Barrier Buttress

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Barrier has a string of classic trad routes with easy access from a good path which is shared with Volken Buttress. The climbing is on good rock and a generally moderate grade.
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Barrier has a string of classic trad routes with easy access from a good path which is shared with Volken Buttress. The climbing is on good rock and a generally moderate grade. Currently there is a guide book out for the buttress within "Cape Peninsula Direct", however that guide is not comprehensive.
  
 
Barrier Direct 17
 
This route is a variation of Barrier Frontal (BF), and is well worth doing. Being a new route please look out for the odd loose hold, especially on the 2nd pitch. It is unknown if it has been done before, and so unless someone knows more... the route was first climbed on 1/3/2014 by W.Gans & S.
 
 
 
Pitch 1 (16) 40m: Start as for BF but continue straight where Frontal traverses right on the first pitch- and continue up a series of rounded cracks offering good protection. eventually one reaches a small roof, which one traverses right and around. Stance as for the 3rd pitch of BF.
 
 
Pitch 2 (17) 12m : scramble up the pillars and step right to start for the "Donkey Step" ledge on BF, but instead head straight up the cracked face beneath a long, narrow overlap. Ascent to the overlap, and traverse left beneath it to take a good stance. With good rope management this and the last pitch can easily be linked.
 
 
Pitch 3 (14) 20m : take the fault on the face above you to a ledge with a left facing corner. Take this corner and step the overlap above to a left tending fault to the top.
 
 
Barrier Bones
 
  
 
Barrier Corner
 
Barrier Corner
 
Barrier Edge*
 
 
Barrier Enterprise
 
  
 
Barrier Hatchet
 
Barrier Hatchet
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Thirty-Nine Steps
 
Thirty-Nine Steps
  
Barrier Crag
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Barrier Crag (F2 or 16)
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A.B. Berrisford, R.J. Johnson and A.j. Singer 1927
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A Rather obscure climb. with careful searching there are cairns and beacons for it.
  
Walk Over *** (F2)
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Pitch 1. (F2)The route starts 6m Left of Barrier Pinnacle, atop a large triangular block.
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from the top of the block climb straight up  a square gap between two huge blocks until under the overhangs.  Steep  climbing leads out onto the face on the left where one leaves a good grip for  a very high stretch to a poor lay-back edge. Continue up to the ledge above.
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Pitch 2. (E2)Scramble up diagonally right until the level of the broken ledge on which the prominent pinnacle on the crest of the buttress stands. About 15m left of the pinnacle,  at the foot of  a steep slanting ramp the next beacon will be found. Follow a straight line up a rib to the left of the ramp which belongs to Walk Over
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Walk Over *** (F2 or 16)
 
K. D Fletcher and R. Williams 1966
 
K. D Fletcher and R. Williams 1966
 
A fair route which slips between Barrier Pinnacle and Barrier Crag
 
A fair route which slips between Barrier Pinnacle and Barrier Crag
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Note: the original route took the Shaly crack on pitch 4 directly above the stance- climb the obvious lay-back crack that leads directly up to the "Soup Plate"
 
Note: the original route took the Shaly crack on pitch 4 directly above the stance- climb the obvious lay-back crack that leads directly up to the "Soup Plate"
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Barrier Bones ** (F3 or 17)
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R. Williams and A Chinery
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You will need to know the adjacent routes to follow this line.
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Start 6m left of Barrier Enterprise.
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Pitch 1. 15m (F2) climb up the vertical flake 6m left of Barrier Enterprise, and continue up a bulging face into a recess which is ascended to a ledge.
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Pitch 2. 10m (E3) Traverse to the right and stand on a flake to ascend the face, and move out left to stance
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Pitch 3. 18m (F2) Climb the white face behind to the ledge above. (Barrier Frontal traverses right here)
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Pitch 4. 22m (F1) Almost behind the last pitch climb up the overhanging face, starting at the corner to the right. This ends below the shaly crack of Barrier Frontal
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Pitch 5. 9m (F2) Climb the sloping white ramp to the left of the shaly crack to share a stance with Frontal and Sandwich.
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Pitch 6. 21m (F2) Climb the left of two cracks straight above dark rocks with horrible flakes at the start- and traverse left under overhangs to a stance at the top of a lay-back crack on Pinnacle. The crux is the pull up at the end on blocks that look loose, but are part of the mountain.
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Pitch 7. 34m (F2) Climb up immediately above the ledge via an awkward mantle  shelf. continue up to a small overhang, traverse right and then up diagonally to a break in the next overhang. the route finishes on the crest of the buttress.
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Barrier Enterprise
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Barrier Edge
  
 
Dingaka
 
Dingaka

Revision as of 16:02, 28 March 2014

Barrier has a string of classic trad routes with easy access from a good path which is shared with Volken Buttress. The climbing is on good rock and a generally moderate grade. Currently there is a guide book out for the buttress within "Cape Peninsula Direct", however that guide is not comprehensive.


Barrier Corner

Barrier Hatchet

Barrier North Side (D) 1 Star G.F. Travers-Jackson(solo) 1901 Too Much Traversing at Start Traverse, at the highest line across to the left-had side of the buttress, which takes you past routes that start on the front. Continue past the start of Snakes and Ladders and Ludo into a cave like walk that becomes a dassie traverse on large blocks. At the farthest end, almost in the ravine between Jubilee and Barrier Buttresses it is possible to climb on easy rock. Hereafter the north side if the buttress is followed on "go as you please" manner to the top.


Barrier Ravine

Hang Ten

Ludo

Persona Non Grata*


Ludo(F2) 1 Star P.D Attenborough and M Scott 1972 "A difficult crux mars a pleasant route"

The route starts to the left of Snakes and Ladders at the start of the "dassie" Traverse on Barrier North side Route. Pitch 1. Climb the break which ends in an awkward pull-up on the right hand corner,a bit further,

Pitch 2. Climb up a steep rib which finishes on the big slope.

Pitch 3. Straight ahead is a black streaked face in among the overhangs, to the left of Snakes and Ladders (which takes a traverse line to the right). Delightful "D" climbing moving more or less out to the right at the overhangs finishes the route.


Snakes and Ladders*** (E2 or 12) J. De V Graaf, B.M Quail and C. Inglis 1954 A pleasant if somewhat disjointed route up the north side of Barrier. Start at a large triangular block about 6m left of Barrier Pinnacle

Pitch 1. (12) climb the crack on the left side of the block to a stance on top. hand traverse left for a few meters below a chimney/crack.

Pitch 2. (12) Climb the vertical chimney from the right-hand corner of the stance, traversing out left at the top. Scramble 30m in the direction of 11 o'clock to a pitch about 40m to the left of a prominent pinnacle.

Pitch 3. (10) From the level of the top of the pinnacle, traverse right for about 7m along a narrow ledge, then up 6m to a platform. move right into a crack which leads to a stance at the top of a prominent nose.

Pitch 4. (10) Climb the face behind the nose, moving diagonally right. turn a corner to gain a narrow ledge above

Pitch 5. (10) Traverse 7m along the ledge to a vertical fault in the final wall (facing Porcupine Buttress). Climb on the right side of the fault to the top.

Notes: there is a direct variation for the the first 3 pitches: pull up into a brown face and climb to a good hand-rail which enables you to do a strenuous and exposed hand swing (13) left to the base of a vertical, open chimney

Thirty-Nine Steps

Barrier Crag (F2 or 16) A.B. Berrisford, R.J. Johnson and A.j. Singer 1927 A Rather obscure climb. with careful searching there are cairns and beacons for it.

Pitch 1. (F2)The route starts 6m Left of Barrier Pinnacle, atop a large triangular block. from the top of the block climb straight up a square gap between two huge blocks until under the overhangs. Steep climbing leads out onto the face on the left where one leaves a good grip for a very high stretch to a poor lay-back edge. Continue up to the ledge above.

Pitch 2. (E2)Scramble up diagonally right until the level of the broken ledge on which the prominent pinnacle on the crest of the buttress stands. About 15m left of the pinnacle, at the foot of a steep slanting ramp the next beacon will be found. Follow a straight line up a rib to the left of the ramp which belongs to Walk Over


Walk Over *** (F2 or 16) K. D Fletcher and R. Williams 1966 A fair route which slips between Barrier Pinnacle and Barrier Crag Start: up the over hanging corner left of Barrier Pinnacle

Pitch 1. (14) Climb up the corner until it is possible to traverse left on slanting hand grips to a semi-detached block. Climb the Block, stepping off and traversing right to stance shared with Pinnacle.

Pitch 2. (13) Move around the bulging corner, using good grips in a recess to reach a hidden flake, and continue up to a good stance or continue up a brown recess, traversing left under a overhang to exit up a corner to a broad ledge.

Pitch 3. (16) Lay-back up the right-side of a ramp until forced to traverse left onto the ramp. Continue up to a small one-man stance below an overhang on the right. Continue using a series of pull-ups, move left and up through the overhang. climb the block to a good stance.

Pitch 4. (13) Step across onto the face, then traverse left round a corner and up to a good stance below a black crack. climb the crack to the top.


Barrier Pinnacle **** (F3 or 17) R. Burton, J. Davis, P. O' Neil, L. Schaf, O. Shipley 1947 Great route with some fine climbing which starts about 6m of a large triangular boulder, and 6m left of Barrier Sandwich.

Pitch 1. (16) CLimb the brown face for 4m, then traverse 2m left and up a to a roomy, cave like stance, on poor rock. Traverse right for 3m then climb a recess above, moving right to stance at the top.

Pitch 2. (13) Climb the bushy fault and step right to a bushed up ledge. Climb a series of lareg steps, which leads to an obvious traverse to the left for 5m, ending on a broad ledge.

Pitch 3. (16) A Pinnacle- from which the route gets its name- may bee seen in profile about 15m right. climb up behind the pinnacle and emerge on its right, before continuing up a vertical fault above to another 15m. Move out left to a good ledge some 7m above.

Pitch 4. (17) Climb diagonally up to the right to the foot of a vertical fault and lay-back to a stance. continue up excellent holds to the top.

Barrier Sandwich *** (F3 or 18) H, Graafland. H Snijders 1960 A Pile of good pitches that is slightly ,arred by a bushy 2nd pitch. Do not underestimate the first pitch.

Start about 12m left of Barrier Frontal, up a left facing corner capped by a roof.

Pitch 1 (18)Climb the recess for about 5m, then traverse right across the vertical wall to the corner. Pull through an overlap, to beneath the next roof, and move left and up a recess on a higher ledge (awkward). continue up the recess to the ceiling, then traverse right around the corner to a small ledge and move up to a bigger ledge. Climb the face above the left-hand edge of the ledge, then traverse 2m left into a shallow recess (with a bush) to another ledge.

Pitch 2. (8)Traverse to the right along a narrow, bushy ledge until you reach a stance at the top of the first pitch of Barrier Frontal.

Pitch 3. (16) From the blocks, climb on good holds past some steep flake moves to reach a stance in a deep fissure. Climb the fissure for about 1m then traverse out to the right for about 3m to the obvious break.Using a yellow sandy-looking projection move up to the right for 2m then sing up to the square stance to the right of the overhang.

Pitch 4. (16) Traverse Right, along reddish ledge for 5m until a flake lying flush with the face is reached.Using the flake swing up and continue climbing to the stance, bypassing the small overhang on the right. climb the obvious recess (shared with Frontal) and exit to the right to reach a ledge level with the 2 fixed pitons and horseshoe on Frontal.

Pitch 5. (16) Climb up for 3m, the move diagonally left to the hanging recess and up this to the top.

Persona Non Grata ***(21) FA T Dick, D Cheesmond FFA A de Klerk, R Hess 1981 A Direct line up the clean top faces between Barrier and Walk Over. Start from the right hand side of the light grey face about 10m right of Sandwich, or just left of the scramble to the base of Frontal.

Pitch 1. (21) Reach the handrail and traverse left to a tiny ledge just before the corner that overlooks Sandwich. Climb the steep crack above.

Pitch 2. (21) Climb the crack about 3m to the right, through a bulge in the red rock. Continue via a series of tricky moves up the outside of the pinnacle, climbing the final block to the left.

Pitch 3. (19) From the top of the block lying on the left of the crack of Barrier Pinnacle, reach height for a jug and pull-up leftwards into a shallow recess. Continue to the roof, then move left until the roof ends.An awkward pull-up leads to a stance above the roof.

Pitch 4. (16) Climb straight up, then diagonally left to a narrow ledge at the left end of the face.

Pitch 5. (17) Traverse 8m right along a rail, then climb up in line with the stance above with 3, through steep rock on in-cut holds. Continue past a ledge up short rock bands to the top.


There is a grade 17 variation mixing both Frontal and Sandwich where one takes the first pitch of Frontal, but instead of traversing right on the 2nd pitch of Frontal continue straight up a red/orange and heavily featured crack until one joins the 3rd pitch of Sandwich. Stay with Sandwich until it starts the right traverses on the 4th Pitch. The route takes the clean white/gray face dominated by 2 cracks beneath an overlap, reach the overlap and traverse left to a stance. Take the weathered crack above straight to the top, passing a large ledge exited through a left facing feature then another weathered crack to the top. this is a 2 pitch variation, stancing as Sandwich traverses right on its' 4th pitch. Because this is only a two pitch route it can be quickly done.

Barrier Frontal (14) **** J.W Fraser, F. Humphries, K. White 1917 One of the Peninsular's classics. Scramble up some easy cracks to the left of a crest of the buttress to gain a small tree at the base of a crack.

Pitch 1. (13) Climb the crack type fault to reach a ledge. traverse right around a the corner and up to a short right-angled corner. Climb this, then an awkward move to a stance.

Pitch 2. (12) Move right and climb the brown corner to the ledge above. Traverse right along the ledge all the way to the end of the ledge, then step up around the corner and further right to stance on a large rectangular block beneath an overhang.

Pitch 3. (13) Step off the block up to the roof. traverse right and through an awkward step up to clear the right side of the roof. Climb straight up the corner to the ledge.

Pitch 4. (11) Traverse across the ledge to the left to reach a flaky break. climb this, before moving right to belay at the end of the ledge on an old fixed pin.

Pitch 5. (13) Step Down, then traverse right ( past some old pegs and horseshoe) to gain the flat white face above. climb this ( the Soup Plate) to a narrow ledge. Traverse right and do a wide step-across ( the Donkey Ride) to gain the continuation of the ledge, and a stance.

Pitch 6. (14) From the right of the ledge, climb the fault to gain a ledge beneath a bulging face. climb the for a few moves, then move diagonally right to the corner on good holds. climb up this to a ledge, then a stance above before scrambling to the top.

Note: the original route took the Shaly crack on pitch 4 directly above the stance- climb the obvious lay-back crack that leads directly up to the "Soup Plate"


Barrier Bones ** (F3 or 17) R. Williams and A Chinery You will need to know the adjacent routes to follow this line. Start 6m left of Barrier Enterprise.

Pitch 1. 15m (F2) climb up the vertical flake 6m left of Barrier Enterprise, and continue up a bulging face into a recess which is ascended to a ledge.

Pitch 2. 10m (E3) Traverse to the right and stand on a flake to ascend the face, and move out left to stance

Pitch 3. 18m (F2) Climb the white face behind to the ledge above. (Barrier Frontal traverses right here)

Pitch 4. 22m (F1) Almost behind the last pitch climb up the overhanging face, starting at the corner to the right. This ends below the shaly crack of Barrier Frontal

Pitch 5. 9m (F2) Climb the sloping white ramp to the left of the shaly crack to share a stance with Frontal and Sandwich.

Pitch 6. 21m (F2) Climb the left of two cracks straight above dark rocks with horrible flakes at the start- and traverse left under overhangs to a stance at the top of a lay-back crack on Pinnacle. The crux is the pull up at the end on blocks that look loose, but are part of the mountain.

Pitch 7. 34m (F2) Climb up immediately above the ledge via an awkward mantle shelf. continue up to a small overhang, traverse right and then up diagonally to a break in the next overhang. the route finishes on the crest of the buttress.


Barrier Enterprise


Barrier Edge

Dingaka

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