Cogmans Buttress

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=== Cogmans Buttress ===
 
=== Cogmans Buttress ===
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[[File:Cogmans_buttress_paths.jpg|400px|right]]'''Online Topo for Cogmans Buttress'''
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http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/montagu/cogmans-kloof/cogmans-buttress/
  
 
=== Getting There ===
 
=== Getting There ===
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Drive past the Cogmans Buttress parking spot until you are below the Eagles Folly Buttress (+/- another 600 meters on).  Park and find your way into the river bed.  Rock hop your way up and when the river bed starts getting steep, move out right and zigzag your way up on the right.  At the top (you can see into Keur Kloof from here) move across left to the bottom of the ridge.  
 
Drive past the Cogmans Buttress parking spot until you are below the Eagles Folly Buttress (+/- another 600 meters on).  Park and find your way into the river bed.  Rock hop your way up and when the river bed starts getting steep, move out right and zigzag your way up on the right.  At the top (you can see into Keur Kloof from here) move across left to the bottom of the ridge.  
  
[[File:Cogmans_buttress_paths.jpg]]
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==Routes==
 
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*Another Day In Paradise 22 A0 19
''' Another Day In Paradise''' ==
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*Magical Mystery Tour 18
To the left of the Rave.
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*The Rave 22
* P1. 4a/10 5 Bolts 23mm
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*Tocando El Vacio 27
* P2. 6b+/22 or 19 A0 13 Bolts 25m
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*Low Battery 23
* P3. 5c/18 7 Bolts 20m
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*Burnt by the Sun 23
* P4. 5b/17 9 Bolts 30m
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* P5. 3c/12 5 Bolts 20m
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* P6. 5c/18 11 Bolts 25m
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* P7. 5b/17 9 Bolts 20m
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Bolts sponsored by Axel Wegmann, Swiss visitor and friend.
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Ab down route. 60m rope !!! Beware of loose flake above bolt 6 on last pitch !!!
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The Raves rap line.
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'''Magical Mystery Tour''' ***
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* P1. 4a/10 4Bolts 15m shares first 3 bolts with paradise.
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* P2. 5c/18 9 Bolts 20m
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* P3. 5b/17 9 Bolts 30m
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* P4. 5c/18 11 Bolts 30m
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Ab down route. 60m rope !!! Link up to second stance on Paradise after 4th bolt on pitch 3. *** Bolts sponsored by De Bos Guest Farm
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'''The Rave'''
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* (6 Pitches - highest grade 6c/22)
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'''TOCANDO EL VACIO'''
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50m right of "The Rave"
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* P1. 24/6c+ 35m
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* P2. 27/7b+ 35m
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* P3. 22/6b+ 35m
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* P4. 27/7b+ 30m
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* Decent: 3xAbseils. 30m; 35m; 60m!!!
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Bolted from ground up by Albert Segura, Pilar Rossimyol, Antonio Bayoma - 05.08.03
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'''LOW BATTERY'''
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Right of "Tocando el Vacio"
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* P1. 16/5b
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* P2. 18/6a
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* P3. 23/6c
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* P4. 23/6c
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* Decent: 2xAbseils. P4-P1 50m; P1- ground
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Bolted from ground up, you might need a set of nuts on first pitch.By Albert Segura, Pilar Rossimyol, Catherine Mader,Antonio Bayoma - 7/8.07. 03
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'''Burnt by the Sun'''
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* P1: 17 28m (10B,C) **
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* P2: 19 26m (10B,C)
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* P3: 21/22 28m (9B,C)
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* P4: 22/23 30m (14B,C)
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M. Roberts & P. McCann. 2003.
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Click [http://www.debos.co.za/routes3.html here for the Cogmans Buttress topo] on Debos.co.za
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[[Category:Montagu]]

Latest revision as of 16:28, 21 January 2014

Cogmans Buttress

Cogmans buttress paths.jpg
Online Topo for Cogmans Buttress

http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/montagu/cogmans-kloof/cogmans-buttress/

Getting There

Drive out of Montagu, go around the first bend about 250 meters on your right there is a wire gate. Park here (do not obstruct the entrance). The path starts across the road and is marked with a cairn.
Follow the path up for +/-30 meters to another path and turn right. Follow the path but DO NOT turn up left where the 'poles and wire' are obstructing the path - carry on walking across. The path follows up left later on. There area cairns marking the path.

Eagles Folly area: Drive past the Cogmans Buttress parking spot until you are below the Eagles Folly Buttress (+/- another 600 meters on). Park and find your way into the river bed. Rock hop your way up and when the river bed starts getting steep, move out right and zigzag your way up on the right. At the top (you can see into Keur Kloof from here) move across left to the bottom of the ridge.

Routes

  • Another Day In Paradise 22 A0 19
  • Magical Mystery Tour 18
  • The Rave 22
  • Tocando El Vacio 27
  • Low Battery 23
  • Burnt by the Sun 23
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