Difference between revisions of "Cederberg Kloof (trad)"
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= Route Guide =
= Route Guide =
= New Routes =
= New Routes =
Latest revision as of 21:55, 20 January 2014
Over 100 natural climbs exist here, mostly multi-pitch natural lines. Routes of close to 100m high can be found at the junction of the kloof with Tonquani. The grades vary from 5 to 30 with the bulk of the routes in the 17-20 range.
A good stream flows down the whole kloof which is quite long, like all other kloofs it is mostly shaded by forests. Climbing is good all year round. Heavy rains can make the kloof dangerous.
Apperture 19 **** [N] Downstream from Tigatrix there is a large arch on the true left. Hangdog climbs the centre of the left pillar of the arch. Sidewalk climbs the inside (upstream) corner of the right pillar, then rails right. This route takes the front of the right hand pillar, then the shallow open book and crack on the left arête of the right hand pillar. Start from the large flat-topped boulder just above the nice swimming pool. This is directly below Hangdog. Scramble up to a grassy ledge, scramble/traverse right to a corner and scramble/climb up to a good platform below the right hand pillar. It might be a good idea to use a rope for this scramble.
1. 19, 30m Climb the face on the front of the pillar to below the big roof. Rail left to the arête and pull around the overhang to get into the base of the shallow open book. Step right to a foot ledge and climb the thin crack until able to step back left into the shallow open book. Climb to the rail and rail right to the arête (shared with Sidewalk). Step right onto the front of the pillar and climb jugs to the top.
- 1. Small cams and wires are useful.
- 2. The route was cleaned of loose rock before being led.
- FA: Hector Pringle, Rushad Nanavatty November 2008.
Life after Enlightenment 27 *** [N] Just right of "Strange days", this is an extention to Shaun Harris' boulder problem "Green Beetle" (7A+), found just left of the right-facing, black-streaked dihedral at the old MCSA meet spot. The line is very intimidating, as the gear placements are few and far between, with a possible deck fall if you miss the rail after the redpoint crux.
1. 27, 15m Climb "Green Beetle", and then continue straight up. The route is naturally divided into three sections, followed by a top-out scramble. The middle section is the redpoint crux, with a very reachy move to a good rail (between the all three sections are good rails - the only places on the route to get in gear). Luckily the gear between section one and two is bomber, but the problem here is that your are well above your gear (small cam and a nut) when you go for the second rail, and the first gear rail is only 3.5m above deck. The second half of the route is super easy and also well protected. sling the tree before the run-out scramble and finish the route.
Notes: 1. Take extreme care if you place on lead, as decking is a serious possibility with a bad belay. 2. The route was top-roped before being led. 3. Gear was placed on lead, except one piece, to protect the second section, to prevent the possible deck mentioned. FA: Heinrich Kahl, 28 March 2009.
Black Karma 25 *** [N]
1. 25, 15m Just right of "Life after Enlightenment" there is a right-facing, black-streaked dihedral, with a roof. The route goes straight up the dihedral and through the roof, onto a ledge. From this ledge, climb "Scotman's Safari" (9) to top out.
Notes: 1. Gear was placed on lead. FA. Heinrich Kahl, 4 October, 2008.