Difference between revisions of "Bad Kloof"

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>> Back to [[Montagu]] main page
 
>> Back to [[Montagu]] main page
 +
 +
=Online Topo=
 +
http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/montagu/bad-kloof/
 +
__NOTOC__
  
 
=How to get there=
 
=How to get there=
−
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office. Walk into Bad Kloof as you would if you were walking towards the Avalon Springs.  Follow the path until it crosses the river. The crag is at the river crossing on the south side of the kloof.
+
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.
 +
 
  
 
=Fees, Permits, Etc=
 
=Fees, Permits, Etc=
 
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof.  A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.
 
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof.  A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.
 +
  
 
= Bad Kloof Climbing Map =
 
= Bad Kloof Climbing Map =
−
<display_points type="satellite" height="500">
+
<display_points type="satellite" height="500" width="800">
 
-33.781209,  20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
 
-33.781209,  20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
 
-33.779165,  20.112353|Eyssenhuis
 
-33.779165,  20.112353|Eyssenhuis
Line 29: Line 35:
  
  
−
= Crags in Bad Kloof =
+
== The Penthouse ==
 +
[[File:Waterworld_3.jpg|600px|right]]
 +
As seen from upriver looking downriver.
  
−
== Berlin Wall ==
 
−
Berlin Wall Routes - This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap.
 
−
 
−
* Minefield 6b+/22
 
−
* Vays und Meenz 7a/24
 
−
* Streef Bogananoff 7a/24
 
−
* Hot Toddy Bension 7c/28
 
−
* Brandenburg Gate 6b/21
 
−
* Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27
 
−
 
−
== Jurrasic Park ==
 
−
Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade
 
−
 
−
* Against the Grain 7c/28
 
−
* Jabulani 7c/28
 
−
* Big Bag Voodoo 5/17
 
−
Masawattee 35/8c+ The long line with the slab behind it - [Mazawattee (35/8c+) goes down!] Bolted by Sean Maasch. FA: Adam Ondra 27 July 2009
 
−
 
−
== Laundry ==
 
−
 
−
== Lion Said ==
 
−
Lion Said Routes - from L to R As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort of crag on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth.
 
  
−
* Hello Aloe 5-/15
+
The Penthouse Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
−
* Devil Speak 6b+/21
+
−
* Short Cut 6b+/21
+
−
* Short, Sharp, Shock!! 6c+/23
+
−
* Come Short 7a+/25
+
−
 
+
−
== Peanut Gallery ==
+
−
 
+
−
*'''Peanut Gallery Route List'''
+
−
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. Routes LEFT to Right.  
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 75: Line 52:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|1.
−
|Good Day for Basketball
+
|<Project>
−
|22/6c
+
−
|4 Bolts
+
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. R Holwill. 1997.
+
|
 +
|
 +
|BB. C Martinengo.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 
|2.
 
|2.
−
|Finding Ningo
+
|Pet of the Month
 
|27/7b+
 
|27/7b+
 
|5 Bolts
 
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
+
|FA. J Samson. 1997.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|3.
+
|3.  
−
| <unknown>
+
|Groping in the Dark
−
|31/8a+
+
|24/7a
 +
|4 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
−
|FA. <unknown>
+
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
|}
  
−
== Pipeline ==
+
 
 +
== Waterworld ==
 +
 
 +
[[File:Waterworld_4.jpg|600px|right|Waterworld]]
 +
Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.
 +
 
 +
'''Waterworld History'''
 +
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds.  Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today.  Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. 
 +
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
 +
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base!  In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)
 +
 
  
  
−
*'''Pipeline Route List'''
+
Waterworld Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
−
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 115: Line 101:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|1.
−
| <Open Project>
+
|Monkey See Monkey Do
 +
|19/6a/6a+
 +
|8 Bolts
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
 
|
 
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Arendsig
 +
|18/6a
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|*****
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
 
|
 
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|Walk On By
 +
|23/6c+
 +
|8 Bolts
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|2.
+
|4.  
−
| <Open Project>
+
|Some Would Say
 +
|26/7b
 +
|7 Bolts
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.
 
|
 
|
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|Simply Irresistible
 +
|27/7b+
 +
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007.
 +
|(Branches left)
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|The Singularity
 +
|29/7c+
 +
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010
 +
|(veers right)
 +
|-
 +
|7.
 +
|Firestarter!
 +
|29/7c+
 +
|9 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|3.
+
|8.  
−
| <Open Project>
+
|My Route Down By The River
 +
|31/8a+
 +
|10 Bolts
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
 
|
 
|
 +
|-
 +
|9.
 +
|Chongalolo
 +
|33/8b+ (proposed)
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB: Matt Bush. FA Cody Roth. 2013
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|4.
+
|10.  
−
| <Open Project>
+
|Twist And Crawl
 +
|28/7c
 +
|12 Bolts
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
 
|
 
|
 +
|-
 +
|11.
 +
|The Mission
 +
|24/7a
 +
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996.
 +
|This is the original route at Waterworld.
 +
|-
 +
|12.
 +
|Sidewinder
 +
|24/7a
 +
|6 Bolts
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|13.
 +
|Creepy Crawly
 +
|20/6a+
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
|}
  
−
== Playground ==
+
== Peanut Gallery ==
 +
[[File:Peanut_b.JPG|400px|right|Penut Gallery]]
 +
Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags.
 +
 
  
−
*'''Playground Route List'''
+
Routes LEFT to Right.  
−
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes LEFT to Right. Small crag right of The Swamp.
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 162: Line 222:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|1.
−
|Jungle Gym Junkie
+
|Good Day for Basketball
−
|5c/18
+
|22/6c
 
|4 Bolts
 
|4 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. M Gowans. 1993.
+
|FA. R Holwill. 1997.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 
|2.
 
|2.
−
|Jungle Jim
+
|Finding Ningo
−
|6a/19
+
|27/7b+
−
|4 Bolts
+
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
+
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 
|3.
 
|3.
−
|See Saw
+
|Duende
−
|4/15
+
|32/8b
−
|3 Bolts
+
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
 
 
|
 
|
 +
|FA. Matt Bush.
 +
|
 +
|}
 +
 +
 +
== Lion Said ==
 +
As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.
 +
 +
Lion Said Routes From Left to Right.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
−
|4.
+
|#
−
|The Jester
+
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
−
|6c+/24
+
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Short Cut
 +
|21/6b+
 
|3 Bolts
 
|3 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. R Suter. 1992.
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|5.
+
|2.
−
|Party-on Wayne
+
|Short, Sharp, Shock!
−
|7a/25
+
|23/6c+
 
|3 Bolts
 
|3 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|6.
+
|3.
−
|Jus Klup Ut
+
|Come Short
−
|7b+/27
+
|25/7a+
 
|3 Bolts
 
|3 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
+
|BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|7.
+
|4.
−
|Powerplay
+
|Hello Aloe
−
|7a+/25
+
|15/ 5b
−
|4 Bolts
+
|13 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. E February. 1995.
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|8.
+
|5.
−
|Fun in the Sun
+
|Devil Speak
−
|6b+/22
+
|21/6b+
−
|3 Bolts  
+
|9 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. M Gowans. 1994.
+
|FA. K Schumann. 1998.
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
|}
−
 
−
== The Rage ==
 
  
  
−
*'''The Rage Route List'''
+
== Sloth Crag ==
−
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.
+
Sloth Crag Routes from Left to Right
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 242: Line 316:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|1.
−
|Bullet in the Head
+
|Sunshine Reggae
 +
|15/5b
 +
|9 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground.
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|One For The Money
 +
|17/5c
 
|5 Bolts
 
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. G Holwill. 1995.
+
|FA. S Brown 2002.
−
|This route is manufactured.
+
|
−
|}
+
−
 
+
−
== Sloth ==
+
−
 
+
−
== South Park ==
+
−
 
+
−
 
+
−
*'''South Park Route List'''
+
−
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. Routes LEFT to Right.  
+
−
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
−
|#
+
|3.
−
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|Rattle and Hum
−
|GRADE
+
|24/7a
−
|# BOLTS
+
|5 bolts
−
|RATING
+
|
−
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
−
|DESCRIPTION
+
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|1.
+
|4.
−
|Cartman Gets an Anal Probe
+
|Beautiful Day
−
|7a/25
+
|25/7a+
−
|7 Bolts
+
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. C Bruton. 1999.
+
|FA. J Orton. 2002
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|2.
+
|5.
−
|Who Killed Kenny?
+
|Sloth
−
|7b+/27
+
|25/7a+
 
|5 Bolts
 
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.
+
|FA. J Samson. 1996
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|If I Go It will Be Double
 +
|24/7a
 +
|14 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|If I Stay There Will Be Trouble 23 [9 Bolts] ends at mid chains.
 +
|-
 +
|7.
 +
|Throw The Chicken
 +
|9/4
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|8.
 +
|Mediocre Youth
 +
|21/6b+
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. M Smigelskis
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|9.
 +
|Two For The Show
 +
|17/5c
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|10.
 +
|Vision Thing
 +
|23/6c+
 +
|12 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2003
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
|}
 +
  
 
== Supertubes ==
 
== Supertubes ==
 +
[[File:Supertubes1.JPG|600px|right|Super Tubes]]
 
Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base
 
Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base
 
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu.  The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat).  This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.
 
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu.  The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat).  This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.
  
−
[[File:Supertubes.jpg||Supertubes Crag in Badkloof, Montagu]]
 
  
  
−
Supertubes Routes from Left to Right
+
Supertubes Routes from Left to Right.
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|#
 
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 
|GRADE
 
|GRADE
−
|# OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS)
+
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 
|DESCRIPTION
 
|DESCRIPTION
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|1.
 
|Wax my Gun and have some Fun
 
|Wax my Gun and have some Fun
−
|21
+
|21/6b+
 
|6 Bolts
 
|6 Bolts
−
|T Hyde 1999
+
|
−
|route is on the far left of the crag
+
|FA. T Hyde. 1999.
 +
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|2.
 
|The Dumper
 
|The Dumper
−
|15
+
|15/5b
 
|7 Bolts
 
|7 Bolts
−
|Stuart Brown 2004
+
|
 +
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|3.
 
|Beach Break
 
|Beach Break
−
|19  
+
|19/6a+
 
|7 Bolts
 
|7 Bolts
−
|Stuart Brown 2004
+
|
 +
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|4.
 
|Whoa She Poopie
 
|Whoa She Poopie
−
|29  
+
|29/7c+
 
|10 Bolts
 
|10 Bolts
−
|BB Sean Maasch / OB Justin Hawkins 1998
+
|
−
|Originally graded 30/8a
+
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Justin Hawkins. 1998.
 +
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|5.
 
|Point Break
 
|Point Break
−
|30
+
|29/7c+
 
|10 Bolts
 
|10 Bolts
−
|Jono Fisher 1991
+
|
−
|Originally graded 29
+
|FA. Jono Fisher. 1991.
 +
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|6.
 
|Rad and Bad  
 
|Rad and Bad  
−
|29
+
|29/7c+
 
|10 Bolts
 
|10 Bolts
−
|Mike Roberts 1991
+
|
 +
|FA. Mike Roberts. 1991.
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|7.
 
|Surf and Turf
 
|Surf and Turf
−
|23
+
|23/6c+
 
|7 Bolts
 
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 
| <add FA>
 
| <add FA>
 +
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|8.
 
|Leap Tide
 
|Leap Tide
−
|27  
+
|27/7b+
 
|9 Bolts
 
|9 Bolts
−
|Stuart Brown 2004
+
|
 +
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
 
|Shares same chains as Thruster
 
|Shares same chains as Thruster
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|9.
 
|Thruster
 
|Thruster
−
|26
+
|26/7b
 
|7 Bolts
 
|7 Bolts
−
|Sean Maasch 1992
+
|
−
|one of the most climbed routes in Montagu
+
|FA. Sean Maasch. 1992.
 +
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|10.
 
|Triple Stinger  
 
|Triple Stinger  
−
|26
+
|26/7b
 
|7 Bolts
 
|7 Bolts
−
|Sean Maasch 1991
+
|
 +
|FA. Sean Maasch. 1991.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|11.
 
|J-Bay  
 
|J-Bay  
−
|28
+
|28/7c
 
|9 Bolts
 
|9 Bolts
−
|D Wiemar 1997
+
|
 +
|FA. D Wiemar. 1997.
 +
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
| <unknown>
+
|12.
−
| 31
+
|Wipe-Out
−
| 5 Bolts
+
|31/8a+
−
| Clinton Martinengo
+
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. Clinton Martinengo. 2012.
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|13.
 
|Hypoxia  
 
|Hypoxia  
−
|29  
+
|29/7c+
 
|7 Bolts
 
|7 Bolts
−
|G Hoerhager 1996
+
|
−
|the roof route over the bench
+
|FA. G Hoerhager. 1996.
 +
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|14.
 
|First Wave
 
|First Wave
−
|24/25  
+
|25/7a+
 
|5 Bolts
 
|5 Bolts
−
|Jeremy Ward 1998
+
|
 +
|FA. Jeremy Ward. 1998.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|15.
 
| <unknown>
 
| <unknown>
 
| <add details>
 
| <add details>
 +
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
Line 393: Line 541:
 
</gallery>
 
</gallery>
  
−
== The Hotel ==
 
  
−
*'''The Hotel Route List'''
+
== Pipeline ==
−
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.
+
There are only 4 routes here (the two remaining projects should prove to be VERY HARD.  To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful.  It is possible to abseil using the 2 abseil bolts, but you're really better off walking.  You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end.
 +
Routes LEFT to Right.  
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 408: Line 556:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|1.
−
|The Key
+
|Aura
−
|27/7b+
+
|32/8b
−
|5 Bolts
+
|? Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
+
|BB by Guy Holwill in 1996. FA. Matt Bush  2013.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 
|2.
 
|2.
−
|The bellboys, The bellboys
+
|Miss Behaving
−
|26/7b
+
|33/8b+
−
|6 Bolts
+
|? Bolts
−
|
+
−
|FA. G Holwill. 1997
+
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB by Sean Maasch in 1996. FA. Sasha DiGiulian 2013.
 +
||
 
|-
 
|-
 
|3.
 
|3.
−
|U Like Jamin?
+
| <Open Project>
−
|23/6c+
+
|
−
|6 Bolts
+
|
 +
|
 +
|
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 
−
|Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently.
 
 
|-
 
|-
 
|4.
 
|4.
−
|Rim Service
+
| <Open Project>
−
|24/7a
+
|
−
|6 Bolts
+
|
 +
|
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
 
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
|}
  
−
== The Swamp ==
 
  
−
*'''The Swamp Route List'''
+
<gallery>
−
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right. Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.
+
<!-- Place any pictures from this crag below. Add a picture by typing File:imagename.extension  -->
 +
 
 +
File:Sasha_digiulian_bad_kloof_montagu_02.jpg|Sasha DiGiulian on Miss Behaving (33/8b+) at The Pipeline in Bad Kloof, Montagu.  Photo by Justin Lawson
 +
 
 +
<!-- Do not remove the end gallery code.-->
 +
</gallery>
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== South Park ==
 +
The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace.
 +
South Park Routes LEFT to Right.  
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 455: Line 612:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|1.
−
|Gruff
+
|Cartman Gets an Anal Probe
−
|7b/26
+
|7a/25
−
|4 Bolts
+
|7 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. S Bradshaw. 1995.
+
|FA. C Bruton. 1999.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 
|2.
 
|2.
−
|Route Do Me
+
|Who Killed Kenny?
 
|7b+/27
 
|7b+/27
−
|4 Bolts
+
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|FA. S Maasch. 1994.
+
|FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.
 
|
 
|
−
|-
 
−
|3.
 
−
|Gluttony
 
−
|7c+/29
 
−
|4 Bolts
 
−
|
 
−
|FA. J Samson. 1996.
 
−
|
 
−
|-
 
−
|4.
 
−
|Where Eagles Dare
 
−
|5c/16
 
−
|7 Bolts
 
−
|
 
−
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 
−
|On the slab.
 
−
|-
 
−
|5.
 
−
|There Lurks the Boogie-Man
 
−
|5a/13
 
−
|8 Bolts
 
−
|
 
−
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2002.
 
−
|On the slab.
 
−
|-
 
−
|6.
 
−
|Disprin
 
−
|25/7a+
 
−
|10 Bolts
 
−
|
 
−
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996.
 
−
|This route is above the last 2 routes.
 
 
|}
 
|}
 +
  
 
== The Palace ==
 
== The Palace ==
−
*'''The Palace Route List'''
+
The Palace Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
−
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 542: Line 667:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|4.
 
|4.
 +
|Icarus
 +
|23/6c+
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|BB&FA. S Brown. 2010
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 
|Lexi's Route
 
|Lexi's Route
 
|25/7a+
 
|25/7a+
Line 549: Line 682:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|5.
+
|6.
 
|Cyberpunk
 
|Cyberpunk
 
|25/7a+
 
|25/7a+
Line 557: Line 690:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|6.
+
|7.
 
|MoonaBoos
 
|MoonaBoos
 
|27/7b+
 
|27/7b+
Line 565: Line 698:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|7.
+
|8.
 
|Shagadelic
 
|Shagadelic
 
|23/6c+
 
|23/6c+
Line 573: Line 706:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|8.
+
|9.
 
|Burning Chrome
 
|Burning Chrome
 
|28/7c
 
|28/7c
Line 581: Line 714:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|9.
+
|10.
 
|Judge Dredd
 
|Judge Dredd
 
|29/7c+
 
|29/7c+
Line 589: Line 722:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|10.
+
|11.
 
|Strange Days
 
|Strange Days
 
|31/8a+
 
|31/8a+
Line 597: Line 730:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|11.
+
|12.
 
|About Time
 
|About Time
 
|27/7b+
 
|27/7b+
Line 605: Line 738:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|12.
+
|13.
 
|The Activist
 
|The Activist
 
|30/8a
 
|30/8a
Line 613: Line 746:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|13.
+
|14.
 
|The Neuromancer
 
|The Neuromancer
 
|23/6c+
 
|23/6c+
Line 621: Line 754:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|14.
+
|15.
 
|Mad Max
 
|Mad Max
 
|21/6b+
 
|21/6b+
Line 629: Line 762:
 
|13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.  
 
|13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|15.
+
|16.
 
|Psycho Ranger
 
|Psycho Ranger
 
|20/6b
 
|20/6b
Line 638: Line 771:
 
|}
 
|}
  
−
== Uriah Heep ==
 
  
−
*'''Uriah Heep Route List'''
+
== The Swamp ==
−
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
+
Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.
 +
The Swamp Routes from Left to Right.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Gruff
 +
|7b/26
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Bradshaw. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Route Do Me
 +
|7b+/27
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Maasch. 1994.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|Gluttony
 +
|7c+/29
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Samson. 1996.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|Where Eagles Dare
 +
|5c/16
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|On the slab.
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|There Lurks the Boogie-Man
 +
|5a/13
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2002.
 +
|On the slab.
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|Disprin
 +
|25/7a+
 +
|10 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996.
 +
|This route is above the last 2 routes.
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== Playground ==
 +
Small crag right of The Swamp.
 +
Playground Routes LEFT to Right.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Jungle Gym Junkie
 +
|5c/18
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. M Gowans. 1993.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Jungle Jim
 +
|6a/19
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|See Saw
 +
|4/15
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|The Jester
 +
|6c+/24
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. R Suter. 1992.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|Party-on Wayne
 +
|7a/25
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|Jus Klup Ut
 +
|7b+/27
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|7.
 +
|Powerplay
 +
|7a+/25
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. E February. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|8.
 +
|Fun in the Sun
 +
|6b+/22
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. M Gowans. 1994.
 +
|
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== Uriah Heep ==
 +
Uriah Heep Routes from Left to Right
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 717: Line 991:
 
|}
 
|}
  
−
== Waterworld ==
 
−
Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.
 
  
−
*'''Waterworld History'''
+
== The Arete ==
−
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds.  Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today.  Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. 
+
On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep.
−
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
−
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base!  In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)
+
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Savage Me
 +
|24/7a
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Downing. 1994
 +
|
 +
|}
  
−
[[Image:waterworld_topo_image.jpg|Waterworld Topo]]
 
  
−
*'''WaterworldRoute List'''
+
== Berlin Wall ==
−
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
+
This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs.
 +
 
 +
Berlin Wall Routes from LEFT to right.  
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 740: Line 1,029:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|1.
−
|Monkey See Monkey Do
+
|Minefield
−
|19/6a/6a+
+
|6c/22
−
|8 Bolts
+
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
+
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|2.  
+
|2.
−
|Arendsig
+
|Vays und Meenz
−
|18/6a
+
|7a/24
 +
|11 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|Streef Bogananoff
 +
|7a/24
 
|8 Bolts
 
|8 Bolts
−
|*****
+
|
−
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
+
|FA. G Holwill. 2002.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|3.  
+
|4.
−
|Walk On By
+
|Hot Toddy Bension
−
|23/6c+  
+
|7c/28
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|Brandenburg Gate
 +
|6b+/21
 
|8 Bolts
 
|8 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
+
|FA. M Jåger
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|4.  
+
|6.
−
|Some Would Say
+
|Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27
 +
|27/7b+
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|7.
 +
| <open project>
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|BB. Stuart Brown
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== Worlds Apart ==
 +
Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade.
 +
 
 +
Worlds Apart Routes from LEFT to right.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Reflections
 +
|25/7a+
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. R Suter. 1995
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Project
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|BB. R Suter
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|Delete Button
 
|26/7b
 
|26/7b
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Colenso. 1993
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|Yankee Rose
 +
|29/7c+
 +
|9 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Colenso. 1992
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|Voices
 +
|24/7a
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Colenso. 1991.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|Daze of Thunder
 +
|28/7c
 
|7 Bolts
 
|7 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.  
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1991.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|5.  
+
|7.
−
|Simply Irresistable
+
|Rise of the Machines/ Natures Way Project.
−
|27/7b+
+
|32/8b
−
|5 Bolts  
+
|7 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007.
+
|<Open>
−
|(Branches left)  
+
|ROTM opened (C Martinengo) on glue holds that have subsequently perished.
 
|-
 
|-
−
|5.b
+
|8.
−
|The Singularity
+
|Whispering Echo
−
|29/7c+
+
|10/4
−
|5 Bolts
+
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
 
|
 
|
−
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010
 
−
|(veers right)
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
|6.  
+
|9.
−
|Firestarter!
+
|Little Jack Horner
−
|29/7c+
+
|15/5b
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|10.
 +
|Kojak
 +
|18/6a
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|11.
 +
|Rolling Stones
 +
|24/7a
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. M Jäger. 1992.
 +
|Retro bolted by S Brown
 +
|-
 +
|12.
 +
|Sukmeov
 +
|22/6c
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. D Gawlowski. 1994.
 +
|
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== Jurrasic Park ==
 +
Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade.
 +
 
 +
Jurrasic Park Routes from LEFT to right.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Against the Grain
 +
|7c/28
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Samson. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Jabulani
 +
|7c/28
 
|9 Bolts
 
|9 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|7.  
+
|3.
−
|My Route Down By The River
+
|Big Bag Voodoo
−
|31/8a+
+
|5/17
−
|10 Bolts
+
|
 +
|
 
|
 
|
−
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
 
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|8.  
+
|4.
−
|Chongalolo
+
| <project>
−
|Project
+
|
 +
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
−
|BB: Matt Bush.
 
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|9.  
+
|5.
−
|Twist And Crawl
+
|Mazawattee
−
|28/7c
+
|35/8c+
−
|12 Bolts
+
 
|
 
|
−
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
+
|
 +
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|10.  
+
|6.
−
|The Mission
+
|Nugget Slab
 +
|18/6a
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991.
 +
|On slab opposing overhang.
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== The Laundry ==
 +
Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park.
 +
 
 +
The Laundry Routes from LEFT to right.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Super Blue
 
|24/7a
 
|24/7a
 
|5 Bolts
 
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996.
+
|FA. J Orton. 1998.
−
|This is the original route at Waterworld.
+
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|11.  
+
|2.
−
|Sidewinder
+
|Stay Soft
−
|24/7a
+
|26/7b
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Downing. 1998.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
| <open project>
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
| <open project>
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== The Rage ==
 +
Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.
 +
 
 +
The Rage Routes from Left to Right
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Bullet in the Head
 +
|31/8a+
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1995.
 +
|This route is manufactured.
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== The Hotel ==
 +
Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.
 +
 
 +
The Hotel Routes from Left to Right
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|The Key
 +
|27/7b+
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|The bellboys, The bellboys
 +
|26/7b
 
|6 Bolts
 
|6 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1997
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|12.  
+
|3.
−
|Creepy Crawly
+
|U Like Jamin?
−
|20/6a+
+
|23/6c+
 
|6 Bolts
 
|6 Bolts
 
|
 
|
−
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently.
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|Rim Service
 +
|24/7a
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
|}
  
 +
 +
== The Bar ==
 +
The Bar Routes from Left to Right
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Savanna
 +
|19/6a+
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Captain Morgan
 +
|19/6a+
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
 +
|
 +
|}
  
 
>> Back to [[Montagu]] page
 
>> Back to [[Montagu]] page

Latest revision as of 14:24, 21 January 2014

>> Back to Montagu main page

Online Topo

http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/montagu/bad-kloof/


How to get there

Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.


Fees, Permits, Etc

Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.


Bad Kloof Climbing Map

<display_points type="satellite" height="500" width="800"> -33.781209, 20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint -33.779165, 20.112353|Eyssenhuis -33.776248, 20.116096|Waterworld -33.775864, 20.116799|Peanut Gallery -33.775253, 20.117633|Sloth -33.774655, 20.118121|Supertubes -33.774854, 20.117176|Lion Said -33.776000, 20.114984|The Penthouse -33.773043, 20.120942|The Palace -33.773276, 20.120052|South Park -33.774591, 20.119560|The Pipeline -33.771811, 20.118502|The Swamp -33.771814, 20.117901|The Playground -33.769928, 20.114097|Berlin Wall -33.769408, 20.115578|Jurassic Park -33.769769, 20.115271|Worlds Apart -33.771515, 20.116188|Uriah Heap </display_points>


The Penthouse

Waterworld 3.jpg

As seen from upriver looking downriver.


The Penthouse Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. <Project> BB. C Martinengo.
2. Pet of the Month 27/7b+ 5 Bolts FA. J Samson. 1997.
3. Groping in the Dark 24/7a 4 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.


Waterworld

Waterworld

Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.

Waterworld History Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable. In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)


Waterworld Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Monkey See Monkey Do 19/6a/6a+ 8 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
2. Arendsig 18/6a 8 Bolts ***** BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
3. Walk On By 23/6c+ 8 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
4. Some Would Say 26/7b 7 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.
5. Simply Irresistible 27/7b+ 5 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007. (Branches left)
6. The Singularity 29/7c+ 5 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010 (veers right)
7. Firestarter! 29/7c+ 9 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
8. My Route Down By The River 31/8a+ 10 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
9. Chongalolo 33/8b+ (proposed) BB: Matt Bush. FA Cody Roth. 2013
10. Twist And Crawl 28/7c 12 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
11. The Mission 24/7a 5 Bolts BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996. This is the original route at Waterworld.
12. Sidewinder 24/7a 6 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
13. Creepy Crawly 20/6a+ 6 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.

Peanut Gallery

Penut Gallery

Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags.


Routes LEFT to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Good Day for Basketball 22/6c 4 Bolts FA. R Holwill. 1997.
2. Finding Ningo 27/7b+ 5 Bolts FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
3. Duende 32/8b FA. Matt Bush.


Lion Said

As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.

Lion Said Routes From Left to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Short Cut 21/6b+ 3 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
2. Short, Sharp, Shock! 23/6c+ 3 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
3. Come Short 25/7a+ 3 Bolts BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002.
4. Hello Aloe 15/ 5b 13 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
5. Devil Speak 21/6b+ 9 Bolts FA. K Schumann. 1998.


Sloth Crag

Sloth Crag Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Sunshine Reggae 15/5b 9 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground.
2. One For The Money 17/5c 5 Bolts FA. S Brown 2002.
3. Rattle and Hum 24/7a 5 bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
4. Beautiful Day 25/7a+ 5 Bolts FA. J Orton. 2002
5. Sloth 25/7a+ 5 Bolts FA. J Samson. 1996
6. If I Go It will Be Double 24/7a 14 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. If I Stay There Will Be Trouble 23 [9 Bolts] ends at mid chains.
7. Throw The Chicken 9/4 5 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
8. Mediocre Youth 21/6b+ 4 Bolts FA. M Smigelskis
9. Two For The Show 17/5c 5 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002
10. Vision Thing 23/6c+ 12 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2003


Supertubes

Super Tubes

Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.


Supertubes Routes from Left to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Wax my Gun and have some Fun 21/6b+ 6 Bolts FA. T Hyde. 1999.
2. The Dumper 15/5b 7 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
3. Beach Break 19/6a+ 7 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
4. Whoa She Poopie 29/7c+ 10 Bolts BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Justin Hawkins. 1998.
5. Point Break 29/7c+ 10 Bolts FA. Jono Fisher. 1991.
6. Rad and Bad 29/7c+ 10 Bolts FA. Mike Roberts. 1991.
7. Surf and Turf 23/6c+ 7 Bolts <add FA>
8. Leap Tide 27/7b+ 9 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2004. Shares same chains as Thruster
9. Thruster 26/7b 7 Bolts FA. Sean Maasch. 1992.
10. Triple Stinger 26/7b 7 Bolts FA. Sean Maasch. 1991.
11. J-Bay 28/7c 9 Bolts FA. D Wiemar. 1997.
12. Wipe-Out 31/8a+ 5 Bolts FA. Clinton Martinengo. 2012.
13. Hypoxia 29/7c+ 7 Bolts FA. G Hoerhager. 1996.
14. First Wave 25/7a+ 5 Bolts FA. Jeremy Ward. 1998.
15. <unknown> <add details>
  • Stu leaptide.jpg


Pipeline

There are only 4 routes here (the two remaining projects should prove to be VERY HARD. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. It is possible to abseil using the 2 abseil bolts, but you're really better off walking. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Aura 32/8b ? Bolts BB by Guy Holwill in 1996. FA. Matt Bush 2013.
2. Miss Behaving 33/8b+ ? Bolts BB by Sean Maasch in 1996. FA. Sasha DiGiulian 2013.
3. <Open Project>
4. <Open Project>


  • Sasha DiGiulian on Miss Behaving (33/8b+) at The Pipeline in Bad Kloof, Montagu. Photo by Justin Lawson


South Park

The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. South Park Routes LEFT to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Cartman Gets an Anal Probe 7a/25 7 Bolts FA. C Bruton. 1999.
2. Who Killed Kenny? 7b+/27 5 Bolts FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.


The Palace

The Palace Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Bad Cop, No Donut 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. J Samson. 2004. Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs
2. Elegantly Wasted 26/7b 10 Bolts FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999.
3. S102 25/7a+ 10 Bolts FA. J Orton. 2004.
4. Icarus 23/6c+ BB&FA. S Brown. 2010
5. Lexi's Route 25/7a+ 7 Bolts <unknown>
6. Cyberpunk 25/7a+ 9 Bolts ***** FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
7. MoonaBoos 27/7b+ 10 Bolts FA. J Orton. 1999.
8. Shagadelic 23/6c+ 8 Bolts FA. J Orton. 2000
9. Burning Chrome 28/7c 14 Bolts FA. R Nattrass. 1995.
10. Judge Dredd 29/7c+ 13 Bolts FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
11. Strange Days 31/8a+ 5 Bolts FA. E Wiercx. 1997.
12. About Time 27/7b+ 12 Bolts FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
13. The Activist 30/8a 11 Bolts FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
14. The Neuromancer 23/6c+ 8 Bolts FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
15. Mad Max 21/6b+ 14 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. 13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
16. Psycho Ranger 20/6b 13 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. 15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.


The Swamp

Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings. The Swamp Routes from Left to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Gruff 7b/26 4 Bolts FA. S Bradshaw. 1995.
2. Route Do Me 7b+/27 4 Bolts FA. S Maasch. 1994.
3. Gluttony 7c+/29 4 Bolts FA. J Samson. 1996.
4. Where Eagles Dare 5c/16 7 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. On the slab.
5. There Lurks the Boogie-Man 5a/13 8 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2002. On the slab.
6. Disprin 25/7a+ 10 Bolts FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996. This route is above the last 2 routes.


Playground

Small crag right of The Swamp. Playground Routes LEFT to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Jungle Gym Junkie 5c/18 4 Bolts FA. M Gowans. 1993.
2. Jungle Jim 6a/19 4 Bolts FA. C Curson. 1995.
3. See Saw 4/15 3 Bolts FA. C Curson. 1995.
4. The Jester 6c+/24 3 Bolts FA. R Suter. 1992.
5. Party-on Wayne 7a/25 3 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993.
6. Jus Klup Ut 7b+/27 3 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993.
7. Powerplay 7a+/25 4 Bolts FA. E February. 1995.
8. Fun in the Sun 6b+/22 3 Bolts FA. M Gowans. 1994.


Uriah Heep

Uriah Heep Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Love Machine 6b+/22 6 Bolts FA. P McCann. 1998.
2. Stealin' 6b+/22 9 Bolts FA. G Hart. 1993.
3. Digital Bitch 7b/26 6 Bolts FA. P Becker. 1993.
4. Demons and Wizards 7b+/28 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1994.
5. Easy Living 7b/26 5 Bolts FA. D Pothier. 1993.
6. November Afternoon 6c/23 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993. Top jug broken off Jan 2013
7. July Morning 6b+/22 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993.
8. Firefly 6a/19 6 Bolts FA. P McCann. 1998.


The Arete

On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Savage Me 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. S Downing. 1994


Berlin Wall

This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs.

Berlin Wall Routes from LEFT to right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Minefield 6c/22 5 Bolts FA. M Jåger. 1992.
2. Vays und Meenz 7a/24 11 Bolts FA. M Jåger. 1992.
3. Streef Bogananoff 7a/24 8 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 2002.
4. Hot Toddy Bension 7c/28 7 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.
5. Brandenburg Gate 6b+/21 8 Bolts FA. M Jåger
6. Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27 27/7b+ 4 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.
7. <open project> BB. Stuart Brown


Worlds Apart

Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade.

Worlds Apart Routes from LEFT to right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Reflections 25/7a+ 6 Bolts FA. R Suter. 1995
2. Project BB. R Suter
3. Delete Button 26/7b 6 Bolts FA. J Colenso. 1993
4. Yankee Rose 29/7c+ 9 Bolts FA. J Colenso. 1992
5. Voices 24/7a 4 Bolts FA. J Colenso. 1991.
6. Daze of Thunder 28/7c 7 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1991.
7. Rise of the Machines/ Natures Way Project. 32/8b 7 Bolts <Open> ROTM opened (C Martinengo) on glue holds that have subsequently perished.
8. Whispering Echo 10/4 8 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2004.
9. Little Jack Horner 15/5b 8 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2004.
10. Kojak 18/6a 6 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2004.
11. Rolling Stones 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. M Jäger. 1992. Retro bolted by S Brown
12. Sukmeov 22/6c 7 Bolts FA. D Gawlowski. 1994.


Jurrasic Park

Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade.

Jurrasic Park Routes from LEFT to right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Against the Grain 7c/28 7 Bolts FA. J Samson. 1995.
2. Jabulani 7c/28 9 Bolts FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999
3. Big Bag Voodoo 5/17
4. <project>
5. Mazawattee 35/8c+ BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009.
6. Nugget Slab 18/6a 8 Bolts BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991. On slab opposing overhang.


The Laundry

Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park.

The Laundry Routes from LEFT to right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Super Blue 24/7a 5 Bolts FA. J Orton. 1998.
2. Stay Soft 26/7b 5 Bolts FA. S Downing. 1998.
3. <open project>
4. <open project>


The Rage

Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.

The Rage Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Bullet in the Head 31/8a+ 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1995. This route is manufactured.


The Hotel

Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.

The Hotel Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. The Key 27/7b+ 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.
2. The bellboys, The bellboys 26/7b 6 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997
3. U Like Jamin? 23/6c+ 6 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently.
4. Rim Service 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.


The Bar

The Bar Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Savanna 19/6a+ 4 Bolts FA. D Marshall. 2001.
2. Captain Morgan 19/6a+ 4 Bolts FA. D Marshall. 2001.

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