Difference between revisions of "Bad Kloof"

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(Crags in Bad Kloof)
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>> Back to [[Montagu]] main page
 
>> Back to [[Montagu]] main page
 +
  
 
=How to get there=
 
=How to get there=
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meeul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meeul to Avalon Springs.
+
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.
 +
 
  
 
=Fees, Permits, Etc=
 
=Fees, Permits, Etc=
 
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof.  A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.
 
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof.  A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.
 +
  
 
= Bad Kloof Climbing Map =
 
= Bad Kloof Climbing Map =
Line 29: Line 32:
  
  
= Crags in Bad Kloof =
+
== The Penthouse ==
 +
As seen from upriver looking downriver.
 +
[[File:Waterworld_3.jpg|800px]]
  
  
== The Penthouse ==
+
The Penthouse Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|<Project>
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|BB. C Martinengo.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Pet of the Month
 +
|27/7b+
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Samson. 1997.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|Groping in the Dark
 +
|24/7a
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
 +
|
 +
|}
  
  
Line 39: Line 78:
 
Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.  
 
Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.  
  
*'''Waterworld History'''
+
'''Waterworld History'''
 
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds.  Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today.  Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment.   
 
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds.  Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today.  Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment.   
 
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
 
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
 
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base!  In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)
 
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base!  In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)
  
[[Image:waterworld_topo_image.jpg|Waterworld Topo]]
+
[[File:Waterworld_4.jpg|800px]]
  
*'''WaterworldRoute List'''
+
Waterworld Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 91: Line 129:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|5.  
 
|5.  
|Simply Irresistable
+
|Simply Irresistible
 
|27/7b+  
 
|27/7b+  
 
|5 Bolts  
 
|5 Bolts  
Line 98: Line 136:
 
|(Branches left)  
 
|(Branches left)  
 
|-
 
|-
|5.b
+
|6.
 
|The Singularity  
 
|The Singularity  
 
|29/7c+  
 
|29/7c+  
Line 106: Line 144:
 
|(veers right)  
 
|(veers right)  
 
|-
 
|-
|6.  
+
|7.  
 
|Firestarter!  
 
|Firestarter!  
 
|29/7c+
 
|29/7c+
Line 114: Line 152:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|7.  
+
|8.  
 
|My Route Down By The River
 
|My Route Down By The River
 
|31/8a+
 
|31/8a+
Line 122: Line 160:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|8.  
+
|9.  
 
|Chongalolo  
 
|Chongalolo  
|Project
+
|33/8b+ (proposed)
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
|BB: Matt Bush.
+
|BB: Matt Bush. FA Cody Roth. 2013
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|9.  
+
|10.  
 
|Twist And Crawl
 
|Twist And Crawl
 
|28/7c
 
|28/7c
Line 138: Line 176:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|10.  
+
|11.  
 
|The Mission
 
|The Mission
 
|24/7a
 
|24/7a
Line 146: Line 184:
 
|This is the original route at Waterworld.
 
|This is the original route at Waterworld.
 
|-
 
|-
|11.  
+
|12.  
 
|Sidewinder
 
|Sidewinder
 
|24/7a
 
|24/7a
Line 154: Line 192:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|12.  
+
|13.  
 
|Creepy Crawly
 
|Creepy Crawly
 
|20/6a+
 
|20/6a+
Line 162: Line 200:
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
|}
 
  
 
== Peanut Gallery ==
 
== Peanut Gallery ==
 +
Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags.
 +
[[File:Peanut_b.JPG|600px]]
  
*'''Peanut Gallery Route List'''
+
Routes LEFT to Right.  
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. Routes LEFT to Right.  
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 195: Line 233:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|3.
 
|3.
| <unknown>
+
|Duende
|31/8a+
+
|32/8b
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
|FA. <unknown>
+
|FA. Matt Bush.
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
|}
Line 205: Line 243:
  
 
== Lion Said ==
 
== Lion Said ==
 +
As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.
  
*'''Lion Said Route List'''
+
Lion Said Routes From Left to Right.  
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' From Left to Right. As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.
+
 
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 261: Line 298:
  
  
== Sloth ==
+
== Sloth Crag ==
 +
Sloth Crag Routes from Left to Right
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Sunshine Reggae
 +
|15/5b
 +
|9 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground.
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|One For The Money
 +
|17/5c
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown 2002.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|Rattle and Hum
 +
|24/7a
 +
|5 bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|Beautiful Day
 +
|25/7a+
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Orton. 2002
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|Sloth
 +
|25/7a+
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Samson. 1996
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|If I Go It will Be Double
 +
|24/7a
 +
|14 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|If I Stay There Will Be Trouble 23 [9 Bolts] ends at mid chains.
 +
|-
 +
|7.
 +
|Throw The Chicken
 +
|9/4
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|8.
 +
|Mediocre Youth
 +
|21/6b+
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. M Smigelskis
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|9.
 +
|Two For The Show
 +
|17/5c
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|10.
 +
|Vision Thing
 +
|23/6c+
 +
|12 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2003
 +
|
 +
|}
  
  
 
== Supertubes ==
 
== Supertubes ==
 
 
Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base
 
Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base
 
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu.  The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat).  This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.
 
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu.  The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat).  This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.
  
[[File:Supertubes.jpg||Supertubes Crag in Badkloof, Montagu]]
+
[[File:Supertubes1.JPG|800px]]
 
+
  
*'''Supertubes Route List'''
+
Supertubes Routes from Left to Right.  
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right.  
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 372: Line 497:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|12.
 
|12.
|Wipe Out
+
|Wipe-Out
|30/8a
+
|31/8a+
 
|5 Bolts
 
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
Line 412: Line 537:
  
 
== Pipeline ==
 
== Pipeline ==
 
+
There are only 4 routes here (the two remaining projects should prove to be VERY HARD. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. It is possible to abseil using the 2 abseil bolts, but you're really better off walking. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end.  
*'''Pipeline Route List'''
+
Routes LEFT to Right.  
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.  
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 426: Line 550:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|1.
| <Open Project>
+
|Aura
|
+
|32/8b
|
+
|? Bolts
|
+
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB by Guy Holwill in 1996. FA. Matt Bush  2013.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 
|2.
 
|2.
| <Open Project>
+
|Miss Behaving
|
+
|33/8b+
|
+
|? Bolts
|
+
|
+
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB by Sean Maasch in 1996. FA. Sasha DiGiulian 2013.
 +
||
 
|-
 
|-
 
|3.
 
|3.
Line 459: Line 583:
  
  
== South Park ==
+
<gallery>
 +
<!-- Place any pictures from this crag below.  Add a picture by typing File:imagename.extension  -->
  
*'''South Park Route List'''
+
File:Sasha_digiulian_bad_kloof_montagu_02.jpg|Sasha DiGiulian on Miss Behaving (33/8b+) at The Pipeline in Bad Kloof, Montagu.  Photo by Justin Lawson
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. Routes LEFT to Right.  
+
 
 +
<!-- Do not remove the end gallery code.-->
 +
</gallery>
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== South Park ==
 +
The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace.  
 +
South Park Routes LEFT to Right.  
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 489: Line 621:
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
|}
 +
  
 
== The Palace ==
 
== The Palace ==
*'''The Palace Route List'''
+
The Palace Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 533: Line 665:
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
|<unknown>
+
|BB&FA. S Brown. 2010
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
Line 635: Line 767:
  
 
== The Swamp ==
 
== The Swamp ==
 
+
Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.
*'''The Swamp Route List'''
+
The Swamp Routes from Left to Right.  
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right. Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 699: Line 830:
  
 
== Playground ==
 
== Playground ==
 
+
Small crag right of The Swamp.
*'''Playground Route List'''
+
Playground Routes LEFT to Right.  
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes LEFT to Right. Small crag right of The Swamp.
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 779: Line 909:
  
 
== Uriah Heep ==
 
== Uriah Heep ==
 
+
Uriah Heep Routes from Left to Right
*'''Uriah Heep Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 859: Line 987:
  
 
== The Arete ==
 
== The Arete ==
 +
On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Savage Me
 +
|24/7a
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Downing. 1994
 +
|
 +
|}
  
  
 
== Berlin Wall ==
 
== Berlin Wall ==
 +
This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs.
  
*'''Berlin Wall Route List'''
+
Berlin Wall Routes from LEFT to right.  
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. Routes from LEFT to right.  
+
 
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 932: Line 1,078:
 
|BB. Stuart Brown
 
|BB. Stuart Brown
 
|}
 
|}
 +
  
 
== Worlds Apart ==
 
== Worlds Apart ==
 +
Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade.
  
== Jurrasic Park ==
+
Worlds Apart Routes from LEFT to right.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Reflections
 +
|25/7a+
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. R Suter. 1995
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Project
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|BB. R Suter
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|Delete Button
 +
|26/7b
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Colenso. 1993
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|Yankee Rose
 +
|29/7c+
 +
|9 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Colenso. 1992
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|Voices
 +
|24/7a
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Colenso. 1991.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|Daze of Thunder
 +
|28/7c
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1991.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|7.
 +
|Rise of the Machines/ Natures Way Project.
 +
|32/8b
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|<Open>
 +
|ROTM opened (C Martinengo) on glue holds that have subsequently perished.
 +
|-
 +
|8.
 +
|Whispering Echo
 +
|10/4
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|9.
 +
|Little Jack Horner
 +
|15/5b
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|10.
 +
|Kojak
 +
|18/6a
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|11.
 +
|Rolling Stones
 +
|24/7a
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. M Jäger. 1992.
 +
|Retro bolted by S Brown
 +
|-
 +
|12.
 +
|Sukmeov
 +
|22/6c
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. D Gawlowski. 1994.
 +
|
 +
|}
  
*'''Jurrasic Park Route List'''
 
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.
 
  
 +
== Jurrasic Park ==
 +
Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade.
 +
 +
Jurrasic Park Routes from LEFT to right.
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 955: Line 1,211:
 
|7 Bolts
 
|7 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|FA. Jamson. 1995.
+
|FA. J Samson. 1995.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
Line 983: Line 1,239:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|5.
 
|5.
|Masawattee
+
|Mazawattee
 
|35/8c+
 
|35/8c+
 
|
 
|
Line 1,001: Line 1,257:
  
 
== The Laundry ==
 
== The Laundry ==
 +
Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park.
  
*'''The Laundry Route List'''
+
The Laundry Routes from LEFT to right.  
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park. Routes from LEFT to right.  
+
 
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 1,033: Line 1,288:
 
|3.
 
|3.
 
| <open project>
 
| <open project>
|
 
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
Line 1,051: Line 1,305:
  
 
== The Rage ==
 
== The Rage ==
 +
Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.
  
*'''The Rage Route List'''
+
The Rage Routes from Left to Right
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 1,066: Line 1,320:
 
|1.
 
|1.
 
|Bullet in the Head
 
|Bullet in the Head
 +
|31/8a+
 
|5 Bolts
 
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
Line 1,074: Line 1,329:
  
 
== The Hotel ==
 
== The Hotel ==
 +
Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.
  
*'''The Hotel Route List'''
+
The Hotel Routes from Left to Right
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 1,122: Line 1,377:
  
 
== The Bar ==
 
== The Bar ==
 +
The Bar Routes from Left to Right
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
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|Savanna
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|19/6a+
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|4 Bolts
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|
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|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
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|
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|-
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|2.
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|Captain Morgan
 +
|19/6a+
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|4 Bolts
 +
|
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|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
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|
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|}
  
 
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Revision as of 22:11, 27 August 2013

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How to get there

Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.


Fees, Permits, Etc

Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.


Bad Kloof Climbing Map

Loading map...


The Penthouse

As seen from upriver looking downriver. Waterworld 3.jpg


The Penthouse Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. <Project> BB. C Martinengo.
2. Pet of the Month 27/7b+ 5 Bolts FA. J Samson. 1997.
3. Groping in the Dark 24/7a 4 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.


Waterworld

Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.

Waterworld History Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable. In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)

Waterworld 4.jpg

Waterworld Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Monkey See Monkey Do 19/6a/6a+ 8 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
2. Arendsig 18/6a 8 Bolts ***** BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
3. Walk On By 23/6c+ 8 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
4. Some Would Say 26/7b 7 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.
5. Simply Irresistible 27/7b+ 5 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007. (Branches left)
6. The Singularity 29/7c+ 5 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010 (veers right)
7. Firestarter! 29/7c+ 9 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
8. My Route Down By The River 31/8a+ 10 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
9. Chongalolo 33/8b+ (proposed) BB: Matt Bush. FA Cody Roth. 2013
10. Twist And Crawl 28/7c 12 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
11. The Mission 24/7a 5 Bolts BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996. This is the original route at Waterworld.
12. Sidewinder 24/7a 6 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
13. Creepy Crawly 20/6a+ 6 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.

Peanut Gallery

Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. Peanut b.JPG

Routes LEFT to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Good Day for Basketball 22/6c 4 Bolts FA. R Holwill. 1997.
2. Finding Ningo 27/7b+ 5 Bolts FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
3. Duende 32/8b FA. Matt Bush.


Lion Said

As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.

Lion Said Routes From Left to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Short Cut 21/6b+ 3 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
2. Short, Sharp, Shock! 23/6c+ 3 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
3. Come Short 25/7a+ 3 Bolts BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002.
4. Hello Aloe 15/ 5b 13 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
5. Devil Speak 21/6b+ 9 Bolts FA. K Schumann. 1998.


Sloth Crag

Sloth Crag Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Sunshine Reggae 15/5b 9 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground.
2. One For The Money 17/5c 5 Bolts FA. S Brown 2002.
3. Rattle and Hum 24/7a 5 bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
4. Beautiful Day 25/7a+ 5 Bolts FA. J Orton. 2002
5. Sloth 25/7a+ 5 Bolts FA. J Samson. 1996
6. If I Go It will Be Double 24/7a 14 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. If I Stay There Will Be Trouble 23 [9 Bolts] ends at mid chains.
7. Throw The Chicken 9/4 5 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
8. Mediocre Youth 21/6b+ 4 Bolts FA. M Smigelskis
9. Two For The Show 17/5c 5 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002
10. Vision Thing 23/6c+ 12 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2003


Supertubes

Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.

Supertubes1.JPG

Supertubes Routes from Left to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Wax my Gun and have some Fun 21/6b+ 6 Bolts FA. T Hyde. 1999.
2. The Dumper 15/5b 7 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
3. Beach Break 19/6a+ 7 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
4. Whoa She Poopie 29/7c+ 10 Bolts BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Justin Hawkins. 1998.
5. Point Break 29/7c+ 10 Bolts FA. Jono Fisher. 1991.
6. Rad and Bad 29/7c+ 10 Bolts FA. Mike Roberts. 1991.
7. Surf and Turf 23/6c+ 7 Bolts <add FA>
8. Leap Tide 27/7b+ 9 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2004. Shares same chains as Thruster
9. Thruster 26/7b 7 Bolts FA. Sean Maasch. 1992.
10. Triple Stinger 26/7b 7 Bolts FA. Sean Maasch. 1991.
11. J-Bay 28/7c 9 Bolts FA. D Wiemar. 1997.
12. Wipe-Out 31/8a+ 5 Bolts FA. Clinton Martinengo. 2012.
13. Hypoxia 29/7c+ 7 Bolts FA. G Hoerhager. 1996.
14. First Wave 25/7a+ 5 Bolts FA. Jeremy Ward. 1998.
15. <unknown> <add details>


Pipeline

There are only 4 routes here (the two remaining projects should prove to be VERY HARD. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. It is possible to abseil using the 2 abseil bolts, but you're really better off walking. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Aura 32/8b ? Bolts BB by Guy Holwill in 1996. FA. Matt Bush 2013.
2. Miss Behaving 33/8b+ ? Bolts BB by Sean Maasch in 1996. FA. Sasha DiGiulian 2013.
3. <Open Project>
4. <Open Project>



South Park

The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. South Park Routes LEFT to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Cartman Gets an Anal Probe 7a/25 7 Bolts FA. C Bruton. 1999.
2. Who Killed Kenny? 7b+/27 5 Bolts FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.


The Palace

The Palace Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Bad Cop, No Donut 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. J Samson. 2004. Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs
2. Elegantly Wasted 26/7b 10 Bolts FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999.
3. S102 25/7a+ 10 Bolts FA. J Orton. 2004.
4. Icarus 23/6c+ BB&FA. S Brown. 2010
5. Lexi's Route 25/7a+ 7 Bolts <unknown>
6. Cyberpunk 25/7a+ 9 Bolts ***** FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
7. MoonaBoos 27/7b+ 10 Bolts FA. J Orton. 1999.
8. Shagadelic 23/6c+ 8 Bolts FA. J Orton. 2000
9. Burning Chrome 28/7c 14 Bolts FA. R Nattrass. 1995.
10. Judge Dredd 29/7c+ 13 Bolts FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
11. Strange Days 31/8a+ 5 Bolts FA. E Wiercx. 1997.
12. About Time 27/7b+ 12 Bolts FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
13. The Activist 30/8a 11 Bolts FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
14. The Neuromancer 23/6c+ 8 Bolts FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
15. Mad Max 21/6b+ 14 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. 13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
16. Psycho Ranger 20/6b 13 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. 15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.


The Swamp

Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings. The Swamp Routes from Left to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Gruff 7b/26 4 Bolts FA. S Bradshaw. 1995.
2. Route Do Me 7b+/27 4 Bolts FA. S Maasch. 1994.
3. Gluttony 7c+/29 4 Bolts FA. J Samson. 1996.
4. Where Eagles Dare 5c/16 7 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. On the slab.
5. There Lurks the Boogie-Man 5a/13 8 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2002. On the slab.
6. Disprin 25/7a+ 10 Bolts FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996. This route is above the last 2 routes.


Playground

Small crag right of The Swamp. Playground Routes LEFT to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Jungle Gym Junkie 5c/18 4 Bolts FA. M Gowans. 1993.
2. Jungle Jim 6a/19 4 Bolts FA. C Curson. 1995.
3. See Saw 4/15 3 Bolts FA. C Curson. 1995.
4. The Jester 6c+/24 3 Bolts FA. R Suter. 1992.
5. Party-on Wayne 7a/25 3 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993.
6. Jus Klup Ut 7b+/27 3 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993.
7. Powerplay 7a+/25 4 Bolts FA. E February. 1995.
8. Fun in the Sun 6b+/22 3 Bolts FA. M Gowans. 1994.


Uriah Heep

Uriah Heep Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Love Machine 6b+/22 6 Bolts FA. P McCann. 1998.
2. Stealin' 6b+/22 9 Bolts FA. G Hart. 1993.
3. Digital Bitch 7b/26 6 Bolts FA. P Becker. 1993.
4. Demons and Wizards 7b+/28 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1994.
5. Easy Living 7b/26 5 Bolts FA. D Pothier. 1993.
6. November Afternoon 6c/23 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993. Top jug broken off Jan 2013
7. July Morning 6b+/22 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993.
8. Firefly 6a/19 6 Bolts FA. P McCann. 1998.


The Arete

On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Savage Me 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. S Downing. 1994


Berlin Wall

This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs.

Berlin Wall Routes from LEFT to right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Minefield 6c/22 5 Bolts FA. M Jåger. 1992.
2. Vays und Meenz 7a/24 11 Bolts FA. M Jåger. 1992.
3. Streef Bogananoff 7a/24 8 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 2002.
4. Hot Toddy Bension 7c/28 7 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.
5. Brandenburg Gate 6b+/21 8 Bolts FA. M Jåger
6. Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27 27/7b+ 4 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.
7. <open project> BB. Stuart Brown


Worlds Apart

Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade.

Worlds Apart Routes from LEFT to right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Reflections 25/7a+ 6 Bolts FA. R Suter. 1995
2. Project BB. R Suter
3. Delete Button 26/7b 6 Bolts FA. J Colenso. 1993
4. Yankee Rose 29/7c+ 9 Bolts FA. J Colenso. 1992
5. Voices 24/7a 4 Bolts FA. J Colenso. 1991.
6. Daze of Thunder 28/7c 7 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1991.
7. Rise of the Machines/ Natures Way Project. 32/8b 7 Bolts <Open> ROTM opened (C Martinengo) on glue holds that have subsequently perished.
8. Whispering Echo 10/4 8 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2004.
9. Little Jack Horner 15/5b 8 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2004.
10. Kojak 18/6a 6 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2004.
11. Rolling Stones 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. M Jäger. 1992. Retro bolted by S Brown
12. Sukmeov 22/6c 7 Bolts FA. D Gawlowski. 1994.


Jurrasic Park

Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade.

Jurrasic Park Routes from LEFT to right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Against the Grain 7c/28 7 Bolts FA. J Samson. 1995.
2. Jabulani 7c/28 9 Bolts FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999
3. Big Bag Voodoo 5/17
4. <project>
5. Mazawattee 35/8c+ BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009.
6. Nugget Slab 18/6a 8 Bolts BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991. On slab opposing overhang.


The Laundry

Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park.

The Laundry Routes from LEFT to right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Super Blue 24/7a 5 Bolts FA. J Orton. 1998.
2. Stay Soft 26/7b 5 Bolts FA. S Downing. 1998.
3. <open project>
4. <open project>


The Rage

Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.

The Rage Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Bullet in the Head 31/8a+ 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1995. This route is manufactured.


The Hotel

Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.

The Hotel Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. The Key 27/7b+ 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.
2. The bellboys, The bellboys 26/7b 6 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997
3. U Like Jamin? 23/6c+ 6 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently.
4. Rim Service 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.


The Bar

The Bar Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Savanna 19/6a+ 4 Bolts FA. D Marshall. 2001.
2. Captain Morgan 19/6a+ 4 Bolts FA. D Marshall. 2001.

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