Difference between revisions of "Bad Kloof"
(→Peanut Gallery) |
|||
(41 intermediate revisions by 3 users not shown) | |||
Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
>> Back to [[Montagu]] main page | >> Back to [[Montagu]] main page | ||
+ | |||
+ | =Online Topo= | ||
+ | http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/montagu/bad-kloof/ | ||
+ | __NOTOC__ | ||
=How to get there= | =How to get there= | ||
− | Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office. | + | Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs. |
+ | |||
=Fees, Permits, Etc= | =Fees, Permits, Etc= | ||
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office. | Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office. | ||
+ | |||
= Bad Kloof Climbing Map = | = Bad Kloof Climbing Map = | ||
− | <display_points type="satellite" height="500"> | + | <display_points type="satellite" height="500" width="800"> |
-33.781209, 20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint | -33.781209, 20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint | ||
-33.779165, 20.112353|Eyssenhuis | -33.779165, 20.112353|Eyssenhuis | ||
Line 29: | Line 35: | ||
− | = | + | == The Penthouse == |
+ | [[File:Waterworld_3.jpg|600px|right]] | ||
+ | As seen from upriver looking downriver. | ||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | + | The Penthouse Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park) | |
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 75: | Line 52: | ||
|- | |- | ||
|1. | |1. | ||
− | | | + | |<Project> |
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
| | | | ||
− | | | + | | |
+ | | | ||
+ | |BB. C Martinengo. | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
|2. | |2. | ||
− | | | + | |Pet of the Month |
|27/7b+ | |27/7b+ | ||
|5 Bolts | |5 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
− | |FA. | + | |FA. J Samson. 1997. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | |3. | + | |3. |
− | | | + | |Groping in the Dark |
− | | | + | |24/7a |
+ | |4 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
− | + | |FA. G Holwill. 1997. | |
− | |FA. | + | |
| | | | ||
|} | |} | ||
− | == | + | |
+ | == Waterworld == | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[File:Waterworld_4.jpg|600px|right|Waterworld]] | ||
+ | Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul. | ||
+ | |||
+ | '''Waterworld History''' | ||
+ | Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. | ||
+ | In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable. | ||
+ | In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/) | ||
+ | |||
− | + | Waterworld Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park) | |
− | + | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 115: | Line 101: | ||
|- | |- | ||
|1. | |1. | ||
− | | | + | |Monkey See Monkey Do |
+ | |19/6a/6a+ | ||
+ | |8 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009. | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |2. | ||
+ | |Arendsig | ||
+ | |18/6a | ||
+ | |8 Bolts | ||
+ | |***** | ||
+ | |BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007. | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |3. | ||
+ | |Walk On By | ||
+ | |23/6c+ | ||
+ | |8 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007. | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |4. |
− | | | + | |Some Would Say |
+ | |26/7b | ||
+ | |7 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013. | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |5. | ||
+ | |Simply Irresistible | ||
+ | |27/7b+ | ||
+ | |5 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007. | ||
+ | |(Branches left) | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |6. | ||
+ | |The Singularity | ||
+ | |29/7c+ | ||
+ | |5 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010 | ||
+ | |(veers right) | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |7. | ||
+ | |Firestarter! | ||
+ | |29/7c+ | ||
+ | |9 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |8. |
− | | | + | |My Route Down By The River |
+ | |31/8a+ | ||
+ | |10 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |9. | ||
+ | |Chongalolo | ||
+ | |33/8b+ (proposed) | ||
| | | | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |BB: Matt Bush. FA Cody Roth. 2013 | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |10. |
− | | | + | |Twist And Crawl |
+ | |28/7c | ||
+ | |12 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009. | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |11. | ||
+ | |The Mission | ||
+ | |24/7a | ||
+ | |5 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996. | ||
+ | |This is the original route at Waterworld. | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |12. | ||
+ | |Sidewinder | ||
+ | |24/7a | ||
+ | |6 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |13. | ||
+ | |Creepy Crawly | ||
+ | |20/6a+ | ||
+ | |6 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
| | | | ||
|} | |} | ||
− | == | + | == Peanut Gallery == |
+ | [[File:Peanut_b.JPG|400px|right|Penut Gallery]] | ||
+ | Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. | ||
+ | |||
− | + | Routes LEFT to Right. | |
− | + | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 162: | Line 222: | ||
|- | |- | ||
|1. | |1. | ||
− | | | + | |Good Day for Basketball |
− | | | + | |22/6c |
|4 Bolts | |4 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
− | |FA. | + | |FA. R Holwill. 1997. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
|2. | |2. | ||
− | | | + | |Finding Ningo |
− | | | + | |27/7b+ |
− | | | + | |5 Bolts |
| | | | ||
− | |FA. C | + | |FA. C Martinengo. 2004. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
|3. | |3. | ||
− | | | + | |Duende |
− | | | + | |32/8b |
− | + | ||
| | | | ||
− | |||
| | | | ||
+ | |FA. Matt Bush. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |} | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | == Lion Said == | ||
+ | As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Lion Said Routes From Left to Right. | ||
+ | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |# |
− | | | + | |ROUTE NAME / AREA |
− | | | + | |GRADE |
+ | |# BOLTS | ||
+ | |RATING | ||
+ | |BOLTING/OPENED INFO | ||
+ | |DESCRIPTION | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |1. | ||
+ | |Short Cut | ||
+ | |21/6b+ | ||
|3 Bolts | |3 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
− | |FA. | + | |FA. S Brown. 2002. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |2. |
− | | | + | |Short, Sharp, Shock! |
− | | | + | |23/6c+ |
|3 Bolts | |3 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
− | |FA. | + | |FA. S Brown. 2002. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |3. |
− | | | + | |Come Short |
− | | | + | |25/7a+ |
|3 Bolts | |3 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
− | |FA. | + | |BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |4. |
− | | | + | |Hello Aloe |
− | | | + | |15/ 5b |
− | | | + | |13 Bolts |
| | | | ||
− | |FA. | + | |FA. S Brown. 2002. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |5. |
− | | | + | |Devil Speak |
− | |6b+ | + | |21/6b+ |
− | | | + | |9 Bolts |
| | | | ||
− | |FA. | + | |FA. K Schumann. 1998. |
| | | | ||
|} | |} | ||
− | |||
− | |||
− | + | == Sloth Crag == | |
− | + | Sloth Crag Routes from Left to Right | |
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 242: | Line 316: | ||
|- | |- | ||
|1. | |1. | ||
− | | | + | |Sunshine Reggae |
+ | |15/5b | ||
+ | |9 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
+ | |P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground. | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |2. | ||
+ | |One For The Money | ||
+ | |17/5c | ||
|5 Bolts | |5 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
− | |FA. | + | |FA. S Brown 2002. |
− | + | | | |
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |3. |
− | | | + | |Rattle and Hum |
− | | | + | |24/7a |
− | | | + | |5 bolts |
− | | | + | | |
− | | | + | |FA. S Brown. 2002. |
− | | | + | | |
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |4. |
− | | | + | |Beautiful Day |
− | | | + | |25/7a+ |
− | | | + | |5 Bolts |
| | | | ||
− | |FA. | + | |FA. J Orton. 2002 |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |5. |
− | | | + | |Sloth |
− | | | + | |25/7a+ |
|5 Bolts | |5 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
− | |FA. S | + | |FA. J Samson. 1996 |
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |6. | ||
+ | |If I Go It will Be Double | ||
+ | |24/7a | ||
+ | |14 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
+ | |If I Stay There Will Be Trouble 23 [9 Bolts] ends at mid chains. | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |7. | ||
+ | |Throw The Chicken | ||
+ | |9/4 | ||
+ | |5 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |8. | ||
+ | |Mediocre Youth | ||
+ | |21/6b+ | ||
+ | |4 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. M Smigelskis | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |9. | ||
+ | |Two For The Show | ||
+ | |17/5c | ||
+ | |5 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. S Brown. 2002 | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |10. | ||
+ | |Vision Thing | ||
+ | |23/6c+ | ||
+ | |12 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. S Brown. 2003 | ||
| | | | ||
|} | |} | ||
+ | |||
== Supertubes == | == Supertubes == | ||
+ | [[File:Supertubes1.JPG|600px|right|Super Tubes]] | ||
Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base | Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base | ||
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly. | Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly. | ||
− | |||
− | Supertubes Routes from Left to Right | + | Supertubes Routes from Left to Right. |
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
+ | |# | ||
|ROUTE NAME / AREA | |ROUTE NAME / AREA | ||
|GRADE | |GRADE | ||
− | |# | + | |# BOLTS |
+ | |RATING | ||
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO | |BOLTING/OPENED INFO | ||
|DESCRIPTION | |DESCRIPTION | ||
|- | |- | ||
+ | |1. | ||
|Wax my Gun and have some Fun | |Wax my Gun and have some Fun | ||
− | |21 | + | |21/6b+ |
|6 Bolts | |6 Bolts | ||
− | |T Hyde 1999 | + | | |
− | | | + | |FA. T Hyde. 1999. |
+ | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
+ | |2. | ||
|The Dumper | |The Dumper | ||
− | |15 | + | |15/5b |
|7 Bolts | |7 Bolts | ||
− | |Stuart Brown 2004 | + | | |
+ | |FA. Stuart Brown. 2004. | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
+ | |3. | ||
|Beach Break | |Beach Break | ||
− | |19 | + | |19/6a+ |
|7 Bolts | |7 Bolts | ||
− | |Stuart Brown 2004 | + | | |
+ | |FA. Stuart Brown. 2004. | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
+ | |4. | ||
|Whoa She Poopie | |Whoa She Poopie | ||
− | |29 | + | |29/7c+ |
|10 Bolts | |10 Bolts | ||
− | |BB Sean Maasch | + | | |
− | | | + | |BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Justin Hawkins. 1998. |
+ | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
+ | |5. | ||
|Point Break | |Point Break | ||
− | | | + | |29/7c+ |
|10 Bolts | |10 Bolts | ||
− | |Jono Fisher 1991 | + | | |
− | | | + | |FA. Jono Fisher. 1991. |
+ | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
+ | |6. | ||
|Rad and Bad | |Rad and Bad | ||
− | |29 | + | |29/7c+ |
|10 Bolts | |10 Bolts | ||
− | |Mike Roberts 1991 | + | | |
+ | |FA. Mike Roberts. 1991. | ||
|- | |- | ||
+ | |7. | ||
|Surf and Turf | |Surf and Turf | ||
− | |23 | + | |23/6c+ |
|7 Bolts | |7 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
| <add FA> | | <add FA> | ||
+ | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
+ | |8. | ||
|Leap Tide | |Leap Tide | ||
− | |27 | + | |27/7b+ |
|9 Bolts | |9 Bolts | ||
− | |Stuart Brown 2004 | + | | |
+ | |FA. Stuart Brown. 2004. | ||
|Shares same chains as Thruster | |Shares same chains as Thruster | ||
|- | |- | ||
+ | |9. | ||
|Thruster | |Thruster | ||
− | |26 | + | |26/7b |
|7 Bolts | |7 Bolts | ||
− | |Sean Maasch 1992 | + | | |
− | | | + | |FA. Sean Maasch. 1992. |
+ | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
+ | |10. | ||
|Triple Stinger | |Triple Stinger | ||
− | |26 | + | |26/7b |
|7 Bolts | |7 Bolts | ||
− | |Sean Maasch 1991 | + | | |
+ | |FA. Sean Maasch. 1991. | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
+ | |11. | ||
|J-Bay | |J-Bay | ||
− | |28 | + | |28/7c |
|9 Bolts | |9 Bolts | ||
− | |D Wiemar 1997 | + | | |
+ | |FA. D Wiemar. 1997. | ||
+ | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |12. |
− | | 31 | + | |Wipe-Out |
− | | 5 Bolts | + | |31/8a+ |
− | | Clinton Martinengo | + | |5 Bolts |
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. Clinton Martinengo. 2012. | ||
|- | |- | ||
+ | |13. | ||
|Hypoxia | |Hypoxia | ||
− | |29 | + | |29/7c+ |
|7 Bolts | |7 Bolts | ||
− | |G Hoerhager 1996 | + | | |
− | | | + | |FA. G Hoerhager. 1996. |
+ | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
+ | |14. | ||
|First Wave | |First Wave | ||
− | | | + | |25/7a+ |
|5 Bolts | |5 Bolts | ||
− | |Jeremy Ward 1998 | + | | |
+ | |FA. Jeremy Ward. 1998. | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
+ | |15. | ||
| <unknown> | | <unknown> | ||
| <add details> | | <add details> | ||
+ | | | ||
| | | | ||
| | | | ||
Line 393: | Line 541: | ||
</gallery> | </gallery> | ||
− | |||
− | + | == Pipeline == | |
− | '' | + | There are only 4 routes here (the two remaining projects should prove to be VERY HARD. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. It is possible to abseil using the 2 abseil bolts, but you're really better off walking. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. |
+ | Routes LEFT to Right. | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 408: | Line 556: | ||
|- | |- | ||
|1. | |1. | ||
− | | | + | |Aura |
− | | | + | |32/8b |
− | | | + | |? Bolts |
| | | | ||
− | | | + | |BB by Guy Holwill in 1996. FA. Matt Bush 2013. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
|2. | |2. | ||
− | | | + | |Miss Behaving |
− | | | + | |33/8b+ |
− | | | + | |? Bolts |
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |BB by Sean Maasch in 1996. FA. Sasha DiGiulian 2013. | ||
+ | || | ||
|- | |- | ||
|3. | |3. | ||
− | | | + | | <Open Project> |
− | | | + | | |
− | | | + | | |
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
| | | | ||
− | |||
− | |||
|- | |- | ||
|4. | |4. | ||
− | | | + | | <Open Project> |
− | | | + | | |
− | | | + | | |
+ | | | ||
| | | | ||
− | |||
| | | | ||
|} | |} | ||
− | |||
− | + | <gallery> | |
− | + | <!-- Place any pictures from this crag below. Add a picture by typing File:imagename.extension --> | |
+ | |||
+ | File:Sasha_digiulian_bad_kloof_montagu_02.jpg|Sasha DiGiulian on Miss Behaving (33/8b+) at The Pipeline in Bad Kloof, Montagu. Photo by Justin Lawson | ||
+ | |||
+ | <!-- Do not remove the end gallery code.--> | ||
+ | </gallery> | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | == South Park == | ||
+ | The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. | ||
+ | South Park Routes LEFT to Right. | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 455: | Line 612: | ||
|- | |- | ||
|1. | |1. | ||
− | | | + | |Cartman Gets an Anal Probe |
− | | | + | |7a/25 |
− | | | + | |7 Bolts |
| | | | ||
− | |FA. | + | |FA. C Bruton. 1999. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
|2. | |2. | ||
− | | | + | |Who Killed Kenny? |
|7b+/27 | |7b+/27 | ||
− | | | + | |5 Bolts |
| | | | ||
− | |FA. S | + | |FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000. |
| | | | ||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
|} | |} | ||
+ | |||
== The Palace == | == The Palace == | ||
− | + | The Palace Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right | |
− | + | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 542: | Line 667: | ||
|- | |- | ||
|4. | |4. | ||
+ | |Icarus | ||
+ | |23/6c+ | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |BB&FA. S Brown. 2010 | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |5. | ||
|Lexi's Route | |Lexi's Route | ||
|25/7a+ | |25/7a+ | ||
Line 549: | Line 682: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |6. |
|Cyberpunk | |Cyberpunk | ||
|25/7a+ | |25/7a+ | ||
Line 557: | Line 690: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |7. |
|MoonaBoos | |MoonaBoos | ||
|27/7b+ | |27/7b+ | ||
Line 565: | Line 698: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |8. |
|Shagadelic | |Shagadelic | ||
|23/6c+ | |23/6c+ | ||
Line 573: | Line 706: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |9. |
|Burning Chrome | |Burning Chrome | ||
|28/7c | |28/7c | ||
Line 581: | Line 714: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |10. |
|Judge Dredd | |Judge Dredd | ||
|29/7c+ | |29/7c+ | ||
Line 589: | Line 722: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |11. |
|Strange Days | |Strange Days | ||
|31/8a+ | |31/8a+ | ||
Line 597: | Line 730: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |12. |
|About Time | |About Time | ||
|27/7b+ | |27/7b+ | ||
Line 605: | Line 738: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |13. |
|The Activist | |The Activist | ||
|30/8a | |30/8a | ||
Line 613: | Line 746: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |14. |
|The Neuromancer | |The Neuromancer | ||
|23/6c+ | |23/6c+ | ||
Line 621: | Line 754: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |15. |
|Mad Max | |Mad Max | ||
|21/6b+ | |21/6b+ | ||
Line 629: | Line 762: | ||
|13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches. | |13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches. | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |16. |
|Psycho Ranger | |Psycho Ranger | ||
|20/6b | |20/6b | ||
Line 638: | Line 771: | ||
|} | |} | ||
− | |||
− | + | == The Swamp == | |
− | + | Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings. | |
+ | The Swamp Routes from Left to Right. | ||
+ | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |# | ||
+ | |ROUTE NAME / AREA | ||
+ | |GRADE | ||
+ | |# BOLTS | ||
+ | |RATING | ||
+ | |BOLTING/OPENED INFO | ||
+ | |DESCRIPTION | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |1. | ||
+ | |Gruff | ||
+ | |7b/26 | ||
+ | |4 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. S Bradshaw. 1995. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |2. | ||
+ | |Route Do Me | ||
+ | |7b+/27 | ||
+ | |4 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. S Maasch. 1994. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |3. | ||
+ | |Gluttony | ||
+ | |7c+/29 | ||
+ | |4 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. J Samson. 1996. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |4. | ||
+ | |Where Eagles Dare | ||
+ | |5c/16 | ||
+ | |7 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
+ | |On the slab. | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |5. | ||
+ | |There Lurks the Boogie-Man | ||
+ | |5a/13 | ||
+ | |8 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. Stuart Brown. 2002. | ||
+ | |On the slab. | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |6. | ||
+ | |Disprin | ||
+ | |25/7a+ | ||
+ | |10 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996. | ||
+ | |This route is above the last 2 routes. | ||
+ | |} | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | == Playground == | ||
+ | Small crag right of The Swamp. | ||
+ | Playground Routes LEFT to Right. | ||
+ | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |# | ||
+ | |ROUTE NAME / AREA | ||
+ | |GRADE | ||
+ | |# BOLTS | ||
+ | |RATING | ||
+ | |BOLTING/OPENED INFO | ||
+ | |DESCRIPTION | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |1. | ||
+ | |Jungle Gym Junkie | ||
+ | |5c/18 | ||
+ | |4 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. M Gowans. 1993. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |2. | ||
+ | |Jungle Jim | ||
+ | |6a/19 | ||
+ | |4 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. C Curson. 1995. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |3. | ||
+ | |See Saw | ||
+ | |4/15 | ||
+ | |3 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. C Curson. 1995. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |4. | ||
+ | |The Jester | ||
+ | |6c+/24 | ||
+ | |3 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. R Suter. 1992. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |5. | ||
+ | |Party-on Wayne | ||
+ | |7a/25 | ||
+ | |3 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. G Holwill. 1993. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |6. | ||
+ | |Jus Klup Ut | ||
+ | |7b+/27 | ||
+ | |3 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. G Holwill. 1993. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |7. | ||
+ | |Powerplay | ||
+ | |7a+/25 | ||
+ | |4 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. E February. 1995. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |8. | ||
+ | |Fun in the Sun | ||
+ | |6b+/22 | ||
+ | |3 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. M Gowans. 1994. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |} | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | == Uriah Heep == | ||
+ | Uriah Heep Routes from Left to Right | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 717: | Line 991: | ||
|} | |} | ||
− | |||
− | |||
− | + | == The Arete == | |
− | + | On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep. | |
− | + | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | |
− | + | |- | |
+ | |# | ||
+ | |ROUTE NAME / AREA | ||
+ | |GRADE | ||
+ | |# BOLTS | ||
+ | |RATING | ||
+ | |BOLTING/OPENED INFO | ||
+ | |DESCRIPTION | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |1. | ||
+ | |Savage Me | ||
+ | |24/7a | ||
+ | |6 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. S Downing. 1994 | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |} | ||
− | |||
− | + | == Berlin Wall == | |
− | + | This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. | |
+ | |||
+ | Berlin Wall Routes from LEFT to right. | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 740: | Line 1,029: | ||
|- | |- | ||
|1. | |1. | ||
− | | | + | |Minefield |
− | | | + | |6c/22 |
− | | | + | |5 Bolts |
| | | | ||
− | | | + | |FA. M Jåger. 1992. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | |2. | + | |2. |
− | | | + | |Vays und Meenz |
− | | | + | |7a/24 |
+ | |11 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. M Jåger. 1992. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |3. | ||
+ | |Streef Bogananoff | ||
+ | |7a/24 | ||
|8 Bolts | |8 Bolts | ||
− | | | + | | |
− | | | + | |FA. G Holwill. 2002. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |4. |
− | | | + | |Hot Toddy Bension |
− | | | + | |7c/28 |
+ | |7 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. G Holwill. 1997. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |5. | ||
+ | |Brandenburg Gate | ||
+ | |6b+/21 | ||
|8 Bolts | |8 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
− | | | + | |FA. M Jåger |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | |4. | + | |6. |
− | | | + | |Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27 |
+ | |27/7b+ | ||
+ | |4 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. G Holwill. 1997. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |7. | ||
+ | | <open project> | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |BB. Stuart Brown | ||
+ | |} | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | == Worlds Apart == | ||
+ | Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Worlds Apart Routes from LEFT to right. | ||
+ | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |# | ||
+ | |ROUTE NAME / AREA | ||
+ | |GRADE | ||
+ | |# BOLTS | ||
+ | |RATING | ||
+ | |BOLTING/OPENED INFO | ||
+ | |DESCRIPTION | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |1. | ||
+ | |Reflections | ||
+ | |25/7a+ | ||
+ | |6 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. R Suter. 1995 | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |2. | ||
+ | |Project | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |BB. R Suter | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |3. | ||
+ | |Delete Button | ||
|26/7b | |26/7b | ||
+ | |6 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. J Colenso. 1993 | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |4. | ||
+ | |Yankee Rose | ||
+ | |29/7c+ | ||
+ | |9 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. J Colenso. 1992 | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |5. | ||
+ | |Voices | ||
+ | |24/7a | ||
+ | |4 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. J Colenso. 1991. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |6. | ||
+ | |Daze of Thunder | ||
+ | |28/7c | ||
|7 Bolts | |7 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
− | | | + | |FA. G Holwill. 1991. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |7. |
− | | | + | |Rise of the Machines/ Natures Way Project. |
− | | | + | |32/8b |
− | | | + | |7 Bolts |
| | | | ||
− | | | + | |<Open> |
− | |( | + | |ROTM opened (C Martinengo) on glue holds that have subsequently perished. |
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |8. |
− | | | + | |Whispering Echo |
− | | | + | |10/4 |
− | | | + | |8 Bolts |
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. S Brown. 2004. | ||
| | | | ||
− | |||
− | |||
|- | |- | ||
− | |6. | + | |9. |
− | | | + | |Little Jack Horner |
− | | | + | |15/5b |
+ | |8 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. S Brown. 2004. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |10. | ||
+ | |Kojak | ||
+ | |18/6a | ||
+ | |6 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. S Brown. 2004. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |11. | ||
+ | |Rolling Stones | ||
+ | |24/7a | ||
+ | |6 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. M Jäger. 1992. | ||
+ | |Retro bolted by S Brown | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |12. | ||
+ | |Sukmeov | ||
+ | |22/6c | ||
+ | |7 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. D Gawlowski. 1994. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |} | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | == Jurrasic Park == | ||
+ | Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Jurrasic Park Routes from LEFT to right. | ||
+ | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |# | ||
+ | |ROUTE NAME / AREA | ||
+ | |GRADE | ||
+ | |# BOLTS | ||
+ | |RATING | ||
+ | |BOLTING/OPENED INFO | ||
+ | |DESCRIPTION | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |1. | ||
+ | |Against the Grain | ||
+ | |7c/28 | ||
+ | |7 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. J Samson. 1995. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |2. | ||
+ | |Jabulani | ||
+ | |7c/28 | ||
|9 Bolts | |9 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
− | | | + | |FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999 |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |3. |
− | | | + | |Big Bag Voodoo |
− | | | + | |5/17 |
− | | | + | | |
+ | | | ||
| | | | ||
− | |||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |4. |
− | | | + | | <project> |
− | | | + | | |
+ | | | ||
| | | | ||
| | | | ||
− | |||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |5. |
− | | | + | |Mazawattee |
− | | | + | |35/8c+ |
− | + | ||
| | | | ||
− | |BB | + | | |
+ | |BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009. | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |6. |
− | |The | + | |Nugget Slab |
+ | |18/6a | ||
+ | |8 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991. | ||
+ | |On slab opposing overhang. | ||
+ | |} | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | == The Laundry == | ||
+ | Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park. | ||
+ | |||
+ | The Laundry Routes from LEFT to right. | ||
+ | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |# | ||
+ | |ROUTE NAME / AREA | ||
+ | |GRADE | ||
+ | |# BOLTS | ||
+ | |RATING | ||
+ | |BOLTING/OPENED INFO | ||
+ | |DESCRIPTION | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |1. | ||
+ | |Super Blue | ||
|24/7a | |24/7a | ||
|5 Bolts | |5 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
− | | | + | |FA. J Orton. 1998. |
− | | | + | | |
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |2. |
− | | | + | |Stay Soft |
− | | | + | |26/7b |
+ | |5 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. S Downing. 1998. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |3. | ||
+ | | <open project> | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |4. | ||
+ | | <open project> | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |} | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | == The Rage == | ||
+ | Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs. | ||
+ | |||
+ | The Rage Routes from Left to Right | ||
+ | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |# | ||
+ | |ROUTE NAME / AREA | ||
+ | |GRADE | ||
+ | |# BOLTS | ||
+ | |RATING | ||
+ | |BOLTING/OPENED INFO | ||
+ | |DESCRIPTION | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |1. | ||
+ | |Bullet in the Head | ||
+ | |31/8a+ | ||
+ | |5 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. G Holwill. 1995. | ||
+ | |This route is manufactured. | ||
+ | |} | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | == The Hotel == | ||
+ | Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel. | ||
+ | |||
+ | The Hotel Routes from Left to Right | ||
+ | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |# | ||
+ | |ROUTE NAME / AREA | ||
+ | |GRADE | ||
+ | |# BOLTS | ||
+ | |RATING | ||
+ | |BOLTING/OPENED INFO | ||
+ | |DESCRIPTION | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |1. | ||
+ | |The Key | ||
+ | |27/7b+ | ||
+ | |5 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. G Holwill. 1997. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |2. | ||
+ | |The bellboys, The bellboys | ||
+ | |26/7b | ||
|6 Bolts | |6 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
− | | | + | |FA. G Holwill. 1997 |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |3. |
− | | | + | |U Like Jamin? |
− | | | + | |23/6c+ |
|6 Bolts | |6 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
− | | | + | |FA. S Brown. 2002. |
+ | |Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently. | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |4. | ||
+ | |Rim Service | ||
+ | |24/7a | ||
+ | |6 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. G Holwill. 1997. | ||
| | | | ||
|} | |} | ||
+ | |||
+ | == The Bar == | ||
+ | The Bar Routes from Left to Right | ||
+ | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |# | ||
+ | |ROUTE NAME / AREA | ||
+ | |GRADE | ||
+ | |# BOLTS | ||
+ | |RATING | ||
+ | |BOLTING/OPENED INFO | ||
+ | |DESCRIPTION | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |1. | ||
+ | |Savanna | ||
+ | |19/6a+ | ||
+ | |4 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. D Marshall. 2001. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |2. | ||
+ | |Captain Morgan | ||
+ | |19/6a+ | ||
+ | |4 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |FA. D Marshall. 2001. | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |} | ||
>> Back to [[Montagu]] page | >> Back to [[Montagu]] page |
Revision as of 14:24, 21 January 2014
>> Back to Montagu main page
Online Topo
http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/montagu/bad-kloof/
How to get there
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.
Fees, Permits, Etc
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.
Bad Kloof Climbing Map
The Penthouse
As seen from upriver looking downriver.
The Penthouse Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | <Project> | BB. C Martinengo. | ||||
2. | Pet of the Month | 27/7b+ | 5 Bolts | FA. J Samson. 1997. | ||
3. | Groping in the Dark | 24/7a | 4 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1997. |
Waterworld
Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.
Waterworld History Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable. In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)
Waterworld Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Monkey See Monkey Do | 19/6a/6a+ | 8 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009. | ||
2. | Arendsig | 18/6a | 8 Bolts | ***** | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007. | |
3. | Walk On By | 23/6c+ | 8 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007. | ||
4. | Some Would Say | 26/7b | 7 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013. | ||
5. | Simply Irresistible | 27/7b+ | 5 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007. | (Branches left) | |
6. | The Singularity | 29/7c+ | 5 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010 | (veers right) | |
7. | Firestarter! | 29/7c+ | 9 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
8. | My Route Down By The River | 31/8a+ | 10 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
9. | Chongalolo | 33/8b+ (proposed) | BB: Matt Bush. FA Cody Roth. 2013 | |||
10. | Twist And Crawl | 28/7c | 12 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009. | ||
11. | The Mission | 24/7a | 5 Bolts | BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996. | This is the original route at Waterworld. | |
12. | Sidewinder | 24/7a | 6 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
13. | Creepy Crawly | 20/6a+ | 6 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. |
Peanut Gallery
Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags.
Routes LEFT to Right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Good Day for Basketball | 22/6c | 4 Bolts | FA. R Holwill. 1997. | ||
2. | Finding Ningo | 27/7b+ | 5 Bolts | FA. C Martinengo. 2004. | ||
3. | Duende | 32/8b | FA. Matt Bush. |
Lion Said
As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.
Lion Said Routes From Left to Right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Short Cut | 21/6b+ | 3 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
2. | Short, Sharp, Shock! | 23/6c+ | 3 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
3. | Come Short | 25/7a+ | 3 Bolts | BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002. | ||
4. | Hello Aloe | 15/ 5b | 13 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
5. | Devil Speak | 21/6b+ | 9 Bolts | FA. K Schumann. 1998. |
Sloth Crag
Sloth Crag Routes from Left to Right
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Sunshine Reggae | 15/5b | 9 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground. | |
2. | One For The Money | 17/5c | 5 Bolts | FA. S Brown 2002. | ||
3. | Rattle and Hum | 24/7a | 5 bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
4. | Beautiful Day | 25/7a+ | 5 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 2002 | ||
5. | Sloth | 25/7a+ | 5 Bolts | FA. J Samson. 1996 | ||
6. | If I Go It will Be Double | 24/7a | 14 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | If I Stay There Will Be Trouble 23 [9 Bolts] ends at mid chains. | |
7. | Throw The Chicken | 9/4 | 5 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
8. | Mediocre Youth | 21/6b+ | 4 Bolts | FA. M Smigelskis | ||
9. | Two For The Show | 17/5c | 5 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002 | ||
10. | Vision Thing | 23/6c+ | 12 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2003 |
Supertubes
Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.
Supertubes Routes from Left to Right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Wax my Gun and have some Fun | 21/6b+ | 6 Bolts | FA. T Hyde. 1999. | ||
2. | The Dumper | 15/5b | 7 Bolts | FA. Stuart Brown. 2004. | ||
3. | Beach Break | 19/6a+ | 7 Bolts | FA. Stuart Brown. 2004. | ||
4. | Whoa She Poopie | 29/7c+ | 10 Bolts | BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Justin Hawkins. 1998. | ||
5. | Point Break | 29/7c+ | 10 Bolts | FA. Jono Fisher. 1991. | ||
6. | Rad and Bad | 29/7c+ | 10 Bolts | FA. Mike Roberts. 1991. | ||
7. | Surf and Turf | 23/6c+ | 7 Bolts | <add FA> | ||
8. | Leap Tide | 27/7b+ | 9 Bolts | FA. Stuart Brown. 2004. | Shares same chains as Thruster | |
9. | Thruster | 26/7b | 7 Bolts | FA. Sean Maasch. 1992. | ||
10. | Triple Stinger | 26/7b | 7 Bolts | FA. Sean Maasch. 1991. | ||
11. | J-Bay | 28/7c | 9 Bolts | FA. D Wiemar. 1997. | ||
12. | Wipe-Out | 31/8a+ | 5 Bolts | FA. Clinton Martinengo. 2012. | ||
13. | Hypoxia | 29/7c+ | 7 Bolts | FA. G Hoerhager. 1996. | ||
14. | First Wave | 25/7a+ | 5 Bolts | FA. Jeremy Ward. 1998. | ||
15. | <unknown> | <add details> |
Pipeline
There are only 4 routes here (the two remaining projects should prove to be VERY HARD. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. It is possible to abseil using the 2 abseil bolts, but you're really better off walking. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Aura | 32/8b | ? Bolts | BB by Guy Holwill in 1996. FA. Matt Bush 2013. | ||
2. | Miss Behaving | 33/8b+ | ? Bolts | BB by Sean Maasch in 1996. FA. Sasha DiGiulian 2013. | ||
3. | <Open Project> | |||||
4. | <Open Project> |
South Park
The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. South Park Routes LEFT to Right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Cartman Gets an Anal Probe | 7a/25 | 7 Bolts | FA. C Bruton. 1999. | ||
2. | Who Killed Kenny? | 7b+/27 | 5 Bolts | FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000. |
The Palace
The Palace Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Bad Cop, No Donut | 24/7a | 6 Bolts | FA. J Samson. 2004. | Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs | |
2. | Elegantly Wasted | 26/7b | 10 Bolts | FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999. | ||
3. | S102 | 25/7a+ | 10 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 2004. | ||
4. | Icarus | 23/6c+ | BB&FA. S Brown. 2010 | |||
5. | Lexi's Route | 25/7a+ | 7 Bolts | <unknown> | ||
6. | Cyberpunk | 25/7a+ | 9 Bolts | ***** | FA. R Nattrass. 1996. | |
7. | MoonaBoos | 27/7b+ | 10 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 1999. | ||
8. | Shagadelic | 23/6c+ | 8 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 2000 | ||
9. | Burning Chrome | 28/7c | 14 Bolts | FA. R Nattrass. 1995. | ||
10. | Judge Dredd | 29/7c+ | 13 Bolts | FA. R Nattrass. 1996. | ||
11. | Strange Days | 31/8a+ | 5 Bolts | FA. E Wiercx. 1997. | ||
12. | About Time | 27/7b+ | 12 Bolts | FA. C Martinengo. 2004. | ||
13. | The Activist | 30/8a | 11 Bolts | FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995. | ||
14. | The Neuromancer | 23/6c+ | 8 Bolts | FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995. | ||
15. | Mad Max | 21/6b+ | 14 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | 13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches. | |
16. | Psycho Ranger | 20/6b | 13 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | 15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches. |
The Swamp
Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings. The Swamp Routes from Left to Right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Gruff | 7b/26 | 4 Bolts | FA. S Bradshaw. 1995. | ||
2. | Route Do Me | 7b+/27 | 4 Bolts | FA. S Maasch. 1994. | ||
3. | Gluttony | 7c+/29 | 4 Bolts | FA. J Samson. 1996. | ||
4. | Where Eagles Dare | 5c/16 | 7 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | On the slab. | |
5. | There Lurks the Boogie-Man | 5a/13 | 8 Bolts | FA. Stuart Brown. 2002. | On the slab. | |
6. | Disprin | 25/7a+ | 10 Bolts | FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996. | This route is above the last 2 routes. |
Playground
Small crag right of The Swamp. Playground Routes LEFT to Right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Jungle Gym Junkie | 5c/18 | 4 Bolts | FA. M Gowans. 1993. | ||
2. | Jungle Jim | 6a/19 | 4 Bolts | FA. C Curson. 1995. | ||
3. | See Saw | 4/15 | 3 Bolts | FA. C Curson. 1995. | ||
4. | The Jester | 6c+/24 | 3 Bolts | FA. R Suter. 1992. | ||
5. | Party-on Wayne | 7a/25 | 3 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1993. | ||
6. | Jus Klup Ut | 7b+/27 | 3 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1993. | ||
7. | Powerplay | 7a+/25 | 4 Bolts | FA. E February. 1995. | ||
8. | Fun in the Sun | 6b+/22 | 3 Bolts | FA. M Gowans. 1994. |
Uriah Heep
Uriah Heep Routes from Left to Right
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Love Machine | 6b+/22 | 6 Bolts | FA. P McCann. 1998. | ||
2. | Stealin' | 6b+/22 | 9 Bolts | FA. G Hart. 1993. | ||
3. | Digital Bitch | 7b/26 | 6 Bolts | FA. P Becker. 1993. | ||
4. | Demons and Wizards | 7b+/28 | 5 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1994. | ||
5. | Easy Living | 7b/26 | 5 Bolts | FA. D Pothier. 1993. | ||
6. | November Afternoon | 6c/23 | 5 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1993. | Top jug broken off Jan 2013 | |
7. | July Morning | 6b+/22 | 5 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1993. | ||
8. | Firefly | 6a/19 | 6 Bolts | FA. P McCann. 1998. |
The Arete
On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Savage Me | 24/7a | 6 Bolts | FA. S Downing. 1994 |
Berlin Wall
This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs.
Berlin Wall Routes from LEFT to right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Minefield | 6c/22 | 5 Bolts | FA. M Jåger. 1992. | ||
2. | Vays und Meenz | 7a/24 | 11 Bolts | FA. M Jåger. 1992. | ||
3. | Streef Bogananoff | 7a/24 | 8 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 2002. | ||
4. | Hot Toddy Bension | 7c/28 | 7 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1997. | ||
5. | Brandenburg Gate | 6b+/21 | 8 Bolts | FA. M Jåger | ||
6. | Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27 | 27/7b+ | 4 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1997. | ||
7. | <open project> | BB. Stuart Brown |
Worlds Apart
Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade.
Worlds Apart Routes from LEFT to right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Reflections | 25/7a+ | 6 Bolts | FA. R Suter. 1995 | ||
2. | Project | BB. R Suter | ||||
3. | Delete Button | 26/7b | 6 Bolts | FA. J Colenso. 1993 | ||
4. | Yankee Rose | 29/7c+ | 9 Bolts | FA. J Colenso. 1992 | ||
5. | Voices | 24/7a | 4 Bolts | FA. J Colenso. 1991. | ||
6. | Daze of Thunder | 28/7c | 7 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1991. | ||
7. | Rise of the Machines/ Natures Way Project. | 32/8b | 7 Bolts | <Open> | ROTM opened (C Martinengo) on glue holds that have subsequently perished. | |
8. | Whispering Echo | 10/4 | 8 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2004. | ||
9. | Little Jack Horner | 15/5b | 8 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2004. | ||
10. | Kojak | 18/6a | 6 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2004. | ||
11. | Rolling Stones | 24/7a | 6 Bolts | FA. M Jäger. 1992. | Retro bolted by S Brown | |
12. | Sukmeov | 22/6c | 7 Bolts | FA. D Gawlowski. 1994. |
Jurrasic Park
Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade.
Jurrasic Park Routes from LEFT to right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Against the Grain | 7c/28 | 7 Bolts | FA. J Samson. 1995. | ||
2. | Jabulani | 7c/28 | 9 Bolts | FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999 | ||
3. | Big Bag Voodoo | 5/17 | ||||
4. | <project> | |||||
5. | Mazawattee | 35/8c+ | BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009. | |||
6. | Nugget Slab | 18/6a | 8 Bolts | BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991. | On slab opposing overhang. |
The Laundry
Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park.
The Laundry Routes from LEFT to right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Super Blue | 24/7a | 5 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 1998. | ||
2. | Stay Soft | 26/7b | 5 Bolts | FA. S Downing. 1998. | ||
3. | <open project> | |||||
4. | <open project> |
The Rage
Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.
The Rage Routes from Left to Right
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Bullet in the Head | 31/8a+ | 5 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1995. | This route is manufactured. |
The Hotel
Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.
The Hotel Routes from Left to Right
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | The Key | 27/7b+ | 5 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1997. | ||
2. | The bellboys, The bellboys | 26/7b | 6 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1997 | ||
3. | U Like Jamin? | 23/6c+ | 6 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently. | |
4. | Rim Service | 24/7a | 6 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1997. |
The Bar
The Bar Routes from Left to Right
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Savanna | 19/6a+ | 4 Bolts | FA. D Marshall. 2001. | ||
2. | Captain Morgan | 19/6a+ | 4 Bolts | FA. D Marshall. 2001. |
>> Back to Montagu page