Bronkies

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[[Image:Bronkies_rightside.JPG]]
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A view of the right side of Bronkies crag from across the river.
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== Getting there ==
 
== Getting there ==
  
 
From JHB:
 
From JHB:
* ''Either'' take the N1 north and then the N4 east (Witbank). Take the Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R25). Turn right to go south towards the R25. At the T-junction turn left onto the R25 towards Bronkhorstspruit. Then shortly thereafter, at the R42 junction to Delmas, turn right. After 3,8km at the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the right (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry). Turn right onto the dirt road.
+
* ''Either'' take the N1 north and then the N4 east (Witbank). Take the Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R25). Turn right to go south towards the R25. At the T-junction turn left onto the R25 towards Bronkhorstspruit. Then shortly thereafter, at the R42 junction to Delmas, turn right. After 3,8km at the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the right (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry - this is +- 500m further than where it used to be in the past). Turn right onto the dirt road. Due to the road works there are more than one parking area in use.
* ''Or'' take the N12 east (Witbank). Turn off at the Delmas, Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R42). Turn left and continue on for about 25Km passing the Bronkhorstspruit dam on the left. At the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the left (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry). Turn left onto the dirt road.  
+
* ''Or'' take the N12 east (Witbank). Turn off at the Delmas, Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R42). Turn left and continue on for about 25Km passing the Bronkhorstspruit dam on the left. Before the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the left (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry - this is +- 500m before the old turnoff). Turn left onto the dirt road. Due to the road works there are more than one parking area in use.  
 
+
Follow the dirt road, pass the main dwelling. Continue for another 500 metres. Parking on the right. If you continue on for another 400m, you will find a small road with additional parking at the end.
+
 
+
 
''(Original directions courtesy of [http://www.climb.co.za climb za])''
 
''(Original directions courtesy of [http://www.climb.co.za climb za])''
 
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== Access rules and arrangements ==
 
== Access rules and arrangements ==
 
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. The Mountain Club of South Africa has come to an agreement for access to this area for its members. Any individual making use of this access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below. Contact the Magaliesberg (Pretoria) or Johannesburg sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa in case of any query or doubt.
 
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. The Mountain Club of South Africa has come to an agreement for access to this area for its members. Any individual making use of this access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below. Contact the Magaliesberg (Pretoria) or Johannesburg sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa in case of any query or doubt.
 
Climbers should only visit the area on weekends and public holidays otherwise access during the week must be arranged directly with the owners.
 
  
 
Entrance fees are as follows:
 
Entrance fees are as follows:
Line 23: Line 17:
 
* R5 for children 12 years of age and below
 
* R5 for children 12 years of age and below
  
Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance. Follow the the dirt road and and stop "below" the main house at the cattle kraal. Someone will come out with the visitors book, otherwise the book can be found at the main house.  
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Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance. Someone will come out with the visitors book, otherwise the book can be found at the main house.  
  
 
Please note:
 
Please note:
Line 34: Line 28:
 
* Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
 
* Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
 
* Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
 
* Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
 +
* No fishing is allowed – climbing only (you may lunch picnic at the river though)
 
* '''NO FIRES''' are allowed
 
* '''NO FIRES''' are allowed
 
* Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site (no bolting area details below)
 
* Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site (no bolting area details below)
Line 42: Line 37:
 
* Respect other visitors
 
* Respect other visitors
 
* Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
 
* Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
 +
* No guns allowed
 
* In case of any accident / emergency call MCSA Mountain Search and Rescue on 074 125 1385 or alternatively 074 163 3952
 
* In case of any accident / emergency call MCSA Mountain Search and Rescue on 074 125 1385 or alternatively 074 163 3952
 
* Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above
 
* Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above
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|-
 
|-
 
|-
 
|-
|Tickled Pink ||13 * ||.||.||.
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|Tickled Pink ||12 *** ||.||.||Start around the corner to RANGER’s DELIGHT.  Move left onto this route after the second bolt.
 
|-
 
|-
|Ranger's Delight||14 ** ||.||.||.
+
|Ranger's Delight||14 ** ||.||.||Start left of the arête in the scoop. Intense start followed by easy climbing to the chains. First ascent: 2002 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
 
|-
 
|-
|Fragile Ego ||17 *** ||5D,A||.|| downgraded from 18
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|Fragile Ego ||17 *** ||5D,A||.|| Tricky move past the second bolt.  Aim for the big black block/roof above. First ascent: 2003 D. Margetts and G. Frost.
 
|-
 
|-
|Straight and Narrow||21 **||5D,A||.||.
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|Straight and Narrow||21 **||5D,A||.||To get this grade, stick to a line about 30cm left/right of the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Alternatively, move right into the corner at about grade 16.  This route is bolted with U-Bolts. First ascent: 2003 D. Margetts and N. Margetts.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|Gert's Project||.||.||.||.
 
|Gert's Project||.||.||.||.
 
|-
 
|-
|No More Freeloaders||15 ***||7D,A||.||.
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|Pom-Pom Dominatrix||20||6D,A|||| Takes the open book just right of No More Freeloaders and continues over the bulge at the top on to a small slab. It is possible to duck left at the top into a jam crack to avoid the crux (Pom-Pom option,17). 2013-06-01, Tony Seebregts, Peter Speed, Jaco Smuts.
 
|-
 
|-
|Fully||12 **||.||.||.
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|No More Freeloaders||15 ***||7D,A||.||Starts up some steep jug hauling before moving diagonally left up a break towards the chains. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
 
|-
 
|-
|Kief||11 **||7D,A||.||Beware of two large loose chockstone type rocks near the 4th bolt!!!!
+
|Pumpkin Time||18||4D,A||.|| Bolts sponsored by the MCSA JHB/MAG Section. Tony Seebregts,Peter Speed,Darrel Margetts.
 
|-
 
|-
|New route||8 ||.||.||very easy
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|Modern Warfare||21*||.||.||Very short and bouldery. Try stay strate in line with the bolts. Bolted by Darrel Margetts.
 
|-
 
|-
|New route||7 ||.||.||very easy
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|Fully||12 **||.||.||First ascent:2003 D. Margetts and G. Frost.
 
|-
 
|-
|Derek's Dilemma||20 ***||7D,A||.||Dilemma indeed, but fun once you work it out. Beware of loose flakey rock on right hand side between bolts 5 & 6.
+
|Kief||11 **||7D,A||.||Beware of two large loose chockstone type rocks near the 4th bolt!!!! First ascent:2003 D. Margetts and G. Frost.
 
|-
 
|-
|Austin's Mojo||15 ***||7D,A||.||downgraded from 16
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|Pumba's Delight||12 *||.||.||Upgraded from 8 (be fair to the new guys)
 
|-
 
|-
|Mini Me||17 ***||.||.||downgraded from 18
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|Maggies Nose||14 *||.||.||Upgraded from 7 (be fair to the new guys) - this route is not suitable for top roping due to excessive drag
 
|-
 
|-
|Rastus||18 **||.||.||.Upgraded from 17
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|When I was young I had this dilemma||20 ***||7D,A||.||Formerly known as as 'Derek's Dilemma' - Dilemma indeed, but fun once you work it out. Beware of loose flakey rock on right hand side between bolts 5 & 6.First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
 +
|-
 +
|Austin's Mojo||15 ***||7D,A||.||Climbs the left facing corner with 1m roof high up.  Not as hard as it looks. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
 +
|-
 +
|Mini Me||17 ***||.||.||Some fun moves near the top as the route breaks left through the roof. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
 +
|-
 +
|Rastus||18 *||.||.||.One move wonder through the roof. First ascent: 2003 D. Margetts and D. Taylor.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|Man's Best Friend||15 **||.||.||Trad.
 
|Man's Best Friend||15 **||.||.||Trad.
 
|-
 
|-
|The Fallen Boot||15 ***||.||.||.
+
|The Fallen Boot||15 ****||.||.||Climbs the right hand side of the scoop, following a crack system all the way to the top of the crag. Cool line with some nice exposure at the top. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
 
|-
 
|-
|Gunning for Crows||16 ***||.||.||downgraded from 17
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|Gunning for Crows||16 ***||.||.||Starts up the left hand side of a shallow scoop.  Delicate climbing past the second bolt takes you through a small overlap and onto a short, blank face.  Climb this, pull the overlap above and continue up the corner system above to reach the top of the crag. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
 
|-
 
|-
 
|George's Bush||20 ***||9D,A||23m||Cool start, chains been lowered to better position to avoid rope damage.
 
|George's Bush||20 ***||9D,A||23m||Cool start, chains been lowered to better position to avoid rope damage.
 
|-
 
|-
|Kate's Moss||17 ***||6D,A||.||.
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|Venus Fly Trap||17***||9D||.||New route, FA??BB??
 
|-
 
|-
|Joint Venture||22 ***||.||.||.
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|Kate's Moss||17 ***||6D,A||.||Climb a short corner system.  There is some green rock just right of this climb. Easy if you have good footwork, really hard if you don’t! First ascent: 2004 Gunther Bargon.
 
|-
 
|-
|Yellow Submarine||24 ***||.||20m  ||
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|Tom's Cruise||17**||8D||.||FA/BB Guenther Bargon.
 
|-
 
|-
|After Burn||26 ****||.||.||.
+
|Joint Venture||22 ***||11D||.||Climb diagonally left on the thin face past the obvious slope..  From the ledge, climb straight up through the roof above at an undercling/layback break.  The final overhang is easier if taken to the left.
 
|-
 
|-
|Once there were warriors AKA You Snooze, You Lose||25 ****||.||.||.
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|Yellow Submarine||24 ***||.||20m  ||Powerful start! Climb the overhanging groove with crux getting into the corner above.  Easy rock leads to roof crack with another hard move. Climb easily to top. First ascent: Andrew Porter.
 
|-
 
|-
|Rat Kid||25/26 ****||.||.||Additional bolt added to avoid ground fall.
+
|After Burn||26 ****||.||.||Hard start. Eases up after 2nd bolt. First ascent: 2004 R. & G. Lowther and C. Rudolph.
 
|-
 
|-
|Hairy Maclary (from Donaldson's Dairy)||18 ***||.||18m  ||Sandbagged
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|Once there were warriors AKA You Snooze, You Lose||25 ****||.||.||Cool route. Sustained line, definitely worth getting on. BB: R. Magg. First ascent: S. Bretherick.
 
|-
 
|-
|Mostly Harmless||21 ***||.||25m  ||.
+
|Rat Kid||25 ****||.||.||Cool route. Technical, facey start followed by an easy but pumpy finish.First ascent: Gary Lowther.
 
|-
 
|-
|Elton's John||21 ****||.||20m  ||.
+
|Black Pearl||27 ***||.||.||Starts with some technical face climbing up to a big roof where the fun begins! Bolted by Andreas Kiefer. First Ascent: 2012 David Wade.
 
|-
 
|-
|Blue Boots||14 **||.||15m ||.
+
|Hairy Maclary (from Donaldson's Dairy)||20 ***||.||18m  ||Fun and unconventional route. Interesting finish. First ascent: Gunther Bargon.
 
|-
 
|-
|Wild Apricot||15 ***||.||.||.
+
|Mostly Harmless||21 ***||.||25m  ||Climb the (often wet) corner system leading up to the roof.  The crux is to break through this to the chains. First ascent: Roland Magg.
 
|-
 
|-
|Naked Orange||21 ***||.||.||downgraded from 22
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|Elton's John||21 ****||13D||20m  ||Starts just right of MOSTLY HARMLESS. Long and sustained. First ascent: Roland Magg.
 
|-
 
|-
|Green Machine||18 ***||.||.||Grade adjusted from 19
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|Blue Boots||14 **||.||15m ||Starts 2m left of the large recess.  Moves left of the bulge above. First ascent: 2007 B. Frost.
 
|-
 
|-
|Footloose||25 *||5D ||.||Beware of the lead-out from the last hanger to the chains.
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|Wild Apricot||15 ***||.||.||Interesting start, eases up after 2nd bolt. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
 
|-
 
|-
|The Shining||25 **||6D ||.||.
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|Naked Orange||21 ***||.||.||A very thin start followed by some easier moves above the ledge.  Tricky move to reach the chains.First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
 
|-
 
|-
|Bruce||22 ||.||27m||Use a 60m rope for this one! Upgraded from 21
+
|Green Machine||18 ***||.||.||Very popular and long climb. Mostly good holds. Crux just before the chains.First ascent: 2003 D. Margetts and G. Frost.
 
|-
 
|-
|Rule Number One||22 ***||.||.||.
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|Footloose||25 **||5D ||.||For the boulderers! Short and powerfull! First ascent: 2005 Mark Seuring.
 
|-
 
|-
|Wasabi||24 ***||11D||.|| Look for the chains, chains ridiculously high, LONG runouts!!
+
|The Shining||25 **||6D ||.||Big move to a pinch, followed by some super small crimps. (Possibly the smallest crimps at Bronkies).First ascent: 2007 Ken Trash.
 
|-
 
|-
|Of Mice and Men (2 pitch)||22 ***||.||.||.
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|Bruce||22 ||.||27m||Use a 60m rope for this one! Facy start, easy but fun finish.
 
|-
 
|-
|New Year's Revolution||23 ***||9D||.||Finish on the same chains as Of Mice and Men. For sure a full grade harder than OMAM. BEWARE!! THE FOOT GRIP AT THE BOTTOM HAS BEEN BROKEN OFF WHICH MAKES CLIPPING THE SECOND BOLT RATHER DIFFICULT. OPENING PARTY ARE RE-LOOKING AT THE BOLTS AND WILL RECTIFY SHORTLY.  
+
|Rule Number One||22 ***||.||.||Climb the blank face up to the crack line and then out left onto the arête. The start is quite technical.
 
|-
 
|-
|Fire Fly||23 ***||.||.||An extra bolt has been added to avoid a ground fall. Stiff for 23?
+
|Wasabi||23 ***||12D||.||Solid 23. Overhanging route consisting of big reaches to good holds.
 
|-
 
|-
|Keep Walking Johnny||27 ***||.||.||Upgraded on concensus, see forum.
+
|Of Mice and Men (2 pitch)||22 ***||P1 - 7B+A, P2 - 5B+A||30m||Can be climbed in one long pitch if you un-clip the first set of anchors after clipping the next bolt, so long as you clean the route in separate pitches. First ascent: 2004 S. Mallory.
 
|-
 
|-
|Black Out||27 *****||.||.||.
+
|New Year's Revolution||23 ***||9D||.||Finish on the same chains as Of Mice and Men. For sure a full grade harder than OMAM. Due to broken foot grip a chain has been added to the second bolt to make it a bit easier to clip. Please do NOT remove this chain.
 
|-
 
|-
|Blue Suede Shoes||21 ****||.||.||Classic climb!
+
|Fire Fly||24 ***||.||.||Starts just right of the large overhang, and climbs an overhanging line up the arête. First ascent: 2004 R. & G. Lowther and C. Rudolph.
 +
|-
 +
|Keep Walking Johnny||27 ***||.||.||Starts on a crimpy face up to a ledge. Follow the bolts to the right where the pump begins! Steep climbing up mostly good holds to the chains. Nice and long and pumpy! First ascent: 2005 Mark Seuring.
 +
|-
 +
|Black Out||27 *****||.||.||Awesome line! A must do! Shares a start with Keep walking Johnny. At the ledge branch off to the left. Long and sustained. Bolted By: R. Lowther. First ascent: 2004 G. Lowther.
 +
|-
 +
|Blue Suede Shoes||21 ****||.||.||Start up a vertical break.  After the ledge, move diagonally right into the corner which leads through the large roofs above. First ascent: 2004 G. Frost, A. Lloyd and C. Havenga.
 +
|-
 +
|The Silence Of The Lambs||25 ****||15D||.||A new classic. Climb the technical face up to the ledge. Some interesting moves getting to and going through the roof. Bolted By and First Ascent: 2012 David Wade.
 
|-
 
|-
 
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|Start "No bolting" line - Eagle nest
 
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|Start "No bolting" line - Eagle nest
 
|-
 
|-
! colspan="5" align="Left"|Black Eagles or Verreaux's Eagles??
+
! colspan="5" align="Left"|
 +
A no-bolting policy is in place in the area either side of the Verreaux's Eagles (a.k.a. Black Eagles) nest. Queries on the no-Bolting area can be directed to the MCSA Johannesburg Portfolio member for Bolting.
  
Quote:  
+
Eagle update from: Walter Neser (14 October 2010):
"
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"We are in the final stages of securing funding to release a black eagle chick back into the area next winter.
 +
We will also do a few repairs to the fallen nest to help encourage the return of the birds to the area, and avoid it falling again. This work will be done in the non breeding season to limit disturbance.
 +
We would appreciate any sightings of Black eagles in the area, and if at all posible, we would like to get hold of the person who reported the electrocution of the adult, as we have a relationship with eskom, and can have then do some mitigation to the structures in question, provided we have the needed details, of when where etc.
 +
Any help on these matters would be appreciated.
 +
 
 +
Walter NESER, Vulpro, http://www.vultureconservation.co.za, email: wneser at gmail dot com"
 +
 
 +
Quote from Neil Smith:
 
The disturbance levels will be a problem during the breeding season which is about April to August. The no go zone should therefore be implemented in that period. Outside of that there should be no problem. You will need to decide on the extent of the no go zone, but the general principle should be that the climbers are out of sight of the breeding birds and that noise should be kept to the minimum. It is also worthwhile telling you that it is a criminal offense to disturb the breeding of an indigenous bird.  
 
The disturbance levels will be a problem during the breeding season which is about April to August. The no go zone should therefore be implemented in that period. Outside of that there should be no problem. You will need to decide on the extent of the no go zone, but the general principle should be that the climbers are out of sight of the breeding birds and that noise should be kept to the minimum. It is also worthwhile telling you that it is a criminal offense to disturb the breeding of an indigenous bird.  
  
Line 158: Line 176:
 
Fax: 0866572891  
 
Fax: 0866572891  
 
Mobile (0) 82 859 3788"
 
Mobile (0) 82 859 3788"
 +
 +
Eagle update (May 2011):
 +
 +
Walter Neser had difficulties with the red tape and authorities and that he was not able to secure a chick for 2011 (the breeding season for black Eagles is already underway so it is too late already for 2011). He is still hopeful that a spare chick could be placed there in 2012 (it would then fledge at around Sept 2012).
 +
 +
Some stats on the Black Eagles population status in the Magaliesberg and surrounds: indications are that of the 13 odd confirmed breeding pairs of Black Eagles in the Magaliesberg and immediate surrounds that was known to breed there in 1984 (David Allan) declined to just 2 in a 2004 study (Craig Whittington-Jones)- bottom line: there are very few left. The MCSA Magaliesberg Section has, via the Richard Watmough Memorial fund, commissioned an aerial survey (i.e. micro lights) of the Magaliesberg to confirm the population status of Black Eagles in the Magaliesberg area. The results are not yet available.
 +
 
|-
 
|-
 
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|End "No bolting" line - Eagle nest
 
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|End "No bolting" line - Eagle nest
 
|-
 
|-
|Paranoia||23 ***||9D ||.||Upgraded from 22
+
|Paranoia||23 ***||9D ||.||Upgraded from 22. First ascent: 2007 Ian MacMaster.
 
|-
 
|-
|Devil's Concubine||22 ****||13D||.||Use first bolt of Devil's Disciple then go straight up and finish on last few bolts of Devil's Disciple
+
|Devil's Concubine||22 ****||13D||.||Use first bolt of Devil's Disciple then go straight up and finish on last few bolts of Devil's Disciple. First ascent: 2007 Ken Trash.
 
|-
 
|-
|Devil's Disciple||21 ***||13D||.||.  
+
|Devil's Disciple||21 ***||13D||.||First ascent: 2007 Ken Trash.  
 
|-
 
|-
|Hello "Clarice"||22 *****||11D ||.||.
+
|Hello "Clarice"||22 *****||11D ||.||Long and sustained. First ascent:2007 Ken Trash.
 
|-
 
|-
|Stone Dogs||21 **||11D||.||Intense start, eases up after that.
+
|Stone Dogs||21 **||11D||.||Intense start, eases up after that.First ascent: 2007 Ian MacMaster.
 
|-
 
|-
|The Dark Half||22 ***||4D ||.|| upgraded from 20
+
|The Dark Half||22 ***||6D ||.||Short, but sure to get you pumped! Climbs an overhanging crack/corner. Bring your trad instincts for this one.First ascent: 2007 Ian MacMaster.
 
|-
 
|-
|Insomnia||24 ***||7D ||.||Try not to climb "Lamb to the Slaughter" but rather stay on the right of "Lamb to the Slaughter".
+
|Insomnia||24 ***||7D ||.||Try not to climb "Lamb to the Slaughter" but rather stay on the right of "Lamb to the Slaughter". First ascent: 2007 Ian MacMaster.
 
|-
 
|-
|Lamb to the Slaughter||20 ***||9D ||.||.
+
|Lamb to the Slaughter||20 ***||11D ||.||Layback, stem and crank through the steep start.  Easy climbing then takes you to within a few meters of the top.  You should climb straight up the final face, but the crack to the right is awfully tempting. First ascent: 2007 Ian MacMaster.
 
|-
 
|-
|Hannibal Lecter||23 ***||8D ||.||Top chains moved to avoid rope damage.
+
|Hannibal Lecter||23 ***||10D ||.||Starts with some on-balance face climbing. Hard to spot the holds but not too bad once you have the sequence.First ascent:2007 Ken Trash.
 
|-
 
|-
|Memoirs of a Belay Bunny||23 ***||.||.||.
+
|Memoirs of a Belay Bunny||22 ****||.||.||Cool route. Pull through the initial roof to reach thin moves up the face (crux).  Above the ledge, continue more easily up the face and through the overhangs above.First ascent: 2004 S. Mallory.
 
|-
 
|-
|If Women Were Gods||20 ****||.||.||Cool!
+
|If Women Were Gods||20 ****||14D||.||A Bronkies classic! Long and sustained! Start up a thin face below the overlap.  Turn overlap on the right and head up to the ledge.  Steep moves lead up the face to a rest before the break through the overhangs above.  These overhangs will normally see some impressive ‘styling’ over a weekend. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
 
|-
 
|-
|Urban Raptors||24 ***||.||.||.
+
|Urban Raptors||24 ***||13D||.||First ascent: 2004 G. Frost and C. Havenga.
 
|-
 
|-
|Grim Reaper||20 ***||8D ||.||Top anchors are in an indent and therefore not visible from below. Upgraded from 19
+
|Grim Reaper||20 ***||8D ||.||Top anchors are in an indent and therefore not visible from below. First ascent: 2007 Ken Trash.
 
|-
 
|-
|Rock Flower||16 **||10D||.||Grade adjusted from 17.
+
|Rock Flower||16 **||10D||.||Grade adjusted from 17.First ascent:2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
 
|-
 
|-
|Squeaker||16 ***||.||.||Grade updated. Can be 17 if you climb the face on the left of the corner below the chains.
+
|Squeaker||16 ***||.||.||Grade updated. Can be 17 if you climb the face on the left of the corner below the chains.First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
 
|-
 
|-
|P.M.S.||20 ***||.||.||Unconventional climb, with interesting roof moves.
+
|P.M.S.||20 ***||.||.||Unconventional climb, with interesting roof moves.First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
 
|-
 
|-
|Devil's Advocate||26 ***||.||.||.
+
|Devil's Advocate||26 ***||.||.||. Very powerfull and bouldery crux.First ascent:Jan 2009 Ken Thrash
 
|-
 
|-
 
|Devil's Advocate Direct(open project)||Takes the direct start of devil's advocate keeping just left of the bolts.Should be fairly hard.||.||.||.FA:Put your name here!
 
|Devil's Advocate Direct(open project)||Takes the direct start of devil's advocate keeping just left of the bolts.Should be fairly hard.||.||.||.FA:Put your name here!
 
|-
 
|-
|Ex Girlfriend's Crack||19 ***||.||.||For the trad kings and queens.
+
|Ex Girlfriend's Crack||19 ***||.||.||For the trad kings and queens. This route is sure to test your technique!First ascent:2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
 +
|-
 +
|Angry Dragon||21||.||.||First ascent: Hector Pringle and Alan Grant
 +
|-
 +
|The Bat||24***||11D||.||Very steep! Big moves to good holds. Lots of fun! Bolted By Daryll Margetts and David Wade. First Ascent: 2012 David Wade.
 
|-
 
|-
|Hector's Project|| ||.||.||
+
|The Joker||25***||10D||.||The steepest line at this section of the crag! Starts on some underclings. Some big moves on mostly good holds leads up to the white open-book/crack, which is the crux. A few powerful moves see you up to a ledge where you can rest before the last few thinner moves up to the chains. Lots of fun and quite sustained. Bolted By and First Ascent: 2013 David Wade.
 
|-
 
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|Fruital Brute||20 ||.||.||Grovelly start, long run out to third bolt, potential for grounder.
 
|Fruital Brute||20 ||.||.||Grovelly start, long run out to third bolt, potential for grounder.
  
 
|}
 
|}

Revision as of 19:40, 20 June 2013

Bronkies rightside.JPG A view of the right side of Bronkies crag from across the river.

Getting there

From JHB:

  • Either take the N1 north and then the N4 east (Witbank). Take the Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R25). Turn right to go south towards the R25. At the T-junction turn left onto the R25 towards Bronkhorstspruit. Then shortly thereafter, at the R42 junction to Delmas, turn right. After 3,8km at the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the right (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry - this is +- 500m further than where it used to be in the past). Turn right onto the dirt road. Due to the road works there are more than one parking area in use.
  • Or take the N12 east (Witbank). Turn off at the Delmas, Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R42). Turn left and continue on for about 25Km passing the Bronkhorstspruit dam on the left. Before the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the left (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry - this is +- 500m before the old turnoff). Turn left onto the dirt road. Due to the road works there are more than one parking area in use.

(Original directions courtesy of climb za)

Access rules and arrangements

The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. The Mountain Club of South Africa has come to an agreement for access to this area for its members. Any individual making use of this access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below. Contact the Magaliesberg (Pretoria) or Johannesburg sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa in case of any query or doubt.

Entrance fees are as follows:

  • R20 for adults
  • R10 for school going children above 12 years old
  • R5 for children 12 years of age and below

Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance. Someone will come out with the visitors book, otherwise the book can be found at the main house.

Please note:

  • Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and / or the Mountain Club of South Africa take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
  • You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:

  • Visitors must sign the access book and pay the entrance fee before entering (the access book has the MCSA logo on the cover)
  • Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the upper or lower parking areas
  • Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
  • Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
  • No fishing is allowed – climbing only (you may lunch picnic at the river though)
  • NO FIRES are allowed
  • Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site (no bolting area details below)
  • NO OVERNIGHT CAMPING - Climbers are only permitted during daylight hours
  • Carry out all waste. This is a high use area, treat peels etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
  • Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS
  • Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from the river, paths and climbing routes. Burry / carefully burn toilet paper
  • Respect other visitors
  • Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
  • No guns allowed
  • In case of any accident / emergency call MCSA Mountain Search and Rescue on 074 125 1385 or alternatively 074 163 3952
  • Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above

Route Info

Bronkies route names and gradings below, listed in order from right to left as you face the crag. Might be one or 2 other routes as well.

Grades upgraded/downgraded according to the crag update in SA Mountain Sport, Issue No 27, Dec-Feb 2009

Route Name Grade Bolts Height Notes
Tickled Pink 12 *** . . Start around the corner to RANGER’s DELIGHT. Move left onto this route after the second bolt.
Ranger's Delight 14 ** . . Start left of the arête in the scoop. Intense start followed by easy climbing to the chains. First ascent: 2002 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
Fragile Ego 17 *** 5D,A . Tricky move past the second bolt. Aim for the big black block/roof above. First ascent: 2003 D. Margetts and G. Frost.
Straight and Narrow 21 ** 5D,A . To get this grade, stick to a line about 30cm left/right of the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Alternatively, move right into the corner at about grade 16. This route is bolted with U-Bolts. First ascent: 2003 D. Margetts and N. Margetts.
Gert's Project . . . .
Pom-Pom Dominatrix 20 6D,A Takes the open book just right of No More Freeloaders and continues over the bulge at the top on to a small slab. It is possible to duck left at the top into a jam crack to avoid the crux (Pom-Pom option,17). 2013-06-01, Tony Seebregts, Peter Speed, Jaco Smuts.
No More Freeloaders 15 *** 7D,A . Starts up some steep jug hauling before moving diagonally left up a break towards the chains. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
Pumpkin Time 18 4D,A . Bolts sponsored by the MCSA JHB/MAG Section. Tony Seebregts,Peter Speed,Darrel Margetts.
Modern Warfare 21* . . Very short and bouldery. Try stay strate in line with the bolts. Bolted by Darrel Margetts.
Fully 12 ** . . First ascent:2003 D. Margetts and G. Frost.
Kief 11 ** 7D,A . Beware of two large loose chockstone type rocks near the 4th bolt!!!! First ascent:2003 D. Margetts and G. Frost.
Pumba's Delight 12 * . . Upgraded from 8 (be fair to the new guys)
Maggies Nose 14 * . . Upgraded from 7 (be fair to the new guys) - this route is not suitable for top roping due to excessive drag
When I was young I had this dilemma 20 *** 7D,A . Formerly known as as 'Derek's Dilemma' - Dilemma indeed, but fun once you work it out. Beware of loose flakey rock on right hand side between bolts 5 & 6.First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
Austin's Mojo 15 *** 7D,A . Climbs the left facing corner with 1m roof high up. Not as hard as it looks. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
Mini Me 17 *** . . Some fun moves near the top as the route breaks left through the roof. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
Rastus 18 * . . .One move wonder through the roof. First ascent: 2003 D. Margetts and D. Taylor.
Man's Best Friend 15 ** . . Trad.
The Fallen Boot 15 **** . . Climbs the right hand side of the scoop, following a crack system all the way to the top of the crag. Cool line with some nice exposure at the top. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
Gunning for Crows 16 *** . . Starts up the left hand side of a shallow scoop. Delicate climbing past the second bolt takes you through a small overlap and onto a short, blank face. Climb this, pull the overlap above and continue up the corner system above to reach the top of the crag. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
George's Bush 20 *** 9D,A 23m Cool start, chains been lowered to better position to avoid rope damage.
Venus Fly Trap 17*** 9D . New route, FA??BB??
Kate's Moss 17 *** 6D,A . Climb a short corner system. There is some green rock just right of this climb. Easy if you have good footwork, really hard if you don’t! First ascent: 2004 Gunther Bargon.
Tom's Cruise 17** 8D . FA/BB Guenther Bargon.
Joint Venture 22 *** 11D . Climb diagonally left on the thin face past the obvious slope.. From the ledge, climb straight up through the roof above at an undercling/layback break. The final overhang is easier if taken to the left.
Yellow Submarine 24 *** . 20m Powerful start! Climb the overhanging groove with crux getting into the corner above. Easy rock leads to roof crack with another hard move. Climb easily to top. First ascent: Andrew Porter.
After Burn 26 **** . . Hard start. Eases up after 2nd bolt. First ascent: 2004 R. & G. Lowther and C. Rudolph.
Once there were warriors AKA You Snooze, You Lose 25 **** . . Cool route. Sustained line, definitely worth getting on. BB: R. Magg. First ascent: S. Bretherick.
Rat Kid 25 **** . . Cool route. Technical, facey start followed by an easy but pumpy finish.First ascent: Gary Lowther.
Black Pearl 27 *** . . Starts with some technical face climbing up to a big roof where the fun begins! Bolted by Andreas Kiefer. First Ascent: 2012 David Wade.
Hairy Maclary (from Donaldson's Dairy) 20 *** . 18m Fun and unconventional route. Interesting finish. First ascent: Gunther Bargon.
Mostly Harmless 21 *** . 25m Climb the (often wet) corner system leading up to the roof. The crux is to break through this to the chains. First ascent: Roland Magg.
Elton's John 21 **** 13D 20m Starts just right of MOSTLY HARMLESS. Long and sustained. First ascent: Roland Magg.
Blue Boots 14 ** . 15m Starts 2m left of the large recess. Moves left of the bulge above. First ascent: 2007 B. Frost.
Wild Apricot 15 *** . . Interesting start, eases up after 2nd bolt. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
Naked Orange 21 *** . . A very thin start followed by some easier moves above the ledge. Tricky move to reach the chains.First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
Green Machine 18 *** . . Very popular and long climb. Mostly good holds. Crux just before the chains.First ascent: 2003 D. Margetts and G. Frost.
Footloose 25 ** 5D . For the boulderers! Short and powerfull! First ascent: 2005 Mark Seuring.
The Shining 25 ** 6D . Big move to a pinch, followed by some super small crimps. (Possibly the smallest crimps at Bronkies).First ascent: 2007 Ken Trash.
Bruce 22 . 27m Use a 60m rope for this one! Facy start, easy but fun finish.
Rule Number One 22 *** . . Climb the blank face up to the crack line and then out left onto the arête. The start is quite technical.
Wasabi 23 *** 12D . Solid 23. Overhanging route consisting of big reaches to good holds.
Of Mice and Men (2 pitch) 22 *** P1 - 7B+A, P2 - 5B+A 30m Can be climbed in one long pitch if you un-clip the first set of anchors after clipping the next bolt, so long as you clean the route in separate pitches. First ascent: 2004 S. Mallory.
New Year's Revolution 23 *** 9D . Finish on the same chains as Of Mice and Men. For sure a full grade harder than OMAM. Due to broken foot grip a chain has been added to the second bolt to make it a bit easier to clip. Please do NOT remove this chain.
Fire Fly 24 *** . . Starts just right of the large overhang, and climbs an overhanging line up the arête. First ascent: 2004 R. & G. Lowther and C. Rudolph.
Keep Walking Johnny 27 *** . . Starts on a crimpy face up to a ledge. Follow the bolts to the right where the pump begins! Steep climbing up mostly good holds to the chains. Nice and long and pumpy! First ascent: 2005 Mark Seuring.
Black Out 27 ***** . . Awesome line! A must do! Shares a start with Keep walking Johnny. At the ledge branch off to the left. Long and sustained. Bolted By: R. Lowther. First ascent: 2004 G. Lowther.
Blue Suede Shoes 21 **** . . Start up a vertical break. After the ledge, move diagonally right into the corner which leads through the large roofs above. First ascent: 2004 G. Frost, A. Lloyd and C. Havenga.
The Silence Of The Lambs 25 **** 15D . A new classic. Climb the technical face up to the ledge. Some interesting moves getting to and going through the roof. Bolted By and First Ascent: 2012 David Wade.
Start "No bolting" line - Eagle nest

A no-bolting policy is in place in the area either side of the Verreaux's Eagles (a.k.a. Black Eagles) nest. Queries on the no-Bolting area can be directed to the MCSA Johannesburg Portfolio member for Bolting.

Eagle update from: Walter Neser (14 October 2010): "We are in the final stages of securing funding to release a black eagle chick back into the area next winter. We will also do a few repairs to the fallen nest to help encourage the return of the birds to the area, and avoid it falling again. This work will be done in the non breeding season to limit disturbance. We would appreciate any sightings of Black eagles in the area, and if at all posible, we would like to get hold of the person who reported the electrocution of the adult, as we have a relationship with eskom, and can have then do some mitigation to the structures in question, provided we have the needed details, of when where etc. Any help on these matters would be appreciated.

Walter NESER, Vulpro, http://www.vultureconservation.co.za, email: wneser at gmail dot com"

Quote from Neil Smith: The disturbance levels will be a problem during the breeding season which is about April to August. The no go zone should therefore be implemented in that period. Outside of that there should be no problem. You will need to decide on the extent of the no go zone, but the general principle should be that the climbers are out of sight of the breeding birds and that noise should be kept to the minimum. It is also worthwhile telling you that it is a criminal offense to disturb the breeding of an indigenous bird.

I hope that this is of some assistance. Regards, Neil Smith Manager Conservation Division Birdlife South Africa Tel: (0) 11 789 1122 Fax: 0866572891 Mobile (0) 82 859 3788"

Eagle update (May 2011):

Walter Neser had difficulties with the red tape and authorities and that he was not able to secure a chick for 2011 (the breeding season for black Eagles is already underway so it is too late already for 2011). He is still hopeful that a spare chick could be placed there in 2012 (it would then fledge at around Sept 2012).

Some stats on the Black Eagles population status in the Magaliesberg and surrounds: indications are that of the 13 odd confirmed breeding pairs of Black Eagles in the Magaliesberg and immediate surrounds that was known to breed there in 1984 (David Allan) declined to just 2 in a 2004 study (Craig Whittington-Jones)- bottom line: there are very few left. The MCSA Magaliesberg Section has, via the Richard Watmough Memorial fund, commissioned an aerial survey (i.e. micro lights) of the Magaliesberg to confirm the population status of Black Eagles in the Magaliesberg area. The results are not yet available.

End "No bolting" line - Eagle nest
Paranoia 23 *** 9D . Upgraded from 22. First ascent: 2007 Ian MacMaster.
Devil's Concubine 22 **** 13D . Use first bolt of Devil's Disciple then go straight up and finish on last few bolts of Devil's Disciple. First ascent: 2007 Ken Trash.
Devil's Disciple 21 *** 13D . First ascent: 2007 Ken Trash.
Hello "Clarice" 22 ***** 11D . Long and sustained. First ascent:2007 Ken Trash.
Stone Dogs 21 ** 11D . Intense start, eases up after that.First ascent: 2007 Ian MacMaster.
The Dark Half 22 *** 6D . Short, but sure to get you pumped! Climbs an overhanging crack/corner. Bring your trad instincts for this one.First ascent: 2007 Ian MacMaster.
Insomnia 24 *** 7D . Try not to climb "Lamb to the Slaughter" but rather stay on the right of "Lamb to the Slaughter". First ascent: 2007 Ian MacMaster.
Lamb to the Slaughter 20 *** 11D . Layback, stem and crank through the steep start. Easy climbing then takes you to within a few meters of the top. You should climb straight up the final face, but the crack to the right is awfully tempting. First ascent: 2007 Ian MacMaster.
Hannibal Lecter 23 *** 10D . Starts with some on-balance face climbing. Hard to spot the holds but not too bad once you have the sequence.First ascent:2007 Ken Trash.
Memoirs of a Belay Bunny 22 **** . . Cool route. Pull through the initial roof to reach thin moves up the face (crux). Above the ledge, continue more easily up the face and through the overhangs above.First ascent: 2004 S. Mallory.
If Women Were Gods 20 **** 14D . A Bronkies classic! Long and sustained! Start up a thin face below the overlap. Turn overlap on the right and head up to the ledge. Steep moves lead up the face to a rest before the break through the overhangs above. These overhangs will normally see some impressive ‘styling’ over a weekend. First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
Urban Raptors 24 *** 13D . First ascent: 2004 G. Frost and C. Havenga.
Grim Reaper 20 *** 8D . Top anchors are in an indent and therefore not visible from below. First ascent: 2007 Ken Trash.
Rock Flower 16 ** 10D . Grade adjusted from 17.First ascent:2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
Squeaker 16 *** . . Grade updated. Can be 17 if you climb the face on the left of the corner below the chains.First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
P.M.S. 20 *** . . Unconventional climb, with interesting roof moves.First ascent: 2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
Devil's Advocate 26 *** . . . Very powerfull and bouldery crux.First ascent:Jan 2009 Ken Thrash
Devil's Advocate Direct(open project) Takes the direct start of devil's advocate keeping just left of the bolts.Should be fairly hard. . . .FA:Put your name here!
Ex Girlfriend's Crack 19 *** . . For the trad kings and queens. This route is sure to test your technique!First ascent:2003 G. Frost and D. Margetts.
Angry Dragon 21 . . First ascent: Hector Pringle and Alan Grant
The Bat 24*** 11D . Very steep! Big moves to good holds. Lots of fun! Bolted By Daryll Margetts and David Wade. First Ascent: 2012 David Wade.
The Joker 25*** 10D . The steepest line at this section of the crag! Starts on some underclings. Some big moves on mostly good holds leads up to the white open-book/crack, which is the crux. A few powerful moves see you up to a ledge where you can rest before the last few thinner moves up to the chains. Lots of fun and quite sustained. Bolted By and First Ascent: 2013 David Wade.
Fruital Brute 20 . . Grovelly start, long run out to third bolt, potential for grounder.
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