Barrier Buttress

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(Created page with "Barrier has a string of classic trad routes with easy access from a good path which is shared with Volken Buttress. The climbing is on good rock and a generally moderate grade...")
 
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Pitch 2 (17) 12m : scramble up the pillars and step right to start for the "Donkey Step" ledge on BF, but instead head straight up the cracked face beneath a long, narrow overlap. Ascent to the overlap, and traverse left beneath it to take a good stance. With good rope management this and the last pitch can easily be linked.
 
Pitch 2 (17) 12m : scramble up the pillars and step right to start for the "Donkey Step" ledge on BF, but instead head straight up the cracked face beneath a long, narrow overlap. Ascent to the overlap, and traverse left beneath it to take a good stance. With good rope management this and the last pitch can easily be linked.
 
Pitch 3 (14) 20m : take the fault on the face above you to a ledge with a left facing corner. Take this corner and step the overlap above to a left tending fault to the top.
 
Pitch 3 (14) 20m : take the fault on the face above you to a ledge with a left facing corner. Take this corner and step the overlap above to a left tending fault to the top.
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Barrier Bones
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Barrier Corner
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Barrier Edge*
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Barrier Enterprise
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Barrier Hatchet
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Barrier North Side (D) 1 Star
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G.F. Travers-Jackson(solo) 1901
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Too Much Traversing at Start
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Traverse, at the highest line across to the left-had side of the buttress, which takes you past routes that start on the front. Continue past the start of Snakes and Ladders and Ludo into a cave like walk that becomes a dassie traverse on large blocks. At the farthest end, almost in the ravine between Jubilee and Barrier Buttresses it is possible to climb on easy rock. Hereafter the north side if the buttress is followed on "go as you please" manner to the top.
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Barrier Ravine
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Hang Ten
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Ludo
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Persona Non Grata*
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Ludo(F2) 1 Star
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P.D Attenborough and M Scott 1972
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"A difficult crux mars a pleasant route"
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The route starts to the left of Snakes and Ladders at the start of the "dassie" Traverse on Barrier North side Route.
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Pitch 1. Climb the break which ends in an awkward pull-up on the right hand corner,a bit further,
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Pitch 2. Climb up a steep rib which finishes on the big slope.
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Pitch 3. Straight ahead is a black streaked face in among the overhangs, to the left of Snakes and Ladders (which takes a traverse line to the right). Delightful "D" climbing moving more or less out to the right at the overhangs finishes the route.
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Snakes and Ladders*** (E2 or 12)
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J. De V Graaf, B.M Quail and C.  Inglis 1954
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A pleasant if somewhat disjointed route up the north side of Barrier.
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Start at a large triangular block about 6m left of Barrier Pinnacle
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Pitch 1. (12) climb the crack on the left side of the block to a stance on top. hand traverse left for a few meters below a chimney/crack.
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Pitch 2. (12) Climb the vertical chimney from the right-hand corner of the stance, traversing out left at the top. Scramble 30m in the direction of 11 o'clock to a pitch about 40m to the left of a prominent pinnacle.
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Pitch 3. (10) From the level of the top of the pinnacle, traverse right for about 7m along a narrow ledge, then up 6m to a platform. move right into a crack which leads to a stance at the top of a prominent nose.
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Pitch 4. (10) Climb the face behind the nose, moving diagonally right. turn a corner to gain a narrow ledge above
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Pitch 5. (10) Traverse 7m along the ledge to a vertical fault in the final wall (facing Porcupine Buttress). Climb on the right  side of the fault to the top.
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Notes: there is a direct variation for the the first 3 pitches: pull up into a brown face and climb to a good hand-rail which enables you to do a strenuous and exposed hand swing (13) left to the base of a vertical, open chimney
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Thirty-Nine Steps
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Barrier Crag
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Walk Over *** (F2)
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K. D Fletcher and R. Williams 1966
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A fair route which slips between Barrier Pinnacle and Barrier Crag
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Start: up the over hanging corner left of Barrier Pinnacle
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Pitch 1. (14) Climb up the corner until it is possible to traverse left on slanting hand grips to a semi-detached block. Climb the Block, stepping off and traversing right to stance shared with Pinnacle.
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Pitch 2. (13) Move around the bulging corner, using good grips in a recess to reach a hidden flake, and continue  up to a good stance or continue up a brown recess, traversing left under a overhang to exit up a corner to a broad ledge.
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Pitch 3. (16) Lay-back up the right-side of a ramp until forced to traverse left onto the ramp. Continue up to a small one-man stance below an overhang on the right. Continue using a series of pull-ups, move left and up through  the overhang. climb the block to a good stance.
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Pitch 4. (13) Step across onto the face, then traverse left round a corner and up to a good stance below a black crack. climb the crack to the top.
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Barrier Pinnacle **** (F3 or 17)
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R. Burton, J. Davis, P. O' Neil, L. Schaf, O. Shipley 1947
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Great route with some fine climbing which starts about 6m
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Barrier Sandwich*
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Barrier Frontal
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Barrier Direct 17
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This route is a variation of Barrier Frontal (BF), and is well worth doing. Being a new route please look out for the odd loose hold, especially on the 2nd pitch. It is unknown if it has been done before, and so unless someone knows more... the route was first climbed on 1/3/2014 by W.Gans & S.
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Dingaka

Revision as of 12:29, 28 March 2014

Barrier has a string of classic trad routes with easy access from a good path which is shared with Volken Buttress. The climbing is on good rock and a generally moderate grade.

Barrier Direct 17 This route is a variation of Barrier Frontal (BF), and is well worth doing. Being a new route please look out for the odd loose hold, especially on the 2nd pitch. It is unknown if it has been done before, and so unless someone knows more... the route was first climbed on 1/3/2014 by W.Gans & S.

Pitch 1 (16) 40m: Start as for BF but continue straight where Frontal traverses right on the first pitch- and continue up a series of rounded cracks offering good protection. eventually one reaches a small roof, which one traverses right and around. Stance as for the 3rd pitch of BF. Pitch 2 (17) 12m : scramble up the pillars and step right to start for the "Donkey Step" ledge on BF, but instead head straight up the cracked face beneath a long, narrow overlap. Ascent to the overlap, and traverse left beneath it to take a good stance. With good rope management this and the last pitch can easily be linked. Pitch 3 (14) 20m : take the fault on the face above you to a ledge with a left facing corner. Take this corner and step the overlap above to a left tending fault to the top.

Barrier Bones Barrier Corner

Barrier Edge* Barrier Enterprise Barrier Hatchet

Barrier North Side (D) 1 Star G.F. Travers-Jackson(solo) 1901 Too Much Traversing at Start Traverse, at the highest line across to the left-had side of the buttress, which takes you past routes that start on the front. Continue past the start of Snakes and Ladders and Ludo into a cave like walk that becomes a dassie traverse on large blocks. At the farthest end, almost in the ravine between Jubilee and Barrier Buttresses it is possible to climb on easy rock. Hereafter the north side if the buttress is followed on "go as you please" manner to the top.


Barrier Ravine

Hang Ten Ludo Persona Non Grata*

Ludo(F2) 1 Star P.D Attenborough and M Scott 1972 "A difficult crux mars a pleasant route"

The route starts to the left of Snakes and Ladders at the start of the "dassie" Traverse on Barrier North side Route. Pitch 1. Climb the break which ends in an awkward pull-up on the right hand corner,a bit further, Pitch 2. Climb up a steep rib which finishes on the big slope. Pitch 3. Straight ahead is a black streaked face in among the overhangs, to the left of Snakes and Ladders (which takes a traverse line to the right). Delightful "D" climbing moving more or less out to the right at the overhangs finishes the route.

Snakes and Ladders*** (E2 or 12) J. De V Graaf, B.M Quail and C. Inglis 1954 A pleasant if somewhat disjointed route up the north side of Barrier. Start at a large triangular block about 6m left of Barrier Pinnacle Pitch 1. (12) climb the crack on the left side of the block to a stance on top. hand traverse left for a few meters below a chimney/crack. Pitch 2. (12) Climb the vertical chimney from the right-hand corner of the stance, traversing out left at the top. Scramble 30m in the direction of 11 o'clock to a pitch about 40m to the left of a prominent pinnacle. Pitch 3. (10) From the level of the top of the pinnacle, traverse right for about 7m along a narrow ledge, then up 6m to a platform. move right into a crack which leads to a stance at the top of a prominent nose. Pitch 4. (10) Climb the face behind the nose, moving diagonally right. turn a corner to gain a narrow ledge above Pitch 5. (10) Traverse 7m along the ledge to a vertical fault in the final wall (facing Porcupine Buttress). Climb on the right side of the fault to the top.

Notes: there is a direct variation for the the first 3 pitches: pull up into a brown face and climb to a good hand-rail which enables you to do a strenuous and exposed hand swing (13) left to the base of a vertical, open chimney

Thirty-Nine Steps

Barrier Crag

Walk Over *** (F2) K. D Fletcher and R. Williams 1966 A fair route which slips between Barrier Pinnacle and Barrier Crag Start: up the over hanging corner left of Barrier Pinnacle Pitch 1. (14) Climb up the corner until it is possible to traverse left on slanting hand grips to a semi-detached block. Climb the Block, stepping off and traversing right to stance shared with Pinnacle. Pitch 2. (13) Move around the bulging corner, using good grips in a recess to reach a hidden flake, and continue up to a good stance or continue up a brown recess, traversing left under a overhang to exit up a corner to a broad ledge. Pitch 3. (16) Lay-back up the right-side of a ramp until forced to traverse left onto the ramp. Continue up to a small one-man stance below an overhang on the right. Continue using a series of pull-ups, move left and up through the overhang. climb the block to a good stance. Pitch 4. (13) Step across onto the face, then traverse left round a corner and up to a good stance below a black crack. climb the crack to the top.

Barrier Pinnacle **** (F3 or 17) R. Burton, J. Davis, P. O' Neil, L. Schaf, O. Shipley 1947 Great route with some fine climbing which starts about 6m

Barrier Sandwich*

Barrier Frontal

Barrier Direct 17 This route is a variation of Barrier Frontal (BF), and is well worth doing. Being a new route please look out for the odd loose hold, especially on the 2nd pitch. It is unknown if it has been done before, and so unless someone knows more... the route was first climbed on 1/3/2014 by W.Gans & S.

Dingaka

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