Cogman’s Buttress is the large rock mountain that comes into view as you drive through the tunnel on the R62 (coming from the direction of Cape Town). The buttress has 7 multi-pitch sport routes and a couple of trad lines. The most popular routes are ‘Another Day In Paradise’ and Magical Mystery Tour’ – these routes are bolted extremely well (safely). An early start is recommended during the Summer months to avoid getting ‘burnt by the sun’.
How to get there
Drive out of Montagu, go around the first bend +- 250 meters on your right there is an entrance with a gate. Park here (do not obstruct the entrance).
The path starts across the road and is marked with a cairn. There are cairns marking the path.
Cogmans Buttress Routes from LEFT to right.
|#||ROUTE NAME / AREA||GRADE||# BOLTS||RATING||BOLTING/OPENED INFO||DESCRIPTION|
|1.||Another Day In Paradise||P1. 4a/10
P2. 6b+/22 or 19 A0
|P1. 5B 23m
P2. 13B 25m
P3. 7B 20m
P4. 9B 30m
P5. 5B 20m
P6. 11B 25m
P7. 9B 20m
|*****||Bolted by: Stuart Brown – 18 April 2004. Bolts & belay plates sponsored by Axel Wegmann, Swiss visitor and friend.||The 2nd Pitch of Another Day In Paradise can be avoided by climbing Magical Mystery Tour and using the link up bolt after the 4th bolt on pitch 3, which will take you to the stance above pitch of Another Day In Paradise.Descent: Abseil down route. 60m rope!
Beware of loose flake above bolt 6 on last pitch!
|2.||Magical Mystery Tour||P1. 4a/10
|P1. 4B 15m shares first 3 bolts with paradise.
P2. 9B 20m
P3. 9B 30m
P4. 11B 30m
|*****||Bolted by: Stuart Brown 8 April 2004. Bolts sponsored by De Bos Guest Farm||Descent: Ab down route. 60m rope!Link up to second stance on Another Day in Paradise after the 4th bolt on pitch 3.|
|3||The Rave||P1. 6b+/22
|P1. 8B 30m
P2. 14B 40m
P3. 7B 30m
P4. 7B 15m
P5. 4B 20m
P6. 11B 30m
|G Hollwill & M Johnston 1998||Abseil down Magical Mystery Tour. Don’t abseil down The Rave.|
|4||Walkin’ on Sunshine, Woohoo||P1. 4b/14
|P1. 9B 27m
P2. 9B 30m
P3. 9B 30m
|Bolted by: Justin & Riki Lawson 2014.||Start up the white ramp on the right of the Rave. The route crosses over the Rave.|
|5.||Tocando El Vacio||P1. 24/6c+
P2. 27/7b+ (there is a 19 variation to the right of the crux)
|P1. 7B 35m
P2. 7B 35m
P3. 7B 35m
P4. 11B 25m
|Bolted from ground up by Albert Segura, Pilar Rossimyol, Antonio Bayoma – 05.08.03||50m right of “The Rave”. Decent: 3xAbseils down the route. 30m; 35m; 60m!!!|
|6.||Low Battery||P1. 16/5b
|P1. 4B 20m
P2. 6B 25m
P3. 4B 12m
P4. 4B 12m
|Bolted from ground up by Albert Segura, Pilar Rossimyol, Catherine Mader,Antonio Bayoma – 7/8.07. 03||You might need a set of nuts on first pitch. Decent: 2xAbseils. P4-P1 50m; P1- ground|
|7.||Burnt by the Sun||P1: 17
|P1: 13B 28m
P2: 12B 26m
P3: 11B 28m
P4: 16B 30m
|****||M. Roberts & P. McCann. 2003|
The routes here require a 60 meter rope – remember to tie a knot in the end of your rope as some of the abseils are very long.