|Season||All year round|
CBD Bright Light Boulders is a fun little area on the slopes just above Table Mountain Road. It's ideal for having an after work session and enjoying a variety of good problems in the lower grade range. A night session will reward you with a spectacular view of the city and an illuminated mountain.
Thanks to Simon Müller and Steve Koehorst for info and pics.
A: Warm Up Boulder
- A1 Dart (5)
SS, LH in rail, RH in pocket. Climb the crack, T.O.
- A2 Drat (5)
SS, RH in rail, LH in good sidepull. Climb crack, T.O.
- A3 P. L. Travers (5)
SS, start at jugs at LHS of rail. Traverse right along rail.
- A4 Trad Traverse (6B)
SDS, BH on big shelf, climb up and right on crimps. erse right via the undercling until the obvious shelf on the RHS. T.O. along the vertical crack above the shelf. ( you can also climb from A3 into A4, or traverese around the whole boulder like a real traddie).
B: Slab Boulder
- B1 Han Solo (4)
SS, climb the centre of the slab via the obvious dent. A few notches harder hands-free.
- B2 Counterproductive (6B)
SS, start with good crimps, RH up to pinch on the Arête, LH up to the lip.
- B3 Counterproductive-Sit (6C)
SDS to B2, start at the Arête. RH on flat hold. LH on crimp, climb around the corner via bad crimp to join B2.
- Stay with it (6C)
Start on slopey Arête with RH, traverse L staying low through bulge, T.O.
- B4 Einhorn (6A)
SS, start on opposing side pulls on either side of Arête. Climb left along the lip, T.O. at the obvious high point.
- B5 Floodlight (6A)
SDS, LH in pocket, RH on crimp. Climb right along the lip. T.O. as for B4. (Use the holds on the lip only. Easier version if good holds on slab are used).
C: Slopey Sam Boulder
- C1 Black Widow (6B):
SDS, LH in good side pull, RH on good crimp. LH up in vertical crack, RH to crimp on the right, T.O.
- C2 Motion of the Ocean ***(6B):
Start as for C1, RH up to sloping pocket, LH around bulge to sloper, climb left on sloping edge and T.O. via crimp in center of slab.
- ? Hazard a Guess ** 6B+, FA SK. SDS with BH low, feet on low ramp. Confident standup reaches the slopey rail to your surprise
continue keeping even pressure over the slopey knife edge to TO.
- C3 Slopey Sam (6A):
SS on jugs LHS of edge. Climb right along the sloping edge, RH up to good pinch, T.O. ignoring the holds on RHS of arete.
- C4 (xx):
SDS, climb the arete on crimps. ( Never saw anybody climbing it, but I think it has potential)
D: The Nooner Boulder
- D1 Afternoon Delight (7A)
SDS, start on big flat hold on the Arête. Traverse left on the sloping shelves. Climb left around the corner via slot and climb the face to T.O.
- D2 Afternoon Delight Reverse (7A)
SDS, start on the big edges to the right of the Arête. Climb right until the starting hold of D1, T.O. on jugs on the Arête.
- D3 Kung Fu Flavour (6C)
SDS, LH on a crimp, RH on sloper below the big shelf. RH up to the shelf, LH to the shelf further left. RH up to crimp, LH to good edge, RH to dolphin-shaped crimp, T.O. via the Arête. (There is an easier version if you skip the first 2 hard moves and start as for D4)
- D4 The Nooner (7B+)
SDS, RH on crimp, LH on sloping shelf. RH up to good crimp, LH up to crimpy gaston, RH to slopey crimp, LH to crimpy gaston. T.O. on the flat hold on top of the boulder ignoring the Arête completely. (This problem is a bit of an eliminate) There is another version: Climb as above, RH up to the slopey crimp and pop up with your right to the Arête straight above the slopey crimp. T.O. as above. (This version might be a bit easier in the grade)
E: Purgatory Boulder
- E1 Purgatory (6C+)
SS, start BH on good edge, climb left and up to the
- E2 Damnation (6B)
Start as for E1, RH up to the poor undercling, climb
along the crack, T.O.
- E3 Silent Ann (7A)
SDS,climb the crimpy arete. Bad T.O.
- E4 Cross Purpose (7A)
SDS, start under the arete with hands on either
sides. Climb up and left to the sloping edge. Pull up to the next shelf and T.O.
- g Gehenna (3) FA: SK
SDS,climb the crimpy arete. Bad T.O. Beautiful slab
- f This call is for you: it's your life calling (5+) FA: S. Koehorst
SDS on face toward City, traverse low and right round corner staying low, continuing around towards e start until you can break up the slopey rail on the face orientated towards Lions Head. Other easy direct straight up routes exist from multiple points, grade 4's.
- e Maybe Today (6B+) FA: S. Koehorst
SDS low under corner, off the rocks. RH on good edge R of arete, LH at same level L of erete. Wrap LF on edge low and to left of arete, climb the corner using edges on both sides of arete to finish out R of arete and TO. Enjoy view from summit.
Sequence: Guy Holwill on Cross Purpose