Difference between revisions of "Chosspile"

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(The Lord of the Rings)
(The Lord of the Rings)
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|rebolted Feb 2013
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|rebolted Feb 2013
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| <Shadowfax open project>
| Shadowfax  
|RBB. Andrew Pedley & Colin Crabtree.
|FA. Andrew Pedley. March 2013.
|Pieter Martin had the vision.
|Originally bolted by P. Martin. Rebolted by AP in 2009

Revision as of 14:36, 15 March 2013



Please adhere to under mentioned access arrangements religiously. The Chosspile was closed due to a spate of muggings and later re-opened following negotiations with the landowners and huge effort from the climbing community led by Neil Margetts and friends.

Some of the history:

Updated October 2012:

Mt Amanzi do not own the land, it is owned by Rissk Estates who agreed to continue to provide acccess to climbers IF the land is rented and the access is controlled. A fence was put up around the land and the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) - spear-headed by Neil Margetts - negotiated a solution whereby Mt Amanzi rent the property from Rissik and control access. There are are some benefits to them in that they do not now have a mass of partyers and crime accross the river from the resort and the residents of the resort can hike up the Chospile mountain. This highlights an important point; Mt Amanzi are not renting the property solely so we can climb, we are secondary. Even if there were 300 climbers a month they are making a loss. For this reason, we do not have too much leverage in climber access discussions, if we are more trouble than we are worth they can close it to us. This is one of the reasons they are insisting that everyone who enters is with an MCSA or University climbing club member as this is reassurance to them that all people entering are responsible and climb safely.

In addition, Mt Amazi agreed to this ony if we the climbers pay for the guard at the gate, an average of R500 per month. So who pays this? The MCSA, average of R500 per month. The MCSA also pay for the bolts on new climbs and any rebolting of old ones, R600 a time.

So, with this in mind, the is the access rules from 1 October 2012 until further notice, are as follows:

1. Every climber entering the property must report to the Mount Amanzi reception before climbing.

2. Entrance is R30 for MCSA members or members of a University climbing club. Cards must be shown and must have a photoo and sticker for year of membership.

3. A maximum of 2 guests are allowed with each cardholder. Entrance is R50 for the 1st and 2nd guests. Rather than grumble about this, join the MCSA or your University Club!

4. All climbers must sign the registry boook and indemnity, and if they are the card-holder, must write their club membership number.

5. Opening hours are:- Winter time – 1 May till 31 August – from 08H00 – 16H00. Summer time - 1 September till 30 April – from 08H00 – 17H00. This reflects the hours the guards are paid and their transport.

6. Officers at reception must ask for cards and check validity, it is in the interests of access that climbers remind the desk staff of this.

7. The guard at the gate must check the date and number of people indicated on the reciept, it is in the interests of access that climbers remind the guard of this.

Anyone found to be not complying with the above will be banned from the property and should the access be closed down, will not be very popular!

Sorry that ths is all so firm..but continued access depends on it.

The owners of the crag (Mr Bezuidenhout of Rissik Estates) is adamant that nobody must trespass onto the land from the dam wall side Legal action will be taken against anyone who does. Please adhere to this rule to avoid unnecessary trouble and considerably jeopardise future access and seriously piss off for the majority of the Gauteng climbing community.

Please stick to these rules to keep the access open and the crag safe.


Chosspile Route List

The Man Cave

First Cave after walking from parking.

<The Real Man Open Project>
Violent Streak 32/8b BB. Andrew Pedley. FA. Andrew Pedley. 2012.

Harry Potter

This crag is right of the Real Man Cave. Routes run from LEFT to RIGHT.

Drako 24/7a 14 Bolts RBB. Rory Lowther. Pitch 1 is 21/6b+. Pitch 2 is 21/6b+. Use 2 ropes to abseil all the way or go from chains to chains.
Bolts from the Blue 15/5b Natural Gear FA. Stephen Malloryn OR Cara Wessel. <Unless you were simul-climbing or suffer from schitzophrenia pick one>.
Harry Pothead 19/6a+ 6 Bolts FA. Rory Lowther.
Hogwarts Warted Hog 23 9 Bolts FA. Rory Lowther.
Chamber of Secrets 25/7a+ 8 Bolts BB. Rory Lowther. FA. Steve Dunnet.
Dobby 23,24/6c+,7a 8 Bolts BB. Debbie Mulder. FA. Rory Lowther.
Dodgey Glue 19/6a+
Man Thang 24/7a
The Philosophers Stone 20
Harry Goes Trading 13 Natural Gear
Moaning Murtle 23/6c+ 7 Bolts FA. Roland Magg.
Spongify 22/6c 8 Bolts FA. Rory Lowther.
Voltamor 19/6a+ 8 Bolts FA. Rory Lowther.
Diffindo 20/6b 7 Bolts FA. Rory Lowther.
Harry Catastrophe Left Hand 13/5a 7 Bolts FA. Dylan Morgan. 2004.
Harry Catastrophe Right Hand 15/5b 6 Bolts FA. Mike Grant. 2004.
Slitheren 14/5b 10 Bolts FA. Rory Lowther.
Ravens Claw 17/5c 9 Bolts FA. Ronald Magg.
Griffindore 17/5c 10 Bolts FA. Rory Lowther.
Huff 'n Puff 18/6a 9 Bolts FA. Rory Lowther.
Cramcakes and Scumbags 20/6b 6 Bolts FA. Louis Smit OR Wiliam Graham. 2004. <Do you have an alias?>

The Lord of the Rings

This crag is past the Harry Potter section following the scree path all the way too the top large cave.

Routes from the LEFT of the crag towards the RIGHT. This crag is in the shade most of the day with some areas being in the sun late afternoon. This crag is mostly overhanging.

1. Pipeweed 22/6c 8 Bolts FA. Dewald Kloppers.
2. Frodo / Exit Planet Dust 18/6a 9 Bolts BB. Rob Brinkworth & Mark Olver. FA. Rob Brinkworth OR Sarah Houghton. <Please pick one, as I'm sure you both didn't clip the chains at the same time>
3. A Shortcut to Mushrooms 21/6b+ rebolted Feb 2013
4. Voices of Saruman 23/6c+
5. Gandalf 24/7a rebolted Feb 2013
6. Mourn not overmuch 25/7a+
7. Halfling 27/7b+
8. Gollum 25/7a+ rebolted Feb 2013
9. Gollum extension <add name>
10. Big Bully 29/7c+ BB. Wesley Black. FA. Dario Zanon. 2012. Ground extension.
11. Bully for Brontosaurus 28/7C 10 Bolts FA. Peter Lazarus. Starts in cave.
12. Tyrannosaurus Rex 27/7b+ Starts in cave.
13. <Richard Lords bolt line running through cave open project.> This will go after Shadowfax has been crushed. Needs new bolts.
14. Shadowfax 33/8b+ FA. Andrew Pedley. March 2013. Originally bolted by P. Martin. Rebolted by AP in 2009
15. The Chossfather 28/7c

FA. Andrew Pedley. 2012.
16. Don't Deck 23/6c+ There was a tree, but the muggers came and chopped it down.
17. Don't Let Go ( a.k.a mount doom on a stick ) 28/7c FA. Brian Weaver. 2012. Leftward extension of Don't Deck. Take long slings.
18. Don't Deck Extension 27/7b+ Rightward extension of Don't Deck ending on Fossil Fuel.
19. Shelob 24/7a BB. Wesley Black. FA. Wesley Black. 2011.
20. Anduril Flame of the West 30,31/8a,8a+ BB. Wesley Black. FA. Joey Kinder. 2011.
21. Fossil Fuel 30/8a BB. Peter Lazarus. FA. Ralph Brucher. Just before going for the big pinch there was a drilled pocket which was never used in any of the ascents and is now filled up to avoid cheating.
22. <Ralph's Open Project> BB. Ralph Brucher.
22. <Pieter Martin's Open Project> BB. Pieter Martin.
22. <Colin Crabtree's Open Project> BB. Colin Crabtree. 2002.
23. Grimslade 27/7b+ 6 Bolts
24. Unfinished Business 23/6c+ 7 Bolts
25. Hobbitry in Arms 20/6b 6 Bolts
26. Ramble On 18/6a

The Wall of Aglarond

This wall is past Harry Potter and The Lord of the Rings, through the gulley and past some scree slope.

Routes from the LEFT of the crag towards the RIGHT.

1. Seventeen 17/5c
2. The King of the Golden Hall 17/5c 8 Bolts FA. Andries Smit OR Derek Pienaar. 2003.
3. Mr Gamgee 20/6b 9 Bolts FA. Andries Smit OR Derek Pienaar. 2003.
4. Tarrawankie 19/6a+ 9 Bolts FA. Andries Smit OR Derek Pienaar. 2002.
5. Legolas 22/6c 14 Bolts FA. Andries Smit OR Derek Pienaar. 2002.
6. Lady of Lorien 22/6c 11 Bolts
7. Aragorn 21 14 Bolts
8. <unknow name> 22,23/6c,6c+ <Add FA>
9. Sauron 18/6a
10. Blue Flowers 15/5b 6 Bolts FA. Rob Brinkworth.