESS     19 (G1) R
No route description available

THIRD DAN     13 (F1) R
Start 8m left of Let’s Do It, behind a knobby stamvrug tree.
1.     23m F1 13 Climb 5m through a recess, making use of a lay-away hold and up to small crooked tree. Continue up recess for 8m to an overhang, then move left, stepping down 1m to a ledge. Move further left 3m, then climb face above for 6m through a slight recess to a broad ledge.
2.     18m F1 13 Traverse easily left on broad ledge, then climb arete edge to top.
Note : Good rock, but has overhung vegetation in two places.
First Ascent: Sep 1982 B Schumacher, D Scott, R Fox.
LET’S DO IT     13 (F1) R **
Start on the upstream side of the arete, near the extreme right of the upper amphitheatre (see map).
1.     30m E2 10 Climb in corner for 10m and move right 2m on to a block. Climb 5m up on the left hand side of the arete, then traverse right on a narrow ledge past a large loose suspended flake onto a square ledge on the down stream side. Climb the corner above for 10m until blocked by a small overhang (stance).
2.     12m F1 13 Move up 2m, swing left onto the arete and do a press-up onto the ledge (crux). Climb final face for 10m.
Note : It is better to keep the climb as two pitches to avoid rope drag.
First Ascent: Apr 1982 C Fatti and R Fox.
FATTYPUFF     19 (G1) R ***
1.     8m F1 13 Climb steep face to ledge. Continue up corner crack to stance below a thin crack.
2.     25m G1 19 Climb up thin crack to sloping ledge. Traverse diagonally down right and then delicately further right to a small ledge below a steep crack. Climb this and then diagonally up right to a resting ledge just left of the main recess (18 G1). Climb up steeply (19 G1) past overhang in recess to ledge with tree. Continue up on right to next ledge and stance. Climb up shallow rounded recess to top.
First Ascent: 1982 C and P Fatti.
KNOBBLED     7 (D) R *
Start in a broad upstream-facing recess beneath the first high crag encountered when moving upstream from Junction Pools.
1.     15m D 7 Climb the recess and emerge through a gap in a pile of wedged blocks.
2.     25m D 6 Ad lib up the knobby faces directly above the stance.

Main Kloof

BLOODY LEG     15 (F2) R [N]
About 200m right of Avalanche Corner is a bowed slab with a yellow-brown face on the right.
1.     25m F1 13 Climb a slab into a red corner and overhang situated on the right. Traverse out right and up to a ledge.
2.     20m F2 15 Traverse left and make an awkward move up over an overhang to a ledge. Climb crack system to top.
First Ascent: Oct 1974 H Vogl and C Ward.

JUGULAR     16 (F3) R ** [N]
The climb goes diagonally left up the scooped red face 200m upstream of Reunion Gully. Start 2m to the left of the corner used by Bloody Leg.
1.     30m E3 11 Climb the crack line in the slab for 15m where the rock turns orange and the slab becomes vertical. Traverse 5m left and climb up to the right of a grey rounded blob of rock to gain a ledge. Traverse left and belay in the corner beneath the steep corner.
2.     20m F2 16 Climb the steep smooth corner above.
First Ascent: Jan 1982 D Peters, C Fatti and G Moseley.
THE GREAT PERSUADER     15 (F2) R [N]
Situated to the right of Avalanche Corner in a prominent red corner, which tends to overhang at the top.
1.     28m F2 15 Start 4,5m left of the corner and climb up, moving right and up until a small recess is reached (20m). Care must be taken on some loose rock here. Climb up to a piton on the right wall of the corner (left in place) and then move down 1,5m and traverse out of the corner (going right) past a nose onto a small ledge below a grey face. Climb the face to a stance below some overhangs (tree belay).
2.     14m E3 11 Starting right of the tree, climb up the obvious break and traverse left for 4,5m. Climb the red face above to the base of an overhang and traverse into a recess using a good handrail below the overhang. Climb the recess to the top.
First Ascent: Jul 1974 T Hog and T White.
BABOON TRAVERSE     7 (D) R [N]
Above the confluence of the two streams in Tonquani. About 110m east of a landslide on a noticeable formation where the lower half of the rock face projects out of the krantz forming a buttress while the upper half over the same length lags further back thus leaving a terrace which stands well out over high bush on the slope.
1.     4,5m D 7 Up in chimney on left inside corner of buttress then left above chockstone on to easy rock where a good belay is found a few metres higher.
2.     25m D 7 An easy scramble to the terrace over loose boulders. Keep right. This pitch can be started at various points. The object is a horizontal crack leading into a recessed corner on right hand half of face. This corner brings the climber to left end of a ledge which runs across the face 4,5m below the top. Belay.
3.     ?m C 5 A walk or crawl to the other end of the ledge and over masses of chockstones to the top.
First Ascent: Apr 1937 H Ruhle, E Ruhle and T Lassen
AVALANCHE CORNER     15 (F2) R [N]
The climb is situated on the left hand end of the krantz which overlooks the upper camp site, immediately to the right of a prominent rock landslide in a right-angled gully. This point is about 90m upstream of Reunion Gully.
1.     25m E2 10 Ascend face for 9m keeping close as possible to right hand wall,then move diagonally upwards and left for 15m to a cubby hole beneath overhang.
2.     30m F2 15 Move up on to corner overlooking the landslide gully. Climb up slightly overhanging recess and continue up corner until an overhang bars further progress. At this point traverse right on to vertical face and climb to top keeping as far to left as possible. The pitch ends about 3m left of a small tree near the top of the face.
Note : Care is needed on loose rock at the start of pitch 2.
First Ascent: Oct 1957 R Kinsley, M Armstrong and J Billman.
BOG OF ETERNAL STENCH     20 (G2) R *** [N]
10m upstream of Beyond the Vertical gully (obvious corner).
1.     25m G2 20 Climb corner to roof (4m). Peg under roof. Pull through on right and straight up wall above to right of recess. Move left at about 10m and follow obvious crack to top.
Note : This route has been done before but not written up.
First Ascent: May 1987 R Nattrass and S Middlemiss.
SEEING IS BELIEVING     22 (G3) R *** [N]
Start 3m right of Cream Team.
1.     12m G3 22 Crank up from a large square hold to just reach a small hold below a small roof. Rail left until able to climb up and back right to larger holds at the base of a short left facing dihedral. Pull up into this and exit right.
First Ascent: Jul 1985 K M Smith, G Mallory and M Brunke.
CREAM TEAM     19 (G1) R *** [N]
A 2m by 5m roof is situated on the true right wall of Reunion Gully. Cream Team takes the obvious crack up the wall to the left of the roof.
1.     15m G1 19 Pull up from a hollow sounding rail to reach small holds and follow the crack to the top.
First Ascent: Jul 1985 G Mallory, K M Smith, M Smith, M Brunke and MHaffner.
BEYOND THE VERTICAL     22 (G3) R *** [N]
Takes the break 1 to 2m left of Cream Team. Start 2m left of Cream Team’s undercut base.
1.     15m G3 22 Climb a smooth slab to a bottomless cubbyhole beneath a roof. Pull through to a fin. Climb the crack up to the steep wall above, finally stepping right and using the arete to top out.
First Ascent: Jul 1985 K M Smith, G Mallory and M Brunke.
YOUR EVIL DUKINESS     14 (F1/F2) R *** [N]
Takes the small open book 2,5 meters to the right of JEREMIAH WAS A BULLFROG (cairn).
1.     23m 14 (F1/F2) Climb the broken rock to the base of the crack system in the open book above. Jam up this then stem delicately to clear to the left and ascend to the same stance as used by JEREMIAH WAS A BULLFROG.
Notes: 1. Protection is good.
2. An excellent route for what, at first sight, seems to be choss.
First Ascent: Oct 1992 TP Wilmot, PJ Duggan
JEREMIAH WAS A BULLFROG     14 (F1/F2) R ** [N]
Takes the layback crack high up, below the square roof some five meters to the right of LITTLE CREATURES (cairn).
1.     22m 14 (F1/F2) Climb the broken rock to start and gain the base of the superb layback type crack above. Stem/layback up this until the square roof is reached. Break right to clear. Ascend the arete to the comfortable belay ledge above.
Notes: 1. Protection is good.
2. A good route, in its mid reaches.
First Ascent: Sep 1992 TP Wilmot, PJ Duggan
TOADWART     16 (F2/F3) R *** [N]
Takes the shallow obvious open book midway between LITTLE CREATURES and JEREMIAH WAS A BULLFROG. Starts behind the gnarled tree (cairn).
1.     22m 16 (F2/F3) Take off with difficulty to gain the 2m layback crack immediately above. Layback up this to reach a good resting ledge above. Move up to gain the distinct open book. Follow this until forced out left. Gain the left arete by delicate manoeuvring. Follow the arete to the comfortable belay stance above.
Notes: 1. Protection is good.
2. An excellent short route.
First Ascent: Oct 1992 TP Wilmot, PJ Duggan
LITTLE CREATURES     16 (F2) R ** [N]
Starts at the same place as Combat Rock and takes the obvious open book 4m to the right.
1.     20m F1 16 Climb straight up the face to a ledge/rail at 6m. Move right into the corner. Climb the corner.
First Ascent: Jun 1987 M Cartwright (solo).
COMBAT ROCK     19 (G1) R *** [N]
Start 4m to the right of Living in The Past (cairn).
1.     20m G1 19 Climb straight up the face to a ledge at 6m. Balancy moves up right to a peg, then move right to a rest on a nose. Climb straight up above the nose tending slightly left to finish up the steep wall above.
First Ascent: Jun 1987 S Middlemiss, M Cartwright and A Margetts.
LIVING IN THE PAST     18 (G1) R ** [N]
Between Reunion gully and the Cream Team gully is an upstream-facing wall about 20m high.
1.     20m G1 18 Start in the middle of the face (cairn) and climb the blocky crack to a ledge (6m). Move a meter right and climb up for a few meters until it is possible to move diagonally left to a recess which is followed to the top.
First Ascent: May 1987 S Middlemiss and R Nattrass.
PARTY GIRL     21 (G2) R *** [N]
Start 5m to the left of Living in the Past at a blunt arete (cairn).
1.     25m G2 21 Climb the arete tending right to the ledge (8m). Move up to the rail and move left to the base of the right-tending diagonal crack. Follow this to where it finishes and move 2m left under the roof/overlap. Pull through and climb the wall above.
First Ascent: Jun 1987 S Middlemiss.
GOOD TIME     16 (F2/F3) R ** [N]
Climbs the broken looking open book immediately downstream of the arete taken by PARTY GIRL – cairn.
1.     25m 16 (F2/F3) Climb the steep broken open book and clear the small roof on the left. Move up the blocky ground above to reach the steep open book immediately downstream of the PARTY GIRL arete. Climb this and take comfortable stance on top.
Notes: 1. Protection is reasonable.
2. A surprisingly good short route.
First Ascent: Jan 1995 U Kiefer, TP Wilmot
IT’S A HARD LIFE     15 (F2) R ** [N]
Climbs the groove immediately downstream of GOOD TIME – cairn.
1.     25m 15 (F2) Climb the groove and stem comfortably past the roof. Move up the blocky ground above to reach the open book immediately downstream of that taken by GOOD TIME. Move up this via fist width crack to reach the comfortable belay stance just short of the summit.
Notes: 1. Protection is adequate.
2. An excellent short route.
First Ascent: Mar 1995 TP Wilmot, U Kiefer
SHORT SHIT     14 (F1/F2) R [N]
Climbs the obvious broken groove at the right extremity of the blocky wall on the opposite side of the narrow gully containing GOOD TIME and PART GIRL – cairn.
1.     25m 14 (F1/F2) Climbs the groove, watch for loose shit here and there. Follow the obvious line to the top.
Note: Loose in places.
First Ascent: Jan 1995 TP Wilmot, U Kiefer
THE DRAGON OF RONDEBOSCH     16 (F3) R [N]
Climbs the blocky face to the right of Foad. Start at the tree.
1.     25m 16 F3 Climb straight up the middle of the loosish, blocky face moving slightly left to pull through the roof at the top.
Note : Not recommended.
First Ascent: Dec 1989 S Middlemiss and I Schwartz
FOAD     17 (F3) R * [N]
The climb takes the obvious cracked red recess 12m to the right of the Reunion cave.
1.     20m F3 17 Start at the base of the recess and climb directly to the overhang which is turned with technique. Easier rock is followed to a stance.
An old piton three-quarters of the way up to the overhang suggests that the line had been attempted in earlier times.
First Ascent: May 1982 K Smith and M Mears.
FITH     19 (G1) R ** [N]
Takes overhanging recess between After The Goldrush and Foad on the Reunion Buttress. Start 3m left of Foad (cairn).
1.     35m G1 19 Climb up blocky face onto slab below overhang. Pull though overhang into recess above, and follow to top. The grade eases to F2 after 20m.
Note : The presence of an old rusty peg in the easier upper section suggests that a previous party traversed into this upper portion of the recess, or an abseil took place.
First Ascent: Dec 1985 S Middlemiss (not followed).
AFTER THE GOLDRUSH     19 (G1) R * [N]
The route starts from the top of the tapered block forming the right hand side of Reunion cave, and climbs straight up through steep rock.
1.     12m G1 19 Climb a slight bulge to footholds beneath the small overhang. Pull through onto easier rock. Move up and step left to stance at base of a recess.
2.     25m F2 15 Follow the recess/cracks to the top. (Slightly unsound rock).
First Ascent: Feb 1983 K Smith and M Mears.
REUNION     12 (E3) R *** [N]
Situated about 135m up kloof from Short Gully at the extreme right hand end of Donkerhoek Buttress. Start just to left of cave in a steeply sloping recess.
1.     18m E2 10 Follow the recess until a small overhang is reached. About 11m up move out to the right and then continue up to a ledge. Traverse 3,5m right to a stance.
2.     12m E3 12 Proceed straight up a crack above the tree until an overhang is reached. A hand hold is available high up in a crack behind the overhang which enables one to lean outward in an exposed position and get round the overhang into a crack on the right where it is possible to move diagonally upwards to the right on to a good platform and tree belay.
3.     15m E2 10 Climb a narrow chimney for 4,5m and step out to the left onto the face. Climb straight up over some blocks to the summit beacon.
Variations :
1.     F1 13 Start the climb next to a red face topped by an overhang on the Reunion Gully side, 30m upstream from normal start. Ascend a crack and then traverse out left (crux) onto the smooth red face. Continue traversing left around corner arriving at stance at top of normal first pitch.
2.     F2 15 Climb crack system above the overhang. Instead of moving right, continue up the thin crack to top.
First Ascent: Jan 1947 J Botha, R Ruhle and H Rowland
MODJAJI     19 (G1) R [N]
Climbs the wall to the right of “Reunion Slab”.
1.     25m 19 G1 Starting on the right of the wall, move up and left onto the wall and then straight on up through the roofs to the rap tree.
First Ascent: Jan 1988 S Middlemiss
REUNION SLAB     15 (F2) R ** [N]
Start about 5m downstream of Reunion.
1.     25m F1 13 Ascend a smooth but sloping slab, having a wall on its right and an overhang on top. Near the overhang traverse left for 8m to a slight ridge. Ascend this for 9m to a narrow ledge which can be followed to the right to a stance at the first tree.
2.     9m C 5 Traverse right to a stance below a wide recess of red rock.
3.     15m F2 15 Ascend the red rock (steep) and traverse out left (mantleshelf) on to easy rock, which is followed to the top.
Variation :
2.     25m F1 13 Make a small (piton) stance below the slight ridge referred to under first pitch. Continue upwards and to the left into a recess, which is followed to the top. (Obviates pitches 2 and 3.)
First Ascent: 1950 W F Bright and R F Davies.
CHOP SUEY     13 (F1) R [N]
This climb is located on the grey lichen-covered face between Reunion Slab and Donkerhoek Corner. There is plenty of scope for variation in this vicinity.
1.     22m E2 10 Start just left of the slab in Reunion Slab. Ascend grey face bearing slightly left until a ledge is reached with a tree at its left end.
2.     18m F1 13 Ascend from right hand end of ledge until the face steepens. Then move right into a somewhat dirty recess. Ascend the recess, or one of its walls, to the top.
First Ascent: Jan 1966 D Lubbe, J Koorts, T Rademeyer R Erens and GViljoen.
BY GEORGE     16 (F3) R * [N]
The route is on the left hand half of the grey lichen-covered face between Reunion Slab and Donkerhoek Corner. Once the steep section at the start has been completed a certain amount of variation is possible.
About 9m to the right of Donkerhoek Corner there is a crack running up the face, which becomes a thin slit after 6m. The climb starts 3m to the right of this crack, from a block 4,5m above the base.
1.     25m F3 16 The take-off involves strenuous pull-up moves (crux). Move slightly left to crack up right edge of large firm flake. Ascend about 6m then diagonally up right 6m and then diagonally back left 6m to a good stance at left hand end of ledge (tree).
2.     22m E3 11 Continue up the crack directly above the tree. Then halfway up the pitch move diagonally left finishing just left of a bunch of creepers.
First Ascent: Jan 1966 Started by G Viljoen. Jun 1966 Completed by J Anderson and M Makowski.
IST     16 (F2) R ** [N]
The climb starts up the prominent crack about 9m to the right of Donkerhoek Corner.
1.     40m F2 16 Scramble up to the wide base of the crack. The crux is a few metres up where the crack closes. Continue with the crack until aloes are reached. Move left onto the face and climb more or less straight up to the top, passing a couple of old pegs on the way.
First Ascent: Mar 1984 K M Smith and M Smith.
C’EST LA VIE     25 (H2) R ***** [N]
Climbs the smooth wall, with two bolts, to the right of “Stone Needle”.
1.     15m 25 H2 From the base of “Stone Needle” climb diagonally right to the first bolt. Climb straight to the top past the second bolt.
First Ascent: Feb 1988 R Nattrass.
STONE NEEDLE     20 (G2) R **** [N]
Start 3m to the right of Donkerhoek Corner.
1.     12m G2 20 Climb the thin crack (technical) to a comfortable tree belay.
2.     25m F2 16 Climb the open book, move through a tree, and then climb the steep section above, bearing left at the top to avoid most of the loose rock.
Note : A “Rock 2″ or equivalent is useful for protection in the initial crack.
First Ascent: Mar 1984 K M Smith and M Smith.
DONKERHOEK CORNER     13 (F1) R ** [N]
The climb is in the corner around to the right and out of sight of Donkerhoek Recess.
1.     12m F1 13 Ascend the corner and move right to a comfortable tree belay. (Crux in first 3m).
2.     30m E2 10 Continue up the corner as far as an overhang. From this point traverse left across a pleasant red face for about 5m and ascend to the top via a recess at the end of the overhang. The route ends about 3m right of the finish of Donkerhoek Recess.
First Ascent: 1952 R Charlton and E Ruhle.
DONKERHOEK RECESS     12 (E3) R *** [N]
The climb takes a well-defined crack/chimney 5m to the left of Donkerhoek Corner.
1.     18m E3 12 Start in undercut crack with grey face at left (the take-off is the crux). Ascend crack to stance above large block.
2.     25m D 7 From boulder stance follow crack to summit of buttress ridge, keeping on left corner of crack towards middle of pitch.
Variation :
2.     E1 8 From about 6m above block belay at top of first pitch, traverse across face to right into third crack. Climb this vertically for about 12m then bear away to the left diagonally upwards to rejoin the original route at a point in the first crack just before the summit is reached.
2.     10 (E2) Four meters from boulder stance (past tree) move left onto face. Climb this vertically alongside recess on good holds all the way to the top. Excellent line.
First Ascent: 1938 H Barker 1938 C Nicholls (First Variation)
LAATLAMMERTJIE     16 (F3)
Start as for DONKERHOEK RECESS. Just before reaching the ledge with the large block, step right onto the face between DONKERHOEK RECESS and DONKERHOEK CORNER. Follow the crack/recess up, passing the vegetation on the right. As the crack veers left towards DONKERHOEK RECESS, continue directly up the face, to reach the leftward traverse of DONKERHOEK CORNER. Finish as for DONKERHOEK CORNER. Variation – finish directly at about 15.
First Ascent: Dec 2003 Dylan Morgan, Adam Feldman
BEETLEJUICE     15 (F2) R **** [N]
This climb starts 1m to the left of the climb “Donkerhoek Recess”. The climb is marked by a crack running through the overhang to the face above.
1.     30m 15 F2 Starting 1m to the left of “Donkerhoek Recess”, climb diagonally left, past a tree to a small stance below an overhang with a crack cutting through it. Climb the crack and pull through the overhang. Climb the face above for 20m exiting slightly left of an overhang.
First Ascent: Jan 1989 D Margetts, M Seegers, T Truter and F Nel
DONKERHOEK FACE     16 (F2) R **** [N]
Start on the right of a collection of large boulders.
1.     8m F2 16 A steep right-angled recess is climbed until a narrow ledge running off to the left is reached.
2.     6m E2 10 Traverse left along the ledge and then ascend a steep corner with good holds to a small stance at the foot of a long flat face (small bollard for belay).
3.     28m E3 12 Traverse right 2m (thin). Ascend the face to the top. Exposure is noticeable but grips although sometimes small are never lacking.
Pitches 1, 2 and 3 can be climbed as one pitch.
Variation :
2.     F2 15 From the top of Pitch 1 traverse and ascend diagonally left on the face until the extreme left hand edge is reached (delicate). Then ascend easy rock to top. @
First ascent:     R.Davies.
Pitch 1: Dec 1939     H Wong, H Barker and M Burton
Pitch 2&3: Oct 1946 R Charlton, E Pearlstein and Miss E Chadwick
First Ascent: Jul 1982 N Cleaver, A Wood and P Leicesz.
HYPERADRENIA     20 (G2) R **** [N]
1.     12 (E3) 22m Climb first pitch of Donkerhoek Face to the undercut belay ledge.
2.     20 (G2) 22m Immediately above the belay ledge, climb the very thin crack on small holds up the steep slab to the bulge. Move left and make a hard move over the bulge. Easier ground then follows.
Protection on this route is very good.
First Ascent: 1982 N Cleaver, A Wood & P Leicesz
HYPERADRENIA DIRECT     22 (G3) R ** [N]
1.     22 (G3) 15m Start about 5m to the left of HYPERADRENIA, under a very steep, shallow open book. Climb directly up the open book to the stance shared with DONKERHOEK FACE.
2.     As for HYPERADRENIA.
First Ascent: Date and opening party unknown.
FLY ON THE WALL     25 (H2) R [N]
Climbs the arete to the right of the Moke and continues up the face between the final section of the Moke and Hyperadrenia.
First Ascent: I Guest and company
MALADY     17 (F3) R ** [N]
Starts on the west facing rock facing upstream of the buttress where The Moke and Right Corner Overhang, etc., are situated. The start is beaconed and is about 5m left of the first red open book (topped by a medium-sized tree).
1.     40m F3 17 Start in the deep chimney-like crack in which a large tree is growing (beacon). Continue up easy grey rock to where rock changes colour to yellow-red and steepens. Above are some small overhangs with a break to the right. Climb the break on good holds to a large ledge. Either stop here or climb to the top of the crag up the easy chimney-crack (E).
First Ascent: May 1983 C Edelstein and A Lambert.

Graham Terrell on The Moke 17, Upper tonquani, Magaliesberg. Photo by: Gehora

Graham Terrell on The Moke 17, Upper tonquani, Magaliesberg. Photo by: Gehora

THE MOKE     17 (F3) R **** [N]
Start at the base of a ridge between Right Corner and Donkerhoek Face. Ascend the long slab next to the ridge up to where the slab steepens. Step right and make an awkward move over a bulge to gain the slab above. Move up left to the base of a steep open book and after a difficult initial move continue up the crack to a small overhang. Pass to the right of this and move up left to finish or climb thin crack system on face above.
The left finish is in fact the old variation of Donkerhoek Face (R Davies, E Villa) which moves diagonally left from the top of pitch 2 of that climb. The remaining 25 to 28m in the centre (A D Barley, R P Barley 8.3.69) provides fine exposed climbing.
First Ascent: May 1970 Various opening parties.

THE GREAT DOG DETECTIVE     24 (H1) R *** [N]
A line below “The Moke”.
1.     15m 24 H2 Start below the right bolt. Move up to the bolt and then traverse to the second bolt. Follow the seam to the rail and step left to follow a second seam until it joins “The Moke”.
First Ascent: Mar 1988 R Nattrass.
KEEN YOUNG GRADUATES     23 (H1) R * [N]
A variation of “The Great Dog Detective”.
1.     5m 23 H1 From the first bolt continue straight up to the rail without traversing. Exit right at the rail.
First Ascent: Jun 1988 R Nattrass.
RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG     15 (F2) R **** [N]
Situated on the prominent buttress on the upstream side of Short Gully. On the face of this buttress overlooking the stream, is a series of dark red overhangs which starts about halfway up. The climb starts at the right hand edge of a projecting grey face.
1.     15m F1 13 Up the grey face, making use of a shallow crack at times to the start of the red overhangs. There is a small stance with an eye belay here.
2.     25m F2 15 Ascend diagonally to the right on a rather smooth sloping slab close up against an overhang. On rounding the overhang continue up steep face with very welcome large grips. Bear left into corner and when the corner becomes overhanging traverse left across a smooth grey face using a well defined finger-rail on to easy rock. This point is 18m directly above start of pitch. Continue to top.
First Ascent: Jul 1949 D Gillham, L Schaff, M de Villiers and BRussell.
KALAHARI     16 (F3) R ** [N]
Start from a boulder in the stream between Right Corner Overhang and Right Corner Crag.
1.     17m F2 15 Step across into a shallow slanting groove with a corner crack (the right hand one). Follow this to its end (8m) and swing right and up right to the overhang. Pass to the right of this and then move left to flat ridge and up the ridge using flake to a small stance and peg belay below the overhang. (This stance is on the traverse of Right Corner Crag.)
2.     20m F3 16 Ascend the steep crack at the right end of the overhang and continue by strenuous climbing up past a detached block (seems safe) to the next overhang (piton). Swing left on to the nose then up right on small holds to top.
First Ascent: Mar 1969 Pitch 1by AD Barley and Miss M van Steenderen Mar 1963 Pitch 2 by M Makowski and S Cramphorn.
PAM POM     19 (G1) R *** [N]
The route begins in the recess just to the left of Kalahari, “steals” about 6m of Right Corner Overhang and then branches off right from Right Corner Overhang to take the steep lay-back/jam crack instead of continuing up to the smooth face of Right Corner Overhang.
1.     20m F3 18 Climb the recess up to the overhang. Step right onto the arete, up 3m to a handrail and then left to a point just above the overhang. Up to the ledge and stance at the chockstone eye-hole common with Right Corner Crag (old peg).
2.     30m G1 19 Continue up as for Right Corner Overhang to the Y-junction made by Right Corner Overhang (left arm of Y) and the lay-away/jam crack. Strenuous climbing but good nuts brings you to the overhang topping the crack and a difficult move round the corner brings you into a steep but easy crack. Continue to the top and a stance common with The Moke.
First Ascent: May 1983 P Brunswick and C Edelstein
RIGHT CORNER CRAG     14 (F2) R **** [N]
This route is on the same buttress immediately downstream of Right Corner Overhang. It commences at the foot of a recess which slopes up from right to left.
1.     23m F2 14 Ascend the recess to a point immediately beneath large overhang. Traverse 6m right beneath the overhang to eye hole stance at the top of pitch 1 of Right Corner Overhang. The difficulty arises in making the final move onto the stance.
2.     11m F1 13 Ascend the steep shallow crack slightly to left of eye-hole until forced to left by overhang onto an exposed grey slab. Ascend the grey slab near its left (outer) edge to easy rock.
3.     15m C 5 Continue directly up to grassy ledge with large stamvrug tree.
First Ascent: Circa 1948 T Bright and E Scholes.
AMBIDEXTER     14 (F2) R ** [N]
Start 4,5m left of Right Corner Crag next to a niche.
1.     25m F1 13 Ascend the wall on good holds to a ledge below a huge flake which reaches up to the overhang. Ascend the flake crack at the right hand side to the overhang, then traverse to the left hand top of the flake.
2.     10m F2 14 Pull over the bulge on good holds. Continue up the rib to a ledge and tree belay.
First Ascent: 1955 RW Charlton and D Liddle.
TONQUANI TRIFLE     17,A2 (F3) R [N]
This route is a girdle of the upper part of Tonquani, on good and clean rock, starting with the first pitch of Right Corner Crag.
1.     25m F1 13 Climb up to the eye-hole stance of Right Corner Crag.
2.     30m F3 A2 17 Climb the second pitch of Right Corner Overhang to fix a good sling point as high as possible for a pendulum to the right. Climb down to start of the steep section, then pendulum to the right with difficulty, until a tape sling can be fitted to a small flake. Aid to the right (two pitons in place) descending into a recess. Climb the recess free 2m, then descending slightly at first, make a delicate traverse to the right to reach a crack. Make a pull-up to a stance on the right. This stance is below the step over of Donkerhoek Face.
3.     45m F1 13 Follow Donkerhoek Face route past the stepover, continue diagonally right into Donkerhoek Recess which is climbed 10m, to the end of the little traverse of Donkerhoek Corner. Reverse the traverse and descend 3m to a stance on a tree.
4.     40m E2 10 Traverse around the corner to the right 30m until a higher ledge can be gained. Continue right to a good tree.
5.     30m F1 13 Traverse right 3m and climb the steep crack in the red face until it is possible to move over to the right on a handrail. This is the steep face mentioned in pitch 3 of Reunion Slab. Continue right passing below the crux of Reunion to a good stance.
6.     30m F2 15 Climb down 2m and move awkwardly around a ridge to the right into a V-shaped chimney. Climb up 2m to exit out to the right.
Note : Good rope technique is required on pitch 2.
First Ascent: Feb 1976 H Boshoff and E Haber.
POOPHALS PEDANK     19 (G1) R [N]
About one third of the way down short gully there is a projecting nose of rock with a poorly defined corner on the upstream side.
1.     10m 19 (G1) Pull through the overhang on good holds and climb to the top of the crag.
First Ascent: Feb 1990 M Seegers, D Margetts
MIKE’S KITCHEN     18 (G1) R ** [N]
The route is situated approximately halfway down Short Gully and starts 2m right of Mike’s Despair. Commence at the foot of the grey slab below the narrow crack system and climb straight up. The route crosses Mike’s Despair at its’ first stance.
1.     35m F3/G1 18 Climb the grey slab using the crack system for small protection. Mantle onto whoever is occupying the first stance of Mike’s Despair and break through the roof behind. Continue up to gain the open book behind. Follow the right-leaning 3.5 Friend crack to the top.
Note : The slab is excellent thin face climbing.
First Ascent: Sep 1986 TP Willmot and PS Greenfield.
MIKE’S DESPAIR     13 (F1) R [N]
The route is situated right of Concertina, halfway up Short Gully, on the true right hand side, about 10m downstream from a prominent overhang-cave. The climb starts at the foot of a large grey downstream facing slab, in front of which grows a twin-trunked tree.
1.     20m F1 13 Climb straight up the thin crack/recess for about 12m then move diagonally right and over broken rock to choice of stances.
2.     15m E2 10 Move up to and climb a slightly overhanging open book recess on excellent holds, to reach the top.
First Ascent: May 1976 M Brokenshire, A Cuthbertson and K M Smith.
CONCERTINA     11 (E3) R * [N]
Commences halfway down Short Gully on right hand side.
1.     21m E3 11 Straight up on corner for 9m then diagonally up towards right to foot of recess.
2.     12m E1 8 Climb in the corner between slightly overhanging walls.
First Ascent: 1948 T Louw and W Curle.
PIGSWET     16 (F2) R [N]
Starts on right hand side of boulder problem mentioned in Lobster Pot, the line follows the steep V groove on the buttress above.
1.     20m F2 16 Climb up easy ground, past ledge with loose blocks to V-groove. Follow groove to, top passing small roof half way up.
First Ascent: Apr 1986 S Middlemiss and A Margetts.
LOBSTER POT     17 (F3) R [N]
Starts on left hand side of popular boulder problem in gully i.e. approximately 20m up from Manhattan.
1.     30m F3 17 Pull up onto ledge and climb up onto second small ledge (4m). Stretch across smooth wall on right and pull up on small jugs into open book above (tree). Follow open book to steep but easy face which is followed to top.
First Ascent: Apr 1986 P Lazarus and S Middlemiss.
SPAWN OF EVIL     17 (F3) R [N]
Starts up open book 4m to right of Manhattan.
1.     30m F3 17 Climb open book, moving left to crack when threatened by bulge. Move immediately back right and pull to right through roof. Follow easy arete above to top.
First Ascent: Apr 1986 S Middlemiss and P Lazarus.
MANHATTAN     13 (F1) R ** [N]
The climb is situated about 6m to the right of Left Corner Chimney.
1.     30m F1 13 Up crack on left of large jutting undercut nose. Continue up crack and ascend open book directly above for about 9m until it is possible to move out right and up.
First Ascent: May 1963 M Makowski and J Anderson.
LEFT CORNER CHIMNEY     9 (E1) R * [N]
Starts 25 to 30m up Short Gully from Left Corner.
1.     23m E1 9 Ease into narrowing vertical chimney on good handholds through overhanging tight section, then 4,5m higher and out of chimney to right and up to good belay on bush.
2.     18m D 8 On vertical rock 6m to horizontal crack then traverse left to top stance of Left Corner.
First Ascent: 1945 J Plekker, K Ruhle and E Ruhle.
LEFT CORNER     7 (D/E1) R * [N]
The ridge or buttress forming the downstream boundary of Short Gully.
1.     18m 7 (D/E1) Follow the corner ridge to the first belay point on a block. An alternative route to this point commences about 6m downstream from the corner.
2.     25m 7 (D/E1) Continue on the line of the ridge bearing slightly left into shallow recess then up a crack for about 4,5m to another block belay.
3.     15m 6 (C/D) Scramble to top.
First Ascent: circa 1938 P Houmoller
KITCHEN CRACK     7 (D) R * [N]
Commences in an obvious recess or crack at ground level at the traditional meet point.
Above this point a number of D routes present themselves.
First Ascent: 1937 G Potter and B Harris.
MAYDAY     20 (G2) R ** [N]
This is a pleasant unsustained route ideal for climbers new to this grade. Start 4m upstream and around the corner to BROKEN CORNER.
1.     15m 20 (G2) Climb up on good grips until an off-balance position on a ledge is reached. Above are two crack systems. Avoid the crack system in the corner to the right and climb the crack up the centre of the overhang to easier rock above. Continue up to a good ledge shared with SIMIAN STREET.
2.     20m 15 (F2) Traverse right for 2 to 3m and then ascend the face moving diagonally right until forced right into the corner shared with BROKEN CORNER (second pitch). Continue up this corner to a ledge. Instead of moving right as in BROKEN CORNER, move left into a recess. Climb up this corner to a good ledge and tree belay.
3.     45m 8 (E1) Climb up recess above stance to a point where you can move left onto an exposed ridge. Continue up nondescript rock to the top of the crag.
Variation:
1.     15m 15 (F2) Climb up to ledge as in the normal route. Step right into a corner which is followed to the same ledge as the end of the normal pitch one.
First Ascent: May 1987 N Margetts, D Margetts, G Lainis
BROKEN CORNER     18 (F3) R [N]
The route starts immediately right of the original first pitch of Red Corner, i.e. at the foot of the right-angled corner which defines the latter route.
1.     12m F3 18 Start in cave-like recess at the bottom of the corner. After successive pull-ups on fair grips diagonally up to the right a resting spot is reached on the steep face. Alternatively tall climbers can straddle up the corner i.e. Red Corner, and after 3m make a wide step across and swing on to the face. From the resting spot move diagonally right to a platform stance on the outer corner.
2.     20m F1 13 Traverse 4m right to recess. Climb recess to ledge and tree belay.
3.     25m D 7 Continue up the recess to top.
Variation :
By starting at the base of the second pitch crack, the first pitch and the traverse of the second pitch are avoided (F1).
First Ascent: Feb 1964 D Lubbe, J Kruger and Miss E Furst.
SIMIAN STREET     21 (G3) R *** [N]
1.     12m F3 18 As for Broken Corner.
2.     24m G3 21 Bridge up over the bulge on the left and climb directly to the crack. Follow this past a small overhang and continue to the large overhang above. Step left to steep groove which leads to a niche (peg runner). From crouching position in the niche traverse right until good holds lead up to grassy ledge. A sustained pitch.
3.     23m F1 13 Climb the wall above and make a move right which leads to easy ground.
Note : Originally climbed with 5 points of aid. The first ascensionists later reduced this to 3 points (through the main overhang). Finally Kevin Smith and party made a free ascent on 13.6.82.
First Ascent: Oct 1981 C Ward and J Holding.
TWO DOGS AND FREEDOM     22 (G3) R **** [N]
The climb is situated on the true right-hand side of the kloof and takes the line through the roofs between Red Corner and Simian Street, to provide outstanding, sustained climbing on good rock with mind boggling exposure. The climbing is bold but protection is excellent.
1.     18m G1 19 The pitch starts on the extreme right hand side (upstream side) of the large ledge from which the climbing on Red Corner also begins. Step right into the crack and move up to a small cubbyhole below a small roof. Make committing moves through this and onto the steep face above. Move up left to the large roof and make delicate moves left onto good jugs, then pull up onto a small ledge in a cubbyhole. (The stance is at the same point where one steps right before moving up to the roof on Red Corner.)
2.     25m 22 G3 From the stance move up onto the arete 4m left of Simian Street. Climb the arete to the roof, pull strenuously through and continue up the short crack in the corner above to another roof. Move right around this onto a small ledge. Climb the short crack up the face immediately above, scarily to the top to gain a massive big ledge.
First Ascent: Jun 1987 P Lazarus and S Middlemiss.
RED CORNER     17 (F3) R ***** [N]
The climb lies up a steep reddish coloured corner about 60m upstream of Tonquani Ridge. Immediately upstream of the right hand containing wall of the corner, the rock becomes broken and vegetated. From the corner downstream, as far as the climb Hawk’s Eye, there is a steep white face which is topped by a containing overhang. The route follows the recess until say 9m from this overhang and then goes right on to the broken vegetated rock referred to above, where the climbing ends.
1.     6m F1 12 Ascend in corner to a grassy ledge. A scrambling route to this ledge exists a short distance to the left.
2.     18m F3 17 Ascend 4,5m in left of corner, make delicate traverse 2m to right on to right side of corner. Continue up to an overhang and then traverse left out of the corner on to a narrow rock ledge. (Piton belay.)
3.     14m F3 17 Go back into corner. Climb up very steep red face in left of corner to a small stance with piton and chockstone belay.
4.     11m F3 17 Continue up corner. Climbing is less steep, but delicate. Traverse right from corner where it steepens to stance on broken easy rock.
Note : The route is exposed, stances small and belays not obvious. Time on first ascent (1937) 3 hours.
Variation :
2.     E3 11 Instead of pitch 2 above which is probably the most severe pitch of the climb, one can climb a face to the left and traverse right on to the narrow ledge with piton belay.
First Ascent: Nov 1937 R Barry and C Gebhardt.
CORNERSTONE     15 (E3) R [N]
The climb starts at the big tree at the step-down from KITCHEN CORNER to the Red Corner platform. It follows the obvious line up a shallow recess to a small chimney which cuts the red-brown overhang.
1.     15 (E3) 30m Move delicately up and left on small holds up a smooth face. Continue upward about 5m, then move right towards a small arete and gulley. Climb the arete (or gulley) to a small tree and continue to a ledge below the red-brown overhang.
2.     14 (E2) 40m Move 2m left to the base of the brown crack. Climb the crack past a small tree to a ledge. Continue up the broken face to a large ledge. Scramble 5m up open book to the top.
First Ascent: Feb 1999 Merv Prior, J Ball
PUMPING GIBBON     19 (G1) R *** [N]
Scramble up the short wall to a grassy ledge, left of RED CORNER. Start at the left of 2 short recesses.
1.     13 (F1) 20m Climb the left-hand recess until it is possible to move into the right hand recess. Follow this to a ledge and move right to where a higher traverse line can be reached (old piton in place). Traverse left and climb a bulge to a ledge.
2.     19 (G1) 18m Ascend the wall above and gain the bottomless corner crack. Climb this through a small overhang, above which elephant’s ears lead to a mantleshelf out on the left. Belay on this small stance.
3.     17 (F3) 20m Scramble over the belayer and climb up to the overhang, then traverse right below this. Finish up the last few meters of RED CORNER.
Variations:
Originally a 3m traverse right was made at the height of the mantleshelf on pitch 2, to the obvious ledge 20 (G2). From there, a 15 (F2) move was done to join the right-traverse below the large roof.
3.     20/A2 (G2/M2) 22m (The Monkey Puzzle pitch) From the small belay ledge make an awkward move up over the bulge. Move up and right passing just to the left of a big block. Climb straight up to reach the jam crack at the base of the roof. (Piton protection on wall due to loose rock) Traverse left under the roof until in a position to layback up its side. Move right and gain a position on the ledge (strenuous). Use 2 aid points to move to the lip of the overhang where a pull-up enables one to stand on the horn. Scrambling leads to a stance.
First Ascent: Oct 1981 J Holding, C Ward Variations: May 1982 N Cleaver, A Wood
PUMPING GIBBON DIRECT     21 (G3) R ** [N]
Between Hawk’s Eye and Red Corner is a steep wall capped by roofs. In the centre of the wall is a 6m high corner which starts fairly high up. There is a line 3m left of the corner which is Monkey Music. Pumping Gibbon gains this layback corner and climbs the roofs directly above. Scramble up about 15m to a suitable stance below corner.
1.     30m G2 20 Face climb diagonally right then back left to the base of the corner. Exit left at the top of the corner to stance awkwardly 1m left.
2.     20m G3 21 Climb straight up to a hanging white block. Traverse 2m left, surmount the block and pull through the final roof on the right. An aid peg provides good protection for the crux.
First Ascent: FFA G Mallory (had climbed it on aid previously).
MONKEY SEE, MONKEY DO     19 (G1) R **** [N]
Takes a fairly direct slanting line from just left of the PUMPING GIBBON start to top of RED CORNER.
1.     19 (G1) 45m Starting 1 to 2m left of PUMPING GIBBON, ascend the arete directly up to a stance (17 (F3) 15m). Here the climb crosses PUMPING GIBBON, continuing up just to the right of it for 5m before traversing 6m right below the smooth ramp. On the right hand edge of this slab (about 4m left of RED CORNER) climb up to reach a stance below a short open book (19 (G1) 15m). Ascend this towards the overhang before traversing right along PUMPING GIBBON (16 (F2) 15m).
Note : With competent rope work, this climb is easily accomplished in one rope length. However the indicated stances are quite spacious. The climb is similar to PUMPING GIBBON but much cleaner.
First Ascent: Mar 1985 Ian Slatem & Clive Curson
MONKEY MUSIC     20,A1 (G2) R ** [N]
The route climbs the line 3 metres left of Pumping Gibbon i.e. between Hawk’s Eye and Red Corner.
Scramble up towards Hawk’s Eyes’ start and stance at two square blocks.
1.     25m G2 20 Climb up 2m before traversing 2m right. Mantleshelf then continue up towards the Pumping Gibbon open book. From the resting place here move 2m left and climb the crack to a semi-hanging stance 7m below the large roof.
2.     20m G2 A1 20 Climb up to the roof and traverse delicately left to where a nut can be used to aid further across the smooth face. Continue up to the top.
First Ascent: Mar 1984 G Mallory and S Mallory.
MORE HUSTLE THAN MUSCLE     22 (G3) R ** [N]
Follows the left hand dihedral/crack system which cuts the crag immediately left of Monkey Music and Pumping Gibbon. Scramble up bushy grey rock to a small ledge at the base of the narrow lower dihedral.
1.     30m G3 22 Climb the dihedral and continue up to a rest below the final left-leaning open book. Traverse left and climb up to a good hold, then climb diagonally right towards the top of the open book, where an overhang is turned and easier rock is followed to the summit.
Note : The protection on this pitch is sparse and unreliable.
First Ascent: Nov 1984 KM Smith and G Mallory.
HAWK’S EYE     13 (F1) R **** [N,P]
This route ascends the face to the right of Tonquani Ridge in an almost direct line keeping some 9m to the right of the latter climb. Start about 9m above the pool at the bottom of which is the start of Tonquani Ridge.
Ascend the somewhat vegetated face direct for 30m. The next pitch is climbed by a 9m traverse to the right, an ascent of 15m and a return traverse to the left leading to a tree below a large red overhang. Alternatively, ascend a pleasant grey face directly to the tree. From here traverse 4m left to belay. Traverse 5m left around corner and ascend 22m. Traverse right and cross the nose in an exposed position to a large stance below an overhang, near a falcon’s nest (F113).
From here the route traverses right, over the nest and through an “eye” in the rock on the right whence an easy ledge is reached which can be followed to the right to reach a final easy section. Alternatively, pass outside of the eye.
Variations :
1&2     C 5 Pitches 1 and 2 may be avoided by climbing up the sloping ramp which starts a few metres left of Red Corner.
3.     F2 15 From the eye stance traverse 9m left over smooth reddish slab and then ascend to the top.
3.     F1 13 A further alternative after passing through the eye is to climb the recess above, then hand-traverse left and climb up to top.
First Ascent: Jan 1937 R Barry and J Langmore.
TALONS     22 (G3) R *** [N]
Directly below Hawk’s Eye, the line can be plainly seen. Climb Hawk’s Eye as far as the belay below the F1 pitch.
1.     12m G3 22 Climb up right to a tree then hand-traverse left to lip of the roof. Quickly pull through the roof until one can stand in a relatively comfortable position on the wall between the two overhangs. Traverse right and pull into a recess, above which a small but good hanging belay can be made.
2.     25m G2 19 Step out right and up into the corner. Climb this and finish as for Hawk’s Eye direct.
First Ascent: Jul 1982 A Wood and C Ward. (3 points of aid) FFA Aug 1982 A Wood and N Cleaver.
TONQUANI CRACK     15 (F2) R ** [N]
This route follows the crack on the upstream side of Tonquani Ridge for the full height of the face. The climbing is D to E3 11 standard in general except for the crux pitch which starts at the Burton Memorial Plaque. This pitch entails negotiation of an overhang in the crack (F2 15). The final pitch ends with a short chimney.
First Ascent: Apr 1938 C Nicholls, J Langmore and C Gebhardt.
RIB TICKLER     17 (F3) R ** [N]
The rib immediately left of Tonquani Crack is ascended directly with a finish independent of Tonquani Ridge, though the finish to the latter is more in line. Starts at the base of Tonquani Crack.
1.     15m F3 17 Ascend the rib immediately left of the crack with an awkward move at 4,5m. Continue up the overhanging crack in the left corner to a small stance and tree belay.
2.     25m F2 15 Traverse left onto the face and move up to the crack in the centre. Follow the crack with an awkward move over a bulge, to a ledge. Move left and up into a shallow chimney capped by a block. Surmount the blocks with difficulty and continue up the crack line to stance and chockstone or peg belay.
3.     25m F2 15 Ascend the overhanging rib above using good holds (strenuous and spectacular) to a large ledge at the base of Tonquani Ridge final pitch. This would be a true finish but the following is independent: Traverse right and ascend to huge chockstone. Surmount this and move right across a chimney to a tree belay near the top.
Variation :
The first pitch of Rib Tickler as written up ascends the rib between Superramp and Tonquani Crack (about 4m apart) and is devoid of protection. This pitch is well protected, and a more direct line. Start 7m left of Rib Tickler (i.e. 4m left of Superramp).
1.     20m F3 17 Climb broader crack/incut holds through bulge and onto face above. Follow face above to join second pitch of Rib Tickler as it traverses left onto the face.
First Ascent: Feb 1968 AC Carmen and Miss E van Dyke. Apr 1986 S Middlemiss and A Margetts. (Variation)
TONQUANI RIDGE     13 (F1) R *** [N]
Commences on top of a waterfall about 3m high close to the rock face above a pool about 9m upstream from the start of Feng’s Folly.
1.     18m E1 9 Traverse left from top of waterfall for 9m, then climb 6m up crack to tree.
2.     25m F1 13 Step across an awkward gap immediately above the stance and traverse right across an exposed grey face as far as possible. Ascend 9m on thin holds to a tree growing in the crack on the right hand side of the ridge.
3.     12m E2 10 Climb the face to the left of the crack to a wide stance under a large overhanging recess (Burton Memorial here).
4.     22m E3 11 Step off from the tree on left immediately below the corner and ascend on face 6m then bear left to the outer edge and ascend a further 3m before traversing in to right, finishing up a short crack through an overhang to a narrow ledge of blocks.
5.     25m F1 13 Move from stance up to left to exposed crest of ridge. Ascend this ridge and pass through crack in overhang at top to complete the climb.
Variation :
E2 10 From the top of the first pitch of Feng’s Folly, scramble up grass ledge to the right leading to a stance on a large block below a 6m face (C 15m). From here traverse on rock to the right (D 12m) finishing up at the tree in the crack at the top of the second pitch of the original direct route.
First Ascent: Sep 1937 J Langmore, G von Grunewald and D Abercrombie
SUPERRAMP     21 (G2) R *** [N]
The climb follows the old aid route Crib, but the last section may be climbed independent of the adjacent climbs.
1.     40m G2 21 Start 7-8m downstream from Tonquani Crack. Climb the thin crack slanting left up over a small bulge, through a grey face to a large ledge.
2.     40m G1 19 Ascend the steep wall, keeping 2 to 6m right of the Highway crack, and left of the overhang at the top.
Note : The first twenty metres of this climb rates 5 stars with ultra-thin climbing and great spectator participation possibilities ! One may easily downclimb via Tonquani Crack.
First Ascent: Mar 1975 J Linke and C Ward at F2 A1. FFA Apr 1985 J Wright and C Curson.
HIGHWAY     15 (F2) R ** [N]
This climb starts from the top of the first pitch of Feng’s Folly. It follows the line of the recess to the left of Tonquani Ridge starting 20 to 30m to the left thereof.
1.     20m F2 15 Follow the crack for 4,5m to a small ledge under an overhang. Traverse slightly to the left and climb a thin yellow face, passing a small tree on the left. Follow crack to a small stance.
2.     20m E3 11 Continue up crack to finish. Alternatively a pleasant 15 F2 variation can be made by diverging to the right from a cubby hole on to a steep face on the downstream side of the ridge.
First Ascent: 1949 F Villa and D Mitchell.
FENG’S FOLLY     11 (E3) R ** [N]
Commences in a prominent recess starting from stream level about 9m downstream of the start of Tonquani Ridge. The recess is topped by a sloping ledge with a large tree on the edge of the recess.
1.     15m E3 11 Cross the stream to rock ledge then scramble up 4,5m to commencement of crack in recess. Follow route up recess slightly to right at top of grass ledge and large tree.
2.     25m D 6 Bear left up crack making for obvious recess up which the climb continues.
3.     15m E3 11 The final pitch goes up the chimney (watch out for loose rock) which leads to the summit.
Variation:
3.     F1 13 Ascend a few metres in the final chimney and then traverse right across a face for 18m. This traverse leads to an undercut buttress which is ascended until easier rock is reached at the top.
First Ascent: 1933 M Fenger and H Barker. 1954 H Barker (Variation)
TRIANGLE CRACK     16 (F3) R * [N]
The climb commences halfway along the face between the start of Tonquani Ridge and Coffin, to the right of a shallow recess with a triangular cubby hole 6m up. The route makes for the right hand end of the large overhang to the right of Coffin. It passes to the right of this overhang and ascends the face standing out from the kloof wall at 90 degrees.
1.     22m F2 15 Commence below and to the right of the triangular cubby hole and work into it, bypassing it on the left, then traversing to the right above it, and ascending 12m to a grassy stance and small tree.
2.     9m E2 10 Climb a small buttress immediately above.
3.     22m D 6 Walk 6m to right and climb a long grey ridge to a ledge and tree.
4.     24m F3 16 From the tree climb a crack in the centre of the prominent exposed face on the left of Feng’s Folly chimney. The crux move is the final one of the climb, requiring a long armpull into a rather dirty cubby hole.
First Ascent: 1942 J Botha.
NAVIGATOR TO HEAVEN     24 (H1) R **** [N]
This ‘adventure style’ route takes a line through the roofs right of ‘Zap’ and ‘Last Rites’.
1.     40m 19 G1 Start on a large boulder about 10m right of ‘Last Rites’ and follow the easy break to the right hand side of the green face above. Climb the face going diagonally left to a rotten pillar/block. (Gear is min).
2.     25m 24 A1 H1 Move right into the book above and past a roof (bolt is a bitch to clip). Step onto ramp above roof, (yellow dot on the nose of the roof), and follow the pegs to a second bolt (near the off-width crack in the next roof). An aid move is required here. Finish slightly left above a peg in a small ledge.
3.     30m 21 G3 Go hard right on the white (bat) ledge. (It makes good sense to empty your rack into the crack at this juncture.) Move up on a small hold and traverse to the arete keeping low. Climb the arete to the roofs above and wind through to the top.
First Ascent: 1989 S Isebeck, D Neethling, C Leslie-Smith and C Lomax
IN GODS COUNTRY     24 (H1) R [N]
1.     24 (H1) 45m Start as for NAVIGATOR TO HEAVAN and then move left and up into a small recess. Break left and move up to a narrow ledge. Climb centre of wall above and head through more roofs to finish up the notch at the highest point on the crag.
First Ascent: 1991 Mike Cartwright
ZAP     22,A3 (G3) R [N]
Aids through the roofs on the wall to the right of THE COFFIN.
First Ascent: 1982 T. Holt & D. Hartley
PARADISE LOST     20 (G2) R [N]
Starts halfway between Coffin and the very large boulder about 30m upstream.
1.     32m F3 17 Climb the face a few metres right of the obvious-looking corner for 10m and continue right up a series of minor ramps to the ledge. Traverse right along ledge for 7m. Belay below an undercut corner which leads to a ledge 5m above.
2.     25m G2 20 Gain the ledge 5m above via some strenuous moves (G2 20) or use a shoulder. Traverse 5m left to a smooth corner and climb this to the overhang. Climb up right using undercut layback grips to the overhang, then traverse right to easier ground. Continue to belay on shattered blocks.
3.     25m G1 19 Traverse left around the corner and continue on a long horizontal traverse with a few precarious moves to gain the footrail traverse of Last Rites and the traverse line of Coffin.
Alternative:
3.     20m E3 11 Traverse horizontally right across the smooth slab and continue up to the start of the final pitches of Tonquani Triangle and Feng’s Folly.
Note : The climb is not complete in itself as it uses the finish of other climbs, but it is included on its merits, as was the case with Last Rites.
First Ascent: May 1982 Pitches 1&2 J Levy, P Fatti and D Peters. Pitch 3 D Peters and M Arsenjevic
LAST RITES     19 (G1) R ***** [N,P]
1.     20m F3 17 Ascend first pitch of Coffin to just after the fall-across move, then continue up the chimney past the cave mouth to a large chockstone. Surmount this to a small stance and peg belay below the first large overhang.
2.     22m F3 18 Layback round the overhang to a resting place below the second overhang. Bridging out on both walls “walk” out to the lip to a small ledge on the right wall. This brings one to the bottom of the 6m descent on pitch 4 of Coffin. Continue to the normal stance where Coffin emerges from the cave.
3.     12m G1 19 Climb the narrowing chimney above and place a nut as high as possible. Descend slightly to a handrail just above an overhang and hand-traverse 4,5m left to the arete (strenuous). Ascend up right to a belay above the traverse line, where it is possible to protect the second man.
4.     22m E2 10 Ascend the crack above and up the wall to finish in an undercut corner on the left (partly Coffin).
Note : 2nd pitch very spectacular but well protected.
First Ascent: Mar 1969 AD Barley and RP Barley.
COFFIN     16 (F2/F3) R *** [N,P]
The climb has as its objective the ascent of the prominent undercut grey buttress lying to the left of FENG’S FOLLY. When view from up the kloof the grey buttress is seen as a detached mass, the wide crack separating it from the main crag being occupied by a large coffin-shaped slab of rock.
Start immediately below the chimney in the corner where the grey buttress abuts against the face.
1.     30m 16 (F2/F3) Climb the wall to the right of the chimney to a ledge. Fall across or straddle into chimney, then ascend this until entry can be made to the cave behind.
2.     28m 12 (E3/F1) Follow cave right through to its exit on far side of buttress overlooking the bathing pool and lunch spot. (bat manure) Chimney inside the cave over a series of slippery ledges towards a shaft of light coming from the right. A tight squeeze through a vertical slit leads to a stance in fresh air.
3.     25m 14 (F1/F2) Descend the crack between buttress and coffin for 6m and traverse left on good but very exposed ledge for 4,5m across the face of the buttress immediately above the undercut portion. This ledge peters out, but the same line may be continued on small holds for 3m when the ledge widens out again near the edge of the buttress. Climb a crack and face for 11m to a stance which gives a good belay for the traverse.
4.     30m 10 (E2/E3) Ascend lichen covered rocks on buttress until reddish overhangs are reached. Traverse right for about 6m, then continue to top.
Note: Second pitch – grading depends on condition of cave-like chimney. Light conditions can be very poor in the chimney.
First Ascent: Dec 1937 R Barry, J Jennings, C Bubole, C Gebhardt, F Collet, G Potter
ALCHEMY     22 (G3) R ***** [N,P]
The stepped crack line up the front (stream-side) of the Coffin Buttress. Scramble to ledges about 10m up.
1.     22 (G3) 25m Step right, climb up to and negotiate the short dihedral (piton). Traverse right, climb the down ward-flaring crack and continue to beneath the final overhangs. Break through on the right, and climb more easily to a stance.
Scramble to top.
Note : Alchemy follows the line of the old aid route Rock Spirit.
First Ascent: Apr 1985 K M Smith, P Schlotfeldt, G Mallory and MBrunke. Originally called Rock Spirit at 17 F3 A2 opened on 26.10.75 by J Linke and C Ward.
RESURRECTION     19 (G1) R ** [N]
From the top of the first pitch of SEPULCHRE continue up the steep crack referred to under that climb. This is the crack running up the face immediately right of the SEPULCHRE cleft. It leans to the left all the way. The crux consists of a move over a bulge into the crack near the start. Near the top of the crack traverse right onto a grey face where the difficulty reduces, and ascend to the top. Direct aid pegs were used on first ascent.
First Ascent: 1956 B Magg, W Wieder, S Perry
SEPULCHRE     19 (G1) R *** [N]
When viewed from the big bathing pool, the grey (Coffin) buttress is seen to be bounded on the left by a grassy and vegetation-filled chimney. To the right of this chimney, broken red rocks lead to a steep crack, about halfway up which grows a green tree. The upper parts of the crack appear to overhang.
To the left of the cave (on Coffin route) which lies directly above the slimy chimney is seen a steep slab which lies back at an easier angle just below the red break-away. To the left of the uppermost part of this slab is seen a ledge and above, the crag lies at an easier angle and is more broken.
The route follows the broken rocks at the bottom of the grey buttress to the base of the red crack (18m E29). This is followed (11m) to a good ledge behind the upper branches of the green tree. Above this point the crack is forbidding, so a rope may be fixed to a piton. An abseil of 9m leads to a point where one can traverse left into the crack below the cave (F113) and ascend the cave.
Climb the outside wall of the cave for 8m to where a belay can be made high up on the left. The crux pitch now lies ahead. Emerge from the cave and straddle upwards until it is possible to move left facing in onto the slab. This move may be made at either of two levels. It is possible to traverse with the feet at the level of the top of the sloping slab, using sparse holds on the steep face above for the hands. Alternatively, ascend right to the overhang and traverse mainly on the hands using grips under the roof until a descent can be made in a small recess about 2,5m to the left, to the sloping slab.
The crossing of the slab is delicate, but easier. A small stance can be made at the end of the slab climbing down slightly (piton), but it is safer to continue 12m upwards (F3 18) and make a stance on a good ledge directly above the start of the slab. The move onto the slab would be very difficult to reverse.
Time taken on original ascent was two hours.
Variation :
18 (F3) The grassy and vegetation-filled chimney may be ascended from the bottom of the face, obviating the original first pitch and abseil traverse.
First Ascent: Jan 1937 R Barry and C Gebhardt.
LOST TRAIL     16 (F2) R *** [N]
Situated immediately opposite the usual lunch venue approximately 10m to 12m downstream (left) from Sepulchre. Easily recognised by the large gable-shaped (inverted V) overhang, the ascent through which is the crux of the climb.
1.     22m F2 16 Start from a pile of blocks. Ascend, traverse left, continue ascent and finish diagonally up to right to stance beneath overhang. Eye hole belay. This pitch is steep, with small holds. (The protection is poor.)
2.     22m F2 16 Ascend as high as possible in the crack below the overhang before traversing out over it. This traverse may be done to the right (Barry) or left (Langmore) gaining a ledge after ascent of easier rock for 9m or 15m respectively.
3.     22m E2 10 Continue up the broken face over which a number of routes may be chosen.
Time taken on original ascent about 1,5 hours.
First Ascent: Jan 1938 R Barry and J Langmore.
MATINEE     15,A2 (F2,M2) R [N]
Above the Eel Pool (between CONSOLATION and LOST TRAIL) runs a parallel band of overhangs. Springing from a cave at 22m a thin crack slants through them. Start just upstream of the eel pool and scramble up 9m to a ledge below the cave.
1.     12m 13 (F1) Climb up easily until just below the cave where the rock steepens. Ascend a thin crack to a stance and belay in the cave.
2.     20m 15, A2 (F2,M2) Climb out across the chimney in the roof. Use pegs to surmount the lip, then continue up the crack with pegs to below the second roof. Move out left onto the nose and easily up to a good stance (peg belay – junction with CONSOLOATION) (on first ascent, a belay was taken in etriers below the second roof and a peg used to surmount it. However after removing vegetation, neither the etrier stance nor this peg should be required.)
3.     22m 15 (F2) The crack line continues, but step right and climb a slab to an overhang then swing left to the crack. Climb this passing a bulge on good holds, then move easily to a wide ledge. (This pitch is partly on CONSOLATION) Scramble to top.
First Ascent: Jan 1969 AD Barley, RP Barley
CONSOLATION     18 (F3/G1) R ** [N]
The climb is on the right hand side of the kloof directly above the very large boulder separating the Eel pool and the big deep pool immediately downstream. Scramble up into a small cave some 6mabove the boulder.
1.     12m 18 (F3/G1) Traverse left around a corner at the level of the bottom of the cave. Then move upwards (steep and delicate at first) to point at extreme end of main overhang which runs along the face from LOST TRAIL. One man stance.
2.     22m 15 (F2) Traverse left for 2m, ascend a few meters then traverse 9m right above the overhang where a long crack running up from right to left is reached. This crack affords the only passage through a barrier of smooth slabs. Ascend it for 15m until above the slab zone, where a small but good belay is reached.
3.     30m 7 (D/E1) Diagonally left for a few meters then traverse right to above the belay, from which point ascend easier rock to top.
First Ascent: 1952 D Bell, F Villa
BIG VOID     19 (G1) R * [N]
Start on the true right hand side of the kloof just downstream from Consolation. Start from the large boulder above the waterfall into the deep pool.
1.     20m G1 19 Climb up the shallow recess directly above the boulder for 3m then swing left around the corner using a good handhold to the start of a shallow line leading diagonally left. Traverse along this line (crux at 4m) to where it is possible to step down to a small stance.
2.     20m F2 15 Move back diagonally left to the highest point on pitch 1. From here climb directly up to about 3m below the line of overhangs. Traverse right for about 6m until almost at the first stance of Consolation and then ascend 2m to a small stance.
3.     15m F2 15 Traverse left above the overhangs to a small stance in a groove (stance 2 on Acapulco).
4.     35m F3 17 As for pitch 3 of Acapulco.
First Ascent: Nov 1978 AD Barley, LP Fatti and B Gross.
ACAPULCO     18 (G1) R * [N]
The route starts immediately downstream of the “Big Deep Pool” and follows the steep wall immediately above it. The initial objective is a cave containing bushes, about 12m above the pool.
1.     20m G1 18 From the lower end of the pool, climb a gangway leading up left. Where this ends at a narrow ledge, climb the very steep wall above, moving slightly right, climb a short groove and move right into the cave.
2.     15m G1 18 Climb the crack at the back of the cave to a good thread in the roof. Using a peg (in place) in the right wall, make a long difficult swing to gain a small ledge on the arete. Follow a short groove up right, and step right to a small stance (immediately above the pool).
3.     37m F3 17 Climb straight up the steep wall above for 9m to a ledge where the angle of the wall eases. Traverse right and continue diagonally up right on good holds, until it is possible to climb up left to a large ledge. Scramble to the top.
Variation :
2.     15m G1 19 Climb up the steep face in the right hand side of the cave moving right around the arete 3m up, to continue up the groove above.
First Ascent: Oct 1968 AD Barley and RP Barley.
MAIDEN OVER     15 (F2) R [N]
Located about 75m downstream of ACAPULCO, in an open book with a crack facing upstream.
Climb the crack and veer off to the right when about 9m below the top. Generally 10 E2/E3 with about 6m of 15 F2.
First Ascent: 1957 M Prior, P Bloomfield, Miss J Hodges
CRACK-ATTACK     20 (G2) R *** [N]
A striking hand-crack situated on the south face of the eastern member of the Tweedledum & Tweedledee pair near the Eastern campsite above Tonquani.
1.     10m G2 20 Climb the crack.
First Ascent: Feb 1983 K M Smith and party.
ARCTIC CIRCLE     13 (F1) L [N]
Climb 30m left of GLUVINE up a short undercut wall. Continue up the corner edge of the wall topped by overhangs to a ledge with bushes. Belay some 5m from the top of the crag. Instead of taking the easy way off, traverse left at the same level for 20m, passing round a hawk’s eye type of rock formation (13 F1).
First Ascent: Jul 1976 J Gregory, C Ward
GLUVINE     17 (F3) L ** [N]
Situated at the first high buttress on the left hand side of the approach to the kloof from the nek at Visser’s Farm. Approx 35m high. The climb is up an obvious overhanging crack, situated right of a corner edge and a recess with small overhangs at the top.
Climb a shallow open book which faces right moving slightly left to a ledge with a gnarled tree.
Climb the crack above through a series of small overhangs and up to a medium sized tree. Continue up a wall 3m left to the top.
First Ascent: Jul 1976 J Gregory and C Ward.
COCKSURE CECIL CLIMBS CAUTIOUSLY     16 (F2/F3) L ** [N]
The route takes the first obvious line (faint groove to start followed by large roof, followed by open book at top of buttress) immediately downstream of the descent gully bounding the first big buttress on the left side of the approach from the south. The route starts approximately 20m upstream of FEELING GROOVY (cairn).
1.     25m 16 (F2/F3) Take off awkwardly and climb to the ledge (approximately 3m) above which is a large roof. Move slightly to the right and break through roof at the first opportunity. Move up to the short wall at the bottom of the obvious open book above. Wall has crack up centre leading to book. Climb this to establish a position at base of the book. Move up the book to a large ledge at the top of the buttress.
Notes: 1. Protection is good
2. An excellent short route on generally good rock.
First Ascent: May 1994 TP Wilmot, MT Wilmot, U Kiefer
TREESY DOES IT     17 (F3) L * [N]
The route takes the first line approximately 5m upstream of FEELING GROOVY (cairn) on the first high buttress on the left side of the approach from the south. The route takes the steepish wall below the tree and attendant routes, thrutches through the tree, rises diagonally to the left to reach the comfortable stance above.
1.     17 (F3) Take off awkwardly and move up to the tree. Fight through this and rise diagonally to the left to the base of the book above. Reach the base with difficulty by using the short handrail and lay away holds above. Stem across and move up to a comfortable ledge at base of short open book above,
2.     10m 11 (E3) Traverse to the right around corner to base of right slanting open book (under curtain of creepers). Move up open book to top of buttress.
Note : Tricky on crux, reasonably protected.
First Ascent: May 1994 U Kieker, MT Wilmot, TP Wilmot
FEELING GROOVY     18 (F3/G1) L *** [N]
The route takes the initially root choked, overhanging open book some 5m upstream of Genesis on the first buttress on the left walking in from the south – Boggling climbing.
1.     25m 18 F3/G1 Grovel past the tree roots to some really good climbing. Move up to the crux at thin vertical rock knife blade (past rusty old peg). Ascend crack, with thin protection, to about 2m below top at which point move delicately left onto arete and ascend chicken heads to comfortable belay stance above.
Note : Excellent climbing on steep clean rock.
First Ascent: May 1990 F Greig and TP Willmot.
GENESIS     23 (H1) L **** [N]
The route is situated to the left of Gluvine on the first rock faces encountered on the left when walking into Tonquani from the south. It follows an obvious smooth face, split by two rails and topped by huge stepped overhangs. Start on some stacked blocks at the left side of smooth face. (Above is a root growing out of the face.)
Although short (30m), an excellent route on good rock.
1.     22m F2 16 Climb the left side of the face, tending right to avoid the overhang and continue up on good holds to the highest overhang which is split by a jam crack. Stance in chimney crack (good nuts) underneath the overhang.
2.     8m H1 23 Engage mind in reverse and jam through the overhang. Extremely strenuous, especially the last move to reach the lip. Pull through on good holds and up easy rock to the top.
Note : Seconds do not get a second chance so know how to prussik. Protection in the roof is excellent. Jams are very difficult (tape your hands, opening party did not). Being tall may be an advantage but opening leader managed though only 1,63m tall.
First Ascent: May 1983 A Lambert and C Edelstein.
CHOCOLATE FACTORY
See the Chocolate Factory subsection.
GULLIVER’S TRAVELS     15 (F2) L ** [N]
100m downstream from Gluvine is a defined deep crack and chimney topped by a long overhang extending to the left.
1.     12m F1 13 Climb the crack to a stance under the overhang.
2.     20m F2 15 Traverse left for 4m – climb up into chimney formed by hanging rock, through the chimney and step left onto a face. Make a descending traverse left to a ledge and belay below an open book.
3.     10m F2 15 Climb the open book to the top.
Note : Read first paragraph of Gluvine to locate start.
First Ascent: Nov 1976 J Gregory and C Ward.
DEFAMATION     13 (F1) L [N]
This climb lies immediately to the left of Photographers Route. It is improved by including the first pitch of Scandal.
From the top of the grey buttress climb a corner of ridge to the left of Photographers Route for 6m. Then traverse 2m and climb a crack for 6m (E3 11). The second pitch can be varied as desired.
First Ascent: Aug 1955 O Shipley, I Cohen and R W Charlton.
PHOTOGRAPHERS ROUTE     6 (D) L * [N]
Opposite Feng’s Folly where the left hand side of the kloof curves up into Red Gully is a 25m high grey buttress surmounted by bush. The top of the buttress, which is approximately at the base of the main face, may be reached by walking up the bushy slope on either side. Directly above the buttress, in the main face, is an obvious, wide, broken recess which slopes up slightly to the right. Traverse left 3m and climb to the top. This recess provides a route which is clear-cut and clean, characteristics which are usually lacking in climbs of this standard in the Magaliesberg.
The average standard is C. Total length 45m.
First Ascent: 1957 R Davies and J Clayton.
NIGEL’S NEW ROPE     13 (F1) L [N]
On left hand side of kloof there is a vertical face which is split by a crack, immediately to the right of Photographers Route. The crack begins 3m above the start level and is marked by a tree.
1.     30m F1 13 Start 3m to the right of the base of the tree in a small gully. A long straddle is necessary to achieve the base of the crack. Climb crack until it widens and it is possible to move out onto a 0,5m wide ledge on the face. (This is about 7m up the crack and past a small overhang on the face.) Climb the face on good holds to top.
First Ascent: May 1982 S Middlemiss and N Christian.
SHORT AND SWEET     18 (G1) L [N]
This climb ascends directly up a coffin shaped buttress approximately 25m left of “Scandal”, immediately opposite the campsite. The buttress starts about half way up the crag and is undercut by a reddish overhang which has small wild figs growing in it. There is a further orange overhang higher up on the left hand side of the buttress. The start is opposite a grey block at a point where a tree meets a steep grey face which is undercut at ground level i.e. Approximately 2m left of an easy C/D recess.
1.     30m 18 G1 Start at the point where the tree meets the undercut face. From this point ascend diagonally right to a crack which starts about halfway up the face and has a small tree growing in it’s base (crux). Follow this crack to the red overhang at the bottom of the coffin shaped buttress. Climb directly up the face of the buttress breaking through both overhangs on excellent “TM” style grips, at F2.
The average grade is F2 apart from the first 5m.
First Ascent: Oct 1987 G Myburgh and R Georgeson-Gunn.
CONCAVITY     15 (F2) L [N]
The start is marked by a large 3m high detached block at the base of the face, and a 15m high wrinkled apparently unclimbable slab.
1.     18m 15 (F2) Ascend a shallow recess on the left of the slab. The first 3m or so are 15 F2. Alternatively on can start 2.5 m to the left, and after ascending a short way traverse right (13 F1) into the recess above the difficulty. The pitch ends at a ledge.
2.     18m 10 (E2/E3) Walk along the ledge to the right to a red buttress. Ascend this buttress keeping to the left of a bush of creepers, and working around to the right higher up where the rock steepens. This route crosses SCANDAL on the ledge)
First Ascent: 1966 J Anderson
KON-TIKI RIDGE     7 (D) L [N]
Position: The ridge forms the right hand edge of the descent gully between Scandal and Deluge.
The route goes straight up the ridge. It was done as a single pitch of 43m of D standard but can be broken.
First Ascent: Oct 1971 M Prior and R Hoare.
WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, DYNO     16 (F2/F3) L *** [N]
Climbs the obvious, broken looking open book some 15m upstream of GRANDMA NOSE BEST.
Just upstream of a wild fig growing under a large wide roof about 10m up – cairn.
1.     26m 16 (F2/F3) Amble up to the base of the steep broken looking open book. Get established in the base of the open book with difficulty. Stem up to easier ground above to reach a comfortable stance on top.
Notes: 1. Protection is adequate
2. An excellent, short route
3. Descend via the steep gully some 30m upstream of the route.
First Ascent: Jun 1995 TP Wilmot, U Kiefer
GRANDMA NOSE BEST     15 (F2) L ** [N]
Climbs the first viable rock some 80m upstream of THE CHOCOLATE FACTORY.
Takes the feint open book with two blank sections on the left containing wall to start. Moves up onto the prominent nose on the arete. Surmounts this and moves up onto the slab above to finish.
1.     26m 15 (F2) Climb the feint open book past the first blank section on the left containing wall until forced left by the next blank section. Move up easier ground until it is possible to traverse right to reach the prominent nose. Pull up over this to reach the base of the slab above. Gain the slab, with difficulty, and move up this diagonally leftwards to reach a comfortable stance on top.
Notes: 1. Protection is adequate
2. Whilst the technical grade is 15 F2, a fair amount of commitment / balls is / are required to surmount the crux.
3. Descend via the stairway just downstream of THE CHOCOLATE FACTORY.
First Ascent: Jun 1995 U Kiefer , TP Wilmot,
WALK ON THE WILD SIDE     18 (G1) L ** [N]
Takes the second obvious crack system / open book upstream of the descent gully mentioned in WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, DYNO – cairn.
1.     20m 8 (E1) Climb the easy crack / book up to the large ledge below the striking roof with a crack along its full width.
2.     10m 18 (F3/G1) Climb the awkward bulge just upstream of the striking roof. This is difficult, exposed and poorly protected. Pull up the easier rock above to the comfortable stance on top.
Notes: 1. Protection on the crux is marginal.
2. All in all, bold climbing
3. Descend via the steep gully immediately downstream.
First Ascent: Jun 1995 U Kiefer, TP Wilmot
CHIMNEY CRICKET     14 (F1/F2) L ** [N]
Climbs the obvious chimney to start and then the left leaning knobbly looking open book above. Starts some 10m upstream of WALK ON THE WILD SIDE – cairn.
1.     26m 14 (F1/F2) Climb the body-wide chimney to reach the open book above. Climb this to reach the stance with large tree. Finish here and scramble off or continue up line to the top. Take a comfortable stance.
Notes: 1. Protection is adequate
2. Descend via the steep gully immediately downstream of WALK ON THE WILD SIDE.
3. Rock quality is excellent
First Ascent: Jun 1995 TP Wilmot, U Kiefer
TURKEY EXTRA ORDINARY     13 (F1) L ** [N]
Some 30m upstream of WALK ON THE WILD SIDE is a free standing large column with a smooth face at front. If one ambles around and up the back of the free- standing column one comes across a hidden chimney in the main kloof wall. The route takes this to top – cairn.
1.     25m 13 (F1) Approach the chimney from the gully. Climb the chimney to the first large ledge. Approach the second chimney and climb this exiting on the left. Take a comfortable belay stance in the custom built barber chair on the right of the exit.
Notes: 1. Protection is adequate
2. Descend via the steep gully immediately upstream of the top of the stance
3. Rock quality is excellent
First Ascent: Aug 1995 TP Wilmot, U Kiefer
AXE THE BLIGHTER     14 (F1/F2) L ** [N]
The route takes the kloof-high fault line immediately upstream (some 5m) of TURKEY EXTRA ORDINARY – cairn.
1.     26m 14 (F1/F2) Stem up the open book to start. Move up the easier fault line above to just before top of the kloof. Climb the knobbled face at the left to finish. Take a comfortable belay stance at the top.
Notes: 1. Protection is adequate
2. Descend via the steep gully mentioned in TURKEY EXTRA ORDINARY
3. Rock quality is excellent
First Ascent: Aug 1995 TP Wilmot, U Kiefer
SCANDAL     14 (F1/F2) L * [N]
1.     18m 14 (F1/F2) Climb the face of the grey buttress described under PHOTOGRAPHERS ROUTE.
2.     25m 13 (F1) Walk along the base of the face for 25m to base of a diagonal crack in vertical wall. The crack slopes up to the right. Ascend the crack to a cave.
3.     9m 8 (E1) Traverse 9m left from the cave to a ledge and stance.
4.     15m 8 (E1) Climb directly up to top up steepish face with good holds.
First Ascent: Aug 1955 O Shipley, I Cohen, RW Charlton
HIGH GULLY     5 (C) L [N]
An easy gully above Cactus Crag giving access to the top of the krantz and the shortest way out to upper Cedarberg Kloof.
THE SKINNY WHITE BEAR     23 (H1) L * [N]
Takes the overhanging crack in the large boulder opposite Rock Spirit/Alchemy.
1.     32m H1 23 Climb the very overhanging crack to a sloping ledge. Continue up two more short steep sections to where it is possible to traverse off right on a large sloping ledge.
First Ascent: Jun 1985 S Bradshaw.
ZAP     15 (F2) L [N]
Situated about 10m downstream from the descent gully behind Cactus Crag and Deluge, i.e. about 100m down from Scandal.
1.     20m F1 13 Ascend a broken face to a small tree in a chink. Break through the overhang and continue up to a ledge.
2.     23m F2 15 Move 2m right towards an obvious small crack. Ascend crack. Continue to top.
First Ascent: Oct 1976 M Prior and R Hoare.
DELUGE     11 (E3) L [N]
1.     18m 11 (E3) Start opposite LOST TRAIL in an obtuse angled recess. Ascend 12m to top of small buttress on the right. Then move diagonally up to the left past a flat, poised block to a wide ledge. Walk to the left to where the ledge narrows. This point is opposite SEPULCHRE.
2.     12m 10 (E2/E3) Traverse left along narrow ledge to crack which slants up to the right. Ascend to the top of the crack. Some scrambling is necessary to reach the top of the face.
First Ascent: 1966 M Prior, H Graafland
CACTUS CRAG     8 (E1) L [N]
Commences just above swimming pool adjacent to lunch venue. Route of least resistance is followed until a smooth chimney is reached on the left hand side. This constitutes the first difficult pitch. From there a diagonal face is climbed, bearing right (D) to a prominent pinnacle. The usual route is up this, bearing right, although the face immediately above is interesting. There is plenty of scope for variation.
First Ascent: Feb 1937 S Le Roux and P Houmoller.
LT POSTITUTE’S CRACK     22 (G3) L ** [N]
The route is located on the buttress directly opposite to Alchemy and Last Rites.
1.     25m F3 17 Climb the face directly below the steep wall with a white staining leading down from a set of roofs.
2.     30m G3 22 Once on the ledge start at the right hand recess (open book) and move up and to the left onto a thin crack system. Move right past a peg up to a set of roofs. Move left to face the roofs and traverse left around the corner to a good belay.
Note : G Mallory straightened the line by going straight up the wall on the arete after the traverse left under the roofs.
First Ascent: Oct 1985 P Schlotfeldt and G Graafland.
TREPIDATION     11 (E3) L * [N]
The climb starts from the large boulder which separates the Eel Pool and Big Pool. i.e. opposite CONSOLATION
1.     23m 10 (E2/E3) Climb up a steep diagonal ledge which steps up to a tree about 11m above stream bed and 6m upstream from starting point. Then ascend open book for 4,5m and 6m up face to the right of the open book to a grassy ledge with tree.
2.     22m 7 (D/E1) Climb a 3m chimney about 3m upstream from tree, followed by 18m up face to right of chimney to another tree belay on large ledge.
3.     15m 11 (E3) Ascend 4,5m behind belay point to the ledge. Then traverse left along ledge to tree belay at foot of pinnacle.
4.     14m 11 (E3) Climb 8m up outer face of pinnacle. Traverse 3m to right from top of pinnacle into an open book. Follow this to the top.
First Ascent: May 1955 R Kinsley, S Baron, P Weinberg
VORPAL SWORD     22 (G3) L ** [N]
Starts directly downstream of the crux of the Help-Help traverse.
1.     22 (G3) 15m Start in the right facing recess, climb this and the continuation crack line up the wall.
First Ascent: Aug 1989 KM Smith

Southern Tonquani

This is on the south-facing cliffs above the southern access to Tonquani above the farm Kruger’s Kraal. It is 100-150m west of the nek. A vegetated gully cuts diagonally across the cliff band.

HERE BE SALAMANDERS     17 [N]
100-150m west of the nek, a vegetated gully cuts diagonally across the cliff band; about 40m further west, there is a prominent east-facing corner, with the left hand face highly fractured and a grove of bushes at the base. Climb the shallow chimney/groove in the back of the corner to avoid the loose rock on the lower face. At about 5m, step left onto a narrow ledge. Continue diagonally up and left to reach the lowest portion of the top of the face. Rock quality is suspect on this route.
First Ascent: Dec 2003 Dylan Morgan, Adam Feldman


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