http://www.climbing.co.za/w/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Xmod&feedformat=atom South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]2016-08-26T01:33:40ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.23.2http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/The_Shooting_GalleryThe Shooting Gallery2015-02-23T04:57:06Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Infobox Crag<br />
| Latitude = -33.806475 <br />
| Longitude = 20.106508<br />
| Climbing Type = Sport<br />
| Gradient = Vertical<br />
| Walkin = 45 minute uphill walk<br />
| Aspect = Morning Shade <br />
| Province = Western Cape<br />
| Area = Montagu <br />
}}<br />
<br />
A 60m meter rope is the minimum necessary, 70m is better for Ricochet/Trigger Happy, 80m for the project - its HUGE. The routes are long and strenuous, top anchors need improving. 25 mins uphill walk. Morning shade.<br />
<br />
==Online Topo==<br />
http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/montagu/keur-kloof/shooting-gallery/<br />
[[Category:Montagu]]</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2014-06-30T20:24:13Z<p>Xmod: /* Neptune's Cove */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Infobox Area<br />
| Latitude = -34.128236<br />
| Longitude = 18.441106<br />
| Climbing Type = Sport<br />
| Rock Type = Sandstone, All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
| Season = Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
| Province = Western Cape<br />
| Area = Cape Town <br />
<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br />
37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== New Route Development (Bolting) ==<br />
There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. <b>NB:</b> Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.<br />
<br />
<br />
== How to get there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptune's cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
= Map =<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== The Back of the Boatyard ===<br />
<br />
[[image:KalkBayDrunkenMaster.jpg|360x480px]]<br />
<br />
There are some old top anchors and a single bolt right on top of the wall. Origins unknown.<br/><br />
<b>1. The Drunken Master</b> 25/7a+ (trad) FA Phlip Olivier Jan2012<br/><br />
Climbs the steep crack to the right of the arête. Sangbag if you don't bring your boxing gloves.<br/><br />
<b>2. Project</b> (trad) will go at around 27/28 if you can find someone willing to belay you.<br/><br />
Start as for Drunken Master. After the crux, move left to top out over the arête.<br/><br />
<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter 2004.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004 <br/><br />
<br />
All bolts Hilti HSAR 316<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood & Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner 2003.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
All bolts Hilti HSAR 316<br />
<br />
=== Neptune's Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>4. Salami</b> 27/7b+ FA Guy Holwill 2000<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptune's Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2003 (bolted by Guy Holwill 2000. Bolt type unknown), The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter 1996<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>2c. Lurchin' to the Left</b> 23/6c+ (mixed line) FA? Phlip Olivier. Start as for Lurchin' Urchin. At second bolt traverse left to vertical slots. These slots and some pockets take you straight up to end just left of chains. Couple of small cams/nuts will do the trick. (Note: this line has probably been done before. Now its been documented)<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c? (bolted by Greg Hart 1998? Hilti HSAR 316)<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2005<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart 2004. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts) Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
<br />
[[image:K Bay lower tier topo3.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeard's Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave. (bolted by Sean Maasch 1996. Bolt type unknown)<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts)<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt 2005. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts)<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel 2006.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Ticks</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2006. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts)<br />
Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Ticks.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Sunset Arête</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart 2004. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts) The arete in between Blackbeard's Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>7. Open Project</b> 8b? (bolted by Andy Davies 1996. Bolt type unknown)<br />
<br />
<b>8. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>9. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>10. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.<br />
<br />
=== Mini Roof ===<br />
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) <br/><br />
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]<br />
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]<br />
<br/><br />
<b>1. Roofie</b> 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier <br/><br />
<b>2. Ninja Warrior</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2014-06-30T20:20:46Z<p>Xmod: /* Dockside */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Infobox Area<br />
| Latitude = -34.128236<br />
| Longitude = 18.441106<br />
| Climbing Type = Sport<br />
| Rock Type = Sandstone, All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
| Season = Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
| Province = Western Cape<br />
| Area = Cape Town <br />
<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br />
37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== New Route Development (Bolting) ==<br />
There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. <b>NB:</b> Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.<br />
<br />
<br />
== How to get there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptune's cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
= Map =<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== The Back of the Boatyard ===<br />
<br />
[[image:KalkBayDrunkenMaster.jpg|360x480px]]<br />
<br />
There are some old top anchors and a single bolt right on top of the wall. Origins unknown.<br/><br />
<b>1. The Drunken Master</b> 25/7a+ (trad) FA Phlip Olivier Jan2012<br/><br />
Climbs the steep crack to the right of the arête. Sangbag if you don't bring your boxing gloves.<br/><br />
<b>2. Project</b> (trad) will go at around 27/28 if you can find someone willing to belay you.<br/><br />
Start as for Drunken Master. After the crux, move left to top out over the arête.<br/><br />
<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter 2004.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004 <br/><br />
<br />
All bolts Hilti HSAR 316<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood & Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner 2003.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
All bolts Hilti HSAR 316<br />
<br />
=== Neptune's Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>4. Salami</b> 27/7b+ FA Guy Holwill 2000<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptune's Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2003 (bolted by Guy Holwill 2000), The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter 1996<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>2c. Lurchin' to the Left</b> 23/6c+ (mixed line) FA? Phlip Olivier. Start as for Lurchin' Urchin. At second bolt traverse left to vertical slots. These slots and some pockets take you straight up to end just left of chains. Couple of small cams/nuts will do the trick. (Note: this line has probably been done before. Now its been documented)<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c? (bolted by Greg Hart 1998? Hilti HSAR 316)<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2005<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart 2004. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts) Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
<br />
[[image:K Bay lower tier topo3.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeard's Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave. (bolted by Sean Maasch 1996. Bolt type unknown)<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts)<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt 2005. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts)<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel 2006.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Ticks</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2006. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts)<br />
Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Ticks.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Sunset Arête</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart 2004. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts) The arete in between Blackbeard's Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>7. Open Project</b> 8b? (bolted by Andy Davies 1996. Bolt type unknown)<br />
<br />
<b>8. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>9. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>10. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.<br />
<br />
=== Mini Roof ===<br />
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) <br/><br />
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]<br />
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]<br />
<br/><br />
<b>1. Roofie</b> 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier <br/><br />
<b>2. Ninja Warrior</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2014-06-30T20:18:50Z<p>Xmod: /* Mermaid Wall */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Infobox Area<br />
| Latitude = -34.128236<br />
| Longitude = 18.441106<br />
| Climbing Type = Sport<br />
| Rock Type = Sandstone, All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
| Season = Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
| Province = Western Cape<br />
| Area = Cape Town <br />
<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br />
37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== New Route Development (Bolting) ==<br />
There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. <b>NB:</b> Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.<br />
<br />
<br />
== How to get there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptune's cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
= Map =<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== The Back of the Boatyard ===<br />
<br />
[[image:KalkBayDrunkenMaster.jpg|360x480px]]<br />
<br />
There are some old top anchors and a single bolt right on top of the wall. Origins unknown.<br/><br />
<b>1. The Drunken Master</b> 25/7a+ (trad) FA Phlip Olivier Jan2012<br/><br />
Climbs the steep crack to the right of the arête. Sangbag if you don't bring your boxing gloves.<br/><br />
<b>2. Project</b> (trad) will go at around 27/28 if you can find someone willing to belay you.<br/><br />
Start as for Drunken Master. After the crux, move left to top out over the arête.<br/><br />
<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter 2004.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004 <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood & Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner 2003.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
=== Neptune's Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>4. Salami</b> 27/7b+ FA Guy Holwill 2000<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptune's Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2003 (bolted by Guy Holwill 2000), The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter 1996<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>2c. Lurchin' to the Left</b> 23/6c+ (mixed line) FA? Phlip Olivier. Start as for Lurchin' Urchin. At second bolt traverse left to vertical slots. These slots and some pockets take you straight up to end just left of chains. Couple of small cams/nuts will do the trick. (Note: this line has probably been done before. Now its been documented)<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c? (bolted by Greg Hart 1998? Hilti HSAR 316)<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2005<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart 2004. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts) Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
<br />
[[image:K Bay lower tier topo3.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeard's Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave. (bolted by Sean Maasch 1996. Bolt type unknown)<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts)<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt 2005. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts)<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel 2006.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Ticks</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2006. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts)<br />
Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Ticks.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Sunset Arête</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart 2004. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts) The arete in between Blackbeard's Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>7. Open Project</b> 8b? (bolted by Andy Davies 1996. Bolt type unknown)<br />
<br />
<b>8. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>9. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>10. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.<br />
<br />
=== Mini Roof ===<br />
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) <br/><br />
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]<br />
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]<br />
<br/><br />
<b>1. Roofie</b> 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier <br/><br />
<b>2. Ninja Warrior</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2014-06-30T20:17:38Z<p>Xmod: /* Blackbeard's Cave */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Infobox Area<br />
| Latitude = -34.128236<br />
| Longitude = 18.441106<br />
| Climbing Type = Sport<br />
| Rock Type = Sandstone, All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
| Season = Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
| Province = Western Cape<br />
| Area = Cape Town <br />
<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br />
37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== New Route Development (Bolting) ==<br />
There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. <b>NB:</b> Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.<br />
<br />
<br />
== How to get there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptune's cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
= Map =<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== The Back of the Boatyard ===<br />
<br />
[[image:KalkBayDrunkenMaster.jpg|360x480px]]<br />
<br />
There are some old top anchors and a single bolt right on top of the wall. Origins unknown.<br/><br />
<b>1. The Drunken Master</b> 25/7a+ (trad) FA Phlip Olivier Jan2012<br/><br />
Climbs the steep crack to the right of the arête. Sangbag if you don't bring your boxing gloves.<br/><br />
<b>2. Project</b> (trad) will go at around 27/28 if you can find someone willing to belay you.<br/><br />
Start as for Drunken Master. After the crux, move left to top out over the arête.<br/><br />
<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter 2004.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004 <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood & Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner 2003.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
=== Neptune's Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>4. Salami</b> 27/7b+ FA Guy Holwill 2000<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptune's Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2003 (bolted by Guy Holwill 2000), The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter 1996<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>2c. Lurchin' to the Left</b> 23/6c+ (mixed line) FA? Phlip Olivier. Start as for Lurchin' Urchin. At second bolt traverse left to vertical slots. These slots and some pockets take you straight up to end just left of chains. Couple of small cams/nuts will do the trick. (Note: this line has probably been done before. Now its been documented)<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c? (bolted by Greg Hart 1998? Hilti HSAR 316)<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2005<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
<br />
[[image:K Bay lower tier topo3.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeard's Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave. (bolted by Sean Maasch 1996. Bolt type unknown)<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts)<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt 2005. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts)<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel 2006.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Ticks</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2006. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts)<br />
Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Ticks.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Sunset Arête</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart 2004. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts) The arete in between Blackbeard's Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>7. Open Project</b> 8b? (bolted by Andy Davies 1996. Bolt type unknown)<br />
<br />
<b>8. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>9. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>10. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.<br />
<br />
=== Mini Roof ===<br />
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) <br/><br />
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]<br />
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]<br />
<br/><br />
<b>1. Roofie</b> 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier <br/><br />
<b>2. Ninja Warrior</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2014-06-30T20:16:16Z<p>Xmod: /* Blackbeard's Cave */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Infobox Area<br />
| Latitude = -34.128236<br />
| Longitude = 18.441106<br />
| Climbing Type = Sport<br />
| Rock Type = Sandstone, All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
| Season = Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
| Province = Western Cape<br />
| Area = Cape Town <br />
<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br />
37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== New Route Development (Bolting) ==<br />
There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. <b>NB:</b> Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.<br />
<br />
<br />
== How to get there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptune's cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
= Map =<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== The Back of the Boatyard ===<br />
<br />
[[image:KalkBayDrunkenMaster.jpg|360x480px]]<br />
<br />
There are some old top anchors and a single bolt right on top of the wall. Origins unknown.<br/><br />
<b>1. The Drunken Master</b> 25/7a+ (trad) FA Phlip Olivier Jan2012<br/><br />
Climbs the steep crack to the right of the arête. Sangbag if you don't bring your boxing gloves.<br/><br />
<b>2. Project</b> (trad) will go at around 27/28 if you can find someone willing to belay you.<br/><br />
Start as for Drunken Master. After the crux, move left to top out over the arête.<br/><br />
<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter 2004.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004 <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood & Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner 2003.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
=== Neptune's Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>4. Salami</b> 27/7b+ FA Guy Holwill 2000<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptune's Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2003 (bolted by Guy Holwill 2000), The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter 1996<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>2c. Lurchin' to the Left</b> 23/6c+ (mixed line) FA? Phlip Olivier. Start as for Lurchin' Urchin. At second bolt traverse left to vertical slots. These slots and some pockets take you straight up to end just left of chains. Couple of small cams/nuts will do the trick. (Note: this line has probably been done before. Now its been documented)<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c? (bolted by Greg Hart 1998? Hilti HSAR 316)<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2005<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
<br />
[[image:K Bay lower tier topo3.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeard's Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave. (bolted by Sean Maasch 1996. Bolt type unknown)<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts)<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt 2005. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts)<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel 2006.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Ticks</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2006. (Hilti HSAR 316 bolts)<br />
Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Ticks.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Sunset Arête</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeard's Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>7. Open Project</b> 8b? (bolted by Andy Davies 1996. Bolt type unknown)<br />
<br />
<b>8. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>9. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>10. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.<br />
<br />
=== Mini Roof ===<br />
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) <br/><br />
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]<br />
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]<br />
<br/><br />
<b>1. Roofie</b> 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier <br/><br />
<b>2. Ninja Warrior</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2014-06-30T20:14:56Z<p>Xmod: /* The Treasure Chest */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Infobox Area<br />
| Latitude = -34.128236<br />
| Longitude = 18.441106<br />
| Climbing Type = Sport<br />
| Rock Type = Sandstone, All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
| Season = Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
| Province = Western Cape<br />
| Area = Cape Town <br />
<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br />
37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== New Route Development (Bolting) ==<br />
There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. <b>NB:</b> Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.<br />
<br />
<br />
== How to get there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptune's cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
= Map =<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== The Back of the Boatyard ===<br />
<br />
[[image:KalkBayDrunkenMaster.jpg|360x480px]]<br />
<br />
There are some old top anchors and a single bolt right on top of the wall. Origins unknown.<br/><br />
<b>1. The Drunken Master</b> 25/7a+ (trad) FA Phlip Olivier Jan2012<br/><br />
Climbs the steep crack to the right of the arête. Sangbag if you don't bring your boxing gloves.<br/><br />
<b>2. Project</b> (trad) will go at around 27/28 if you can find someone willing to belay you.<br/><br />
Start as for Drunken Master. After the crux, move left to top out over the arête.<br/><br />
<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter 2004.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004 <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood & Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner 2003.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
=== Neptune's Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>4. Salami</b> 27/7b+ FA Guy Holwill 2000<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptune's Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2003 (bolted by Guy Holwill 2000), The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter 1996<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>2c. Lurchin' to the Left</b> 23/6c+ (mixed line) FA? Phlip Olivier. Start as for Lurchin' Urchin. At second bolt traverse left to vertical slots. These slots and some pockets take you straight up to end just left of chains. Couple of small cams/nuts will do the trick. (Note: this line has probably been done before. Now its been documented)<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c? (bolted by Greg Hart 1998? Hilti HSAR 316)<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2005<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
<br />
[[image:K Bay lower tier topo3.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeard's Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave. (bolted by Sean Maasch 1996. Bolt type unknown)<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt 2005.<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel 2006.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Ticks</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2006. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Ticks.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Sunset Arête</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeard's Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>7. Open Project</b> 8b? (bolted by Andy Davies 1996. Bolt type unknown)<br />
<br />
<b>8. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>9. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>10. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.<br />
<br />
=== Mini Roof ===<br />
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) <br/><br />
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]<br />
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]<br />
<br/><br />
<b>1. Roofie</b> 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier <br/><br />
<b>2. Ninja Warrior</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2014-06-30T20:13:43Z<p>Xmod: /* Blackbeard's Cave */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Infobox Area<br />
| Latitude = -34.128236<br />
| Longitude = 18.441106<br />
| Climbing Type = Sport<br />
| Rock Type = Sandstone, All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
| Season = Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
| Province = Western Cape<br />
| Area = Cape Town <br />
<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br />
37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== New Route Development (Bolting) ==<br />
There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. <b>NB:</b> Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.<br />
<br />
<br />
== How to get there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptune's cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
= Map =<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== The Back of the Boatyard ===<br />
<br />
[[image:KalkBayDrunkenMaster.jpg|360x480px]]<br />
<br />
There are some old top anchors and a single bolt right on top of the wall. Origins unknown.<br/><br />
<b>1. The Drunken Master</b> 25/7a+ (trad) FA Phlip Olivier Jan2012<br/><br />
Climbs the steep crack to the right of the arête. Sangbag if you don't bring your boxing gloves.<br/><br />
<b>2. Project</b> (trad) will go at around 27/28 if you can find someone willing to belay you.<br/><br />
Start as for Drunken Master. After the crux, move left to top out over the arête.<br/><br />
<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter 2004.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004 <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood & Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner 2003.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
=== Neptune's Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>4. Salami</b> 27/7b+ FA Guy Holwill 2000<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptune's Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2003 (bolted by Guy Holwill 2000), The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter 1996<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>2c. Lurchin' to the Left</b> 23/6c+ (mixed line) FA? Phlip Olivier. Start as for Lurchin' Urchin. At second bolt traverse left to vertical slots. These slots and some pockets take you straight up to end just left of chains. Couple of small cams/nuts will do the trick. (Note: this line has probably been done before. Now its been documented)<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c? (bolted by Greg Hart 1998? Hilti HSAR 316)<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2005<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
<br />
[[image:K Bay lower tier topo3.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeard's Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave. (bolted by Sean Maasch 1996. Bolt type unknown)<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt 2005.<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel 2006.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Ticks</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2006. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Ticks.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Sunset Arête</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeard's Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>7. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<br />
<b>8. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>9. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>10. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.<br />
<br />
=== Mini Roof ===<br />
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) <br/><br />
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]<br />
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]<br />
<br/><br />
<b>1. Roofie</b> 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier <br/><br />
<b>2. Ninja Warrior</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2014-06-30T20:10:58Z<p>Xmod: /* Oyster Box */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Infobox Area<br />
| Latitude = -34.128236<br />
| Longitude = 18.441106<br />
| Climbing Type = Sport<br />
| Rock Type = Sandstone, All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
| Season = Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
| Province = Western Cape<br />
| Area = Cape Town <br />
<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br />
37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== New Route Development (Bolting) ==<br />
There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. <b>NB:</b> Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.<br />
<br />
<br />
== How to get there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptune's cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
= Map =<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== The Back of the Boatyard ===<br />
<br />
[[image:KalkBayDrunkenMaster.jpg|360x480px]]<br />
<br />
There are some old top anchors and a single bolt right on top of the wall. Origins unknown.<br/><br />
<b>1. The Drunken Master</b> 25/7a+ (trad) FA Phlip Olivier Jan2012<br/><br />
Climbs the steep crack to the right of the arête. Sangbag if you don't bring your boxing gloves.<br/><br />
<b>2. Project</b> (trad) will go at around 27/28 if you can find someone willing to belay you.<br/><br />
Start as for Drunken Master. After the crux, move left to top out over the arête.<br/><br />
<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter 2004.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004 <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood & Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner 2003.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
=== Neptune's Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>4. Salami</b> 27/7b+ FA Guy Holwill 2000<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptune's Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2003 (bolted by Guy Holwill 2000), The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter 1996<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>2c. Lurchin' to the Left</b> 23/6c+ (mixed line) FA? Phlip Olivier. Start as for Lurchin' Urchin. At second bolt traverse left to vertical slots. These slots and some pockets take you straight up to end just left of chains. Couple of small cams/nuts will do the trick. (Note: this line has probably been done before. Now its been documented)<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c? (bolted by Greg Hart 1998? Hilti HSAR 316)<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2005<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
<br />
[[image:K Bay lower tier topo3.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeard's Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Ticks</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Sunset Arête</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeard's Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>7. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<br />
<b>8. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>9. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>10. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.<br />
<br />
=== Mini Roof ===<br />
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) <br/><br />
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]<br />
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]<br />
<br/><br />
<b>1. Roofie</b> 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier <br/><br />
<b>2. Ninja Warrior</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2014-06-30T20:07:25Z<p>Xmod: /* Neptune's Cove */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Infobox Area<br />
| Latitude = -34.128236<br />
| Longitude = 18.441106<br />
| Climbing Type = Sport<br />
| Rock Type = Sandstone, All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
| Season = Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
| Province = Western Cape<br />
| Area = Cape Town <br />
<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br />
37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== New Route Development (Bolting) ==<br />
There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. <b>NB:</b> Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.<br />
<br />
<br />
== How to get there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptune's cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
= Map =<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== The Back of the Boatyard ===<br />
<br />
[[image:KalkBayDrunkenMaster.jpg|360x480px]]<br />
<br />
There are some old top anchors and a single bolt right on top of the wall. Origins unknown.<br/><br />
<b>1. The Drunken Master</b> 25/7a+ (trad) FA Phlip Olivier Jan2012<br/><br />
Climbs the steep crack to the right of the arête. Sangbag if you don't bring your boxing gloves.<br/><br />
<b>2. Project</b> (trad) will go at around 27/28 if you can find someone willing to belay you.<br/><br />
Start as for Drunken Master. After the crux, move left to top out over the arête.<br/><br />
<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter 2004.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004 <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood & Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner 2003.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
=== Neptune's Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart 2005<br />
<br />
<b>4. Salami</b> 27/7b+ FA Guy Holwill 2000<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptune's Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2003 (bolted by Guy Holwill 2000), The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>2c. Lurchin' to the Left</b> 23/6c+ (mixed line) FA? Phlip Olivier. Start as for Lurchin' Urchin. At second bolt traverse left to vertical slots. These slots and some pockets take you straight up to end just left of chains. Couple of small cams/nuts will do the trick. (Note: this line has probably been done before. Now its been documented)<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
<br />
[[image:K Bay lower tier topo3.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeard's Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Ticks</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Sunset Arête</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeard's Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>7. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<br />
<b>8. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>9. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>10. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.<br />
<br />
=== Mini Roof ===<br />
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) <br/><br />
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]<br />
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]<br />
<br/><br />
<b>1. Roofie</b> 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier <br/><br />
<b>2. Ninja Warrior</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2014-06-30T20:03:04Z<p>Xmod: /* Dockside */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Infobox Area<br />
| Latitude = -34.128236<br />
| Longitude = 18.441106<br />
| Climbing Type = Sport<br />
| Rock Type = Sandstone, All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
| Season = Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
| Province = Western Cape<br />
| Area = Cape Town <br />
<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br />
37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== New Route Development (Bolting) ==<br />
There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. <b>NB:</b> Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.<br />
<br />
<br />
== How to get there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptune's cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
= Map =<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== The Back of the Boatyard ===<br />
<br />
[[image:KalkBayDrunkenMaster.jpg|360x480px]]<br />
<br />
There are some old top anchors and a single bolt right on top of the wall. Origins unknown.<br/><br />
<b>1. The Drunken Master</b> 25/7a+ (trad) FA Phlip Olivier Jan2012<br/><br />
Climbs the steep crack to the right of the arête. Sangbag if you don't bring your boxing gloves.<br/><br />
<b>2. Project</b> (trad) will go at around 27/28 if you can find someone willing to belay you.<br/><br />
Start as for Drunken Master. After the crux, move left to top out over the arête.<br/><br />
<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter 2004.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004 <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood & Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner 2003.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus 2003<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 2004<br />
<br />
=== Neptune's Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptune's Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>2c. Lurchin' to the Left</b> 23/6c+ (mixed line) FA? Phlip Olivier. Start as for Lurchin' Urchin. At second bolt traverse left to vertical slots. These slots and some pockets take you straight up to end just left of chains. Couple of small cams/nuts will do the trick. (Note: this line has probably been done before. Now its been documented)<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
<br />
[[image:K Bay lower tier topo3.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeard's Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Ticks</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Sunset Arête</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeard's Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>7. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<br />
<b>8. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>9. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>10. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.<br />
<br />
=== Mini Roof ===<br />
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) <br/><br />
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]<br />
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]<br />
<br/><br />
<b>1. Roofie</b> 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier <br/><br />
<b>2. Ninja Warrior</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/File:K_Bay_lower_tier_topo3.jpgFile:K Bay lower tier topo3.jpg2011-06-13T18:19:55Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-06-13T18:18:41Z<p>Xmod: /* The lower tier crags */</p>
<hr />
<div>37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone. All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== New Route Development (Bolting) ==<br />
There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. <b>NB:</b> Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptunes Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
<br />
[[image:K Bay lower tier topo3.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Tics</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Sunset Arete</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeards Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>7. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<br />
<b>8. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>9. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>10. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.<br />
<br />
=== Mini Roof ===<br />
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) <br/><br />
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]<br />
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]<br />
<br/><br />
<b>1. Roofie</b> 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier <br/><br />
<b>2. Ninja Warrior</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-06-13T18:18:03Z<p>Xmod: /* The Treasure Chest */</p>
<hr />
<div>37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone. All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== New Route Development (Bolting) ==<br />
There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. <b>NB:</b> Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptunes Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
<br />
[[image:K Bay lower tier topo2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Tics</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Sunset Arete</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeards Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>7. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<br />
<b>8. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>9. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>10. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.<br />
<br />
=== Mini Roof ===<br />
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) <br/><br />
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]<br />
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]<br />
<br/><br />
<b>1. Roofie</b> 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier <br/><br />
<b>2. Ninja Warrior</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-06-06T21:33:07Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div>37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone. All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== New Route Development (Bolting) ==<br />
There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. <b>NB:</b> Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptunes Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
<br />
[[image:K Bay lower tier topo2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Tics</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Sunset Arete</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeards Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>7. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<br />
<b>8. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>9. Open Project</b> 8c/+? Pulls through steep overhang on glued holds to join Wysiwig.<br />
<br />
<b>10. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>11. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.<br />
<br />
=== Mini Roof ===<br />
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) <br/><br />
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]<br />
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]<br />
<br/><br />
<b>1. Roofie</b> 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier <br/><br />
<b>2. Ninja Warrior</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/File:Kalk_Bay_crags_access_map,_view_from_space2.jpgFile:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg2011-06-06T21:15:52Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-06-06T21:15:03Z<p>Xmod: /* Getting there */</p>
<hr />
<div>37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone. All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptunes Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
<br />
[[image:K Bay lower tier topo2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Tics</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Sunset Arete</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeards Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>7. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<br />
<b>8. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>9. Open Project</b> 8c/+? Pulls through steep overhang on glued holds to join Wysiwig.<br />
<br />
<b>10. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>11. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.<br />
<br />
=== Mini Roof ===<br />
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) <br/><br />
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]<br />
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]<br />
<br/><br />
<b>1. Roofie</b> 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier <br/><br />
<b>2. Ninja Warrior</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/File:K_Bay_lower_tier_topo2.jpgFile:K Bay lower tier topo2.jpg2011-06-06T21:14:21Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-06-06T21:13:26Z<p>Xmod: /* The lower tier crags */</p>
<hr />
<div>37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone. All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptunes Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
<br />
[[image:K Bay lower tier topo2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Tics</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Sunset Arete</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeards Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>7. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<br />
<b>8. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>9. Open Project</b> 8c/+? Pulls through steep overhang on glued holds to join Wysiwig.<br />
<br />
<b>10. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>11. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.<br />
<br />
=== Mini Roof ===<br />
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) <br/><br />
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]<br />
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]<br />
<br/><br />
<b>1. Roofie</b> 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier <br/><br />
<b>2. Ninja Warrior</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/File:K_Bay_lower_tier_topo.jpgFile:K Bay lower tier topo.jpg2011-06-06T21:10:18Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-06-06T21:01:08Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div>37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone. All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptunes Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
<br />
[[image:K Bay lower tier topo.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Tics</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Sunset Arete</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeards Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>7. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<br />
<b>8. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>9. Open Project</b> 8c/+? Pulls through steep overhang on glued holds to join Wysiwig.<br />
<br />
<b>10. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>11. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.<br />
<br />
=== Mini Roof ===<br />
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) <br/><br />
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]<br />
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]<br />
<br/><br />
<b>1. Roofie</b> 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier <br/><br />
<b>2. Ninja Warrior</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-06-05T20:01:58Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div>37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone. All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptunes Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
(Topos coming soon!)<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Tics</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.<br />
<br />
<b>Sunset Arete</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeards Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<br />
<b>2. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8c/+? Pulls through steep overhang on glued holds to join Wysiwig.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>5. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-06-05T19:58:47Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div>37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone. All types of holds but lots of slopers.<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
(Topos coming soon!)<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Tics</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.<br />
<br />
<b>Sunset Arete</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeards Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<br />
<b>2. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8c/+? Pulls through steep overhang on glued holds to join Wysiwig.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>5. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-06-05T19:24:34Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> On the Clovelly the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== The lower tier crags ===<br />
(Topos coming soon!)<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Tics</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.<br />
<br />
<b>Sunset Arete</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeards Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<br />
<b>2. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8c/+? Pulls through steep overhang on glued holds to join Wysiwig.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>5. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-06-05T19:21:53Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> On the Clovelly the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
== The lower tier crags ==<br />
(Topos coming soon!)<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Tics</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.<br />
<br />
<b>Sunset Arete</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeards Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<br />
<b>2. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8c/+? Pulls through steep overhang on glued holds to join Wysiwig.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>5. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-06-05T19:19:56Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> On the Clovelly the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
== The lower tier crags == (Topos coming soon!)<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.<br />
<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Dickless Tics</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.<br />
<br />
<b>Sunset Arete</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeards Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<br />
<b>2. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8c/+? Pulls through steep overhang on glued holds to join Wysiwig.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<br />
<b>5. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-06-05T19:16:18Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> On the Clovelly the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
== The lower tier crags == (Topos coming soon!)<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.<br />
<b>4. Dickless Tics</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finishes as for Dickless Tics.<br />
<br />
<b>Sunset Arete</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeards Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<b>2. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8c/+? Pulls through steep overhang on glued holds to join Wysiwig.<br />
<b>4. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<b>5. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-06-05T19:13:06Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> On the Clovelly the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
== Route updates ==<br />
The lower tier crags. Topos coming soon!<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.<br />
<b>2. Dark Angel</b> 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<b>3. Xses</b> 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.<br />
<b>3a. Excessive Xses</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.<br />
<b>4. Dickless Tics</b> 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes<br />
<b>5. Space Wasp</b> 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finishes as for Dickless Tics.<br />
<br />
<b>Sunset Arete</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeards Cave and the Treasure Chest.<br />
<br />
=== The Treasure Chest ===<br />
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.<br />
<b>1. Open Project</b> 8b?<br />
<b>2. Golden Eye</b> 30/8a FA Nick Mathews<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8c? Pulls through steep overhang on glued holds to join Wysiwig. edge<br />
<b>4. Wysiwig</b> 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.<br />
<b>5. Tetris</b> 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wwsiwig then straight up.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-05-29T21:01:25Z<p>Xmod: /* Neptunes Cove */</p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> On the Clovelly the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 26/7b FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
== Route updates ==<br />
The lower tier crags. Topos coming soon!<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
* <b>Dark Angel (30) </b><br/><br />
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Xses (24) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).<br/><br />
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Unnamed (25/26) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-05-29T20:59:09Z<p>Xmod: /* Getting there */</p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> On the Clovelly the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown<br/><br />
Right of cave from the raised ledge.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 26/7b FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
== Route updates ==<br />
The lower tier crags. Topos coming soon!<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
* <b>Dark Angel (30) </b><br/><br />
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Xses (24) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).<br/><br />
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Unnamed (25/26) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-05-29T20:58:31Z<p>Xmod: /* Getting there */</p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> On the Clovelly the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown<br/><br />
Right of cave from the raised ledge.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 26/7b FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
== Route updates ==<br />
The lower tier crags. Topos coming soon!<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
* <b>Dark Angel (30) </b><br/><br />
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Xses (24) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).<br/><br />
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Unnamed (25/26) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-05-29T20:53:34Z<p>Xmod: /* Getting there */</p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> From the Clovelly side climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown<br/><br />
Right of cave from the raised ledge.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 26/7b FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
== Route updates ==<br />
The lower tier crags. Topos coming soon!<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
* <b>Dark Angel (30) </b><br/><br />
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Xses (24) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).<br/><br />
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Unnamed (25/26) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/File:Mermaid_wall.jpgFile:Mermaid wall.jpg2011-05-29T20:40:16Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-05-29T20:38:36Z<p>Xmod: /* Topos / Routes */</p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown<br/><br />
Right of cave from the raised ledge.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 26/7b FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Mermaid Wall ===<br />
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.<br />
<br />
[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Jack in the Green</b> 22/6c FA Beth Higgins<br />
<br />
<b>2. Songs from the Wood</b> 18/6a FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>3. City Rockers</b> 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Mermaid</b> 16/5c FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
== Route updates ==<br />
The lower tier crags. Topos coming soon!<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
* <b>Dark Angel (30) </b><br/><br />
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Xses (24) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).<br/><br />
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Unnamed (25/26) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/File:Sinbad.jpgFile:Sinbad.jpg2011-05-29T20:29:55Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-05-29T20:28:04Z<p>Xmod: /* Oyster Box */</p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown<br/><br />
Right of cave from the raised ledge.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16 FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 26/7b FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Sinbad</b> 18/6a FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
* <b>Dark Angel (30) </b><br/><br />
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Xses (24) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).<br/><br />
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Unnamed (25/26) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-05-29T20:24:36Z<p>Xmod: /* Getting there */</p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side:</b> One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown<br/><br />
Right of cave from the raised ledge.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16 FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 26/7b FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
* <b>Dark Angel (30) </b><br/><br />
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Xses (24) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).<br/><br />
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Unnamed (25/26) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-05-29T20:23:31Z<p>Xmod: /* Topos / Routes */</p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
<b>East side)</b>: At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side)</b>: One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).<br />
=== The Boatyard ===<br />
<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/><br />
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown<br/><br />
Right of cave from the raised ledge.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16 FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 26/7b FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
* <b>Dark Angel (30) </b><br/><br />
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Xses (24) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).<br/><br />
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Unnamed (25/26) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-05-29T20:19:10Z<p>Xmod: /* The climbing */</p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
<b>East side)</b>: At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side)</b>: One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown<br/><br />
Right of cave from the raised ledge.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16 FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 26/7b FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
* <b>Dark Angel (30) </b><br/><br />
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Xses (24) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).<br/><br />
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Unnamed (25/26) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-05-29T20:18:13Z<p>Xmod: /* Gear */</p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
<b>East side)</b>: At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side)</b>: One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown<br/><br />
Right of cave from the raised ledge.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16 FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 26/7b FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
* <b>Dark Angel (30) </b><br/><br />
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Xses (24) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).<br/><br />
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Unnamed (25/26) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/File:Catfish_to_Art_of_War.jpgFile:Catfish to Art of War.jpg2011-05-29T20:17:03Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/File:Oyster_Box.jpgFile:Oyster Box.jpg2011-05-29T20:14:52Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-05-29T20:12:45Z<p>Xmod: /* Oyster Box */</p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 6 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
<b>East side)</b>: At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side)</b>: One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown<br/><br />
Right of cave from the raised ledge.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).<br />
<br />
<b>1. Oyster</b> 16 FA Ross Suter<br />
<br />
<b>2. Lurchin' Urchin</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.<br />
<br />
<b>2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct</b> 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Open Project</b> 8b/c?<br />
<br />
<b>4. Catfish Rising</b> 22/6c FA Tony Lourens<br />
<br />
<b>5. Heartbreak</b> 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
<b>6. Pocket Rocket</b> 26/7b FA Jason Orton<br />
<br />
<b>7. The Art of War</b> 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
* <b>Dark Angel (30) </b><br/><br />
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Xses (24) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).<br/><br />
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Unnamed (25/26) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/File:Neptunes_Cove,_Right_Sector.jpgFile:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg2011-05-29T19:49:59Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/File:Neptunes_cove,_left_sector.jpgFile:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg2011-05-29T19:48:25Z<p>Xmod: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-05-29T19:47:08Z<p>Xmod: /* Neptunes Cove */</p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 6 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
<b>East side)</b>: At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side)</b>: One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown<br/><br />
Right of cave from the raised ledge.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting. <br/><br />
* <b>Heartbreak (29) </b><br/><br />
Thin face right of Catfish Rising. Climb the direct face. An easier version may exist using slopers on the right.<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>The Art of War (32) </b><br/><br />
Right of Pocket Rocket (#18 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
* <b>Dark Angel (30) </b><br/><br />
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Xses (24) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).<br/><br />
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Unnamed (25/26) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-05-29T19:45:05Z<p>Xmod: /* Neptunes Cove */</p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 6 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
<b>East side)</b>: At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side)</b>: One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image.Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown<br/><br />
Right of cave from the raised ledge.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting. <br/><br />
* <b>Heartbreak (29) </b><br/><br />
Thin face right of Catfish Rising. Climb the direct face. An easier version may exist using slopers on the right.<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>The Art of War (32) </b><br/><br />
Right of Pocket Rocket (#18 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
* <b>Dark Angel (30) </b><br/><br />
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Xses (24) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).<br/><br />
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Unnamed (25/26) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-05-29T19:44:18Z<p>Xmod: /* Neptunes Cove */</p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 6 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
<b>East side)</b>: At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side)</b>: One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image.Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20/6b FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed</b>22/6c FA Unknown<br/><br />
Right of cave from the raised ledge.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b> 26(trad) FA Phlip Olivier<br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting. <br/><br />
* <b>Heartbreak (29) </b><br/><br />
Thin face right of Catfish Rising. Climb the direct face. An easier version may exist using slopers on the right.<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>The Art of War (32) </b><br/><br />
Right of Pocket Rocket (#18 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
* <b>Dark Angel (30) </b><br/><br />
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Xses (24) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).<br/><br />
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Unnamed (25/26) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-05-29T19:40:59Z<p>Xmod: /* Neptunes Cove */</p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 6 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
<b>East side)</b>: At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side)</b>: One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image.Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20 FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24 FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23 FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed (22)</b><br/><br />
Right of cave from the raised ledge. FA Unknown.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29 FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b><br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. FA Phlip Olivier(lead) / Guy Holwill (toprope)<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting. <br/><br />
* <b>Heartbreak (29) </b><br/><br />
Thin face right of Catfish Rising. Climb the direct face. An easier version may exist using slopers on the right.<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>The Art of War (32) </b><br/><br />
Right of Pocket Rocket (#18 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
* <b>Dark Angel (30) </b><br/><br />
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Xses (24) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).<br/><br />
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Unnamed (25/26) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.</div>Xmodhttp://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Kalk_BayKalk Bay2011-05-29T19:38:47Z<p>Xmod: /* Neptunes Cove */</p>
<hr />
<div>+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.<br />
<br />
== Season ==<br />
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.<br />
<br />
== Rock ==<br />
Sandstone<br />
<br />
== Gear ==<br />
Sport Rack of 6 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.<br />
<br />
== The climbing ==<br />
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.<br />
<br />
== Getting there ==<br />
<b>East side)</b>: At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/><br />
<b>West side)</b>: One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Topos / Routes ==<br />
=== Dockside ===<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Piracy</b> 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Stowaway</b> 20/6b FA Ross Suter.<br/>Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Wide Ride</b> 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis <br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Talamasca</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br/><br />
<br />
<b>2. Blood and Gold</b> 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.<br/><br />
<br />
<b>3. Lil Fishees</b> 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart<br/><br />
<br />
<b>4. Dolphin</b> 23/6c+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>5. Sushi</b> 25/7a+ FA Unknown<br/><br />
<br />
<b>6. Import Tax</b> 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis<br />
<br />
=== Neptunes Cove ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Left Sector</b><br />
<br />
This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.<br />
<br />
[[image.Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<b>1. Hang Thang</b> 20 FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>2. Cling Thing</b> 24 FA Malcolm Gowans<br />
<br />
<b>3. Kill Bill</b> 23 FA Greg Hart<br />
<br />
<b>Right Sector</b><br />
<br />
<b>1. Unnamed (22)</b><br/><br />
Right of cave from the raised ledge. FA Unknown.<br />
<br />
The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out the large flake slab right of (facing the crag) the rings is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.</br><br />
<b>2. Arete</b> 18<br />
<br />
<b>3. Flake right of Arete</b> 19<br />
<br />
<b>4. Thin grey face in middle</b> 23<br />
<br />
<b>5. Right edge of thin face</b> 21<br />
<br />
<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16<br />
<br />
<b>Espionage</b> 29 FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.<br />
<br />
<b>The Needle</b><br/><br />
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. FA Phlip Olivier(lead) / Guy Holwill (toprope)<br />
<br />
=== Oyster Box ===<br />
Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting. <br/><br />
* <b>Heartbreak (29) </b><br/><br />
Thin face right of Catfish Rising. Climb the direct face. An easier version may exist using slopers on the right.<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>The Art of War (32) </b><br/><br />
Right of Pocket Rocket (#18 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
<br />
=== Blackbeards Cave ===<br />
* <b>Dark Angel (30) </b><br/><br />
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Xses (24) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).<br/><br />
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.<br />
* <b>Unnamed (25/26) </b><br/><br />
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).<br/><br />
FA Marijus Smigelskis.</div>Xmod