Difference between revisions of "Bosch Kloof"
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You MUST park outside the gate by the main road (R62). DO NOT under any circumstances drive in and park directly at the Legoland crag. You may obviously drive in if you are staying over night at the Tolhuis. This crag is on private land and climbing there is by permission of the land owner, so please respect the rules. The land owner has forbidden access the the crags in Bosch Kloof. | You MUST park outside the gate by the main road (R62). DO NOT under any circumstances drive in and park directly at the Legoland crag. You may obviously drive in if you are staying over night at the Tolhuis. This crag is on private land and climbing there is by permission of the land owner, so please respect the rules. The land owner has forbidden access the the crags in Bosch Kloof. | ||
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+ | |||
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= How to get there = | = How to get there = | ||
<b>From Ashton/Cape Town direction:</b> The large gravel parking area is just before the first bridge on the right.<br> | <b>From Ashton/Cape Town direction:</b> The large gravel parking area is just before the first bridge on the right.<br> | ||
− | <b>From Montagu direction:</b> Drive towards Ashton/Cape Town, about 1km after the tunnel you will see the large gravel parking area on your left just over the bridge. | + | <b>From Montagu direction:</b> Drive towards Ashton/Cape Town, about 1km after the tunnel you will see the large gravel parking area on your left just over the bridge. |
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+ | |||
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+ | = Trash and Toilets = | ||
+ | There are no trash cans at the crag, so take your own trash bag with you & take all your trash home (this includes cigarette bugs, tendon tape, toilet paper, plastic bottles, sweet wrappers... you get the point (we hope). | ||
+ | There are no toilets at or near the crags. So if you must pee, go far away from the crag and far away from the river. Do not leave any toilet paper. And (as gross as it may seem) please bag your poo. | ||
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Line 28: | Line 41: | ||
= Bosch Kloof Climbing Map = | = Bosch Kloof Climbing Map = | ||
<display_points type="satellite" height="500"> | <display_points type="satellite" height="500"> | ||
− | -33.813778, 20.091539|[[#Legoland]] | + | -33.814026,20.090614|Parking|Do NOT drive in & DO NOT block the gate|Parking.png |
− | -33.814223, 20.089030|[[#The Far Side]] | + | -33.813778, 20.091539|[[#Legoland]]||Climbing.png |
− | -33.814130, 20.099668|[[#Forest Crag]] | + | -33.814223, 20.089030|[[#The Far Side]]||Climbing.png |
− | -33.814506, 20.100920|[[#Twin Fins]] | + | -33.814130, 20.099668|[[#Forest Crag]]|<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span>|Climbing.png |
− | -33.814052, 20.097529|[[#Hilti Crag]] | + | -33.814506, 20.100920|[[#Twin Fins]]|<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span>|Climbing.png |
− | -33.812413, 20.097465|[[#Ramset Crag]] | + | -33.814052, 20.097529|[[#Hilti Crag]]|<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span>|Climbing.png |
− | -33.813149, 20.096663|[[#Bosch Crag]] | + | -33.812413, 20.097465|[[#Ramset Crag]]|<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span>|Climbing.png |
− | -33.813309, 20.101642|[[#Skull Crag]] | + | -33.813149, 20.096663|[[#Bosch Crag]]|<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span>|Climbing.png |
− | -33.809996, 20.098951|[[#Matrix]] | + | -33.813309, 20.101642|[[#Skull Crag]]|<span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span>|Climbing.png |
+ | -33.809996, 20.098951|[[#Matrix]]||Climbing.png | ||
+ | -33.814601,20.09335|[[#The Panel Crags]]||Climbing.png | ||
-33.811933, 20.094853|Entrance to Bosch Kloof | -33.811933, 20.094853|Entrance to Bosch Kloof | ||
</display_points> | </display_points> | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | |||
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Line 48: | Line 67: | ||
== Legoland == | == Legoland == | ||
− | + | Legoland is Montagu's most popular climbing area due to the easier grade of routes and quick access.<br /> | |
− | + | Legoland is child friendly and dogs are allowed. <br /> | |
− | Legoland is child friendly and dogs are allowed. | + | Vertical, 30 second flat walk, Early morning shade & Late Afternoon shade <br /> |
[[File:Legoland-far-left.jpg]] | [[File:Legoland-far-left.jpg]] | ||
+ | [[File:20111124 LEGOLAND EDDY.jpg]] | ||
[[File:Legoland-chocolate.jpg]] | [[File:Legoland-chocolate.jpg]] | ||
[[File:Legoland-far-right.jpg]] | [[File:Legoland-far-right.jpg]] | ||
Line 73: | Line 93: | ||
| | | | ||
|Montagu Rock Adventures 2000 | |Montagu Rock Adventures 2000 | ||
− | | | + | |This is the furthest left route (#1). Located around the east facing corner. |
|- | |- | ||
|2 | |2 | ||
Line 81: | Line 101: | ||
| | | | ||
|Montagu Rock Adventures 2000 | |Montagu Rock Adventures 2000 | ||
− | | | + | |Same start as #1- I Tink Not but climbs to the chains of #3 - I Bewieve So Direct |
|- | |- | ||
|3 | |3 | ||
Line 95: | Line 115: | ||
|17 | |17 | ||
|9 | |9 | ||
− | | | + | |***** |
|Deon Knipe 2003 | |Deon Knipe 2003 | ||
− | | | + | |#4. #5. #6 share the same start. #4 climbs the left route and has it's own top anchors. |
|- | |- | ||
|5 | |5 | ||
Line 103: | Line 123: | ||
|17 | |17 | ||
|7 | |7 | ||
− | | | + | |***** |
|Stuart Brown 2003 | |Stuart Brown 2003 | ||
− | | | + | |#4. #5. #6 share the same start. #5 climbs to the anchors of #6. |
|- | |- | ||
|6 | |6 | ||
Line 111: | Line 131: | ||
|19 | |19 | ||
|7 | |7 | ||
− | | | + | |***** |
|Tony Lourens 1993 | |Tony Lourens 1993 | ||
− | | | + | |#4. #5. #6 share the same start. #6 climbs the right route and has it's own top anchors. |
|- | |- | ||
|7 | |7 | ||
Line 119: | Line 139: | ||
|19 | |19 | ||
|6 | |6 | ||
− | | | + | |***** |
|Derek Marshall 2003 | |Derek Marshall 2003 | ||
− | | | + | |Climb up the arete |
|- | |- | ||
|8 | |8 | ||
Line 127: | Line 147: | ||
|21 | |21 | ||
|11 | |11 | ||
− | | | + | |**** |
|Tony Lourens 1997 | |Tony Lourens 1997 | ||
− | | | + | |Long route in the dark corner. 60 meter rope required! |
|- | |- | ||
|9 | |9 | ||
Line 137: | Line 157: | ||
| | | | ||
|John Terblanche 1998 | |John Terblanche 1998 | ||
− | | | + | |Climb under the BIG overhang onto the face |
|- | |- | ||
|10 | |10 | ||
Line 145: | Line 165: | ||
| | | | ||
|John Terblanche 1998 | |John Terblanche 1998 | ||
− | | | + | |Climb up the ramp and onto the face |
|- | |- | ||
|11 | |11 | ||
Line 151: | Line 171: | ||
|18 | |18 | ||
|8 | |8 | ||
− | | | + | |**** |
|Stuart Brown | |Stuart Brown | ||
− | | | + | |Climb up into and through the crack under the shady nook to the left of Eddy. |
|- | |- | ||
|12 | |12 | ||
Line 159: | Line 179: | ||
|24 | |24 | ||
|4 | |4 | ||
− | | | + | |***** |
|Prof. Steve Bradshaw 1993 | |Prof. Steve Bradshaw 1993 | ||
− | | | + | |Classic grade 24 testpiece. Short & Powerful |
|- | |- | ||
|13 | |13 | ||
Line 169: | Line 189: | ||
| | | | ||
|Craig Bruton 1998 | |Craig Bruton 1998 | ||
− | | | + | |Not the most popular climb at this crag. Careful belaying is advised. |
|- | |- | ||
|14 | |14 | ||
Line 177: | Line 197: | ||
| | | | ||
|Ed February 1994 | |Ed February 1994 | ||
− | | | + | |Short & Powerful. Careful belaying is advised. |
|- | |- | ||
|15 | |15 | ||
Line 185: | Line 205: | ||
| | | | ||
|B Whitehead 2004 | |B Whitehead 2004 | ||
− | | | + | |Powerful finishing move at the end. |
|- | |- | ||
|16 | |16 | ||
Line 199: | Line 219: | ||
|18 | |18 | ||
|6 | |6 | ||
− | | | + | |***** |
|Guy Holwill 1993 | |Guy Holwill 1993 | ||
− | | | + | |Classic grade 18 test piece. |
|- | |- | ||
|18 | |18 | ||
Line 207: | Line 227: | ||
|15 | |15 | ||
|5 | |5 | ||
− | | | + | |***** |
− | |Guy Holwill 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. | + | |Guy Holwill 1993. <br />20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 216: | Line 236: | ||
|6 | |6 | ||
| | | | ||
− | |Guy Holwill 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. | + | |Guy Holwill 1993. <br />20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 224: | Line 244: | ||
|4 | |4 | ||
| | | | ||
− | |Guy Holwill 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. | + | |Guy Holwill 1993. <br />20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 232: | Line 252: | ||
|4 | |4 | ||
| | | | ||
− | |Guy Holwill 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. | + | |Guy Holwill 1993. <br />20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 240: | Line 260: | ||
|5 | |5 | ||
| | | | ||
− | |Beth Higgins 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. | + | |Beth Higgins 1993. <br />20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 248: | Line 268: | ||
|6 | |6 | ||
| | | | ||
− | |Nick Matthews 1994. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. | + | |Nick Matthews 1994. <br />20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
− | | | + | |The first route on the right hand side of the crag. |
|} | |} | ||
[[File:Legoland203 0373.jpg]] | [[File:Legoland203 0373.jpg]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | |||
== The Far Side == | == The Far Side == | ||
The Far Side is on the opposite side of the road (R62). Park in the parking area before Legoland and walk over the bridge (river) towards Montagu, then jump over the small fence to walk to the crag ahead of you on your right.<br /> | The Far Side is on the opposite side of the road (R62). Park in the parking area before Legoland and walk over the bridge (river) towards Montagu, then jump over the small fence to walk to the crag ahead of you on your right.<br /> | ||
+ | Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.<br /> | ||
+ | Walk-in time: 5 minutes<br /> | ||
[[File:20111124 farside.jpg]]<br /> | [[File:20111124 farside.jpg]]<br /> | ||
Routes from Left to Right | Routes from Left to Right | ||
Line 281: | Line 306: | ||
|22 | |22 | ||
|(7B) | |(7B) | ||
− | | | + | |***** |
− | |FA: AdK 1994 | + | |FA: AdK 1994<br /> Nov 2011. Retro-bolted By J Lawson & M Wiswedel |
− | + | |Classic Grade 22 test piece. Excellent route! | |
|- | |- | ||
|3. | |3. | ||
Line 299: | Line 324: | ||
== The Panel Crags == | == The Panel Crags == | ||
− | The Panel crags are high up on the hill above Legoland. To get to the crags, walk past Legoland and then up the steep hill to the crags above. | + | The Panel crags are high up on the hill above Legoland. This crag is less popular due to the steep walk-in. To get to the crags, walk past Legoland and then up the steep hill to the crags above.<br /> |
+ | Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.<br /> | ||
+ | Walk-in time: 20 minutes<br /> | ||
+ | [[File:20030713 panel.jpg]]<br /> | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 316: | Line 344: | ||
| | | | ||
|Steve Downing 1996 | |Steve Downing 1996 | ||
− | | | + | |The overhanging climb on the far left. |
|- | |- | ||
|2 | |2 | ||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
|The Trip | |The Trip | ||
|25 | |25 | ||
Line 334: | Line 354: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |3 |
|Cool Turkey | |Cool Turkey | ||
|23 | |23 | ||
Line 342: | Line 362: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |4 |
|Free Basing | |Free Basing | ||
|20 | |20 | ||
Line 350: | Line 370: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |5 |
|Mainline | |Mainline | ||
|22 | |22 | ||
Line 358: | Line 378: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |6 |
|Crackhead | |Crackhead | ||
|22 | |22 | ||
Line 365: | Line 385: | ||
|Steve Downing 1996 | |Steve Downing 1996 | ||
| | | | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | |7 | ||
+ | |Oros (Greek God of Orange Juice) | ||
+ | |19 | ||
+ | |7 Bolts | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | |O Keet 1996 | ||
+ | |The climb on separate wall on the far right. | ||
|} | |} | ||
Line 371: | Line 399: | ||
== Matrix == | == Matrix == | ||
− | + | This crag is less popular due to the long, unfrequented walk-in. | |
+ | Aspect: Morning Shade / Afternoon Sun.<br /> | ||
+ | Walk-in time: 30 minutes<br /> | ||
+ | [[File:The matrix.jpg]]<br /> | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 428: | Line 459: | ||
| | | | ||
|Andy Davies 2004 | |Andy Davies 2004 | ||
− | | | + | | |
|- | |- | ||
|7 | |7 | ||
Line 443: | Line 474: | ||
== Bosch Crag == | == Bosch Crag == | ||
− | Climbing here is currently forbidden. | + | <span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span> |
+ | Bosch crag is one of the favorite crags in Montagu. A 60 meter rope is advisable.<br /> | ||
+ | Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.<br /> | ||
+ | Walk-in time: 15 minutes<br /> | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[File:20030928 bosch.jpg]]<br /><br /> | ||
− | [[Image:Gd_montaguboschcrag.jpg]] | + | [[Image:Gd_montaguboschcrag.jpg]]<br /> |
Aspect: Morning Sun/Afternoon Shade. | Aspect: Morning Sun/Afternoon Shade. | ||
Line 516: | Line 552: | ||
| | | | ||
|FA: S. Brown. Dec. 2003 | |FA: S. Brown. Dec. 2003 | ||
− | |35m ! The route starts to the right of "Master Of Puppets" and crosses over at the fourth bolt and then carries on to the top of the crag. Lower to chains of "Me Or My Girl" | + | |35m ! The route starts to the right of "Master Of Puppets" and crosses over at the fourth bolt and then carries on to the top of the crag. Lower to chains of "Me Or My Girl". A 70 meter rope is advisable. You can get down on a 60 if the belayer moves up to the ledge on the right. |
|- | |- | ||
|8. | |8. | ||
Line 556: | Line 592: | ||
| | | | ||
|FA: J. Fisher, retro Bolted A. Davies. Dec. 2003 | |FA: J. Fisher, retro Bolted A. Davies. Dec. 2003 | ||
− | | | + | |The route furthest to the right. |
|} | |} | ||
Line 564: | Line 600: | ||
== Hilti Crag == | == Hilti Crag == | ||
− | Climbing here is currently forbidden.<br /> | + | <span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span><br /> |
− | Aspect: Morning Sun/Afternoon Shade.<br /> | + | Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.<br /> |
− | + | Walk-in time: 25 minutes<br /> | |
Hilti is the second crag on the right in the kloof (after Bosch). <br /> | Hilti is the second crag on the right in the kloof (after Bosch). <br /> | ||
Routes from Left to Right<br /> | Routes from Left to Right<br /> | ||
Line 633: | Line 669: | ||
== Ramset Crag == | == Ramset Crag == | ||
− | Climbing here is currently forbidden.<br /> | + | <span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span><br /> |
+ | Ramset crag is one of the favorite crags in Montagu. Great for early mornings & climbing till the sun comes over around noon. The easy double-pitch routes are excellent (comfortable) training ground for harder stuff. A 60 meter rope is advisable.<br /> | ||
Aspect: Morning Shade / Afternoon Sun<br /> | Aspect: Morning Shade / Afternoon Sun<br /> | ||
+ | Walk-in time: 20 minutes<br /> | ||
The first crag on the left as you walk up the kloof - it's opposite Bosch Crag.<br /> | The first crag on the left as you walk up the kloof - it's opposite Bosch Crag.<br /> | ||
− | [[File:20070106 ramset.jpg]]<br /> | + | [[File:20070106 ramset.jpg]]<br /><br /> |
− | [[Image:Gd_montaguramset.jpg]] | + | [[Image:Gd_montaguramset.jpg]]<br /> |
Line 777: | Line 815: | ||
| | | | ||
|FA: D Marshal 2002 | |FA: D Marshal 2002 | ||
− | | | + | |#16,#17,#18 are not in this picture - they are on little separate crag to the right. |
|- | |- | ||
|17. | |17. | ||
Line 785: | Line 823: | ||
| | | | ||
|FA: D Marshal 2002 | |FA: D Marshal 2002 | ||
− | | | + | |#16,#17,#18 are not in this picture - they are on little separate crag to the right. |
|- | |- | ||
|18. | |18. | ||
Line 793: | Line 831: | ||
| | | | ||
|FA: D Marshal 2003 | |FA: D Marshal 2003 | ||
− | | | + | |#16,#17,#18 are not in this picture - they are on little separate crag to the right. |
|} | |} | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | |||
== Forest Crag == | == Forest Crag == | ||
− | Climbing here is currently forbidden.<br /> | + | <span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span><br /> |
Aspect: Morning Shade/Afternoon Sun.<br /> | Aspect: Morning Shade/Afternoon Sun.<br /> | ||
+ | Walk-in time: 30 minutes<br /> | ||
To get to Forest, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed.<br /> | To get to Forest, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed.<br /> | ||
[[File:20090315 IMG 4348 forest.jpg]] | [[File:20090315 IMG 4348 forest.jpg]] | ||
Line 881: | Line 924: | ||
== Twin Fins == | == Twin Fins == | ||
− | Climbing here is currently forbidden.<br /> | + | <span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span><br /> |
Aspect: Morning Sun/Afternoon Shade.<br /> | Aspect: Morning Sun/Afternoon Shade.<br /> | ||
+ | Walk-in time: 30 minutes<br /> | ||
To get to Twin Fins, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed. the walk off to Forest will be to your left, but you walk right past a large boulder and then up to Twin Fins straight ahead of you.<br /> | To get to Twin Fins, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed. the walk off to Forest will be to your left, but you walk right past a large boulder and then up to Twin Fins straight ahead of you.<br /> | ||
[[File:20050309 twinfins.jpg]] | [[File:20050309 twinfins.jpg]] | ||
Line 924: | Line 968: | ||
== Skull Crag == | == Skull Crag == | ||
− | Climbing here is currently forbidden.<br /> | + | <span style="color:red">Climbing here is currently forbidden.</span><br /> |
Aspect: Morning Shade/Afternoon Sun.<br /> | Aspect: Morning Shade/Afternoon Sun.<br /> | ||
Walk in time: 50 mins. (Long walk but TOTALLY worth it. This crag is awesome)<br /> | Walk in time: 50 mins. (Long walk but TOTALLY worth it. This crag is awesome)<br /> |
Revision as of 08:17, 14 November 2012
>> Back to Montagu main page
Contents
IMPORTANT
Please note: The whole of Bosch Kloof is closed until further notice Posted 24 March 2010
Access is being negotiated, if you choose to sneak in for a climb, you will be putting future access at risk.
NB: The owner of the Tolhuis Accommodation does not own the land on which any of these crags are situated.
All of the crags descibed below are on private land and climbing beyond Legoland & The Far Side & The Panel has been forbidden by the land owner since March 2010, so please respect the rules.
You MAY climb at: Legoland & The Far Side & The Panel
For now, Please NO Climbing at: Bosch, Ramset, Hilti, Forest, Twin Fins, Skull
You MUST park outside the gate by the main road (R62). DO NOT under any circumstances drive in and park directly at the Legoland crag. You may obviously drive in if you are staying over night at the Tolhuis. This crag is on private land and climbing there is by permission of the land owner, so please respect the rules. The land owner has forbidden access the the crags in Bosch Kloof.
How to get there
From Ashton/Cape Town direction: The large gravel parking area is just before the first bridge on the right.
From Montagu direction: Drive towards Ashton/Cape Town, about 1km after the tunnel you will see the large gravel parking area on your left just over the bridge.
Trash and Toilets
There are no trash cans at the crag, so take your own trash bag with you & take all your trash home (this includes cigarette bugs, tendon tape, toilet paper, plastic bottles, sweet wrappers... you get the point (we hope). There are no toilets at or near the crags. So if you must pee, go far away from the crag and far away from the river. Do not leave any toilet paper. And (as gross as it may seem) please bag your poo.
Cell Phone Reception
There is no cellphone reception at any of these crags.
Bosch Kloof Climbing Map
Bosch Kloof Crags
Legoland
Legoland is Montagu's most popular climbing area due to the easier grade of routes and quick access.
Legoland is child friendly and dogs are allowed.
Vertical, 30 second flat walk, Early morning shade & Late Afternoon shade
Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1 | I Tink Not | 12 | 6 | Montagu Rock Adventures 2000 | This is the furthest left route (#1). Located around the east facing corner. | |
2 | I Bewieve So | 16 | 7 | Montagu Rock Adventures 2000 | Same start as #1- I Tink Not but climbs to the chains of #3 - I Bewieve So Direct | |
3 | I Bewieve So Direct | 16 | 7 | Jason Temple-Forbes 2002 | ||
4 | The Rope Man | 17 | 9 | ***** | Deon Knipe 2003 | #4. #5. #6 share the same start. #4 climbs the left route and has it's own top anchors. |
5 | The Missing Link | 17 | 7 | ***** | Stuart Brown 2003 | #4. #5. #6 share the same start. #5 climbs to the anchors of #6. |
6 | Hey, Come On | 19 | 7 | ***** | Tony Lourens 1993 | #4. #5. #6 share the same start. #6 climbs the right route and has it's own top anchors. |
7 | Persitence of Time | 19 | 6 | ***** | Derek Marshall 2003 | Climb up the arete |
8 | Bon Giorno Bambina | 21 | 11 | **** | Tony Lourens 1997 | Long route in the dark corner. 60 meter rope required! |
9 | Bolt Your Bitch | 22 | 3 | John Terblanche 1998 | Climb under the BIG overhang onto the face | |
10 | Slap and Tickle | 21 | 3 | John Terblanche 1998 | Climb up the ramp and onto the face | |
11 | Crack Baby | 18 | 8 | **** | Stuart Brown | Climb up into and through the crack under the shady nook to the left of Eddy. |
12 | Eddy of Bovidence | 24 | 4 | ***** | Prof. Steve Bradshaw 1993 | Classic grade 24 testpiece. Short & Powerful |
13 | Cheapskate Student | 24 | 4 | Craig Bruton 1998 | Not the most popular climb at this crag. Careful belaying is advised. | |
14 | Cleinous Hing | 24 | 4 | Ed February 1994 | Short & Powerful. Careful belaying is advised. | |
15 | Baboons on the Roof | 21 | 4 | B Whitehead 2004 | Powerful finishing move at the end. | |
16 | Caramel Roller Coaster | 17 | 6 | Stuart Brown 2004 | ||
17 | Chocolate Speedway | 18 | 6 | ***** | Guy Holwill 1993 | Classic grade 18 test piece. |
18 | Life and Times of Mike Hunt | 15 | 5 | ***** | Guy Holwill 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
|
19 | Not with New Brim | 15 | 6 | Guy Holwill 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
||
20 | Oh My Goodness | 18 | 4 | Guy Holwill 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
||
21 | Mild Thing | 15 | 4 | Guy Holwill 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
||
22 | Easy Does It | 16 | 5 | Beth Higgins 1993. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
||
23 | Pipe Dreams | 18 | 6 | Nick Matthews 1994. 20050421 Stuart Brown replaced top anchors. |
The first route on the right hand side of the crag. |
The Far Side
The Far Side is on the opposite side of the road (R62). Park in the parking area before Legoland and walk over the bridge (river) towards Montagu, then jump over the small fence to walk to the crag ahead of you on your right.
Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.
Walk-in time: 5 minutes
Routes from Left to Right
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS) | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Cow Poetry | 23 | (7B) | FA: K Donald 1995 | ||
2. | Route Number One | 22 | (7B) | ***** | FA: AdK 1994 Nov 2011. Retro-bolted By J Lawson & M Wiswedel |
Classic Grade 22 test piece. Excellent route! |
3. | Skinny Legs and All | 23 | (6B) | FA: P Becker 1995 |
The Panel Crags
The Panel crags are high up on the hill above Legoland. This crag is less popular due to the steep walk-in. To get to the crags, walk past Legoland and then up the steep hill to the crags above.
Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.
Walk-in time: 20 minutes
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1 | Like Lams | 24 | 10 Bolts | Steve Downing 1996 | The overhanging climb on the far left. | |
2 | The Trip | 25 | 9 Bolts | Steve Downing 1996 | ||
3 | Cool Turkey | 23 | 9 Bolts | Steve Downing 1996 | ||
4 | Free Basing | 20 | 8 Bolts | Steve Downing 1996 | ||
5 | Mainline | 22 | 9 Bolts | Steve Downing 1996 | ||
6 | Crackhead | 22 | 9 Bolts | Steve Downing 1996 | ||
7 | Oros (Greek God of Orange Juice) | 19 | 7 Bolts | O Keet 1996 | The climb on separate wall on the far right. |
Matrix
This crag is less popular due to the long, unfrequented walk-in.
Aspect: Morning Shade / Afternoon Sun.
Walk-in time: 30 minutes
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1 | Trust Me | 22 | 12 Bolts | Stuart Brown 2004 | The route on the furthest left of the crag | |
2 | Ray Charles | 20 | 10 Bolts | Andy Davies 2004 | ||
3 | Stevie Wonder | 22 | 10 Bolts | Andy Davies 2004 | ||
4 | Red Pill Blue Pill | 23 | 11 Bolts | Malcolm Gowans 2002 | ||
5 | Suspended Animation | 24 | 8 Bolts | Stuart Brown 2004 | ||
6 | Codger Reloaded | 24 | 10 Bolts | Andy Davies 2004 | ||
7 | Reality Check | 21 | 11 Bolts | LLoyd Turner 2002 | The route on the furthest right of the crag |
Bosch Crag
Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Bosch crag is one of the favorite crags in Montagu. A 60 meter rope is advisable.
Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.
Walk-in time: 15 minutes
Aspect: Morning Sun/Afternoon Shade. 15 mins walk. Walk past Legoland and up the kloof. Bosch is the first crag on the right in the kloof.
Routes from Left to Right
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS) | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Just Another Roof | 6b/20 | (7B,C) | FA: J. Fisher. 1992 | ||
2. | Never Say Goodbybe | 7b+/26 | (6B,C) | FA: J. Fisher. 1992 | ||
3. | Latin Lessons | 6b+/21 | (10B,C) | FA: J. Fisher. 1992 | ||
4. | Partners in Crime | 6c+/24 | (7B,C) | FA: S. Maasch. 1992 | ||
5. | Me or My Girl | 6b+/21 | (9B,C) | FA: S. Maasch. 1992 | ||
6. | Master of Puppets | 6a+/19 | (10B,C) | FA: S. Maasch. 1992 | ||
7. | Beg, Borrow Or Steal Aka"Puppets On A Staaldraad" | 6b+/22 | (19B, C) | FA: S. Brown. Dec. 2003 | 35m ! The route starts to the right of "Master Of Puppets" and crosses over at the fourth bolt and then carries on to the top of the crag. Lower to chains of "Me Or My Girl". A 70 meter rope is advisable. You can get down on a 60 if the belayer moves up to the ledge on the right. | |
8. | Something Nowhere | 6b+/22 | (6B,C) | FA: J. Fisher. 1992 | ||
9. | Sanatorium | 6a+/19 | (8B,C) | FA: S. Maasch. 1992 | ||
10. | Trille In Die Bos | 20/6a+ | (9B,C) | FA: A. Davies. Dec. 2003 | The route starts to the right of "Sanatorium", bouldery start, named after Rudolfs boys. | |
11. | Clashing Ego's | 20 | (N,C) | FA: J. Fisher. 1992 | ||
12. | Nice Boys Don't Play Rock And Roll | 7a+/24 | (6B,C) | FA: J. Fisher, retro Bolted A. Davies. Dec. 2003 | The route furthest to the right. |
Hilti Crag
Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Aspect: Morning Sun / Afternoon Shade.
Walk-in time: 25 minutes
Hilti is the second crag on the right in the kloof (after Bosch).
Routes from Left to Right
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS) | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | The Fertilizer King | 21 | ||||
2. | Rockerfella | 23 | ||||
3. | Rastas | 21 | ||||
4. | Finger Fantasy | 24 | ||||
5. | Wonderlust | 26 | ||||
6. | Drill Thrill | 25/26 | Jamie Smith 2008 |
Ramset Crag
Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Ramset crag is one of the favorite crags in Montagu. Great for early mornings & climbing till the sun comes over around noon. The easy double-pitch routes are excellent (comfortable) training ground for harder stuff. A 60 meter rope is advisable.
Aspect: Morning Shade / Afternoon Sun
Walk-in time: 20 minutes
The first crag on the left as you walk up the kloof - it's opposite Bosch Crag.
Routes from Left to Right
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS) | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Better Than Raw | 6b+/21 | (6B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2003 | ||
2. | Pink Bubbles Go Ape | 6c/22 | (10B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2001 | ||
3. | Masters of Rings | 6b+/21 | (14B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2001. 2008 Justin Lawson moved one of the top anchor rings to avoid rope twisting. | 60 meter rope needed & put knot in the end of the rope! | |
4. | Time of Oath | 6b/20 | (10B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2001 | ||
5. | Keeper of the Seven Rings | 6a+/19 | (8B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2001 | ||
6. | Beating Around the Bush | P1: 16/5a ; P2 16/5a | (10B,C) ; (10B,C) | FA: S Brown 2003 | ||
7. | Shot Down in Flames | 5b/17 | (10B,C) | FA: S Brown 2003 | ||
8. | Return of the War Lord | 4b/13 | (9B,C) | FA: C Bester 2002 | ||
9. | Second Wind | P1:4c/12 ; P2: 15/5a | (9B,C); (10B,C) | FA: S Brown 2002 | ||
10. | Pass Wind | 5c/17 | (8B,C) | FA: S Brown 2002 | ||
11. | Forever and One | 6a/18 | (11B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2002 | ||
12. | Hannah's Wine Tour | 6a+/20 | (9B,C) | FA: M Rehm 2002 | ||
13. | Mad Dogs In A Meat Shop | 7a/24+ | (10B,C) | FA: S. Brown. Dec. 2003. | ||
14. | Your Turn to Break Free | 6a/19 | (7B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2002 | ||
15. | Future World | 6a+/20 | (7B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2002 | ||
16. | Mission Motherland | 6b+/22 | (8B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2002 | #16,#17,#18 are not in this picture - they are on little separate crag to the right. | |
17. | Steel Tormentor | 6a+/20 | (8B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2002 | #16,#17,#18 are not in this picture - they are on little separate crag to the right. | |
18. | Kings will be Kings | 6a/19 | (9B,C) | FA: D Marshal 2003 | #16,#17,#18 are not in this picture - they are on little separate crag to the right. |
Forest Crag
Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Aspect: Morning Shade/Afternoon Sun.
Walk-in time: 30 minutes
To get to Forest, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1 | HB Brett | 13 | 6 Bolts | Dave Glass 2000 | Route on the buttress to the left in front of forest crag | |
2 | With a herring | 16 | 6 Bolts | Dave Glass 2000 | furthest left route at the top of the crag | |
3 | Redwood | 18 | 8 Bolts | Patrick McCann 2000 | ||
4 | Bateleur | 21 | 9 Bolts | Patrick McCann 2000 | ||
5 | Made Marian | 17 | 10 Bolts | Brett Hochfeld 2000 | ||
6 | Forest Gump | 19 | 9 Bolts | Stuart Brown 2000 | ||
7 | Free Radical | 18 | 10 Bolts | Patrick McCann 2000 | ||
8 | Rapunzel | 19 | 9 Bolts | Adele McCann 2000 | First Route on right of forest crag |
Twin Fins
Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Aspect: Morning Sun/Afternoon Shade.
Walk-in time: 30 minutes
To get to Twin Fins, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed. the walk off to Forest will be to your left, but you walk right past a large boulder and then up to Twin Fins straight ahead of you.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1 | The Sisterhood | 25 | 10 Bolts | ***** | Paul Schlotfeldt 2000 | |
2 | Far Far Away | 25 | 10 Bolts | ***** | Paul Schlotfeldt 2000 | |
3 | Another Lonely Day | 25 | 10 Bolts | ***** | Tinie Versveld 2000 |
Skull Crag
Climbing here is currently forbidden.
Aspect: Morning Shade/Afternoon Sun.
Walk in time: 50 mins. (Long walk but TOTALLY worth it. This crag is awesome)
To get to Skull, you walk past Bosch & Hilti and cross over the kloof by the rocky river bed. The walk off to Forest will be to your left, but you walk right past a large boulder and then up to Twin Fins straight ahead of you And then you walk past twin fins on the right side of the kloof all the way to the top.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1 | L'Abraxas for Dummies | 22 | 10 Bolts | Pete Becker 2004 | The route on the furthest left top of the crag | |
2 | Comrade Turtlehead | 21 | 12 Bolts | Pete Becker 2004 | ||
3 | King Tut | 23 | 12 Bolts | Mike Roberts 2000 | ||
4 | Big Sky | 18 | 13 Bolts | Patrick McCann 2000 | ||
5 | Feliz | 22 | 15 Bolts | Pete Becker 2004 | ||
6 | Old Style 21 | 21 | 15 Bolts | Mike Roberts 2000 | ||
7 | Screech of the Bald Eagle | 22 | 15 Bolts | Mike Roberts 2000 | ||
8 | Dem Bones | 22 | 18 Bolts | Patrick McCann 2000 | The first route on the far right of the crag |