Difference between revisions of "Bosch Kloof"

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You MUST park outside the gate by the main road (R62).  DO NOT under any circumstances drive in and park directly at the Legoland crag.  You may obviously drive in if you are staying over night at the Tolhuis.  This crag is on private land and climbing there is by permission of the land owner, so please respect the rules.  The land owner has forbidden access the the crags in Bosch Kloof.
 
You MUST park outside the gate by the main road (R62).  DO NOT under any circumstances drive in and park directly at the Legoland crag.  You may obviously drive in if you are staying over night at the Tolhuis.  This crag is on private land and climbing there is by permission of the land owner, so please respect the rules.  The land owner has forbidden access the the crags in Bosch Kloof.
 +
 +
 +
 +
  
 
= How to get there =
 
= How to get there =
 
<b>From Ashton/Cape Town direction:</b>  The large gravel parking area is just before the first bridge on the right.<br>
 
<b>From Ashton/Cape Town direction:</b>  The large gravel parking area is just before the first bridge on the right.<br>
−
<b>From Montagu direction:</b>  Drive towards Ashton/Cape Town, about 1km after the tunnel you will see the large gravel parking area on your left just over the bridge.<br>
+
<b>From Montagu direction:</b>  Drive towards Ashton/Cape Town, about 1km after the tunnel you will see the large gravel parking area on your left just over the bridge.
 +
 
 +
 
 +
 
 +
 
 +
= Trash and Toilets =
 +
There are no trash cans at the crag, so take your own trash bag with you & take all your trash home (this includes cigarette bugs, tendon tape, toilet paper, plastic bottles, sweet wrappers... you get the point (we hope).
 +
There are no toilets at or near the crags. So if you must pee, go far away from the crag and far away from the river.  Do not leave any toilet paper.  And (as gross as it may seem) please bag your poo. 
 +
 
 +
 
  
  
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= Bosch Kloof Climbing Map =
 
= Bosch Kloof Climbing Map =
 
<display_points type="satellite" height="500">
 
<display_points type="satellite" height="500">
−
-33.813778,  20.091539|[[#Legoland]]
+
-33.814026,20.090614|Parking|Do NOT drive in & DO NOT block the gate|Parking.png
−
-33.814223,  20.089030|[[#The Far Side]]
+
-33.813778,  20.091539|[[#Legoland]]||Climbing.png
−
-33.814130,  20.099668|[[#Forest Crag]]
+
-33.814223,  20.089030|[[#The Far Side]]||Climbing.png
−
-33.814506,  20.100920|[[#Twin Fins]]
+
-33.814130,  20.099668|[[#Forest Crag]]|<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span>|Climbing.png
−
-33.814052,  20.097529|[[#Hilti Crag]]
+
-33.814506,  20.100920|[[#Twin Fins]]|<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span>|Climbing.png
−
-33.812413,  20.097465|[[#Ramset Crag]]
+
-33.814052,  20.097529|[[#Hilti Crag]]|<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span>|Climbing.png
−
-33.813149,  20.096663|[[#Bosch Crag]]
+
-33.812413,  20.097465|[[#Ramset Crag]]|<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span>|Climbing.png
−
-33.813309,  20.101642|[[#Skull Crag]]
+
-33.813149,  20.096663|[[#Bosch Crag]]|<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span>|Climbing.png
−
-33.809996,  20.098951|[[#Matrix]]
+
-33.813309,  20.101642|[[#Skull Crag]]|<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span>|Climbing.png
 +
-33.809996,  20.098951|[[#Matrix]]||Climbing.png
 +
-33.814601,20.09335|[[#The Panel Crags]]||Climbing.png
 
-33.811933,  20.094853|Entrance to Bosch Kloof
 
-33.811933,  20.094853|Entrance to Bosch Kloof
 
</display_points>
 
</display_points>
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Line 48: Line 67:
  
 
== Legoland ==
 
== Legoland ==
−
Vertical, 1 minute flat walk, Early morning shade & Late Afternoon shade
+
Legoland is Montagu's most popular climbing area due to the easier grade of routes and quick access.<br />
−
This is one of Montagu's most popular crags due to the easier grade of routes and the 1 minute walk-in.<br>
+
Legoland is child friendly and dogs are allowed. <br />
−
Legoland is child friendly and dogs are allowed.
+
Vertical, 30 second flat walk, Early morning shade & Late Afternoon shade <br />
  
 
[[File:Legoland-far-left.jpg]]
 
[[File:Legoland-far-left.jpg]]
 +
[[File:20111124 LEGOLAND EDDY.jpg]]
 
[[File:Legoland-chocolate.jpg]]
 
[[File:Legoland-chocolate.jpg]]
 
[[File:Legoland-far-right.jpg]]
 
[[File:Legoland-far-right.jpg]]
Line 73: Line 93:
 
|
 
|
 
|Montagu Rock Adventures 2000
 
|Montagu Rock Adventures 2000
−
|
+
|This is the furthest left route (#1). Located around the east facing corner.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|2
 
|2
Line 81: Line 101:
 
|
 
|
 
|Montagu Rock Adventures 2000
 
|Montagu Rock Adventures 2000
−
|
+
|Same start as #1- I Tink Not but climbs to the chains of #3 - I Bewieve So Direct
 
|-
 
|-
 
|3
 
|3
Line 95: Line 115:
 
|17
 
|17
 
|9
 
|9
−
|
+
|*****
 
|Deon Knipe 2003
 
|Deon Knipe 2003
−
|
+
|#4. #5. #6 share the same start. #4 climbs the left route and has it's own top anchors.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|5
 
|5
Line 103: Line 123:
 
|17
 
|17
 
|7
 
|7
−
|
+
|*****
 
|Stuart Brown 2003
 
|Stuart Brown 2003
−
|
+
|#4. #5. #6 share the same start. #5 climbs to the anchors of #6.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|6
 
|6
Line 111: Line 131:
 
|19
 
|19
 
|7
 
|7
−
|
+
|*****
 
|Tony Lourens 1993
 
|Tony Lourens 1993
−
|
+
|#4. #5. #6 share the same start. #6 climbs the right route and has it's own top anchors.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|7
 
|7
Line 119: Line 139:
 
|19
 
|19
 
|6
 
|6
−
|
+
|*****
 
|Derek Marshall 2003
 
|Derek Marshall 2003
−
|
+
|Climb up the arete
 
|-
 
|-
 
|8
 
|8
Line 127: Line 147:
 
|21
 
|21
 
|11
 
|11
−
|
+
|****
 
|Tony Lourens 1997
 
|Tony Lourens 1997
−
|
+
|Long route in the dark corner. 60 meter rope required!
 
|-
 
|-
 
|9
 
|9
Line 137: Line 157:
 
|
 
|
 
|John Terblanche 1998
 
|John Terblanche 1998
−
|
+
|Climb under the BIG overhang onto the face
 
|-
 
|-
 
|10
 
|10
Line 145: Line 165:
 
|
 
|
 
|John Terblanche 1998
 
|John Terblanche 1998
−
|
+
|Climb up the ramp and onto the face
 
|-
 
|-
 
|11
 
|11
Line 151: Line 171:
 
|18
 
|18
 
|8
 
|8
−
|
+
|****
 
|Stuart Brown
 
|Stuart Brown
−
|
+
|Climb up into and through the crack under the shady nook to the left of Eddy.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|12
 
|12
Line 159: Line 179:
 
|24
 
|24
 
|4
 
|4
−
|
+
|*****
 
|Prof. Steve Bradshaw 1993
 
|Prof. Steve Bradshaw 1993
−
|
+
|Classic grade 24 testpiece.  Short & Powerful
 
|-
 
|-
 
|13
 
|13
Line 169: Line 189:
 
|
 
|
 
|Craig Bruton 1998
 
|Craig Bruton 1998
−
|
+
|Not the most popular climb at this crag. Careful belaying is advised.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|14
 
|14
Line 177: Line 197:
 
|
 
|
 
|Ed February 1994
 
|Ed February 1994
−
|
+
|Short & Powerful. Careful belaying is advised.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|15
 
|15
Line 185: Line 205:
 
|
 
|
 
|B Whitehead 2004
 
|B Whitehead 2004
−
|
+
|Powerful finishing move at the end.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|16
 
|16
Line 199: Line 219:
 
|18
 
|18
 
|6
 
|6
−
|
+
|*****
 
|Guy Holwill 1993
 
|Guy Holwill 1993
−
|
+
|Classic grade 18 test piece.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|18
 
|18
Line 207: Line 227:
 
|15
 
|15
 
|5
 
|5
−
|
+
|*****
−
|Guy Holwill 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
+
|Guy Holwill 1993. <br />20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
Line 216: Line 236:
 
|6
 
|6
 
|
 
|
−
|Guy Holwill 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
+
|Guy Holwill 1993. <br />20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
Line 224: Line 244:
 
|4
 
|4
 
|
 
|
−
|Guy Holwill 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
+
|Guy Holwill 1993. <br />20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
Line 232: Line 252:
 
|4
 
|4
 
|
 
|
−
|Guy Holwill 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
+
|Guy Holwill 1993. <br />20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
Line 240: Line 260:
 
|5
 
|5
 
|
 
|
−
|Beth Higgins 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
+
|Beth Higgins 1993. <br />20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
Line 248: Line 268:
 
|6
 
|6
 
|
 
|
−
|Nick Matthews 1994. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
+
|Nick Matthews 1994. <br />20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
−
|
+
|The first route on the right hand side of the crag.
 
|}
 
|}
  
  
 
[[File:Legoland203 0373.jpg]]
 
[[File:Legoland203 0373.jpg]]
 +
 +
 +
  
 
== The Far Side ==
 
== The Far Side ==
 
The Far Side is on the opposite side of the road (R62). Park in the parking area before Legoland and walk over the bridge (river) towards Montagu, then jump over the small fence to walk to the crag ahead of you on your right.<br />
 
The Far Side is on the opposite side of the road (R62). Park in the parking area before Legoland and walk over the bridge (river) towards Montagu, then jump over the small fence to walk to the crag ahead of you on your right.<br />
 +
Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.<br />
 +
Walk-in time: 5 minutes<br />
 
[[File:20111124 farside.jpg]]<br />
 
[[File:20111124 farside.jpg]]<br />
 
Routes from Left to Right
 
Routes from Left to Right
Line 281: Line 306:
 
|22  
 
|22  
 
|(7B)  
 
|(7B)  
−
|4 Star
+
|*****
−
|FA: AdK 1994
+
|FA: AdK 1994<br /> Nov 2011. Retro-bolted By J Lawson & M Wiswedel
−
|Nov 2011. Retro-bolted By J Lawson & M Wiswedel
+
|Classic Grade 22 test piece. Excellent route!
 
|-
 
|-
 
|3.  
 
|3.  
Line 299: Line 324:
  
 
== The Panel Crags ==
 
== The Panel Crags ==
−
The Panel crags are high up on the hill above Legoland.  To get to the crags, walk past Legoland and then up the steep hill to the crags above.
+
The Panel crags are high up on the hill above Legoland.  This crag is less popular due to the steep walk-in. To get to the crags, walk past Legoland and then up the steep hill to the crags above.<br />
 +
Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.<br />
 +
Walk-in time: 20 minutes<br />
 +
[[File:20030713 panel.jpg]]<br />
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 316: Line 344:
 
|
 
|
 
|Steve Downing 1996
 
|Steve Downing 1996
−
|
+
|The overhanging climb on the far left.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|2
 
|2
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|Oros (Greek God of Orange Juice)
 
−
|19
 
−
|7 Bolts
 
−
|
 
−
|O Keet 1996
 
−
|
 
−
|-
 
−
|3
 
 
|The Trip
 
|The Trip
 
|25
 
|25
Line 334: Line 354:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|4
+
|3
 
|Cool Turkey
 
|Cool Turkey
 
|23
 
|23
Line 342: Line 362:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|5
+
|4
 
|Free Basing
 
|Free Basing
 
|20
 
|20
Line 350: Line 370:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|6
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|5
 
|Mainline
 
|Mainline
 
|22
 
|22
Line 358: Line 378:
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
−
|7
+
|6
 
|Crackhead
 
|Crackhead
 
|22
 
|22
Line 365: Line 385:
 
|Steve Downing 1996
 
|Steve Downing 1996
 
|
 
|
 +
|-
 +
|7
 +
|Oros (Greek God of Orange Juice)
 +
|19
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|O Keet 1996
 +
|The climb on separate wall on the far right.
 
|}
 
|}
  
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== Matrix ==
 
== Matrix ==
−
 
+
This crag is less popular due to the long, unfrequented walk-in.
 +
Aspect: Morning Shade / Afternoon Sun.<br />
 +
Walk-in time: 30 minutes<br />
 +
[[File:The matrix.jpg]]<br />
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 428: Line 459:
 
|
 
|
 
|Andy Davies 2004
 
|Andy Davies 2004
−
|The route on the furthest left of the crag
+
|
 
|-
 
|-
 
|7
 
|7
Line 443: Line 474:
  
 
== Bosch Crag ==
 
== Bosch Crag ==
−
Climbing here is currently forbidden.
+
<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span>
 +
Bosch crag is one of the favorite crags in Montagu.  A 60 meter rope is advisable.<br />
 +
Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.<br />
 +
Walk-in time: 15 minutes<br />
 +
 
 +
[[File:20030928 bosch.jpg]]<br /><br />
  
−
[[Image:Gd_montaguboschcrag.jpg]]
+
[[Image:Gd_montaguboschcrag.jpg]]<br />
  
 
Aspect: Morning Sun/Afternoon Shade.
 
Aspect: Morning Sun/Afternoon Shade.
Line 516: Line 552:
 
|
 
|
 
|FA: S. Brown. Dec. 2003
 
|FA: S. Brown. Dec. 2003
−
|35m !  The route starts to the right of "Master Of Puppets" and crosses over at the fourth bolt and then carries on to the top of the crag. Lower to chains of "Me Or My Girl"
+
|35m !  The route starts to the right of "Master Of Puppets" and crosses over at the fourth bolt and then carries on to the top of the crag. Lower to chains of "Me Or My Girl". A 70 meter rope is advisable.  You can get down on a 60 if the belayer moves up to the ledge on the right.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|8.  
 
|8.  
Line 556: Line 592:
 
|
 
|
 
|FA: J. Fisher, retro Bolted A. Davies. Dec. 2003
 
|FA: J. Fisher, retro Bolted A. Davies. Dec. 2003
−
|
+
|The route furthest to the right.
 
|}
 
|}
  
Line 564: Line 600:
  
 
== Hilti Crag ==
 
== Hilti Crag ==
−
Climbing here is currently forbidden.<br />
+
<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span><br />
−
Aspect: Morning Sun/Afternoon Shade.<br />
+
Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.<br />
−
15 mins walk.<br />
+
Walk-in time: 25 minutes<br />
 
Hilti is the second crag on the right in the kloof (after Bosch). <br />
 
Hilti is the second crag on the right in the kloof (after Bosch). <br />
 
Routes from Left to Right<br />
 
Routes from Left to Right<br />
Line 633: Line 669:
  
 
== Ramset Crag ==
 
== Ramset Crag ==
−
Climbing here is currently forbidden.<br />
+
<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span><br />
 +
Ramset crag is one of the favorite crags in Montagu.  Great for early mornings & climbing till the sun comes over around noon.  The easy double-pitch routes are excellent (comfortable) training ground for harder stuff.  A 60 meter rope is advisable.<br />
 
Aspect: Morning Shade / Afternoon Sun<br />
 
Aspect: Morning Shade / Afternoon Sun<br />
 +
Walk-in time: 20 minutes<br />
 
The first crag on the left as you walk up the kloof - it's opposite Bosch Crag.<br />
 
The first crag on the left as you walk up the kloof - it's opposite Bosch Crag.<br />
−
[[File:20070106 ramset.jpg]]<br />
+
[[File:20070106 ramset.jpg]]<br /><br />
−
[[Image:Gd_montaguramset.jpg]]
+
[[Image:Gd_montaguramset.jpg]]<br />
  
  
Line 777: Line 815:
 
|
 
|
 
|FA: D Marshal 2002
 
|FA: D Marshal 2002
−
|
+
|#16,#17,#18 are not in this picture - they are on little separate crag to the right.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|17.  
 
|17.  
Line 785: Line 823:
 
|
 
|
 
|FA: D Marshal 2002
 
|FA: D Marshal 2002
−
|
+
|#16,#17,#18 are not in this picture - they are on little separate crag to the right.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|18.  
 
|18.  
Line 793: Line 831:
 
|
 
|
 
|FA: D Marshal 2003
 
|FA: D Marshal 2003
−
|
+
|#16,#17,#18 are not in this picture - they are on little separate crag to the right.
 
|}
 
|}
 +
 +
 +
 +
  
 
== Forest Crag ==
 
== Forest Crag ==
−
Climbing here is currently forbidden.<br />
+
<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span><br />
 
Aspect: Morning Shade/Afternoon Sun.<br />
 
Aspect: Morning Shade/Afternoon Sun.<br />
 +
Walk-in time: 30 minutes<br />
 
To get to Forest, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed.<br />
 
To get to Forest, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed.<br />
 
[[File:20090315 IMG 4348 forest.jpg]]
 
[[File:20090315 IMG 4348 forest.jpg]]
Line 881: Line 924:
  
 
== Twin Fins ==
 
== Twin Fins ==
−
Climbing here is currently forbidden.<br />
+
<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span><br />
 
Aspect: Morning Sun/Afternoon Shade.<br />
 
Aspect: Morning Sun/Afternoon Shade.<br />
 +
Walk-in time: 30 minutes<br />
 
To get to Twin Fins, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed. the walk off to Forest will be to your left, but you walk right past a large boulder and then up to Twin Fins straight ahead of you.<br />
 
To get to Twin Fins, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed. the walk off to Forest will be to your left, but you walk right past a large boulder and then up to Twin Fins straight ahead of you.<br />
 
[[File:20050309 twinfins.jpg]]
 
[[File:20050309 twinfins.jpg]]
Line 924: Line 968:
  
 
== Skull Crag ==
 
== Skull Crag ==
−
Climbing here is currently forbidden.<br />
+
<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span><br />
 
Aspect: Morning Shade/Afternoon Sun.<br />
 
Aspect: Morning Shade/Afternoon Sun.<br />
 
Walk in time: 50 mins. (Long walk but TOTALLY worth it. This crag is awesome)<br />
 
Walk in time: 50 mins. (Long walk but TOTALLY worth it. This crag is awesome)<br />

Revision as of 08:17, 14 November 2012

>> Back to Montagu main page

IMPORTANT

Please note: The whole of Bosch Kloof is closed until further notice Posted 24 March 2010

Access is being negotiated, if you choose to sneak in for a climb, you will be putting future access at risk.
NB: The owner of the Tolhuis Accommodation does not own the land on which any of these crags are situated.
All of the crags descibed below are on private land and climbing beyond Legoland & The Far Side & The Panel has been forbidden by the land owner since March 2010, so please respect the rules.

You MAY climb at: Legoland & The Far Side & The Panel

For now, Please NO Climbing at: Bosch, Ramset, Hilti, Forest, Twin Fins, Skull

You MUST park outside the gate by the main road (R62). DO NOT under any circumstances drive in and park directly at the Legoland crag. You may obviously drive in if you are staying over night at the Tolhuis. This crag is on private land and climbing there is by permission of the land owner, so please respect the rules. The land owner has forbidden access the the crags in Bosch Kloof.



How to get there

From Ashton/Cape Town direction: The large gravel parking area is just before the first bridge on the right.
From Montagu direction: Drive towards Ashton/Cape Town, about 1km after the tunnel you will see the large gravel parking area on your left just over the bridge.



Trash and Toilets

There are no trash cans at the crag, so take your own trash bag with you & take all your trash home (this includes cigarette bugs, tendon tape, toilet paper, plastic bottles, sweet wrappers... you get the point (we hope). There are no toilets at or near the crags. So if you must pee, go far away from the crag and far away from the river. Do not leave any toilet paper. And (as gross as it may seem) please bag your poo.



Cell Phone Reception

There is no cellphone reception at any of these crags.



Bosch Kloof Climbing Map

Loading map...




Bosch Kloof Crags

20120414 legoland.jpg



Legoland

Legoland is Montagu's most popular climbing area due to the easier grade of routes and quick access.
Legoland is child friendly and dogs are allowed.
Vertical, 30 second flat walk, Early morning shade & Late Afternoon shade

Legoland-far-left.jpg 20111124 LEGOLAND EDDY.jpg Legoland-chocolate.jpg Legoland-far-right.jpg

Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 I Tink Not 12 6 Montagu Rock Adventures 2000 This is the furthest left route (#1). Located around the east facing corner.
2 I Bewieve So 16 7 Montagu Rock Adventures 2000 Same start as #1- I Tink Not but climbs to the chains of #3 - I Bewieve So Direct
3 I Bewieve So Direct 16 7 Jason Temple-Forbes 2002
4 The Rope Man 17 9 ***** Deon Knipe 2003 #4. #5. #6 share the same start. #4 climbs the left route and has it's own top anchors.
5 The Missing Link 17 7 ***** Stuart Brown 2003 #4. #5. #6 share the same start. #5 climbs to the anchors of #6.
6 Hey, Come On 19 7 ***** Tony Lourens 1993 #4. #5. #6 share the same start. #6 climbs the right route and has it's own top anchors.
7 Persitence of Time 19 6 ***** Derek Marshall 2003 Climb up the arete
8 Bon Giorno Bambina 21 11 **** Tony Lourens 1997 Long route in the dark corner. 60 meter rope required!
9 Bolt Your Bitch 22 3 John Terblanche 1998 Climb under the BIG overhang onto the face
10 Slap and Tickle 21 3 John Terblanche 1998 Climb up the ramp and onto the face
11 Crack Baby 18 8 **** Stuart Brown Climb up into and through the crack under the shady nook to the left of Eddy.
12 Eddy of Bovidence 24 4 ***** Prof. Steve Bradshaw 1993 Classic grade 24 testpiece. Short & Powerful
13 Cheapskate Student 24 4 Craig Bruton 1998 Not the most popular climb at this crag. Careful belaying is advised.
14 Cleinous Hing 24 4 Ed February 1994 Short & Powerful. Careful belaying is advised.
15 Baboons on the Roof 21 4 B Whitehead 2004 Powerful finishing move at the end.
16 Caramel Roller Coaster 17 6 Stuart Brown 2004
17 Chocolate Speedway 18 6 ***** Guy Holwill 1993 Classic grade 18 test piece.
18 Life and Times of Mike Hunt 15 5 ***** Guy Holwill 1993.
20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
19 Not with New Brim 15 6 Guy Holwill 1993.
20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
20 Oh My Goodness 18 4 Guy Holwill 1993.
20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
21 Mild Thing 15 4 Guy Holwill 1993.
20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
22 Easy Does It 16 5 Beth Higgins 1993.
20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors.
23 Pipe Dreams 18 6 Nick Matthews 1994.
20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. 		The first route on the right hand side of the crag.


Legoland203 0373.jpg



The Far Side

The Far Side is on the opposite side of the road (R62). Park in the parking area before Legoland and walk over the bridge (river) towards Montagu, then jump over the small fence to walk to the crag ahead of you on your right.
Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.
Walk-in time: 5 minutes
20111124 farside.jpg
Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS) RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Cow Poetry 23 (7B) FA: K Donald 1995
2. Route Number One 22 (7B) ***** FA: AdK 1994
Nov 2011. Retro-bolted By J Lawson & M Wiswedel 		Classic Grade 22 test piece. Excellent route!
3. Skinny Legs and All 23 (6B) FA: P Becker 1995



The Panel Crags

The Panel crags are high up on the hill above Legoland. This crag is less popular due to the steep walk-in. To get to the crags, walk past Legoland and then up the steep hill to the crags above.
Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.
Walk-in time: 20 minutes
20030713 panel.jpg

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 Like Lams 24 10 Bolts Steve Downing 1996 The overhanging climb on the far left.
2 The Trip 25 9 Bolts Steve Downing 1996
3 Cool Turkey 23 9 Bolts Steve Downing 1996
4 Free Basing 20 8 Bolts Steve Downing 1996
5 Mainline 22 9 Bolts Steve Downing 1996
6 Crackhead 22 9 Bolts Steve Downing 1996
7 Oros (Greek God of Orange Juice) 19 7 Bolts O Keet 1996 The climb on separate wall on the far right.



Matrix

This crag is less popular due to the long, unfrequented walk-in. Aspect: Morning Shade / Afternoon Sun.
Walk-in time: 30 minutes
The matrix.jpg

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 Trust Me 22 12 Bolts Stuart Brown 2004 The route on the furthest left of the crag
2 Ray Charles 20 10 Bolts Andy Davies 2004
3 Stevie Wonder 22 10 Bolts Andy Davies 2004
4 Red Pill Blue Pill 23 11 Bolts Malcolm Gowans 2002
5 Suspended Animation 24 8 Bolts Stuart Brown 2004
6 Codger Reloaded 24 10 Bolts Andy Davies 2004
7 Reality Check 21 11 Bolts LLoyd Turner 2002 The route on the furthest right of the crag



Bosch Crag

Climbing here is currently forbidden. Bosch crag is one of the favorite crags in Montagu. A 60 meter rope is advisable.
Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.
Walk-in time: 15 minutes

20030928 bosch.jpg

Gd montaguboschcrag.jpg

Aspect: Morning Sun/Afternoon Shade. 15 mins walk. Walk past Legoland and up the kloof. Bosch is the first crag on the right in the kloof.

Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS) RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Just Another Roof 6b/20 (7B,C) FA: J. Fisher. 1992
2. Never Say Goodbybe 7b+/26 (6B,C) FA: J. Fisher. 1992
3. Latin Lessons 6b+/21 (10B,C) FA: J. Fisher. 1992
4. Partners in Crime 6c+/24 (7B,C) FA: S. Maasch. 1992
5. Me or My Girl 6b+/21 (9B,C) FA: S. Maasch. 1992
6. Master of Puppets 6a+/19 (10B,C) FA: S. Maasch. 1992
7. Beg, Borrow Or Steal Aka"Puppets On A Staaldraad" 6b+/22 (19B, C) FA: S. Brown. Dec. 2003 35m ! The route starts to the right of "Master Of Puppets" and crosses over at the fourth bolt and then carries on to the top of the crag. Lower to chains of "Me Or My Girl". A 70 meter rope is advisable. You can get down on a 60 if the belayer moves up to the ledge on the right.
8. Something Nowhere 6b+/22 (6B,C) FA: J. Fisher. 1992
9. Sanatorium 6a+/19 (8B,C) FA: S. Maasch. 1992
10. Trille In Die Bos 20/6a+ (9B,C) FA: A. Davies. Dec. 2003 The route starts to the right of "Sanatorium", bouldery start, named after Rudolfs boys.
11. Clashing Ego's 20 (N,C) FA: J. Fisher. 1992
12. Nice Boys Don't Play Rock And Roll 7a+/24 (6B,C) FA: J. Fisher, retro Bolted A. Davies. Dec. 2003 The route furthest to the right.



Hilti Crag

Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.
Walk-in time: 25 minutes
Hilti is the second crag on the right in the kloof (after Bosch).
Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS) RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. The Fertilizer King 21
2. Rockerfella 23
3. Rastas 21
4. Finger Fantasy 24
5. Wonderlust 26
6. Drill Thrill 25/26 Jamie Smith 2008



Ramset Crag

Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Ramset crag is one of the favorite crags in Montagu. Great for early mornings & climbing till the sun comes over around noon. The easy double-pitch routes are excellent (comfortable) training ground for harder stuff. A 60 meter rope is advisable.
Aspect: Morning Shade / Afternoon Sun
Walk-in time: 20 minutes
The first crag on the left as you walk up the kloof - it's opposite Bosch Crag.
20070106 ramset.jpg

Gd montaguramset.jpg


Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS) RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Better Than Raw 6b+/21 (6B,C) FA: D Marshal 2003
2. Pink Bubbles Go Ape 6c/22 (10B,C) FA: D Marshal 2001
3. Masters of Rings 6b+/21 (14B,C) FA: D Marshal 2001. 2008 Justin Lawson moved one of the top anchor rings to avoid rope twisting. 60 meter rope needed & put knot in the end of the rope!
4. Time of Oath 6b/20 (10B,C) FA: D Marshal 2001
5. Keeper of the Seven Rings 6a+/19 (8B,C) FA: D Marshal 2001
6. Beating Around the Bush P1: 16/5a ; P2 16/5a (10B,C) ; (10B,C) FA: S Brown 2003
7. Shot Down in Flames 5b/17 (10B,C) FA: S Brown 2003
8. Return of the War Lord 4b/13 (9B,C) FA: C Bester 2002
9. Second Wind P1:4c/12 ; P2: 15/5a (9B,C); (10B,C) FA: S Brown 2002
10. Pass Wind 5c/17 (8B,C) FA: S Brown 2002
11. Forever and One 6a/18 (11B,C) FA: D Marshal 2002
12. Hannah's Wine Tour 6a+/20 (9B,C) FA: M Rehm 2002
13. Mad Dogs In A Meat Shop 7a/24+ (10B,C) FA: S. Brown. Dec. 2003.
14. Your Turn to Break Free 6a/19 (7B,C) FA: D Marshal 2002
15. Future World 6a+/20 (7B,C) FA: D Marshal 2002
16. Mission Motherland 6b+/22 (8B,C) FA: D Marshal 2002 #16,#17,#18 are not in this picture - they are on little separate crag to the right.
17. Steel Tormentor 6a+/20 (8B,C) FA: D Marshal 2002 #16,#17,#18 are not in this picture - they are on little separate crag to the right.
18. Kings will be Kings 6a/19 (9B,C) FA: D Marshal 2003 #16,#17,#18 are not in this picture - they are on little separate crag to the right.



Forest Crag

Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Aspect: Morning Shade/Afternoon Sun.
Walk-in time: 30 minutes
To get to Forest, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed.
20090315 IMG 4348 forest.jpg

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 HB Brett 13 6 Bolts Dave Glass 2000 Route on the buttress to the left in front of forest crag
2 With a herring 16 6 Bolts Dave Glass 2000 furthest left route at the top of the crag
3 Redwood 18 8 Bolts Patrick McCann 2000
4 Bateleur 21 9 Bolts Patrick McCann 2000
5 Made Marian 17 10 Bolts Brett Hochfeld 2000
6 Forest Gump 19 9 Bolts Stuart Brown 2000
7 Free Radical 18 10 Bolts Patrick McCann 2000
8 Rapunzel 19 9 Bolts Adele McCann 2000 First Route on right of forest crag



Twin Fins

Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Aspect: Morning Sun/Afternoon Shade.
Walk-in time: 30 minutes
To get to Twin Fins, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed. the walk off to Forest will be to your left, but you walk right past a large boulder and then up to Twin Fins straight ahead of you.
20050309 twinfins.jpg

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 The Sisterhood 25 10 Bolts ***** Paul Schlotfeldt 2000
2 Far Far Away 25 10 Bolts ***** Paul Schlotfeldt 2000
3 Another Lonely Day 25 10 Bolts ***** Tinie Versveld 2000



Skull Crag

Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Aspect: Morning Shade/Afternoon Sun.
Walk in time: 50 mins. (Long walk but TOTALLY worth it. This crag is awesome)
To get to Skull, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed. The walk off to Forest will be to your left, but you walk right past a large boulder and then up to Twin Fins straight ahead of you And then you walk past twin fins on the right side of the kloof all the way to the top.
20020419 skull.jpg

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 L'Abraxas for Dummies 22 10 Bolts Pete Becker 2004 The route on the furthest left top of the crag
2 Comrade Turtlehead 21 12 Bolts Pete Becker 2004
3 King Tut 23 12 Bolts Mike Roberts 2000
4 Big Sky 18 13 Bolts Patrick McCann 2000
5 Feliz 22 15 Bolts Pete Becker 2004
6 Old Style 21 21 15 Bolts Mike Roberts 2000
7 Screech of the Bald Eagle 22 15 Bolts Mike Roberts 2000
8 Dem Bones 22 18 Bolts Patrick McCann 2000 The first route on the far right of the crag
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