Canasta Buttress

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Alt Oorlogs Kloof
Canasta Buttress
Alt Oorlogs Kloof
The homemade hangers which have been replaced

The Canasta buttress is situated about 150 meters up the hill from Wildcard Buttress. The routes are short and powerful, between four to six bolts long. On the whole the routes and rock are of good quality and have old school gradings, so be warned.
Routes are described from left to right.

  • 1 Golden Sickle 27 (7b+) [4B] FA: Guy Holwill 1991.
  • 2 Project [5B] FA: Steve Bradshaw 2013.
  • 3 Maverick 25 (7a+) [6B] FA: Jeremy Samson 1989. Opened on preplaced nuts and later bolted by Guy Holwill in 1991.
  • 4 Collin Mozart the Demented Puppet 24 (7a) [5B] FA: Guy Holwill 1991. Opened on trad gear and two bolts.
  • 5 Canasta 27 (7b+) [5B] FA: Jeremy Colenso 1989 Opened on trad gear and one bolt.

These routes were bolted in the early days of sport climbing so hand drilled drop-in bolts and homemade aluminium hangers were used. Needless to say these routes were no longer safe.

In December of 2012 Clinton Martinengo rebolted all the routes and also completely bolted both Colin Mozart and Canasta, converting them into fully equipped sport routes.
Guy Holwill sponsored all the bolts, hangers, anchors and drill bits.

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