Air Time 23 ****
Air Time 23 ****
This route is just right of Yellowwood Crack and the outstanding feature is the large overhang on the 5th pitch. The overhang is climbed with nothing less that perfect hand jambs and is well protected with cams.
Pitch 1 20 45m.
Start at the small cairn and scramble 5 metres to the overlap. Step up onto the cantilevered block and place a bomber green alien. Balance up to the rail and move left to climb up the face. Continue up the more or less obvious line to stance with Extra Time.
Pitch 2 20 45m
Climb up over dodgy flakes to a rail. Step left and climb up easily for a few meters. Place a good cam or two and do a crank up to a sloping hold and move left and up to the overhang. Climb diagonally up to the right to below another overhang. Rail under this on dodgy shattered rock to exit on the left. (Extra Time exits it on the right.) Climb the reachy dihedral to a stance.
Pitch 3 20m 15
Walk left and climb the easy right facing corner to a ledge. Walk left past the starts of Fine Time and Extra Time 3rd pitches and then continue left to a stance in a cave by crouching along a narrow ledge.
Pitch 4 30m 21
Climb up the left slanting chimney crack (good pro) until you are able to swing round onto the face. Climb bold moves up and right to the arete. There is a spike of rock which you can place a sling for pro. Climb easily up the face to a decent ledge and stance.
Pitch 5 25m 23
Climb easily up to the overhang and place some good cams. (Bear in mind that your second will curse you if you place them too deep!) Turn the overhang on perfect hand jambs. Place a small cam on the right to keep the ropes from jambing in the crack at the lip. Continue up the corner to a large sloping stance.
Pitch 6 25m 19
Step left and climb an impeccable recess to the "walk-off" ledge.
Pitch 7 30m 21
Climb up onto the blocks on the right and with an awkward start climb the cracks to a ledge. Place a large cam and turn the overhang with a reach crank. Continue easily to the large ledge system.
Pitch 8 45m 16
Climb the grey weather rib just to the right of the gully until one can step across to the left wall. Continue on easy weathered grips to the top.
Gear. Standard rack. No RP's needed. For convenience double up on 1/4, 1/2, 1, 1.5 inch cams.
Descent. Head left to the Timerity abseil.
FA: C Edelstein, D Steyn, M Versfeld and W Le Roux January 2016