Bouldering at Llandudno, Guide, Topo

Picture: Joe Möhle getting some big air on Zero Gravity 7B+. Photo by Jimbo Smith

Llandudno is best known for it short desperate slab climbing above dodgy bolts from the 80′s. But more recently it is being frequented by a new generation of climbers looking for new urban bouldering areas. If nothing else it’s a sweet spot to chill with your buddies after a good training session and watch the sun go down over the sea.

Llandudno Bouldering is 8 km from the centre of Cape Town and approached by one of the most scenic drives, over Suikerbossie Hill from Hout Bay or in the other direction from Camps Bay, along Victoria Road, Llandudno lies nestled in a private and peaceful cove with one of the most secluded and beautiful beaches in the city.

Highballing is an important part of bouldering and in other parts of the world (e.g. Bishop, CA) climbers are pushing the limits of the sport by climbing boulders that would dwarf the Guardian Angel boulder.  If hitting the deck frightens you, then bring more pads or stay in the gym, but please don’t stagnate the progression of our sport and scar these beautiful boulders with bolts.

The area is divided into two sectors, split by an obvious clearing in the centre of the headland.  The biggest boulder is “the egg” and serves as a good point of orientation (still unclimbed).  Llandudno boasts over one hundred documented problems and counting.

It is important to think out of the box at Llandudno and not get caught up in the “no more problems, all too easy or too hard” mindset.   There are undoubtedly many more classics waiting for those with the imagination to express themselves through the climbing here.

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Llandudno Gallery

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